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I had a lister a few months back as me about if I could help them get a bonnet/hood (the metal thing that covers the engine) for a non-Bugeye Sprite. I have forgotten that listers name. If you are in need of a bonnet still, contact me. So I will know who you are, I had mentioned a possible source, if you can tell me who that source was, I will know it is you. I know many folks out there are needing a bonnet minus the rust along the front of the nose. If you need one, send... MORE
Dear List, I have been offered an MG Midget but do not have much data except for few chassis, engine and model numbers. Can someone shed some light on this? year, specs or whatever you can add will be appreciated! The chassis number is MAA 002909, Engine S1104341-A, Model (body?) BMG12. Cheers Martin "Martin Aubert" 26659... MORE
Ed You do make me smile and that has to be a good thing :o) I took your advice and enlisted the help of a next door neighbour, and we tackled it together. Me holding the steering rack down and heating the nut and him whacking the locknut with a cold chisel. It still took about 20 mins of heating before it decided to move! The locknut on the other side was so seized solid, it decided to break in half before it would turn! No matter same result - both locknuts off an undamaged TRE's and tie rods.... MORE
I wrote the following post thinking about rostyles, but after I looked at the original post I realized you are asking about early steel wheels. Oh well, some of it is still pertinent, so here it is: I've had success using a combination of chemical stripper and sand blasting. I've used the enviro-friendly stripper (letting it sit for three hours) then I hosed off the residue and the remaining paint blasted off quickly at fairly low pressure. I agree that removing the tire it the smart thing to do. Then self etching primer, then a light coat of medium... MORE
If you leave the bodies natural they will look horrid within a year, especially the rears. Frost or Eastwood do what amounts to a metal varnish i.e. a clear coating or you could paint them in aluminium paint or a light coating of 'clear' waxoyl. As the rears are rarely seen I'd be tempted to paint them. The fronts will fair better in the relatively dry anvironment of the engine bay but very minimum I'd wipe them over with oil every so often. "Jeremy Cogman" 26635... MORE
They are so cheap and last so long (I've done about 150k miles in my Sprite and replaced four I think, two of those recently) that it's really not worth getting excited about. BMW owners spend more on one pollen filter than you will on track rod ends if you keep the car for ever "Jeremy Cogman" 26634... MORE
Hi guys I noticed that the replacement Track Rod Ends are sealed units and do not have the grease nipple of the original ones. Is this a good/bad thing? Are the replacement ones, better or worse than the OE ones? Comments? tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26626... MORE
Nigel... I have used the "new" sealed tie rod ends for many moons now. On my PO'd Vizardized '74 I had to replace them at approx. 50K miles and this was a car lowered with sport springs, 5.5" wheels with 60 series and KYB Gas Adjust shocks, 3/4" roll bar...very stiff set-up so the sealed TR ends I got from Sports & Classics I'd have to rate as pretty good. Anyone know any reason why the sealed ends couldn't be tapped for a regular grease fitting? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26627... MORE
Alan Really helpful advice, thank you. I think what I'll do is, order up some TRE's and then take your advice and =3D=0D grind off parallels on the existing TRE's, that should give me something to lock =3D=0D in the vice while I attack the locknut. Its interesting that Moss do not list the tie rod's as being available, min =3D=0D d you, they don't list the locknut's as being available either, except in the Spri =3D=0D te Mk1 Midget MkII brochure - interesting. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26610... MORE
Jeremy Yep, correct. Locknut won't move and neither will the tie rod end. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26608... MORE
Inspect the rod bearings closely and make sure you didn't overlap one...BTDT. RH ...those idiots at the NRA, not only do they think the second amendment gives them the right to own guns, they think the first amendment gives them the right to free speech!...unknown. rbhouston@... 26613... MORE
Nigel, et al Nut splitters do work , if you don't buy cheap ones , low cost is good - ch eap is not. Same with all tools really. When replacing track rod ends etc there's nothing wrong with using a small amount of anti seize grease or LM (Low Melting temp.) (I like LM10 )I also use WD40 if the thread is trapped at each end and is virtually air tight so the WD40 doesn't evaporate. It's the mechanical stretching of the threads that lock parts together. An excellent article by a BMW owner association member ( the... MORE
