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Hi Chaps, I've got a 12G 295 stage II head with Rimflo valves on a 1098 bottom end. I need help on head gaskets, the bores have been ground out to 1150 and the head gaskets give up easily. QUESTION: Should I use copper bi-metal or composite? or is there something better? When to tourque the head down, and what settings? Any help appreciated. TIA "gerald_r_simpson" 33523... MORE


Jens.... What, pray tell, are you waiting for? Install the oil pressure limiting valve NOW and you will answer your own question! :) The answer is probably yes. And MAYBE it will also solve that puff of smoke you get out the exhaust after driving from cold a mile or so down the road? But have you changed to a fresh rubber diaphragm within the valve? And don't tell me the valve is new so you don't have to!!! :) Are you (per Guy's post) using the filtered plastic oil filler cap as well? Higher than required oil pressure... MORE


Thanx, Paul A. Didn't realize this was a "blowby" post.... must have missed a message somewhere (wouldn't be the first time, eh?:). How about that, Doug? The engine is out of the car and you have a "blowby" problem?? Fill me in....I'm all ears!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33501... MORE


OK, Doug... You indeed have the higher compression 8.9-1 motor. Thought so. And you've done a bit of good work on it already, obviously. Here again, assuming the motor has done 77k "untouched" up to this point in time, then yes....personally I would pull the pan and REPLACE all the bearings (and oil pump) as part of preventive ("downline") maintenance as seeing as the motor is already out of the car. I mean, what better opportunity? :) Your assessment of the oil pump location, etc. is correct, Doug. Easy job at this point and sure, I'd renew the front... MORE


Hi Rob & Doug, Doing all you suggest, Rob is well and good, but those are items unrelated to any blow-by problems. That was seemingly the original problem. All your suggestions do is ensure that the lubrication system is top notch. Seems like a lot of work to do and completely skirt the initial issue. My rear seal kit will work with the crankshaft just being in good condition. BUT, If bearing clearance or blowby is excessive, it's not very effective. One or the other diminishes it to the point of why bother doing it. Later, Paul A "Paul... MORE


G'day Vince Were does this yellow/brown wire start and finish. That would help determine what it is for. But I think Chris might be correct - it's the oil filter warning light. Inside the oil filter housing is a spring-loaded ball bearing. When the filter gets blocked (cos you haven't changed it for 17 years) the pressure causes the ball bearing to move against the spring thus opening a by-pass passage for the oil. On the outside of the filter housing is a spade terminal. Power runs from the ignition circuit, through the light bulb behind the red light... MORE


Vince, I have the ring-bound British Leyland shop manual 10th ed. from 1970. It covers the Sprites Mk 2 - 4 and Midgets Mk 1 - 3. There are 8 different wiring diagrams covering the various U.S. and Brit versions over the years. On the two diagrams that most likely were for your car, I didn't see any YN anywhere - or on any of the others either, in case somehow you've got a newer wiring harness. FWIW, which ain't much, but thought I'd let you know at least. Hamondale "hamondale" 33482... MORE


Colin, I have a friend that races 210s in SCCA and I asked him about the transmission and reliability issues with it. The only comment was that the shift fork that was secured by a roll pin could be a problem. That was solved by using a bolt and loctite. I'm not exactly sure how much power he's making with the 210 engine but it's estimated to be 100 to 120 hp. He told me that the transmission was capable of handling 150 hp. I did not have to do any modifications to the heater box although some grinding... MORE


G'day all Hopefully the last couple of questions before we dicide on which 5-speed kit to use. Whilst it seems everyone says "no modifications to the car are necessary", the Morriservice instructions state: "Underneath the heater box is a beam that needs to be altered some. Typically it needs to be moved up and back about 3/4 inch. Pounding it up and back with a hammer is the usual way." Well, if you ever tried to undo that damage, you would think that it was a modification. I questioned Paul A on this, and he replied: "This mod under... MORE


Hi David, This is the type of rubber in o-rings needed for brake fluid applications: Ethylen propylene rubber (EPDM) Likely what you got was a butyl type. That won't resist brake fluid. Try going to a place that does air/oil cylinder servicing or an o-ring house. They're in big cities. Try the yellow pages. Might be a minimum sale problem or they may give it to you to get rid of you!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33455... MORE


