MAIN
Engine (internal)
Previous Page | Next Page
Duncan I used it on my engine but had all the parts run through a large parts washer at a NAPA shop owned by someone I know before I did it. The key is to get all the parts CLEAN! Steve Quandt "Steve Quandt" 31790... MORE
Listers - Does anyone know if it's possible to fit an early Midget dash into a 1500 Midget (75), my current dash is beyound repair and I really like the early flat dashs with the curvy lower edge? Will probably make one myself, but thought it might save time, if I could find one that is? What were the early dashes made from? Also is it possible to re-calibrate the existing Midget tach to use with a V8 engine? Later Rick B "Rick Bender" 31786... MORE
Stewart, Thanks for the ideas, that's the sort of easy stuff I was hopeing for. I'll try the duct tape choke and check for piston movement and report back. "cfisher1a" 31775... MORE
Hi, Curt... Pure race Huffaker carbs are modified to be "fixed" rather than "variable" venturi...IOW, the air valves are held fully open and machined to form the top of the venturi (or "fixed choke"..which is not to be confused with "choking" for mixture enrichment when cold). So, the butterfly works but not the air valve. Thus, to start "cold", you need to cut off part of the air supply to artificially enrichen the mixture. The fellow lister who mentioned the "duct tape" is "the man"!! Huffaker's pure race engine is usually fitted with "crankfire" ignition. Whether the advance is... MORE
This might sound is bit odd.. try taping over 3/4 ish of both ram pipe intakes with gaffer (duct) tape. you might need to cover more than 3/4. This should do the same as the choke, once it is running and has gotten a bit warm you should be able to take it off One other thing, are the pistons in the carbs moving? this can sometimes cause similar to what you are experiencing Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31770... MORE
I hope someone can give me some advice on this. Drivers school and race second weekend in June and I can't get the bloody running. I have a highly tuned (national level) race bugeye from the 70's era. Don't know the compression ratio, but probably pretty high, 12 to 1 at least. 4,000 to 7,000 rpm cam. 30 deg. advance. 110 octane race gas. champion n59g spark plugs. Electronic ignition box. No choke, just ram air intakes modifed hs2 carbs. Had it to a local brit car guru last fall and he tuned the carbs and set it up... MORE
I have recently bought a 1965 Mark 2 Midget which has been converted to negative earth (for a radio I have removed from the car) by the previous owner, but I dont know when. Shortly after I got the car the tacho started reading approximately half the actual engine revs and shortly after that it ceased to function altogether. Could this be a symptom of the tacho not being repolarised? I have seen the description of changing battery polarity in the web site and my tacho does not seem to have had the white wire loop at the back... MORE
I have been looking into using POR-15 for my engine underside etc. It looks to be good stuff. Anybody have any experience with this stuff Thanks Thanks and Regards Duncan Duncan Sinclair Director of Aquisitions Tel: 713-582-3422 duncan@... "Duncan Sinclair" 31763... MORE
Hi guys! I need some help here. I have a problem with my newly installed 1275 engine, what happens is that when the car is warming up with the choke out everything is normal - just the normal amount of smoke from the exhaust. But when the engine is getting warmer and the choke is pushed gradualy back it starts smoking clouds og grey smoke especially when i give it throttle, it only lasts for a short while then its back to normal. Could this be condensation causing it? Cheers Jens Jens P. Maudal jens.maudal@... Greetings from "BottomsUp Brewery"... MORE
Hi David and Kay Just found my Lindsay Porter book on Midget and Sprite. The Serial number ( chassis #) will be on a plate on the left side of the engine compartment under the air cleaner. This will show you what year it is. The 61 will have a number between GAN1 101 and GAN1 16183. A number higher than that starting with GAN2 16184 will be a 62/63 and will go up to GAN2 25767. Hope this helps. Hope you picked it up by now. Enjoy Ian "mcalpine" 31742... MORE
Hi Ryan The heat shields are available new, I've just bought one for my car from my local MG spares supplier, Beech Hill garage! It's a pain to fit though, a real juggling act with the carbs.....why oh why are the carbs held on with nuts and bolts rather than having studs like an A series! Also it could be the petrol ageing the diaphragm, make you sure you buy top quality ones from a good supplier like Moss. I had three fuel Pumps go on my Beetle (bloody thing!) in 18 months due to this. James "James" 31721... MORE
Hi, Im looking at putting twin 40s on the midget, but im not overly familiar with webers or dellortos personally so was wondering what the pros / cons of each were. Theyre not going onto a stock engine btw, thats in the process of having its components lightened and balanced, the stock cam is going and the head is polished ported with larger inlet valves. Twin 40's seemed like a reasonable choice all things considered. Thanks, Neil 75 1500. "Neil Rouse" 31716... MORE
