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The lack of door handles sounds right, but the biggest and most definitive mark of a Mk1 midget is the rear suspension, and its also the main cause of death (to the car!) if it's a mk1 midget it will have quarter elliptic springs not semi ecliptics like later sprites/midgets. I also suspect the MkII MG and MkIII AH had an electric rev counter, which the Mk1/II did not, this is a mechanical device driven off the back of the dynamo from a reduction device. IIRC a 948 A-Series engine number starts with a 9, the 1098 starts with... MORE

Fellow listers, Any 1500 listers out there who have done a clutch replacement? I am at the point of refitting the new unit and all three of my manuals instruct me to mount the drive plate with the side saying "flywheel" towards the flywheel. Great logic except mine doesn't say anything. Neither does the one I'm replacing. If someone knows how to tell which way round to mount the bloody thing I'll have my engine back installed in a jiff. Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 32396... MORE

1972 chrome bumper Still working on my badge bar. Found I had to bolt the bumper on then fit the badge bar using another bumper fixing nut to hold it on. As regards the repro spot lights and the MGOC fixing brackets I had to make reducing sleeves so the spotlight fixing nuts did not go through the much too large fixing hole. MGOC say the hole in the bracket is OK for an original Lucas Blue Spot spotlight but not fo the repor type. Terry "terry.isherwood" 32394... MORE

Finally got a chance to follow the wires for the non working brake lights. The stoplight switch doesn't complete the circuit and light the brake lights, they do work when I use a jumper wire and short across the switch. It is located on the end of the MC housing inside the engine compartment. Anyone know the tricks to replacing the switch? TIA Neil "Neil Hernan" 32401... MORE

When I first got the bug for these cars, it was with a 65 Midget. I bought a 73 with no title for the drivetrain, and put it in the 65. The 1275 HAD t he hookup on the filter mount (spin on) so I just hooked the wire to it lik e it showed in the Bentley. A few months later, on my way home from Fort Wo rth, the light came on. That had me sweating till I got home, checked the b ook, and saw that all I needed to do was change the oil. This... MORE

G'day Brad Glad you noticed that the new Pontiac GTO was designed and built in Oz. It's the Holden Monaro fitted with the Callaway Corvette engine and an uglified US nose. The original Oz nose is much nicer, but I think there was a bit of the "not made here" syndrome affecting the redesign. There is a local Holden dealership about 200 yards from my Workshop. I will get prices on the CORRECT badges on Monday. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 32370... MORE

It's part of the bolt-on filter head. The only one I have ever seen is on the canister type, not the spin-on. I have an engine from a '69 Midget and it was standard equipped with the cannister type. The sensor is not present, so it must have been done away with by the time the spin-on type was implemented. I know this was original, because I pulled it from a car in 1970 when it was less than a year old (wrecked). Gerard "gerardchateau" 32367... MORE

Those sound like the 1500 type, but I guess there are different ones supplied in different manufacturers' gasket sets. Guy "Guy Weller" 32344... MORE

don't have a flywheel between the rear of the crank and the clutch. ;-) Guy "Guy Weller" 32343... MORE

If the breather system is the source of smoking it is extremely easy to check. Simply disconnect it! A 10 minute test drive will show up the difference if this is the problem. Disconnecting the breather will almost certainly cause the rear crank seal to leak oil during this test. Personally, I doubt if a faulty breather is the cause of smoking. It is much more likely to be a cause of a bottom-end oil leak than a top end smoking problem. Guy "Guy Weller" 32332... MORE

David, On an engine with a badly worn rocker shaft it will pump oil under pressure from under the rocker bushes faster than it will drain by gravity down the push-rod holes. Once the level builds up above the ends of the valve guides - which may take a mile or two at medium to high revs, the stem seals on the valves no longer control the entry of oil down the valve guides. Then the blue smoke starts. Guy "Guy Weller" 32331... MORE

Be careful! If you cause oil to leak out the rear of the crank, you may well oil your clutch, and it's an engine out job to replace the disc! "joe blxfstz" 32335... MORE

Brad, my rebuilt 1275 smoked blue and I followed all sorts of advice from list members to get it right before I finally fixed it. Of many "cures" attemted, the two that made the most difference in my case were: 1. Replacement of the rocker shaft. Too much oil was leaking out of the rocker bushes. It was apparent by running the engine with the rocker cover off. I left the cork gasket seated on the head and let the engine run at fast tickover. It leaked so fast that it soon created a lake on the top of... MORE

