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When I bought this lovely thing 10 years ago, I thot it was the right one - anyone got an Aldon Yella for a pre A+? (71 Midget 1275) This one's been fondled, but never mounted. I gather Aldon quit making them due to probs getting parts from Lucas. This lists at $300 and the pre at $280. Can we talk? The yellow's sposed to be most compatible with performance cams, but the Red is for racers. David McCartney Captain Rapture 24394... MORE


Chris, Been there, I replaced the floor pans, trunk floor inner and outer rockers, kick plates, inner and outer quarters, inner fronts etc. rebuilt the 1098, front end, brakes, steering. Took 5 years. Hope you can make your 2 1/2. Pics available Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 24384... MORE


Well I've gone and done it..the '60 is coming apart. Engine and trans are out in preparation of a complete refurb. At the very least this will include new inner and outer sills, maybe floors and possibly rear spring boxes. Paint will be redone and interior gone thru. I have a 1275 and ribcase waiting to be rebuilt and installed, along with Weber sidedraft etc. I am seeking suggestions on cams, porting and header. This will be a "quick" street car, neither a daily driver nor a "road racer." Any advice will be appreciated. At this point my proposed... MORE


Don, The boot or engine compartment is usually the giveaway. Check under the tail lights or other corner lights. Maybe it's just a fender that was repaired at some point. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24365... MORE


David J, Given that it is a "first edition" from 1977, does it cover A-series (MGMidget MKI, II, II or AHSprite MKI, II, III, IV)cars or just the 1500's? If the latter, then there would be no reason to explain the changeover I mentioned. The chaneover was made in 1972 mid year. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24349... MORE


Adam You'll find no better book on tuning/building the A Series Engine than Davi =3D=0D d Vizard's - Tuning BL's A Series Engine, it's the bible. One of the advantages of all of the sprite/midget range is that It will ta =3D=0D ke any one of the A Series engines, so a bored out 1275 would fit quite happily in =3D=0D an earlier version. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24346... MORE


Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE


I woukd tend to agree with Paul T. I've rarely opended on up that didn't have a few that were either proken or completelt frozen in the ring land. That's why I suggested the leak-down test in my earlier message. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24324... MORE


George, I have not followed this entire thread, but see you original message included. If my suggestion has already been mentioned, then never mind. The besta way to sort out the source of the problem is a leak-down test. This requires compressed are and a special set of gauges that will compare the pressure in with the pressure out. A difference of 10 percent or more indicates a problem. It will also tell you the source of the leak by listening to where the air is escaping, (valves rings, head gasket, etc.) One thing that sometimes causes your symptoms,... MORE


Actually this does sound like a seized compressor, Did you get the oil changed with the gas? , AC systems MUST have a certain amount of oil in them, and if they have been leaking gas you can put money on some of the oil having leaked out as well, if this was not replaced when the system was regassed then you can bet the compressor is now FUBAR internally. try reaching down and turning the compressor by hand (engine off car not running), it should if it's OK be easy to turn the end of the compressor, if... MORE


George... I think you have three problems: 1.The intake manifold mounted PCV system uses the vented/filtered oil filler cap to provide for incoming air. 2. The most effective crankcase scavenging consists of a feed to the PCV valve from below the pistons. 3. The "cover" to the old mechanical fuel pump fitting on the forward left side of the block just above the flange can be used as a "source" for relieving lower crankcase vapor/pressure in place of the old takeoff on the stock timing case cover which no longer exists, in consideration of your new timing cover set-up... MORE


Hello there I have a 1978 1500 UK model and was wondering what whether it was the larger wash bottle (no longer available new or used) or the wash bag that was fitted. I have photos of the car with the large wash bottle but this was an after market addition I believe as it wasn't present in the earlier photos I have. Either way the bottle is no longer with the car and am looking to replace it but maintain authenticity if possible. In the Victoria British catalogue it say that wash bag (similar to the MGB)that is... MORE


News article today mentions the temperature in Basra is 62C - 138F. Apparently at that temperature they have to turn off the A/C on the troop carriers because the engine overheats with the extra load. Guy "Guy Weller" 24293... MORE


Simultaneous smoking exhaust and leaking can be caused by build up of crankcase pressure. The A-series doesn't have a real rear crank seal, and even a slight positive crankcase pressure will cause it to leak, maybe lots. The same for exhaust smoke. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the opening to close it off. You should feel a slight vacuum - not a lot, maybe, but enough to feel. Increase engine speed and feel that too. If you feel pressure, even slight, that's a problem. New rings and 200+ psi sounds... MORE


