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Thanks for the info Gerard, and here's what I did... I measured the "at rest" distance between the mounts to be 12", but I didn't know at the time to note the tie-rod angle. I picked up the front end of the car, upper arm dropped against the rubber stop, and measured 13.5". Set the car back down gave a tape measure to my daughter and asked her to measure how much the car was moving up and down as I stood on the two front frame extensions jumping up and down myself. Don't laugh=85 it worked. My results... MORE
Hello Group. Just started to rebuild a mk2/3? midget. Stored in dry conditions for 9 years, from elderly relative. Main bodywork panels repaired or replaced. Engine out, with other various components etc. Where do I start first? A list of your top ten major jobs to do first!!!!! That should be enough to frighten me, before we get started. Regards Sue & John Daniells Lincolnshire England "Sue" 24477... MORE
All good points.... and yes....since you have to pull the engine to replace the clutch, always do so whenever the engine has to come out (unless you know it's basically brand new) for whatever reason...matter of economics...quite right, Bill French! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24481... MORE
Good Question, but before any one of the many experts can respond you both must agree on what is your objective. Get running and enjoy. Rebuild, show and drive. Other. Why was the engine pulled? Did the car run or was their a problem? While the engine is out, and I assume the Trans.; Take and inventory to see what is there and what's not. Inspect the Trans. gears and see if all turns O.K. Inspect the braking system. Remove the interior stuff including the seats to inspect cockpit. From there it depends on what you two decide you... MORE
Hi, Sue... Were it me, I would start with suspension and hydraulics (shocks, brakes), detail the engine compartment while the engine is out and go from there. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24478... MORE
Welcome Sue, To add to Bob's suggestions. Often oxidation on electrical connections is a major problem with cars that are old and particularly if they have sat for long periods of time. There are many spade wire connectors on the backs of switches, gauges, lamps and the wiring harness has many bullet in line connectors, in black insulation tubes. At minimum pull off and push spade connectors back on, or bullet inline connectors apart and back together several times to break the surface crud. Spray with some WD40 before and after you do this. If they look very oxidized... MORE
Hi Drew, I don't know if this is a help or an answer to your question, but I think I would approach it this way. You want your tie rod ends to be as straight (horizontal) as possible at rest. This is for something callled "bump steer". The more angle you have to the tie rods the more toe-in/toe-out you will have as the cars rises or drops. You'll know your upper limit (chassis rising- wheel drop) by your bump stops. Racer's (at least Chuck's blue #50) had adjustable bolts used as bunp stops to limit travel. Lower limit...... MORE
surely the bump stops should be the limits of movement - if the shock absorbers didn't have as much travel, you'd risk bending their rods when you hit a bump. Regards David "David Jacobs" 24473... MORE
What's the normal suspension swing on an early (62) Spridget ? I installed a tube shock kit (by "We Race" or some other name like that) and I need to get a set of shocks to fit. When the car is at rest the distance between the mounting points is 12". I have a heavier "non-standard" engine, 400 lb springs and a =BE" anti-sway bar. What kind of suspension travel should I include in figuring out the overall compress and extended shock lengths=85. plus or minus 3", 2", plus 3" & minus 2"=85 etc. etc.?? Cheers, -Drew Drew @... MORE
In the process of checking out the clutch slave cylinder linkage I reached up to move aside the ground strap a bit to have a better view. The strap is from the lower clutch slave cylinder bolt to the chassis frame, the normal original configuration. It appeared to be a full strap, although covered with oil and dirt as they often are. A gentle push and it moved aside in two pieces, only a few strands were left under the dirt and oil and they parted under the least amount of pressure . . . Nothing can be taken... MORE
Hi Don, This could be the clutch, but I don't think so. If it were, you have some trouble, even if only occasionally, with second or one of the synchro gears as well. What you describe is probably caused by you first motion shaft continuing to spin even when the clutch is disengaged. With no synchro, there is nothing to slow the spinning non-synchro gear. My interpretation is that the first motion shaft is kept spinning by the pilot bushing or bearing. Could be a burred up bearing/bush (some 1275's has a phosphor bronze bushing, some had a needle... MORE
