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When the tip of my key broke off and got left behind in the cylinder of my 78 Midget, I learned that getting it dissected and fixed by a locksmith would cost roughly the same (or more) as a whole new assembly at Moss, so I went for the new set. Now I have two original brand-new keys and a reliable cylinder. Pulling the steering column to access and replace the unit was fairly simple. There are maybe 6 to 8 bolts that hold the whole thing together. If I did it, I suspect you can too. Steve www.1978mgmidget.com... MORE
Nigel, I do not know the exact shipping costs but have heard in the neighborhood o f about US $1,000.00 Today in the SF bay area alone there are six 72 - 76 Midgets advertised for less than $1,000. A couple of those complete and very near running conditi on. One 73 body, less engine, for $200.00 not sure of the body condition. Needless to say the local economy is not that great and it's a buyers marke t at the moment, and the dollar is at a near all time low compared to the p ound. Don "Don... MORE
Its very true! I started out with a '78 1500. Now I have my 71' Sprite. I keep finding myself looking at pictures of a MK II. Those clean lines around the windscreen without quarter lights, those deep door pockets and lovely round top seats........And then people talk of the smoothness of the 1098 engine....I can feal the addiction growing! Of course I would really like a frogeye, but that is for a later stage in my regression! Guy "Guy Weller" 29850... MORE
David Good post, I agree. Would be such a shame to reshell a '62 Sprite into a later bodyshell, losin =3D=0D g many of the features that made those Sprites distinctive. But I accept one =3D=0D has too be reasonable about these things, and many of use don't have bottomless =3D=0D pits of money to sink into our hobbies. I also tend to agree regarding the MKII Sprite and MKI Midget being one of =3D=0D the 'nicest' versions. I always felt that the later MKIII Midgets MKIV Spri =3D=0D tes were the best but I'm coming round to the... MORE
Well looked at it,then looked again the next week,and well l wanted them wheels for my 67 sprite,so l got it a 78 1500 there will be other bits on it l can use for my car, but will have a good engine and box for sale in a few weeks time 67000 miles from new, dam shame realy to break it but doors etc will fit mine,one wing has a bit of rot but the other side is fine,bumpers are the same very good,and yes before you moan at me l should restore it but doing this 67... MORE
As far as the MGB link, yeah, I just am interested in that color scheme. A s far as a concours (or whatever they call it) restoration, for this particular MG, I am more interested in making a solid, fun, reliable car. I'll probably drive it for a few years, and give it to my daughter when she's 16. As for me, I'll have a little roadster with a great big engine. Don't know what yet though. "TJ Tryon, Jr." 29807... MORE
Jens...can't believe you're coincidental timing in asking about paint color "on list" at this particular time...still laughing! :):) While beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I agree. I had a buddy in high school (Ted Owens) who had an MGA '60 1600 in Iris Blue with wire wheels and the "thin" whitewalls which were the rage at the time. VERY pretty car. Retired Navy fighter jock. A4's, Vietnam vet. Cool guy. Bet he still owns/drives this MGA!! It's still Iris Blue. And Nigel my friend...the car is as original as it can be, really. At least it... MORE
Hey group. I think its time to pass my beloved 62 midget onto someone else. But only after Don May gets first refusal!... I'm not in a panic to move it, but i would like to see it go to a good home. Its photos are in the album section under 62 midget... its an original 948 side curtain model with a very new (under two weeks) rebuilt head. it has very nice seats, good dash, everything works, including the windshiled squirters. the hand brake needs adjustment and it could do with a brake bleeding or the very least... MORE
In my junkyard explorations today I came across an Austin car that I had never seen before. It was rear drive hardtop coupe, had a 948 in the cab with a single downdraft carb. Drum brakes all round, most of the markings and nameplates were missing. It looked like an Austin Amercia or Morris 1100, but was rear drive. (c. 1964?) It had a faded rear deck lid that appeared to be A40. I was interested in the rear ratio.... hmmmm? "riley_datsun" 29772... MORE
The ex Cap'n wrote...."Wrynose" You people "over there" have got the coole st names for things! :) My favourite in the Lake district was the "Hardknot" pass. Single track with passing points. Longish straights and a few hairpins. I s eem to remember it finishes with cattle grids and a chicane though a farmya rd type environs, - solid granite walls. I thought I was saving petrol by trying to coast down the mountain, but wh en the brakes overheated and I had no engine braking I found out how hard t he granite walls of the barn were.... MORE
G'day all And sorry Nigel - BRG was a standard colour for Bugeyes in Australia. The cars assembled here came in as CKD (Completely Knocked Down) and painted in grey primer. They were painted here in four standard colours, after four European national racing colours: Rhiems Blue (France) Monza Red (Italy) Nurburg White (Germany), and British Racing Green (duh). The Australian ID plates on the firewall were stamped with the car model, body number, engine number and colour. We have quite a few on the Register that were (and many still are) British Racing Green. Sometimes shortened on the... MORE
Jim- Trust me on this one. Climb into the engine bay. You will be able to reach it. Very easy with the engine out. I have five teenagers. You are welcome to as many as you want. No exchanges and no returns. Paul '73 RWA "dfwip" 29682... MORE
