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UH...two reasons.. 1) I read the Haynes manual which says that up to .006" is okay. 2) *Just* one cylinder was near that. 3) Stupid - Choose whichever one you like best "joe blxfstz" 37652... MORE
Piston slap, #4 cylinder only. Cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are worn almost none, but #4 measured .006 oversize. I rebuilt it with std size pistons, assuming that they were worn more than the bores, and were the source of the tonk - tonk piston slap noise. Didn't work. It's still there. Compression is good, 155-160 psi. Doesn't smoke or use any oil. Goes away when fully warmed up, but... Questions - 1) Is this anything to lose sleep over? 2) Any "tricks" to lessen the noise?...uh, rebore and new pistons doesn't qualify as a "trick". "joe blxfstz" 37648... MORE
It is "written" upon the crank, Paul. However, I do not recall exactly where or exactly how it is stated. Therefore (and thus!), I must trust to others on the list more knowledgeable in this speci fic respect. I, along with you, await with ears open....mouth closed! However, the tuftriding ("rough" finish) process on the EN16 is self-eviden t. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37644... MORE
Paul.... "Thin flange" refers to the thickness of the actual wall of the block, this thickness being most apparent in the block's lower "flange" which borders the oil sump. As far as I know, the company went to thicker wall ("thick flange") 1275's by '68. For stock bores, the thin-flange was not a weak engine. I tested a Judson blower on a stock bore thin-flange '67 for many, many runs at 4-6psi to 6,000rpm and while we did not retain the blower, there wa s no apparent engine damage as the motor continued to run just fine for man... MORE
awww, you mean I won't be able to start the engine running backwards?! (It's fun to do this on someone else's two stroke twin bike - the engine can run backwards if you swap the plug leads) David "David Jacobs" 37640... MORE
There doesn't seem any rhyme or reason. Mine is 12CD-DA-H15223. It's a thick flange, EN40B crank, AEG521 rods. Luck of the draw, I guess. "joe blxfstz" 37630... MORE
Don't know whether there are any records. The engine in my car, according to serial #, is early '68 and has the EN40 crank and Cooper S rods. I'm sure it came from the factory that way. "joe blxfstz" 37623... MORE
Hi again David, I did find an EN40B crank in this engine: 12CC Da-H 12526. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37629... MORE
good answers so far follow the link for where to find engine # http://www.mgcars.org.uk/midgetspriteclub/sprite/spriteident.htm Rgds Alan EJ "Alan" 37618... MORE
Andy.... Brad says you've got a '67 and he oughta know. The '67 had the "early" thin-flange 1275. And most likely it is the standar d high compression (this would be the "H" in the engine #) 8.8-1 motor. The "good stuff"!! This motor was most likely equipped with the #40819 Cooper "S" spec. Lucas 23D mechanical advance only distributor and even better, most likely the rare a nd much sought after EN40 (bulletproof) steel crankshaft. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37613... MORE
Only the syncro has a short life span, the box itself will normally go on for years. The same can be said of the rib case!. One other thing, it should be filled with engine oil, not gear oil, only the later 1500 midgets have gear oil in the transmision. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37588... MORE
Mostly restored, mint interior, low miles, Brooklands Green, new tires, brakes, SS braided brake lines, clean, 1500 engine, been de- smoggedm has Weber 2 bl. side draft(DCOE) headers, clean tight tranny, new top/boot cover, NO RUST, NEVER WRECKED, wood steering wheel & MG shift knob, Clairon AM-FM cassete deck, drives great. $3900. In Arizona U.S.A.see photos section hdsteveg@yahoo. "hdsteveg" 37585... MORE
I bed to differ, the flywheen on the 948 is IIRC much deeper, and it hits the back of the bell housing with the ribcase gearbox or it did when I tried to do it (I eneded up taking the flywheel and back plate off the blown 1098) The 948 that was in my frogeye (which also has a ribcase geabox) that I repeleced with a 1275 also had a 1098 flywheel As for the later gearboxes allgedely superior blauk ring syncro, wears out just as quickly. There are only two reasons to fit the ribcase, you are fitting... MORE
What's wrong with the current gearbox? if its weak syncro you won't gain much with the later gearbox, Syncro dies just as easilly. If the car has its original box and engine and both are working, leave it alone, alterations will detract form it's value. TO fit the later gearbox you will need the flywheel and the back plate from a later engine and possibly a new spigot bush. Certanly the entire clutch (to go with the flywheel). Can't remeber why the flywheel was needed, but I did do this job on my A40 farina after blowing the 1098... MORE