Actually this sounds normal if its just a slight crunch as you select 1st or reverese.. As the 4 speed box attached to the A-Series has not syncro on first or reverse.. and never did have. the 1500 boxes IIRC have syncro on all 4 forward gears, can't remember about reverse. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 24456... MORE
After some thought here is what I think, since you have no problems with any gear when the car is not running, and the only link to the engine from the transmission is the CLUTCH than I say its the clutch . You have no problems starting the car in first or reverse and you can drive the car in first and reverse so the transmission must be OK or at least in good shape. It takes a good clutch release to engage 1st and reverse. Just a logical thought... good luck . crfkingfish@... 24457... MORE
I have a transmission problem, or clutch, and would like some feedback on what I should look for as the possible problems. It is in the 73 rwa, 1275, ribcase trans. It was not driven for about a year prior to my purchasing it. I have trouble shifting into first and reverse most of the time with the engine running, then for brief periods of time strangely it will shift fine into first and reverse without any gear noise. I have bled the clutch lines and it looks like the travel at the slave is enough to disengage the... MORE
"Aldon Distributors" Aldon did a PerTronix equipped 45D mechanical curve for my 8.3-1 motor, based upon a planned (Judson) 6psi boost curve. Less than $300 including shipping. Bill Perry got the dizzy. In checking it on a distributor machine, it did not match the written curve provided. Bill shipped the dizzy up to me in CT so Pete Sachs guys could check it out on their machine(s). Sure enough....wrong curve. Shipped it back to Aldon after trading e-mails. Returned in a heartbeat with the "correct" curve...Aldon paid all shipping costs (by Air..both ways). Morals: 1.Check this part as you... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
The Midget Mk2 - Sprite Mk3 definitely had wind up windows and a strengthened 1098 with bigger crank bearings in addition to the disc brakes of the earlier so called MG 1.5 Sprite 2.5 (or substitute b for .5) R. "Roger Stinson" 24421... MORE
Nigel I think the 'reclining' seats came in with the 'leylandised' version with the split and narrower bumpers. I will look and see if I can find the original sales literature to confirm this. Several of my friends had 1275 engines, without the recliners. R. "Roger Stinson" 24420... MORE
On the Mk2 Midget (Mk3 Sprite) with the 1098 engine and the D I Y hood kit, the ignition and the boot key were definitely different key patterns, with different keys. That is how they left the factory. R "Roger Stinson" 24419... MORE
First thing to do is to make sure the standard system is work at its peak efficiency. Give the system a good flush, you may need to use a flushing product though sometimes a good flush by taking all hoses off and shoving the hosepipe into any orifice you can will do the trick. An electic fan will certainly help. Gives you an hp or two more, helps the car warm up quicker and provides better cooling when in traffic. IMHO an electric fan works better as a puller not a pusher i.e. between the engine and the rad.... MORE
Sprite 2 / Midget 1 also went to front disc brakes at the same time as the 948 to 1098 change. Sprite 3 / Midget 2 have wind up windows not sidescreens. "Jeremy Cogman" 24413... MORE
Max Heres the List - Austin Healey Sprite MkI (Frogeye/Bugeye) (Mar 58-Dec 1960) (948cc engine) Austin Healey Sprite MkII and MG Midget MkI (Feb 1961-Jan 64) (948cc engine, 1098 from 1963) [Sidescreens, fixed/removable hood] Austin Healey Sprite MKIII and MG Midget MkII (Jan 1964-Sept 66) (1098cc engine) [Sidescreens and fixed/removable hood] Austin Healey Sprite MKIV and MG Midget MKIII (Oct 66-Aug 69) (1275cc Engine) [Wind up windows, folding hood and reclining seats] Austin Healey Sprite MKIV and MG Midget MKIII (Oct 69-Oct 1974) (1275cc Engine) [Wind up windows, folding hood and reclining seats] Facelifted version with thinner front bumpers,... MORE
It took me 14 months after I bought my Bugeye, BUT, the P.O. had stripped and primed the car, had the engine, transmission, and rear end rebuilt. All I had to do was paint, find seats, (recover) and totaly assemble the car. Bob. Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24401... MORE
Yikes!! That's scary...hmmmm, I have a Corvette LT1 engine, presently in a Cadillac Fleetwood. I could do a double engine swap and have a 10 mph Caddy and a 200 mph Bugeye which would kill me... "Jeffrey Holmes" 24398... MORE
adam I am in Leeds 1275 Midget rebuild over last couple of years and used for hill climbing at Harewood. I can certainly help as regards how to get things wrong first time and on various mods. Welcome to come and have a look and chat. I am climbing at Harewood Bholiday Sunday if interested. "Peter Whittle" 24391... MORE