Don, My '72 has the same design tonneau snaps you describe. I can't comment on how standard this was, but certainly not unique to your situation. As far as stretching, I would consider finding a Black Magic brand vinyl "restorer" which will revitalize/moisterize the vinyl. Don't use ArmourAll as it actually dries it out. The Black Magic will will slippery and look shiny at first, but dried to a natural appearance once it soaks in.. I had an old convertible top that fits you description that suffered the same problem. I had success streching the vinyl, but getting it... MORE


has it actually been run-in after it was built, since you say it was sat (presumably unused)? The rings do take some time to bed in, though consumption does sound high even for running in. David "David Jacobs" 24258... MORE


My 1400cc engine which sat for a number of years after being built smokes. Between burning and leaking it goes through a quart every 200 miles or so. I've done a hot compression check and get 205, 210,210 and 210. (compression ration is 9.75:1). My thinking is that the problem is in the head, valve stem seals or guides, or with the rocker arm shaft, based on the consistent compression readings. I remember someone saying that even with good compression the problem could be bad oil control rings. Thoughts, comments, suggested diagnostic tests, would be appreciated. Thanks "george07876" 24254... MORE


wow.... 210? seems high for only 9.75:1 regardless.... Did you properly break in the engine before it sat all that time? Rings could simply not be seated yet.... and with that kind of compression, yes the 'blow-by' alone could blow that much oil out very easily. Seriously.... do you have a breather recirculation system? (crank fumes returned to the intake?) If so I'll bet the backs of the intake valves are already a nasty mess of oil sludge. Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24260... MORE


Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE


Well... either carb could be run with basically the same system. I'm just talking it up a bit to learn more, bearing in mind and considering the garbage that came with my stock '74, which had the SU's of course, with all of the "closed loop" stuff. So damn long ago it is difficult for me to recall. One thing is for sure...if you pull some of this stuff off or out of the system (as in de-smogging), you have to go to a vented cap or you get fuel starvation when you truly put your foot in it... MORE


Not familiar with '77 UK cars...maybe they are the same emissions-wise as our US 1500's....not sure. I think there is supposed to be SOME pressure in the tank...shouldn't be enough to get by cap's seal, though. Maybe something as simple as a new gas cap (seal)? But there is a charcoal cannister in there under the bonnet? The fuel tank/sysem vents through this and the engine breathes inbound through this as well? The charcoal cannister also has a vent line which needs to be open... it's pretty small. And the charcoal element needs replacing every once in a while.... MORE


Been away and just got back to the list.One more word about car covers and pets.I like pets to a point, but why must they insist on pushing our buttons? Yes there are many ways and products available to protect our cars from attack but whats the use? When you dare to leave the top down as you get out to check the mail some devil tom cat slips in and skunk sprays the dash befor you can say holly cat piss#*&#@&*!! Now tell me this hasnt happeOh crap its raining againnd to you! Or as soon as you... MORE


Hello.. I have two sprigets.. The first car is a 1974 1500 (yes they do exist as I had to keep telling anyone I orderd parts for it from!)Which I bought in 1988, dorve for 6 months and then stripped, scince then I have replaced the inner and outer sills, repaired the floor and the front chassis sections and inner fornt arches.. restoration has stalled there, and the last time I actulally worked on it was 1991 IIRC! If my research is correct it is the 126th 1500 midget built and it is /was teal blue registerd JMB742N The... MORE


Hi guys: I am still in the process of repairing my 1979 midget 1500.got my new carpet kit in and since I do not have any carpet in my car, could someone recommend a site for good, clear pictures of the interior of a later midget? I want to make sure I get the carpet pieces in correctly. If you did carpet kits, what did you use for adhesive? Did you also use snaps or just the adhesive? Parts car: I just bought a parts car its an early 70's or possibly late 60's (I have no title and... MORE


G'day Jeremy When I said "fine" emery or wet+dry, I meant something like 1200 grade. The stuff you use to rub down a newly painted car before the final polish. There is no way it will leave and residue embedded in the surface. Same with wire wool. The wire works like hundreds of little scrapers. Trust me. We need to do it in around 25% of engine rebuilds, as otherwise the camshaft is too tight. A bearing scraper in experienced hands is a better tool. But if you are not careful you can leave gouges in the bearing. avagoodday... MORE