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Cap'n Bob, Some how, when you are the Capitan, in charge of the plane, and you are told that an engine has just fallen off the wing, I can't see you continuing to read a nusery book to the stewardess for the next 7 or 8 minutes before you even changed your expression or actually did something!!!!!!! Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 32988... MORE
Hi All. Well, we replaced the Master cylinder AND the slave cylinder, got the clutch bled and viola! ....the car ran like a well oiled top:) I had so much fun running around in it for 2 days...right up until I met with the local British Automotive club for a run...and it died on me in a parking lot. Damn! The fuel pump went out. We bought a new fuel pump today and I'll be up and running again in no time. The GOOD news, is that pretty soon I'll have replaced every part in the car and it... MORE
Without the proper 3.8 litre XK jaguar engine its still only worth $4K, with cars like that originality is everything. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32967... MORE
I'm rebuilding the rib case transmission on a 1275cc Midget. Looking for the British Leyland Part Number for 3rd. gear. "mgmidget1969" 32953... MORE
Lisanne, these clutches are notoriously difficult to bleed. You do need to be absolutely sure that you have really managed to get the air out of the system before simply assuming that either the master or the slave cylinder is faulty. There are a variety of tecniques which help in getting all of the air out It would be a waste of money to replace master and slave if in fact they were not faulty! Guy "Guy Weller" 32939... MORE
Non-engagement is the issue here, Mike. We were able to get some compression after we replaced the Master Cylinder, but not really enough to make the clutch work properly. It looks like we're going to try a new slave cylinder next...hopefully this will work. Ahhhh well...it looks like it's going to rain anyway:( (sigh) Lisanne:) "mckenzienewfs" 32935... MORE
Lisanne, Are you saying that the clutch will not disengage due to lack of hydraulic force/pressure or that it is permenatly disengaged. Duncan HHHhhhhh! Non-engagement is the issue here, Mike. We were able to get some compression after we replaced the Master Cylinder, but not really enough to make the clutch work properly. It looks like we're going to try a new slave cylinder next...hopefully this will work. Ahhhh well...it looks like it's going to rain anyway:( (sigh) Lisanne:) "Duncan Sinclair" 32937... MORE
Well it's official. I'm a frustrated MG owner! I've had "Chloe' for almost two months and haven't really driven her yet. First, we fixed the brakes...then I went to drive her and she wouldn't start...cleaned the carb and adjusted it...hubby drove her out to test her and the clutch went out...pulled the clutch slave cylinder and bought a kit to fix it...still had clutch issue. Bought a new master cylinder today...STILL didn't work. WAAAAAaaaaaaa!! Yep, I'm whinin'. Summer is a'wastin' and I want to drive! Any ideas, guys? (I just had major surgery and my doctor doesn't want me... MORE
TJ, Get out your BFH and give them a few smacks. They usually rust and fix themselves around the stud areas. Smack around the outside edge towards you/away from the drum. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in the "Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 32908... MORE
Jeesh...the "Toyman" is literally falling apart here! Becoming a physical wreck long before his time. ( (Too many late nights, toking and drinking combined with weird sexual "gymnastics" and general "over-activity" I suspect?:) Anyway...the torque figures in the book for the head consist of two..."early" and "late" studs. I've always had the "late" studs and have always torqued to 50lbs. with the exception of my '74 Vizardized 1340 which ran 11.0-1, so we went to 60 on 10 studs, and 30 for the front "bolt". SLIGHT seepage of oil between the head and block is really nothing new or... MORE
"We are in the process of relocating.... sporadic cell service" Ah...a "serious" matter, then. I'd go with Biff Jones idea for sure. A second distributor...all set up, spare spark plugs, spare fan belt, and a length of spare hose and ignition wire, spare fuel pump, and necessary small bag of tools. The all important flashlite of course and a portable starter/charger as well if you're really out there in the sticks. Of course... what will serve you best is a quality scheduled, preventive maintenance program (and the "right attitude" towards being "situationally aware" in terms of survival in the... MORE
FINALLY getting enough strength in my arms again to work on the car. Pulled ligament in right shoulder, and tennis elbow on left arm pretty much decimated my sex life. Um wait, that is another e group. Anyway, I think I have found the root cause of my oil problem. I put the head on, torque it down with my trusty Taiwanese click wrench to 42 pounds. They final torque at 50, so for shits and giggles, I got my $5 flea market Craftsman beam wrench. Believe it or not, my Taiwanese wrench was not torquing as tight as... MORE
