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Hi all- Well, I'm now running the main harness. REALLY need help with layout. Car is 1973 US model. I have good diagram. What is need to see is how the factory physically laid out the harness in the engine compartment. Wish I would have taken pictures...... Anyway, any ya'll that have pictures that would help, I would be forever in your debt. Thanks. Paul "dfwip" 27512... MORE
Don First make sure that your release bearing is not being held on, leaving the clutch partially disengaged. This could be a sticky throw out arm or a problem in the slave / master cyl inder. Usually the problem is found at the clutch end. If its not this then the driven plate friction material could have worn too thin OR it has over heated due to slipping - this will result in a shiny glazed finish of the friction material. Will work ok until the engine torque required to move the vehicle (accelerating /going up hill, or with... MORE
Don, Hope it's not rude to interrupt. I have exactly the same situation in my Midge and have decided on a new clutch/throwout assembly. The clutch works fine under moderate acceleration but whenever I put my foot into it is slips badly in any gear. It also seems to get worse the longer I have the car out. Without taking the car apart I have narrowed it to two possiblities. Oil leakage or old springs. I used the original clutch from my $500 dollar buy when I installed the engine. I am reliably informed that with age they will... MORE
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Will let you know what I find when I drop the engine. . . . When the weather permits . . . Don "Don May" 27504... MORE
Don... Usually, to the average owner, having to pull a perfectly good motor to replace a malfunctioning clutch is a PITA. Unless you are a "Clarici", it is s time consuming and/or labor/money consuming. Unless your clutch parts are basically new, I suggest you replace ALL while you are "in there" as considering the foregoing, clutch parts are cheap. Nothing like replacing a disc today, and having to go through the whole process again to replace a pressure plate or worn T/O bearing 6 mos down the road. Of course, if there is contamination within the bell housing, clutch... MORE
While contemplating various 5 speed conversions, engine mods etc etc I had fall into my lap today a complete 87 Toyota Corolla GTS, that's the 1600cc twin cam and 5 speed RWD car . I did find one web site http://www.team.net/www/mg/tech/midget/engswapa.html that describes the transplant of a 4T motor, which is very similar but not of a 4A swap .. Anyone with any first hand experience and or URLs of this swap . ? Oh and for the purists out there, if a 5 speed Japanese transmission is an acceptable improvement how can the whole doggoned drive line not... MORE
Chris That 'vision in green' looks far too nice for you, I thought you were looking for one that needed a little work? ;) Seriously though it looks good, nice straight body, nice bright shiny paintwork, sills painted the correct colour black this time, wire wheels look in good condition, useful extras - boot rack and roll over bar and most importantly it looks like it been cared for and looked after. I'd question the total mileage of 14,000 miles, or is that the mileage on the new unleaded reconditioned engine? The seller is also throwing in a new... MORE
Thanks David that info confirms what I was thinking on the data I could fin d. Nigel=E2=80=99s link let me compare part numbers Duncan _____ From: davidj@... [mailto: davidj@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 2:42 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [midgetsprite] Re: SU Question the AUD328 is a 'ventilated' type ie has the angled ports coming off the side to connect to the crankcase ventilation system and also has a bias sprung needle (no centering required). The other two are non-ventilated and use the original style needle. I'm not sure of the detail differences between AUD136 and AUD266,... MORE
Don... With a working PCV system, the crankcase "sucks" to one extent or the other! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27457... MORE
the AUD328 is a 'ventilated' type ie has the angled ports coming off the side to connect to the crankcase ventilation system and also has a bias sprung needle (no centering required). The other two are non-ventilated and use the original style needle. I'm not sure of the detail differences between AUD136 and AUD266, but I'm pretty sure they will be functionally interchangeable.(Incidentally, for a given size of SU, the jets will be the same diameter across the whole range) Regards David 27446... MORE