Hi, Colin.... The early Rivergate kits required the body mod you speak of. Today's Rivergate kit does not. No modification was required to my current BE to drop in the Rivergate engine/Datsun 5 speed "combo" which took the place of the stock 1098/ribcase gearbox the car came with. As I understand it..... the Rivergate clutch disc is a Datsun unit modified to match the stock (or upgraded?) Spridget Borg & Beck pressure plates. As I understand it.... the gearboxes used and rebuilt/sold commercially by Rivergate are those sourced from Datsun 210 TRUCKS. Not sure of their torque or HP... MORE


Hi David, Likely that o-ring won't survive brake fluid. Most likely it will swell and get soft and fail. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33452... MORE


'73 Spridget? Should be (stock) a 3.9, David. Good luck in your search for the O-ring and copper washer you need, BTW. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33432... MORE


The 5.38:1 was found in only a few stateside PU/Van cars. They were usually 4.55:1. Some Early Series II Morris cars with the 803cc engine had the 5.38:1 dif Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 33412... MORE


That's the foolproof but difficult way; the easy way is to look for the stamped markings - either the ratio itself or the part number. I think this is on the outside of the casing for the diff assembly. The crownwheel (ring gear) and pinion sets are also marked with their own part number :- ATA 7326 and BTA 550 are the 4.2 diffs from early and late cars respectively. ATA 7266 and BTA 539 are the respective CWP sets BTA 1222 is the 3.9 diff, BTA1223 is the 3.9 CWP BTA 551 is the 3.7 diff from later... MORE


Subject: Re: ? on Master Cyl piston The black coating is indeed black oxide. It is not any form of paint. We call it Chemical blacking. (or kemmy blacking - in conversation) Can be done as a Hot or Cold process. - hot is better for durability. First done on gun barrels I believe. You can buy the cold process as a kit. It only protects against surface rust when oiled, but it does help prevent deep rusting. it does provide a harder durable surface. It is also used to make steel items look pretty !! Try not to... MORE


Jens...suggestion? Go out and purchase a simple Facet solid state electric fuel pump with it's own "incoming" filter. You want the low pressure one, around 3-4psi. Cut out a piece of rubber gasket to place between the pump/body and install it where the stock SU pump went (according to your Haynes manual or whatever you are using) in later cars. This pump will work with SU's just fine without a pressure regulator. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33377... MORE


Second time in the same cylinder? Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33355... MORE


Fellas! I just have to tell you this, its probably old news to most of you but anyway. As you know i have been having problems lately (yet again), the symtoms were many and hard to make out. Well today the ba***rd fouled again and wouldnt run properly just like it was running on only 3 cyl. We are now 110% certain that its the petrol causing it. What happens is when the engine has reached normal temprature and i stop (with engine running) or drive very slowly the temp rise very fast (15-20F) and the engine starts fouling.... MORE


Aha! now I see the reason for the subject line! At least you won't have to worry about your feet getting cold! Seriously though, does it really need to go in so far back? If the pulley sits almost up to the steering rack like the original one, you should have a load more space to play with. Regards David "David Jacobs" 33307... MORE


David - No, the engine isn't in the correct/final placement just yet, just got excited and had to show somebody. I was thinking I was going to have to cut a radiused notch in top of the crossmember, but playing around last night I have it a little closer to finalized, I raised the motor about 1" and brought it forward (about 5-1/2") so the pulley is about 1/2" back from the steering rack. I plan to modify the oil pan to a flattened roadracing type, so the pan can be tucked up into the chassis. Hope to do... MORE


My 1275 sump pan comes down about " below the rails. I didn't have a tape measure handy for the distance to the ground, but the brochure (again for a late 1275) gives 5" but doesn't say where it's measured. David "David Jacobs" 33296... MORE


Jens, If you "kick the PCV" it will leak oil. It needs that to prevent / minimise oil leaks, particularly from the rear crankshaft "seal" Are you using a vented oil filler cap? You should be, which allows entry of air to ventilate the crankcase. If you are using a sealed filler cap it could make it pull too much oil vapour through Guy "Guy Weller" 33290... MORE


Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE


Hi In the process of rebuilding a tandem (dual) MC from early Sprite. Noticed that the pistons in these were painted/coated in black. It is wearing away on mine, some of it is fine while some is gone. I was just going to steel wool polish them smooth. What were these painted with? something not affected by hydraulic fluid. Should I just bring them down to bare metal and forget about it? Have alot of time and $$ in this with resleeve so I want to do the right thing. Mike mk2sprite@... 33286... MORE