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Do not use an adhesive using any petroleum products/ solvents. It causes the Lexan to craze, loose strength and break down. Try to keep oil/petrol etc clear also as these affect Polycarbonate, which is what Lexan is, if my memory is functioning on all cylinders. (For choice, I would use Acrylic, but that doesn't help you does it! :-) Reminds me of the old countrymans saying - If I was going there, I wouln't start from here ....) R "Roger Stinson" 26402... MORE
Hi guys I've uploaded a few more photo's to the website photo's page under the folder Nigel-71-Midget. The underside is now finished in Blue Royale, the engine bay is primed and seam sealed ready for top coat and I'm just finishing the inside in primer. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26383... MORE
Hello all. Now that I have finally got my '79 Midget running good ti is time to turn my attention to the front end. My left front wheel is out of line. The wheel is pushing out at the bottom if viewed from the front of car. It is a more up and down than in and out sort of thing. The wheel needs to come out at the top to make it even (staigh). I am pretty sure this can not be achieved by adjusting the tie rods? Otherwise the car drives straight and sto ps straight without... MORE
Bob.... Go with an alcohol/water mix (60/40) and I am quite sure you could run up to 8psi boost on 9.4 with no problem but, you're gonna be far better off running both the foregoing along with an ignition retard system or, limiting advance to something like 24 degrees on a regular mechanical advance distributor considering the best you can get in terms of pump fuel will be 98RON unleaded. MSD makes an excellent boost retard ignition system and I am sure Aldon over there has some ideas in this respect as well which may very well consist of... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
if im building a midget metro turbo but want to keep the boost to 7/8 psi and use an intercooler and aquamist 1s water injection could i use the comp ratio of 9.4:1? and remain well under detonation level? what would be the best way to build this engine or which engine midget/marina etc would be best to use for this application? the reason for the higher comp is i still want good half throttle fuel economy which ignition system would people reccomend for this too? thanks for using everyones vast knowledge rob "Robert EADES" 26378... MORE
is there any difference between the morris marina and midget 1275 engine? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 26369... MORE
Do you smell gas when driving of if the car is parked? If no puddles, no smell, no pools of fluid on the engine then are you sure you are losing fuel? Could it be the gauge? Fill it up drive home...Park it...next day go back and fill her up again. How much is gone? More than normal for that trip? Could someone be stealing your gas out of the tank? Bill French Hilton Head frenchww@... 26366... MORE
Ed... This is strictly a matter of density altitude or to put it differently, the amount of air molecules per cubic foot of.....air!! The air at 10,000 feet is much "thinner" than the air at sea level...it is much "lighter" per cubic foot. Fr'instance, at sea level a cubic foot of air weighs 14.7 lbs. It weighs half of this at an altitude of 18,000 feet. The adiabatic lapse rate (temp. change per thousand feet) and it's humidity figure into this but we'll ignore these for now. So for the volume of air taken in at 10,000 feet, you... MORE
I understand what you mean - I hadn't thought to check the amount of thread in the top of the dashpot. I might give this a go with the 1" SUs I've got sitting in the garage - the front one of those rattles the bonnet. There's no problem with the amount of free space for the piston when it's fully raised, is there? Regards David "David Jacobs" 26333... MORE
- David,wih just taking 1/4" of the pot,there is still enough thread left to screw in the piston rod cap,but l do tend to back off the thread on the cap,so that it still threads right down,are you in the uk as l could explain clearer over the phone. regards wes "wesley5060" 26330... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
Bob, Well... You're right what skews my thinking is that many years ago I had a worn timing chain that was so bad the headers would glow red as the engine speed increased. BTW the chain is new duplex with vernier gears. In order to get it to idle 900-1000 I had to retard the timing (rotate the dizzy ccw). The idle screws would have no effect on the speed unless I did that. Does this mean I got some leaks around the carb shafts? I'm going to go back and static time the ignition and see where it's... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Rod Welcome to the list. As people have said before it could be either the steering rack or the kingpin thats causing your problem. Although in my opinion it's more than likely the kingpin thats causing it. Non-centering of the steering is a classic problem relating to worn/out of adjustment/non-lubricated kingpins, it is the fit of the kingpin that governs steering centering. Also, knowing how poorly maintained front suspensions are generally and how wear in them can affect steering, and you having just acquired this Midget, in my opinion its almost certain its wear in the kinkgpin assembly. The... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Well, I thought I had the cam timed in right. I got it to idle <1000 but when revved up it spits a little and the headers glow slightly red! Arggh, I need to retime the cam. I think it's slightly retarded, the cam that is! Am I correct in this? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26326... MORE
"...all you can do is steer them in the right direction...." LOL......priceless, Nigel!! I recall when I could not get the toe to stay put on my '74 Midget when I first acquired it. After replacing tie rod ends, bearings, etc., I finally just broke down and replaced the whole suspension with new parts. And prior to this, it WAS "stiff" and while it became less stiff with much grease, it then became loose due to worn clearances, even as it became less stiff as we continued to grease it often. So diplomacy aside, it can be just as... MORE
The 1098 has a long stroke relative to its bore, so with VP3 cam I expect it would be more 'lumpy' running engine.Especially at low end of revs and not particularly a fast revving engine either (not knowing what else has been done to the engine of course) Don , Part Scotch , nah !!!. Scottish maybe but not Scotch, scotch is whisky !!! Depends on how much you have drunk over the years I suppose, then you could be part scotch !!! 8o) Jaeger , not English or ever made in England as far as I know, but... MORE
Rod... Nigel may be right (probably is because his reasons are sound) but, go the "inexpensive" Cap'n Bob's suggestion first because grease in the steering rack will cause the same symptoms of heavy steering and an unwillingness to self- center and it's a lot less expensive fix, in the event!! :):) There is nothing "wrong" with the front end suspension set-up other than it's rather "crude" but Nigel is absolutely correct in that premature wear is caused mainly by a lack of proper maintenance as in not following factory recommended lubrication schedules. And yes, the king pins (and everything... MORE
Well, Alan (good morning, BTW!)... The VP3 would be "more" of a cam in the smaller rather than larger bore engines. The shorter the stroke, the more "square" the engine, the more "revability", all else equal (BIG caveat.. the latter!:). So, the long bore stock 1098 wouldn't be a "revver" but man, it has got to be one of the smoothest of all Series A varients with it's "silky" exhaust note. Martyn's 1098 is "built" though. Friend of mine owns an XK140....huge Jaeger gauges....a good 4.5" I believe for tach and/or speedo. Good point on the red lights...which is... MORE
Brad... Problem with Rod is stiffness.... which, if you look at the above sentence is sort of funny in it's own way (not that there is anything wrong with that!) though we are talking about his Spridget's steering, of course. :) Geoff Branch has the problem with "sound" coming from his front end, so I hope he is listening to you...:):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26316... MORE
how do you go about re-cutting the thread in the damper pot, to screw in the piston rod cap? David "David Jacobs" 26293... MORE
Hi, Rod...welcome. Can be either/or. You will notice on the steering rack that the lubricator nipple looks to be a regular grease nipple...well, it's actually a nipple for an OIL gun with the correct fitting, such as one would find at a Marine Supply Store. Most people don't realize this and grease the rack instead of "oiling" it. Not much of a problem in nice, warm summer weather but, as soon as it cools off, the steering becomes as you describe it (assuming it's just this and not kingpins, etc.). Normally, warming up the boots covering the rack than... MORE
Perfect spec. for the cam...perfect, Martyn.!~!:) Enjoy! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26307... MORE