Duncan I'm not really sure either, but I think it's by 'application' ie what car they were fitted to. eg AUD136 was fitted to the Midget MkII, 1098, 1964 and AH Sprite MKIII 1963/4 and MKIII, 1968/9 Needle sizes were RICH H6, STD AN, Weak GG Blue Spring Colour AUD266 was fitted to the Midget MkIII, 1275 USA spec 1968 Needle sizes were STD AN, Blue Spring AUD328 was fitted to the Midget MKIII, 1275 USA spec, 1968/9 Needle sizes were STD AAC, Blue Spring From what I can tell all the HS2 throttle sizes were 1/1/4. All info... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2003 5:46 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: SU Question Duncan I'm not really sure either, but I think it's by 'application' ie what car they were fitted to. eg AUD136 was fitted to the Midget MkII, 1098, 1964 and AH Sprite MKIII 1963/4 and MKIII, 1968/9 Needle sizes were RICH H6, STD AN, Weak GG Blue Spring Colour AUD266 was fitted to the Midget MkIII, 1275 USA spec 1968 Needle sizes were STD AN, Blue Spring AUD328 was fitted to the Midget MKIII, 1275 USA spec, 1968/9 Needle sizes... MORE
David Yes, as far as I know it's there still for sale. I'd ring them up and ask them though before I made a trip down there to see =3D=0D it, if i was seriously interested. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27426... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Before I install the wrong spark plugs and poke a hole in the top of a piston or two, I thought I better get some professional help from the group. I've installed the Ignitor and a 40K coil, now I don't know what range plug to install. I'm equally unsure about the plug wires. The other up-grades to this engine are a Kent 266 cam, bored 20 over and fully balanced with an aluminum flywheel. What combination of spark plugs and wires would be best suited to this engine. TIA Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 27424... MORE
Hello all, I'm sure someone out there can help, and would greatly appreciate any or all feedback regarding this one. The engine is turning, but not starting. I have a spark at the coil, and the dizzy has not been touched since last start. The coil is the ballast type with resistor, and the wires were moved, in order to address a bit of corrosion in the pedal box area, but all wires were returned to their original position. Thanks in advance for any words of advice regarding a fix. Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 27356... MORE
I can't help just jumping in here. I am also from the Rat Fink generation of hot rodders. We used to solve our wheel problems (read no money for Mags) in the old days by taking the steel wheels to a guy who would cut out the centers and reverse them to get a wider stance and weld them back in. When we wanted wide wheels, he would do the reverse center trick and then cut the rim around on a lathe and add a ring of steel, what ever width we wanted to go. 1 inch, 1.5 inch... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
Got the dashboard out the other day as its getting now to that stage in the rebuild,but had forgot about all the extra holes that had been put in it over the years from the last owners,like the extrta two 2" holes and four switch holes oh well,so had a ring round no new units at presant but we can supply you with a recondioned unit,well the price was not bad so said send it,well it came today and in my mind had it fitted by tea time clocks and all,out of the box it came and back in... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Max... Tighten down the bumpers or wherever you have the lights mounted to the extent possible. Using old rubber tubing or a material of that nature, fabricate a rubber mounting gasket (shock absorber so to speak) and there you go! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27257... MORE
Max It's Oselli Engineering ( http://www.oselli.com/ ) they're in Oxford. It's where I'm going to get my engine rebuilt when I get round to it! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27250... MORE
Might seem a bit noddy.... 1. I have a +ve earth Sprite, can you jump start with a -ve earth Car? If so is it straight forward + to + and - to - ? 2. What's the name of the engine tuning house, sounds like Oliseti, or Oseti? Max "Max" 27248... MORE
While I think they are unfair to the frogeye, I have to say I can't really see the frogeye as twice the car that the later spridgets are, but it does have twice the price and so I would never actually pay for one (My frogeye was free!) actually I would say the chrome bumpered non RWA 1275 spridget i s the best all round value for money spridget. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 27233... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