I think the spacers are welded to the RB shell, so you'd have to cut them off - make sure they don't contain the threaded holes for your mounting plates! As far as I remember, on my 1275, the rear half of the loom joins the front inside the cockpit, not the engine bay. David "David Jacobs" 32330... MORE

So I can dump the spacers on the rear mountings with no ill effects?. BTW anyone know where the wring loom runs? my shall is now in primer waiting for colour, and I have dug the loom out, had a look at it and found it to be serviceable, and I now realize I have no idea where it runs. I vaguely remember the section hath runs to the rear ran down the drivers side (UK car) and there was a bit that ran under the dash witch seems to plug into the front loom on the passenger side... MORE

The pcv system should produce a slight vacuum. Remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the hole with the engine running. You should be able to feel a slight vacuum at idle and also when you increase engine speed. If you feel even slight pressure, you will get oil past the rings (and probably out the rear crank "seal".) "joe blxfstz" 32327... MORE

Worn rocker gear by itself should not make a huge difference to the amount of oil burnt, except for the fact that there would be more of the stuff sloshing about up there to get sucked down (worn) valve guides. To see if it is worn, you can get a reasonable idea by pushing the rockers against their springs along the shaft from their normal positions - if the shaft itself is worn, you will see/feel a ridge on the underneath (thrust side) and the rockers will have less side-play on the un-worn section of shaft. If you want... MORE

Where's it dripping from? Drain plug? Dif. housing gasket? Vent? Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32342... MORE

Brad, You can see if your rocker shaft is okay or not by removing the valve cover after the engine is warmed up and restart the engine. If oil is thrown all over the place or runs out of one or more rocker arms in streams then it is worn. If oil isn't thrown all over the place and only a small amount can be seen dribbling down the rockers then it's probably okay. 'Usually' if they are really worn the oil will be coming out fast enough that the drain holes can't keep up with it and you... MORE

The 68 STILL burns oil. From cold, the first 5 miles are just little puffs, then it goes into James Bond mode. Not full time, it comes and goes. I tried our shop mechanics idea to determine if the rings are seated. I have the head off, so I put 1" of oil on top of each piston. The oil has not dropped hardly at all in 1 1/2 hours. I can tell from the head, which chambers were burning oil, and the one that was not, has the most significant amount of seepage, almost 1/8", the others are... MORE

I am in the middle of changing the front suspension on the 68. I am catching my breath, and allowing the spring pans and disc brake backers to dry from being coated with fresh paint. Thank you to Peter for the new shocks, I will have the cores on their way to you this week. Btw, I was missing the bolt on the right shock that keeps the trunion bolt from turning, I hope this isn't a big issue. Just Ed, the parts are great, everything is going on fine!!! All the bolts coming threaded through the bushings, eliminated... MORE

"We can all agree...." Yes we can, Jens...most of us. There are some (few?) who think "oil is oil" and this is true...unless you are talking the "additive packages" that brand name mfgrs. add to the basic stock intended specifically for automotive use. Then the "oil is oil" idea goes right out the window! :):) Paul A (and I) use(d) Fram's for many, many moons with no problems so it is quite possible that conscientious scheduled oil (and filter) changes are more "key" in this than alleged quality of filter. I don't know but certainly, "better" is "better" by... MORE

Listers, I need to sell off some of my spare parts. I have several 948, 1098 and 1275 engine or partial engines to sell. One 1275 is a complete low mileage, clean and running engine. others are rebuildable cores, but pretty much everything I have is degreased and ready for whatever you'd like to use it for (table base?) I also have several MD 266 cams, mostly the narrow lobe variety for use in 948 or 1098 engines. I also have several used headers. all are the 3 into one type. I also have a complete rear clip from... MORE

Hi Cap'n and Jens, I guess I've got to be a lone noise in the wind here. I've always used Fram or Pennzoil filters for as long as I can remember. I've got a 1275 in my van that has almost 300,000 miles on it since a major rebuild. Did 105,000 mile on a quickie rebuild before that, on an engine that came out of a burned MG Midget wreck. Admittedly this engine is now pretty tired, but it still goes OK. I changed the oil and filter religiously at 5k miles, with nary a peep out of this... MORE

My 2 cents worth. I don't think there is a exact reading, but I think 120-160 is normal. A compression test is more of a overall test and should be done twice. The first time, just pull the plugs and do it. The second time, squirt some oil in each cylinder and do the test again. The results will show condition and any problems, then there are leakdown test, etc. The readings should be within 10 percent for high and low. If there are any problems, like yours of cylinder 3 & 4 being low, the oil test will... MORE