Bob- I agree with all you say. But..... It IS leaking now, even if only a little. The engine is out. Why not fix it so it won't leak at all? At least that is my thought. Am I assuming the aftermarket seals are better than they actually are? I have a friend who is selling me the MiniMania kit for a very good price. Would really like to know if it is any good, or am I going to make a tolerable situation bad? Riverside kit only works with their adaptor plate. I am using Paul A's 5... MORE
Jim, I just did this yesterday for the third time in a month. No big deal. I have a thick blanket I lay across the engine, my son lays on top of the blanket and can reach down to the bottom of the inner well. Need to be VERY careful what you lay on. Not a big deal. Cannot get to it from the inside of the car. By the way.....I'm not responsible for any injuries sustained by following the above methodology. Paul '73 RWA "dfwip" 29672... MORE
Paul... No, no. Don't misunderstand. My ONLY point here is that you might want to educate yourself to the extent possible by speaking to more of an expert in these matters before you make a decision as we're talking a matter of "gray" here. The end decision is of course your's which is as it should be, as we are talking your time, talents, money and YOUR car! :) This is exactly why you should speak to Paul A about this before you go further. There may be more to this than initially meets the eye (which would not... MORE
Engine is out and I'm waiting on the 5 speed kit. Noticed a bit of seepage around rear of crank. Not bad at all. Just a little. Thinking this might me a good time to install a rear seal. Some have told me that if the seepage is small, DON'T TOUCH IT! Others have said to ALWAYS install a rear seal. What do y'all think? What seal kit should I use if I install one? Any tricks or things to watch??? Thanks much. Paul '73 RWA (almost 5 speed) "dfwip" 29616... MORE
Just "semantics", JC Just picked up your post....one of the only caveats to this rule might be thoughtful consideration as to replacing clutch parts any time the engine is pulled. I am sure there must be others but this would be too much work at this point! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29643... MORE
I purchased from Moss2 adaptor #235-875. In taking off the old canister, I found the adapter sits real close to the generator. the old canistor mounted on a small mount that in turn attaches to the engine block. the sole purpose of this appears to be to raise the oem canistor oil filter high enough to clear the frame that runs below that side of the engine. if I remove the threaded studs that this mount attaches to the engine block, can I mount the adaptor directly to the engine block with the supplied allen head studs? I think... MORE
Sure, Jim C., I understand. You're playing it conservatively on the safe side. I would, too, unless that used press. plate was basically new. Using used parts in circumstances wherein the engine must be pulled to replace same "in the event" is a bit of an "iffy" situation unless for whatever reason you don't mind putting yourself in this sort of situation. Me? I'd go with a new plate already modified by Rivergate. You don't want any problems and Rivergate doesn't want you to have any (with their kit), nor would Paul, were it his kit. #1, both are... MORE
G'day Terry I think Trevor could be on to the problem. It sounds like you are fitting the clips upside down. There is no way the two "ears" should hit the bodywork - they will face out from the body at about 45 degrees. The flat side of the clip should be flush with the body. If you are fitting them upside down, a small washer will not help - the trim will be loose after it is fitted. And I certainly would not suggest sliding the trim on - you are guaranteed to scatch the paint. The scratch... MORE
Well, Chuck... This is a multi-faceted, multi-dimensional, multi-interest normal human being bugeye group!!! Sorta. :) The tilt-front bonnet will tend to go too far forward. A simple fabricated cable/ bungee cord system within the engine compartment fastened to the inside of the bonnet in appropirate places will prevent going too far forward "over-center". Easily made up by your good self...BTDT. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29524... MORE
I can understand using it for the engine bay, but there aren't that many parts of the interior where the paint is exposed. However, spraying the interior cockpit will give you some practice using the paint before doing the engine bay etc. I'm assuming that this is not the first time you've refurbished/restored a car? Trevor BTW: I sent you a separate email ... I'm in Louisville KY. "Trevor Jessie" 29490... MORE
Having now extracted the engine from the car I have found its Engine number, whihc is FP4615F, I think this is a proper midget engine. But its defieantly a pinky metalic red. Dad says that this colour indicates a factory recon unit, I thought these were Gold, but aparently that's austin engines, truimph painted thier recon motors a pinky metalic red.I might re-paint it black Stewart "Ford Prefect" 29472... MORE
Hi, Jim C. Comments..Rivergate clutch set-up... Running a Cooper S cammed 1293 with cam advanced 4 degrees for Metro inlet timing giving very torquey low and mid-range punch. No clutch problems in 6,000 miles. Ran Judson Supercharged (both 4 & 6 psi "wheels") stock 1275 for about 5,000 miles before realizing blower not compatible (as is) with engine size. Never had a problem with the Rivergate clutch during this time which included some pretty rouch acceleration runs in 3rd & 4th up steep grades. No clutch problems. I find the Rivergate clutch set-up to be more positive in "engagement"... MORE
Jim- Do not take my comments as anything other than a personal opinion based on my research. I did talk with a couple people who have converted their Rivergate set-up to "all Datsun" components, but also contacted several who were delighted with the set-up, as is. EVERYONE with the Rivergate was pleased. I honestly don't think you can go wrong with either one. I actually like Rivergates crank seal the best, and may well have gone the Rivergate route if delivery was not an issue. With respect to the Rivergate clutch setup, if you look at a Midget pressure... MORE
