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I just finished putting the tranny and engine together, and will be putting it into the car presently. I know many times that a common electrical problem is the ground strap from the engine to the body. I have not had that problem, but then I still have the original bracket that bolts at the bottom of the tranny bell housing and fixes to the "frame" rail. Would anyone like photos of my setup, for future reference, or to try and manufacture a bracket on their own? I have one on the bench for my Bugeye, that I can... MORE
I have a generous gift voucher from friends at work as a leaving present. I told them I wanted to choose some tools. Despite being known as a "fixer" most thought it an odd sort of retirement gift to choose. I explained that a good set of spanners would get daily use, last me my remaing years and every time I picked one up it would remind me of their friendship, whilst a clock or picture or book would just gather dust. In my retirement speech I commented that my wife bought me the last full spanner set when... MORE
Mr. Houston. I'll have you know that there will be no scoring done unless he can get my engine purring smoothly. "Virginia" 26032... MORE
Hmmm, could be several things. With these plastic filters, as I recall, the fuel flows into the centre of the filter element and outwards so you don't see when it's full of clag. T hat said, you can drive on long cruising stretches fine. IT could therefore be the fuel pump. This is (if it is as standard) mounte d under the 'rear seat' and has a crude (but effective electro-mechanical m echanism akin to a doorbell. IT contains a set of electrical points which detoriarate over time which can lead to the pump 'sticking'. Often a bang on... MORE
Julien... Well, could be an old or weak fuel pump, lack of a heat shield between carbs and engine (it gets hot under there when not moving at speed) causing fuel to percolate or "vapour lock", or lack of a vented fuel cap (though the latter is usually a case of fuel starvation which shows up under load..as in climbing a long hill with the foot well down). So, number one, check for the heat shield (basically a metal plate upon which the throttle return springs are mounted in the stock set-up). If it's "there"....go to... ...number two; at... MORE
Good evening all ... I was a bit concerned that my 'Sprite' had acquired a 'Midget' shell in later life in the shape of a heritage shell ... but it does look good ... Bodywork is white on the new shell... have no idea what the original colour was...the only 2 numbers I have are :chassis AAN10 86855G and engine 12CEPAH15596 but hey Colin it looks like you may have something quite unique ...and it looks very good ... I must admit to finding all these snipets of information very moreish ... I met an old gentleman at the... MORE
G'day Linda, Nigel et al My Austin Sprite is AAN10/87699G, body number 105002, engine 12CEDAH17223, built 2 June 1971. Midnight Blue. The most interesting thing about the car, however, is that it is a RWA - round wheel arch. According to all the texts, RWA cars were only ever badged as MG Midgets. But this car is definitely a Sprite (AAN10 prefix) and it has not been modified at the rear. All panels, welds, seams etc are original. Since the factory were building RWA shells in June 1971, it seems quite possible that one of them escaped with Sprite... MORE
Hello Group, Due to near arrival of Child number 2, sadly, I have to dispose of some non-core assets (can't eat it or wear it!). I have a 68 Midget in Old English White. 3 owners and 33,000 miles from new (genuine). Bodywork restored to a very high standard. The solid sound of the door shutting is like no other. The downside is that I think I broke one of the piston rings when building the engine. Also very small area of paint damage on top of o/s wing due to overcrowded garage. I've no time to fix it... MORE
Guy Trust you, Mr Thrifty ; ) I'd never really though about that to be honest, I just wanted to replace t =3D=0D he rubber diaphragm with another new rubber diaphragm, cost wasn't an issue to be honest, not that I'm saying that 'it'll be done at all costs' just th =3D=0D at I wanted the seats as original as everything else. What I was unhappy about was the strip that goes round the SU fuel pump. =A31.70 for a strip of self adhesive that didn't even have the correct SU l og=3D=0D o on it, I did ring... MORE
IMHO, Moss in the UK are not as good as they once were. Spridgets are def. the poor relation and you so often end up talking to someone with no interest/knowledge. Jeremy I haven't no, I usually get my parts from Moss. However I will ring them tommorow and ask if they're still supplying the 'rubber bladder' type and if so, will exchange the webbing type for one of those. Thanks, Nigel jeremy.cogman@... 25868... MORE
Jeremy I haven't no, I usually get my parts from Moss. However I will ring them tommorow and ask if they're still supplying the 'rubber bladder' type and if so, will exchange the webbing type for one of those. Thanks, Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25854... MORE
