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Hi, I am new, and I am a spridget-holic. Now that that is out of the way.... I am rebuilding the 1275 out of my 73 RWA and I want to upgrade the transmission to a 5 speed. I hear of a Toyota (2T) from perhaps the Celica(? - but what year?). I have been referred to a company in Australia, Dellow Automotive [ www.dellowauto.com.au ], that sells conversion kits for what they call the 2T or 3T transmission but it is too pricy to ship to me. See, I am in the US. Toyota gurus here don't know... MORE
I think you may have problems getting an A-series to 2000cc to be honest, Bob. In fact, I don't think it's actually possible - the biggest I've heard of is around 1450 cc. Be sure to let us know how you get on, though. And 400 bhp sounds a tad optimistic to me - where do you get that figure from? I wouldn't expect more than 325 myself. ;^) S "Steve and Sue Clark" 31552... MORE
How I came to a Midget...? A few years ago, my brother gave me a 1975 FIAT X1/9. He was having some problems with it. I got those fixed. It was a fun little car. Like a go cart, but street legal. Well, one day I was driving around town and happened to look in the rear view mirror. All I saw was flames and smoke. Now, mind you, the only thing between me and the fire, was the gas tank. YIKES!! I thought to myself, "So this is how it's going to end. Riding a flaming FIAT into... MORE
This all just goes to prove that we must be careful what we say on this list. Some people out there believe almost anything some people say. What fun! Hmmmmm...spacer under the head and a huge stroker crank....perhaps from a large block Chevy with 427 pistons? Could happen...Hmmmmm...! Cheers Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 31566... MORE
Initially I thought it was the gasket, so I changed those. Then, when it still was leaking, I removed it from the fender well and the fluid was leaking out from the where the crank goes into the body. I only drive the beast in the summer. I have never had the heater on (I think the core leaks), so could I just come up with a couple plugs and seal off the hoses, thereby ignoring the valve altogether? "Michael" 31531... MORE
You would not have oil pressure of 400psi, a metro turbo oil pump with cold oil will only push a max of 130 psi. Maybe you are using a dry sump system that is not setup correctly. regards beckers 1330 "beckers" 31516... MORE
hi, Im in the process of pulling the engine from the car (1500) so it can be rebuilt. While it and the box are out it seems like the ideal time to change the box. However, im presented with a dilema. the purpose of rebuilding the engine is so i can run the car in sprints and hillclimbs so the close ratio box is pretty attractive, however, the ford box is still a closer ratio set than the original and has the added attraction of the extra gear for better cruising. Having said that the Moss close ratio box... MORE
Some people actually do believe what we say on this list, ...no matter how far the tongue is inserted in the cheek..! I am going to re build my A series engine up to 2 liters and get 400 horse power out of it, including 450 psi oil pressure. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 31550... MORE
Trevor - The original motors are from (not sure of the years and model types) something like 61 to 64 Buick Skylark sedans (I believe mines a 64), I think how the story goes is after the Buick 215 V8 went out of production the tooling was sold to Rover and is now known as the Rover aluminum 3.5 litre V8. Some parts are interchangeable between the motors, I plan on using polished Rover valve covers. I have some photos of the car (complete with mouse nest in the engine compartment) if you are interested.... Later Rick B. "Rick... MORE
The thermostat closes at 170 degrees F. Which means the rubber hose (engine to thermostat) will always be heated to 170 degrees, and the hoses from the thermostat to the oil cooler, sometimes. Rubber at 170 degrees is very pliable and any week spots which develop over time, will blow at the worst possible time and place. With the braided hoses, it will help keep the hose from expanding, forming a bubble at 70-80 lbs of pressure, and blowing a large hole. Replace them when you replace your radiator hoses and you shouldn't have a problem. I have 1500... MORE
'cause Robert... the oil filter isn't "100%" any more than anything else is. Why would you even want to take the chance of possibly introducing "abrasives" into your engine's lifeblood to begin with? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31477... MORE
G'day Ben I have a mate who melted his engine bearings three times in three successive race meetings, before he discovered the problem. The first melt-down was due to oil surge on corners, and he thought he had fixed that by putting a baffle in the sump. Two more melt-downs later, he discovered the oil cooler was clogged with the metal powder from the melted bearings. Don't ever use a second hand oil cooler. And don't forget you will need to buy the oil hose adaptor to the block, and the adaptor to the oil filter. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts"... MORE
850 Fiat Spyder!!!! Almost bought one of these sweet, little LIC's back when I was young and joyfully insane! :) What a sweet LIC....an absolute joy to drive in terms of "handling". About as fast (maybe!:) as a 948 Sprite but just as much of a ball to drive!! These neat little machines sounded utterly fantastic with an Abarth exhaust. (Today, a Cherry Bomb glasspack, of course!:) Thing is, the steel (frame) in Fiats of this era was of horrible quality. Here in the states, Fiat was all but banned from doing business due to this major fault in... MORE