Thanks for the replies, I ordered a Pertronix system and coil. I've never been able to set the dwell to my satisfaction, I've owned the car for 20 years! I always got it running reasonably well. So now with the hot street engine I believe that the ignition could and should be improved on. Cap'n Bob I agree that electronics give no warning of an impending failure but elimination of a maintenance issue is worth it since my son will be driving it mainly. The other reason is the inferior parts that are available these days. Yeah I know... MORE
I'm upgrading my early model .875" bore master cylinder to the later model with the .75" bore and I'm getting it brass sleeved by Joe at Sierra Specialty Auto too, but I have a problem. The plastic internal bits from the .75" MC came out in pieces=85 and I don't see replacements in the VB catalog. Is there an alternate source for these plastic bits, and are they specific to either the clutch or brake side=85 or are both bore assemblies the same? Any suggestions? Cheers & TIA, -Drew "Drew Griffith" 32837... MORE
Well I found a big British Car yesterday. 1961 Jaguar sedan...350 Chevy engine. Looks pretty good from the street as I drove by. They are asking $11,995.00 but are negotiable. Anybody want me to look closer at it? Robert Houston Texan in New Mexico War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a... MORE
Martyn, I use a modified system out of a 1275 Metro. Scrapyard components that cost me 5 GBP. Guy "Guy Weller" 32821... MORE
The typical function of a resistor in either the coil as in built in, special resistance wire to the coil or with one in series between the power supply and the coil is this. When the resistor is cold, it passes a lot of current so the cooil will have about full voltage at start up to produce a hot spark. As the resistor heats up, it reduces the amount of power getting through, so instead of a full 12 volts, for example, it now is passing only 9 volts or so. The coil will still produce a full... MORE
I have aquired a brand new 3 peice clutch kit with carbon bearing. I want to convert to a ball race thrust bearing, SO, does it run on the existing trilobular reaction plate fixed on the diaphragm spring? Or is there a special diaphragm spring with what I call 'curly fingers' for the bearing to run on ? Any info on the bearing? rgds Alan still working on it "Alan" 32788... MORE
I might be intrested. Can you send a photo via e-mail? or mail one? Clear title? Wrecked? Color? Interior shape? 1275 cc? Thanks, Bill French Cincinnati/Hilton Head Frenchww@... frenchww@... 32787... MORE
Yep.... You got it big guy!!!! Of course, this assumes a reasonably healthy engine pulling decent vacuum. TWO CAVEATS.... 1) If the engine's clapped out and is pullin' lousy vacuum, the pistons will never "top out", spring tension and fully open butterflies notwithstanding and thus....it follows, that.... 2) the entire induction system has got to be "air tight" as well. You don't need a midget under the hood. You need an SU carb tool kit!!! It comes with a little jet centering tool along with "rods" you place within the piston tubes which temporarily take the place of the... MORE
Rob, That helps. So let me get more clear. The spring rate (color) determines how high the piston will rise in relation to redline under load, for example if it will not reach the top under load or it reaches the top way before red line under load, it is a function of the spring/color and how fast the piston reacts (not how high it goes) is a function of the viscosity of the oil in the damper. Is that close? Now all we need is a midget to curl up in the engine bay and peer into the... MORE
Air in the line will only give you a soft or spongy petal, not a loss of brakes. Loss of brakes would be caused by a leak, either a wheel cylinder or a brake switch, which would have fluid all over, or a master cylinder, which can have fluid all over or it might leak back into the reservoir, which you wouldn't see any fluid. You say that you rebuilt the master, but don't mention the wheel cylinders. Brake fluid eats rubber parts. I would suggest rebuilding, or at least inspecting the wheel cylinders. Check for leaks, and check... MORE
Guys... Can't help but believe we are losing something in the translation, here. A faster rising of the piston (as Duncan points out) can be counterproducive to acceleration in terms of low end torque not only because of the "ramming affect" of a "smaller" venturi at the low end, but also because of the "leaning out" of the mixture on acceleration caused by "too great a rate". The thing is, the "proper weight" oil is "correct" for "rate of rise" in accordance with the maker's design of the application to begin with. The spring controls wherein the needle will... MORE
Don't get confused, Jens. The butterflies must fully open when the accelerater pedal goes fully down. This is mechanical matter. The pistons (air valves) must not reach their full upward travel prior to redline (or reasonably thereabouts). If they do, you require a stronger spring. Probably yellow is next. Aldon would know the different spring rates/colors. The weight of the oil determines the piston's rise RATE. The engine is being revved under no load circumstances. Thus, the butterflies will not require much opening in order to allow the motor to reach it's redline under this no-load condition. Cap'n. Bob... MORE
What effect was this mod supposed to have? I would have thought the hole towards the mouth of the carb would allow more air to enter the space above the piston, and reduce the amount of depression, giving less piston lift? David "David Jacobs" 32716... MORE
