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Nope. Grade 8 is stronger is tension and in shear. BTW, there are plenty of grade 8 and stronger bolts in old cars. They just aren't marked as such. Don't believe that? Okay, torque up some grade 5 rod bolts in your (pre 1980) L88. Can you say "bang"? "Jeffrey Holmes" 25521... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
I finally got fuel flow up to the carbs but the front jet is leaking where it threads into the float bowl. I tightened it but it still leaks the tube can be pulled out of the nut even when tight. Is there anything that can be done or is it time for new jets? This engine better start right away or else! Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25526... MORE
"Ok, I exaggerated" Oh....ok. 'Cause you never know, Kevin... people do put different engines in these cars from time to time. So...back on track. I would go with the Bob Gardner idea regarding running the engine without the valve cover and seeing whether the oil is flowing freely down the lifter holes back down into the block..... and let us know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25523... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
Don, Beware. I had a Midget with a similar modified push rod which I didn't know about. I installed a new 3 piece clutch kit and everything was fine for about 3 months until the thrust bearing went bang. New bearing .. went bang again. What has actually happened was that the thrust bearing operating fork has bent. This is not easy to see unless you have two of them side by side. This meant that the thrust bearing was no longer hitting the exact centre of the clutch leading to premature wear. Inspect all part carefully ! Regards... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE
Nice going! Is that a Speed Channel video cam I see mounted on the passenger side? When do we get to see the video? Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 25477... MORE
Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE
Mike, Thanks for the advice. I have a new replacement pushrod which I will use when I install a clutch kit which will be soon. I am not going to drive the car until I replace the clutch. Don "Don May" 25485... MORE
When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE
Here is a "we tight" replacement for when the coloured celluloid used in the metal dashboard arrow-shaped cut outs goes awol. The screw caps from plastic cartons of milk sold in UK supermarkets is just the right degree of translucency to cut to fit as replacements. You can even go for a choice of colours depending on full cream, semi-skimmed, skimmed or fruit juices. Not sure about you lot over t'pond. I know you have different dashboards and other habits. Hope you have been enjoying a good wekend. Guy "Guy Weller" 25435... MORE
I'm in the process of rebuilding my motor(1275+). I had the crank lightened (wedged,-2lbs), balanced and polished during it's stay at the machine shop. The block was cleaned and new main bearing were installed. When I test fit the caps, with 40lbs torque but without the Thrust Washers, the crank turned smoothly with little effort (I used assembly lube). I removed all the caps and then reinstalled them with new Thrust Washers from VB; now the crank needs about thirty pounds (approx) of force to start it rotating. It still moves smoothly but requires some effort. There is no... MORE
Jim C. My factory maint. man. shows crankshaft end float (taken at the main bearing) at .001-.003 Main Caps @ 60 Rod Caps @ 35 Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25441... MORE
Everything is ready to start the engine but no fuel! Arrgh! I must have screwed up when I sealed my tank! I must have sealed the outlet pipe shut. I remember someone having done the same and fixed it. I don't remember what the fix was, must be old age! I've tried poking a piece of 1/8 inch wire down the fitting but not sure if I've reached the offending blockage. Thanks for the help. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25433... MORE
Naw. It would be nearly impossible to have too much oil from the rocker assy, and the movement of the push rods (which move somewhat sideways as well as up and down) would prevent the holes from plugging up. What you've got is excessive crankcase pressure, which prevents the oil draining back into the sump. Since the engine sat for a long time, may have multiple broken piston rings, possibly a broken piston. Have a compression test done. If compression is good, then the problem is plugged up or disconnected crankcase ventilation system. With the oil fill cap removed,... MORE
Jeff Holmes states: "Naw" Could be, Jeff. But I know a guy who raced a Spridget up at Lime Rock that had the exact problem I speak of....now this isn't a racing application as far as we know...but we don't know otherwise either....this could be a street tuned motor for all we know...lister didn't say and probably doesn't know.... excessive rocker clearances with otherwise good bearing clearances reasonably good oil pressure which could flood the valve area in a hearbeat. That's why I asked this lister if he had oil going by the lower engine seals and out the... MORE
Check to see if the hose from the top of the oil separator canister on front of the timing chain cover to the carburetors is clogged up and if the two small inlet pipes where the hoses connect at the carburetors are not clogged up. Spray a little carburetor cleaner in them. Don "Don May" 25419... MORE
The lip goes up to form a trim ring of rubber around the base of the post. Don "Don May" 25416... MORE
Bradsky... Milling the head slightly will have no ill effect upon anything, considering how little you are removing, assuming it had stock 21cc chambers to begin with. As a matter of fact, milling the head rather than going to flattops is the preferred way of raising the compression ratio moderately according to Dave Vizard, this having a more salutory effect on combustion/flow characteristics than a piston configuration change. For racing, the factory goes to 16.4cc chambers before they start raising compression by changing piston configuration so I guess this is the safe limit before head strength is compromised. What... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Don, You were likely over extending the clutch pressure plate. I don;t recal the pivot point balance, but the 1/8 inch at the slave doesn't mean equal travel at the TO bearing. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25389... MORE
Hi, Kevin... You will eventually hear from a lot of others on this I'm sure, in time. If the oil pressure is good (10psi or more at idle and about 60psi running at 3,000 rpm or better), two things come immediately to mind, considering it's coming out the oil filler hole and not out between the block/head. 1. excessive clearances in the rocker system between bush/shaft and/or 2. larger than normal pushrods (aftermarket "performance") which may be slowing oil flow back down into the crankcase as these can be thicker in diameter than stock. I am assuming the engine... MORE
Kevin. When the oil starts to puke out of the valve cover oil filler cap, quickly take off the cap and check for two things. First see it the valve cover is actually full or almost full of oil and bubbles are causing the oil popping out or check for too much positive crank case pressure by putting your hand over the open oil filler hole and sealing it up for about 30 seconds and lifting your palm. Do you get a gigantic "WHOOSH" of pressure or just a little "fiffft" of pressure. Then report back to the LBC... MORE