My guess would be "Yes", Bob... With ALCOHOL/water injection. Stock HC 1275's run only 8.8-1 and the Turbo Metros ran higher. They also had forged pistons but the stock Spridget piston while cast, is a pretty strong item as they take low pressure supercharging (with appropriate 100RON gasoline) without a problem. This would be up to 7psi. Intercooling makes a big difference but alcohol/water really "brings back" the leaded 100+RON octanes of yesterday. This stuff injected in appropriate amounts really cools down the combustion process. The Turbo Metro head uses the larger 1.4 intake valves I think. For more... MORE
Cap'n Bob, With respect back at ya.....Wow! Where do I start. I think the current malaise owes a lot to the sixties ethos. Self actualization, do your own thing, I'm OK, you're OK etc. This experimentation with the social contract eroded the very qualities that made us what we are. Relativism is evil. Black and white are just as valid as gray. The corporate cheaters don't bother me nearly as much. They got caught and we've survived it before. Rockefeller, Gould, Vanderbilt et al. I have more trouble with action groups, eco-freaks for example, who cloak their particular brand... MORE
Well... Oil is absolutely coming up through the pushrod tubes...faster than it can drain down...It must be coming up from the lifter gallery as it seems that the lifter gallery is filling first before it pushes the oil up through the pushrod tubes and into the valve-spring-rocker-arm-area. There doesn't seem to be anything leaking (more than should be expected) from the rocker shaft assembly. Thanks again to anyone who has posted... Kevin "kevin_tonita" 25796... MORE
the engine needs rebuilding at the moment as it burns a little oil when reved out of gear - slightly blue, i dont think i will be able to turbo it at the moment because im 20 (= stupid insurance), so would like a build which is a good investment for power later down the road and i think turboing is a good, reliable (cheapish) way to this any ideas on how to do this wisely without wasting (too much) money? has anyone tried avonbar self build kits, are these hard to put together? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25775... MORE
Roger Thats really helpful considering the question related to a 1973 '1275'cc LOL Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 25777... MORE
If it did it would be the first turbo lump to have a higher compression than the NASP version. Forgot to say the pistons are Forged not cast. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25772... MORE
Turbo head is not very different to the standard 1275 head. You will need the turbo pistons though. This will lower the compression ratio. they are also forges rather than cast and as such stronger Stewart "Ford Prefect" 25769... MORE
if i was to use a metro turbo on my midget, changed to a turbo head and used and intercooler and water injection would i be able to use the standard compression ratio or would this melt the engine? cheers Rob "Robert EADES" 25764... MORE
found this online ad thought i would pass it on..i have a picture of the ca =3D=0D r in my pict folder (62 midget) quote: "The string-back gloves are off... MG Rover is aiming to knock its rivals f =3D=0D or six with a sensational reinvention of the Midget. Inspired by one of the most successful cars the firm has ever built, the dr =3D=0D op-top is aimed at the likes of the Ford Streetka and Smart Roadster - both of which were revealed to international acclaim last =3D=0D year. Other rivals include the forthcoming Volkswagen Polo Spyder and... MORE
The Morris minor engine will bolt straight in and sit on the original mountings as log as you still have them! However there are some minor (?) differences, but very few of these will prevent the car form driving. You will have to fit an electric fuel pump as the original 948 had an AC mechanical pump driven from the crank shaft, the Morris minor had an SU electric pump, and so the block will not have the hole in the side to fit the mechanical pump. The minor engine will be one of three sizes. 803cc in which... MORE
If my memory serves me correctly, your car is a Mk2 Midget with the dual master cylinder. This means that if you lose fluid from the brakes, the clutch stops working properly and I think this is the first thing to check. The chances are, if you can't see fluid leaking anywhere, that the rear wheel cylinder could be faulty. I hope that I am wrong but have a careful look. R. "Roger Stinson" 25702... MORE
didn't the Metro Turbo have a 9.4:1 compression ratio? David "David Jacobs" 25771... MORE
Until I get the transmission from the 68 repaired, I have dug through the extras in shed. I started with the latest one that came out of a 65 Midget, that had not been on the road in over 20 years. The shifter would not move, and the input shaft was almost locked. I put an old yoke on the back and gave it a bit more pressure and got it to move. I forced the shifter into all gears, and got a nice positive, firm movement on front and rear shafts. The thing that concerned me was the... MORE
Whilst it may not be the trouble in this case, it is possible for broken bits of bearing cage or other unrequired detritus to find its way into the holes in the casing that allow the change rods to move back and forwards. If this happens, the gearbox may be stuck in gear or not go into gear at all. had the problem on one of my cars. Not fun, but it is quite 'do able' R "Roger Stinson" 25698... MORE