On my way back from dropping my kids off at school this morning, I met a guy with a gorgeous 1969 TR6. Turns out his lower back problems are preventing him from fully enjoying the car so he wants to sell it. It's immaculate inside and out AND for those of you who'd ever dreamed of a Sunbeam Tiger or a TR8, it has a professionally installed 350 Chevy engine and auto trans AND a Corvette rear end. The car is a sleeper and looks complete stock until you open the bonnet or start the engine. Anyone interested in... MORE
This car is both my love and my worst enemy. '76 Midget, single ZS All cylinders firing, all new plugs this afternoon. She idles fine and smooth, but as soon as i hit the road she revs fine UNTIL about 2800rpm, same spot every time, the rev nearly stops. No matter how far i push the accelerator, it takes nearly 30 seconds to rev from 2800 to 3200, and that makes for a lousey drive. The manual choke is wide open. It looks to be getting enough fuel in that the fuel filter and the screen in the fuel... MORE
hmm, yes and no. The prototype 6R4 used a cut 'n' shut Rover V8, but the proper cars used a specially designed V6 which was a totally different engine. David "David Jacobs" 31651... MORE
The 6R4 engine was developed from the Rover V8, in turn developed from the 215CID all alloy Buick V8. it was basically a V8 block with 2 cyls lopped off the end. The 6R4 engine ended it's life after being bored out and having two dirty great turbos bolted on in the back of the Jaguar XJ220. Not a bad end for an engine GM threw in the bin. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31642... MORE
I am not being funny or rude, but have you considered a 1275 powered & chrome bumpered vehicle ? As you seem keen on competition, an early car is always going to be faster, handle better & more powerful. Do not get me wrong I do not have grudge against rb cars, its just more bang for you buck RB cars are fine for the road, but not for comp. As you would know if you have watched state/national level competion. Regards Beckers 1330 "beckers" 31587... MORE
Or "keep it in the family" and fit an MG Metro 6R4 powertrain. 2996 cc V6 engine Mid engine, rear wheel drive giving 0 to 60 mph in 2.6 seconds. Developed in 1985 so almost contemporary with the last of the Midgets. Not much even 20 years later can match that acceleration! Guy "Guy Weller" 31616... MORE
And I thought 1600 was the absolute maximum an A-Series block could be taken out to.. (only if you have the rights one IIRC) Stewart "Ford Prefect" 31611... MORE
I did consider it and even spent time looking for a decent car to buy but all the ones i looked at werent up to it unfortunately. ( i was very disapointed at what was on offer to be honest, and i was looking at paying pretty much top money) The thing is, i've owned the 1500 for a long time which makes it harder to part with. (i'll be the first to admit this is among the worst reasons i know of for keeping a car) although a bonus is that at least i know that the car... MORE
I finally got time to go a little further into my stuck in first sprite problem. I still would like to drive it around while I save up for the 5speed conversion. Which by the way seems to be better for the "fabricatingly challenged" than are the other options, although that big ole Toyota dual overhead cam job looks like fun. I removed the Gaiter retaining plate, Gaiter and draught excluder (sheesh, looked like the shifter housing and rubber do dad to me.) I think some parts are missing. Like the thrust button and spring. Looking down into the... MORE
Robert, I seem to remember that Honda was experimenting with oval pistons back in the '80s, was that on bikes or in Formula 1? Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 31615... MORE
I guess what I will do, until I can find a goo dused one, is to just bypass the valve. I will plug the hose going from the valve to the heater, and use s fitting to connect to hose from the engine to the carburator thermostat(?). That way the system shoudl work just as if the heater valve was closed. I think... "Michael" 31581... MORE
Why stop there, lets go all the way. There were several conversions in the '80s (I think Renault???) where they set up an unlimited rally car where they hopped up the front engine, front wheel drive, then built an identical engine/tranny drive and put it in the rear. Just connected the throttles and the shift linkage and clutches together. They locked the steering in the rear and presto. a 500 or 600 HP rocket ship 4 wheel drive rally car. And if you blew an engine, you could still keep on driving!!!!! So all we have to do is... MORE
"...seal it off completely..." This will detract from the engine's ability to cool itself uniformly. Better to come up with a fitting which will allow flow from rear of engine back to water pump via "normal" means and leave the heater out of the equation altogether. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31588... MORE