G'day Martyn "Stumbling" on initial acceleration is also a syptom of running lean as you crack open the throttle. Once you get to cruising, the combination of damper springs, metering needes and adjustment might give you the right mixture, but the carby piston could be lifting too quickly as you try to accelerate. Try dumping the oil in the dashpots and putting in 20W50 engine oil. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 31444... MORE
"It pays to check everything (new or not)" Amen to this, Alan. Absolutely. The engine is the heart of the car, Alan. Of course, it's always a matter of one's "priorities" when it comes to spending one's hard-earned cash, though an oil cooler set-up is simply not that expensive when you consider the cost of building (or rebuilding?:) the motor. You might say a "new" (rather than used item) is, in this case, cheap insurance in the foregoing respect, "different strokes for different folks", notwithstanding. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31467... MORE
Ed, I actually agree with you , The proper way is to replace everything on the car with new items. That way you have no problems. !!!!!! On the other hand if money is tight ........ I think cleaning out , properly , is O.K. It depends what you need to spend money on. O.T.H. I didn't replace my secondhand cylinder block and sump , just gave them a good cleaning. Yet I have, in the past, heard of new parts being delivered with swarf or casting dentrite in them. I found what looked like a cast icicle in... MORE
I've got braided hoses but run an "off-engine" oil filter set-up ('cause I like to use the largest filter I can) and I like the protection the braid offers the rubber from any chaf, etc. Yet, James makes excellent and valid points for using rubber. Also, in the event you later decided to install an "oilstat", it's a much easier job with the rubber hoses. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31454... MORE
Well... Usually, a used oil cooler is not a good idea. Why, you may ask? Problem is you don't know the oil cooler's history...and those channels within are pretty small. If the engine the cooler came from was "making metal"....well....you get the point. Sure...you COULD clean the hell out of it, but...is it really "cleaned out" in the aforementioned case? Is it worth saving a couple of bucks to take the chance?? Your motor...your money... your decision!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31453... MORE
Roger wrote "Perhaps I am a fussy old git, but if you look after your engine by looking after the oil, it will look after you." I agree implicitly And Ed says never do it , fit a new one . (Ed, JustBrits sells oil coolers BTW :^) I agree to a certain extent, however the first time you use your oil cooler it will be second-hand. You will have the satisfaction that any crud that passes through it will be yours though.!!!! I believe if you thoroughly wash out the oil cooler with petrol or degreaser (paraffin /... MORE
Well after posting the message I cooled off and went back out and looked things over. I know that if the pistons open too quickly the engine will get a lot of fuel and not that much air. So I fiddle with the mixture nut and watched the piston when the throttle was opened. The pistons rose but the headers started to glow red! Argghh, I thought I'd timed the cam in better than that. Has anyone had a vernier cam gear slip on them? I don't remember a torque value on the securing screws, it's the Kent gear.... MORE
Good point on this, Beckers....absolutely. "Overadvance" or too much timing will normally cause a "stumble" initially, "off-idle" HOWEVER....with a cam profile such as the VP3 (or Kent 286), it can be just the other way 'round wherein more initial advance (recurving) just may be the ticket due to poor scavenging along with relatively poor cylinder filling "off-idle"....and larger inlet valves along with higher lift rockers exacerbate the problem, IF indeed this is the problem in this particular case. We shall trouble shoot and find the problem!!!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31421... MORE
I have a '76 midget with the weber conversion (New carb). Car runs fine under normal use (35,000 miles), but sometimes when idling at lights, the engine will "choke up", and start to falter. Revving the engine will clear it (accompanied by black smoke until cleared). This also can happen doing short stop-start errands in town. I'll get back to the car and it will require full throttle cranking, will misfire and eventually clear once I've given it some revs (accompanied again by the black smoke). Plugs don't show signs of a rich mixture (healthy tan colour) and I... MORE
Many would proabably disagree, but I would never use a second hand oil cooler unless I knew its history. If you do there is a lot of cleaning to do internally to make sure that you are not importing some rubish that will ruin your nice engine. Trouble is, you would not know untill things went wrong! Perhaps I am a fussy old git, but if you look after your engine by looking after the oil, it will look after you. R. "Roger Stinson" 31405... MORE
My son and I have finally finished the Sprite. Now we're work on some final tuning. The engine is a 1098 with a VP3 cam and 1.5/1 rockers, carbs have the rich needles and stiffer springs at Cap'n Bobs suggestion which I agree with. I can get it to idle at 1000 or so but when pulling away it sputters and stumbles. It will rev freely in neutral. Does anyone have an idea what the problem is? Ignition parts are new. Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 31400... MORE
Terry I think it is a 3 into one tubular manifold you are thinking of, this is the usual tuning mod on a Spridget exhaust, and yes I have a spare one on my project car. The project is a 1098 however I believe the Manifolds are identical to the 1275. I am in Peterborough Cambridgeshire and would be happy to do a straight swap (assuming your cast manifold is in reasonable condition) since I am going for originality on the rebuild. Contact me off list but put Midget in the subject in upper case so I can spot... MORE