Flywheels are matched to the engine, NOT to the transmissions!! Putting a ribcase on a 948 requires a thick back plate as the input shaft protrudes forward of the case more. Some will bottom out in the crankcase and there will be no neutral and soon no input shaft bearing!! Later gearboxes have superior baulk rings for synchronizing gears, the early ones have brass cones as synchronizers. They don't work very well unless you drive like great great aunt Matilda!! Then nothing is important but to get out of her way, and damn the synchros!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson"... MORE
Now cars with disc brakes on the front have a wheel cylinder with two pistons, affixed to the backing plate by means of a C-clip, and the hand brake lever is totally seperate and operates on the brake shoes not the wheel cylinder. Does this describe what you have? There are a number of manufacturers of these wheel cylinders - some use normal rubber cups, some use your Polo mint seal. There are even different versions of the Polo mint - same OD but different ID, depending on the whim of the manufacturer. The one thing they all have... MORE
Hi Phil,. The correct ones are readily available, just a tad spendy. The old ones are not usually worth rebuilding as you won't be doing anything to correct the rust and pits on the 2 steel pistons, and likely the pits in the aluminum are way deep. It also costs more to sleeve than to get new ones. Again, you'll do nothing about the 2 steel cyls when sleeved! Just buy new and get it done right. These wheel cyls are the same as on the Morris Minors. Later, Paul A Hi Phil, I believe rear cylinders were specified... MORE
G'day guys Cooler air is denser, denser air picks up more fuel and carries it intot he combustion chamber, and you get a bigger bang. So a little more power. Something you would notice at speed not on a dyno. Correctly positioned, the intake will also provide a ram air effect - a mini blower. Note: more of each, fuel and air, so it's still at the correct fuel/air ratio, not "more fuel" as in running richer. I do like your idea Robert, a little lateral thinking going on there. If you set it up correctly you might actually... MORE
Hi Phil, I believe rear cylinders were specified as 7/8" bore for all drum braked cars but went to 3/4" for cars originally fitted with discs. Are your 3/4" cylinders the later twin piston type? If they are, I think you want a GRK 2014 repair kit. If they're not, I'm stumped. David "David Jacobs" 37520... MORE
You guys are all off the map on cool air induction. What works for me is crushed ice in a glass and enough vodka to float the ice. Open the bonnet and place a Manhattan glass each of the vodka ice mixture on each carb. Wait 5 minutes, remove the glasses from the carb, close the bonnet and start the engine. Hear that? It runs great. Drink the contents of the two glasses and go back in the house. You're too drunk to drive. Rob C- Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free "... MORE
The obvious answer is a before and after test with a dyno/rolling road, but there are pitfalls here for the unwary - your car will be stationary rather than moving through the air, though a blower is usually directed at the radiator/engine bay. The bonnet will also be open rather than closed, so airflow into your cold air intake might not be the same. These changes in operating conditions can all affect the HP, though if you endeavour to keep the same conditions, you might pick up a difference due to the new intake. On the other hand, if... MORE
G'day Mark Jon is correct - that's pretty much the way they are. However, it isn't pretty much the way they WERE. First gear will be a LITTLE bit noisier when the gearbox is in good condition, but certainly not a LOT noisier. Added to the symptom of jumping out of gear (which it should NEVER do) you should budget for a greabox rebuild really soon. If you don't, the bits of metal coming off 1st gear will get tangled in the bearings and other gears, and your repair bill will be higher when you eventually get to it.... MORE
You guys keep up this kind of talk and us 1500 guys may get an attitude and throw a rod or something. Rob C-1500 running beautifully. Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37471... MORE
Started my 1959 Frogeye up this morning (1275, LCB big bore (possibly what a bore) exhaust).. I have now lost intrest in my 1975 1500... Stewart "zaphod19692000" 37466... MORE
G'day all Let's start with a definition. Those non-standard tubular pipes that bolt onto your cylinder head to let the exhaust gas out, and eventually join into one "collector" for the exhaust pipe, are called "extractors" or in some languages "headers". "Exhaust" includes these plus everything down the line, past the muffler to the chrome tip on the tail pipe. I guess we are talking here about insulating the extractors, not the entire exhaust system. We run in all our engines on a calibrated engine dyno. It lives in a 10ft x 15ft brick room with a huge fan... MORE