Nigel, When being brutal with the steering rods / arms make sure you don't bend th em. Another effective way of making the track rod end flats useful is to grind the flats parallel and obviously closer together to be a good fit in a good open ended spanner. You should be changing them as a matter of course any way at only =A36:50 or each, so don't be afraid of damaging the TR ends per se. Alan Aside Track rod ends and steering arms (Thomson steering joints - trade name), Mo re items made on the Leamington site... MORE
Hey, I could be reading this wrong but I think this job is a three wrench/vise thing. You must hold the tie rod in the vise - a wrench on the tie rod end and then a wrench to break free the lock nut. The lock nut locks the end not the rod. Get what I mean? Jon That's how I do it anyway. I've got this far without a nut splitter, I think I'll persevere without one, and hold it back as a last resort. Thanks again for the advice. Nigel "Jon Paschke" 26614... MORE
Ed Not quite ready to call it the crank, but almost. The whole thing turned way too easy before I took it apart. I think I'll run a quick check and if I get it as straight I'll send the crank to the shop and have them take a look for a second opinion. Just an FYI, 1500 page for torque values on your site doesn't work. Thanks for the advice. Steve Quandt Steve Quandt 26606... MORE
I assume the track rod end (TRE) is still on the tie rod as well. If so then just place the TRE back into the steering arm and that will hold the tie rod solid. Failing the above don't grind the nut fully off. Cut a slot in the nut as close as you dare to the thread, maybe several, then use a cold chisel to open the nut up i.e point the cold chisel along a cord not a radius. "Jeremy Cogman" 26588... MORE
There's a little flat on the rod you can put a wrench on. It probably won't work. Use a pipe wrench on the tie rod end. Maybe you'll have to replace the tie rod end, maybe not. "Jeffrey Holmes" 26586... MORE
Hi guys Ok, I give in, how do you get that lock nut off tie rod? I've tried everything, I just cannot get a decent enough grip on the tie rod, to be able to exert enough pressure to get the lock nut to move. Any and all suggestions welcome. tia Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26584... MORE
Cap'n Bob, My you do go on. I can't process all of what you sent but I will speak to part of it. As the father of two boys (21 and 15)I know (first hand empirical) that the parents of children within 5-10 years of mine either way are the worst in a long time. This is my generation and they, as a group, suck! The catalog of selfishiness, over-indulgence in all areas, horrific judgement and evasion of adult responsibilities of all kinds is truly mind-blowing. All the silliness of the 60's and 70's was pounded into the wits... MORE
there are supposed to be some threaded stud-plate things as well, which should help hold the strips more firmly (can't remember if there's one at each end of each strip, or just one per strip) Check your parts manual for details. David "David Jacobs" 26565... MORE
Well Martyn.... the off-center butterflies seems to have been the culprit and spare set of carbs. notwithstanding, Dave Jacobs suggestion certainly seems to have merit should you wish to straighten out the Vizardized ones and continue to run them. The VP3 is about as far as you can go and still have a decent street driver, and this with respect to a 1275, wherein the idle is most definitley "lopey" at 1000rpm. This will be even more more so on the smaller bore 1098....IOW, the rpm at idle 1000rpm) WILL vary....it's expected (I sort of like that "lopey" sound... MORE
Well, I took the carbs off and found that when the machine shop had bored the bodies for oversize shafts they did a very poor job. The center of the bore was shift a few thou up which caused the butterfly not to seal on the bottom. That job was done many years ago. Fortunately I have a another set of carbs that I can use. The engine no can be made to idle just about where I want it although with the cam (VP3 in a 1098) it doesn't like low idle speeds, greater than 900 is good.... MORE
Roger Thanks for taking the time to reply. I got it in the end, once I'd got it clear in my mind what I needed to do. Not really knowing how the bearings and oil seals actually sat inside the hub was my main problem. Once I understood how it all fitted together and the sequence in taking it apart ie one bearing came out one end and the other bearing the other end I was able to position the drift in the right place and gave it a sharp thwack and out it popped! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26517... MORE
I've always used Molybdinum (Moly) Grease (Duckhams LBM10, I think, without looking at the tin, and I have NEVER had problems with bearing or with bolts seizing, ever. R. "Roger Stinson" 26515... MORE
Hi guys, Many thanks to you all (including Ed) ; ) who helped with the bearing removal from the front hub. Armed with your advice I was able to pop the bearing and oil seal out this morning no problem at all. Now I just have to figure out what grease to put in it . . . Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26496... MORE
