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Hi Everyone I did a compression test on my 1500 motor can anyone tell me the compression reading in lbs for the 1500 motor Here are my readings I think they are low ?? Can any one tell me if have a problem or going to have problems with the diff readings between cylinders in the future CYL 1 - 130 2 - 130 3 - 115 4 - 100 Thanks again every one for all the help you have gave me Ed "nastyboy089" 32184... MORE
Rick, I took the less frustrating but more costly option when recently dealing with a leaky MC. Working through Gerard, I sent him the defective unit and he coordinated with Sierra Automotive in CA to brass resleeve it (10-yr warranty). Also had it powder-coated. It is now installed and working flawlessly. The cost was a little more than a new one as listed, but I can move on knowing that it is just as good or better than a standard MC. Good luck, Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 32183... MORE
Hi All I am going to try to rebuild the master cylinder in my 79 midget this weak end I have the rebuild kit and the hone. I have never done one of these befor. Does any one have any tips tricks or helpfull hints. I have replaced all lines both calipers all rear barke parts wheel cylinders also. And my brake pedal still gets rock hard and front brakes drag. The thing is I drive it the first time it gets hard.I let it set for about 15 mins. and the presure lets up and I can drive... MORE
G'day all Steve's tale of the welded tappet nut reminded me of this event. A few years ago I received a phone call from a Sprite owner who lived in the bush and couldn't find a local source of parts. He was after some rear wheel bearings and seals. No problem, we sent a set up to him. About a week later, he phoned to ask for a rear hub nut. He needed it as he had to cut the old one off, since the nut had been welded to the axle housing. me: "I bet it's the left... MORE
An effective fix if you cannot make a new shaft is to use some heat-shrink cable insulation to connect a new length of rod to the broken off end of the old shaft. It acts like a sort of flexible connection Guy "Guy Weller" 32149... MORE
When I got home tonight I thought that I'd introduce my daughter to a ride in an MG, after all she's been waiting for 10+ years for her Midget. This was to be in the B-GT that I recently acquired. The valves were a little noisey so we'll just take a few minutes and adjust them then go for a ride,RIGHT. After removing the valve cover I discovered that the DPO (Dear used instead other words) had WELDED the adjustment screws with no nuts inplace for the #3 cylinder. HOW CAN PEOPLE DO THAT? Frustrated with no ride. Sorry... MORE
Alan It doesn't look like it. Horler says - ...and was replaced entirely by a Triumph sourced steering rack from January 1972. The new unit required revised mounting brackets which now carried an angled split line for the clamping caps, the new brackets being black-painted steel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 32125... MORE
Yeah. Im going to have to find some other type of shoes to wear strictly for driving my Midget. My MR2 has come along way since those pics. 90% of the car has been painted now. All thats is left to paint is the aftermarket front and rear airdam and then reassembly. If you look at the third pic youll see that Iv put a driver side air vent. The first gen MR2s only had it on the right side. Iv also relocated the gas filler to the B pillar of both sides of the car and installed Datsun... MORE
Jens, Maybe..... Condensation is collecting in your silencer (muffler). Only when you have run the engine for a little while does this warm up enough for the condensed water to evaporate and produce the white cloud. Still possible that it is originating from a fault with the head gasket, allowing water to leak through into the cylinders, but not causing an obvious leak to the outside or mixing of oil and water. Have you tried a compression test? Guy "Guy Weller" 32108... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
"I think it's time for a thorough check-up here" Good for you, Jens. Exactly right my friend. There is something called a "chain" (of events) which leads sailors/boats & pilots/airplanes, drivers/cars to disaster. Wise men "move" on the "second event", drop back and take an objective "look" and go to Plan B when Plan A starts going to hell for whatever reasons. You have to be aware of a "chain" developing so you can "change the plan" to break that "chain" and "avoid" a major problem. Event #1... While a PITA, the not fully sealing head gasket can be... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Hey all. Yes, it's Graziano. Frankenstein@... is my "dummy" address for yahoo groups. Please respond directly as I'm on the digest. Midget 1500 with twin HS4s, 285 cam, .30 over, head work, 13 row oil cooler, and headers.. As I mentioned a while back, I'm having trouble with the car getting hot here in Tx, which is causing vapor lock. I'm re-installing the original 3 row staggered radiator, and standard water pump with an electric fan. 1) should I wire the fan straight to the ignition so that it runs when the key is in the "on" position whether... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
You have worn valve guide on the inlets. You can replace the seals on the valve stems, but it will only make a marginal difference. The problem is that when the throttle is shut there is a vacuum in the inlet port area, created by the piston going down and nothing to go in. The inlet valves are open, but not the carb's butterflies. Hence vacuum. This pulls oil from the rocker area thru the valve guides and most of it burns on the back of the inlet valves. Once you're underway this diminishes and you are ok. Don't... MORE
No, that is normal. In SC/CR box, the only comfortable gear is 4th! Get some hawk disc brake pads from the usual suspects (winners circle, mini mania etc) Mike "Mike Gigante" 32046... MORE
Just as a matter of interest, guys, I've got a 1500 motor out of the car at the moment and have replaced big-ends/mains/thrusts and noticed that the cam lobe which operates the mechanical fuel pump is worn right away! The motor itself has only done about 40000 miles and someone had stuck a electric pump on it, probably believing it had failed. It actually works fine in your hand, but the cam doesn't operate it! Just a thought before making a decision. Mark. "spritelychap" 32026... MORE
Hang on. This is a daily used car. 30,000miles in 3 years since full rebuild ALL new brake parts at that time Regular maintenance - like every 2 weeks I grease the kingpins, top up dashpots etc.etc. Using silicon brake fluid and flush and replace that every year - although its due another change about now. I do a 80 mile daily round trip to work, in fast, heavy traffic conditions. My life depends on this car being in good condition. I started this "thread" to see what other experience might be out there. I don't actually think that... MORE
what sort of wheel bearings does the Pug have, compared to the Sprite? (can't see that making a huge difference, though) David "David Jacobs" 31984... MORE
Hi Guy, I suspect that you have some calipers that are ready for a rebuild. These pistons don't retract as the new cars do, but merely relax. If the dust seals are stiff and totally dried out it will inhibit the relaxing of the pads from the rotors. I rebuild a lot of these calipers and sometimes it's almost impossible to get out the pistons because there's 40 years of crud and dried up rubber involved. Another possibility on the calipers is the m/cyl is holding too much pressure on the system with it's internal residual valve. A suggestion... MORE
Damien, Unless you are planning on replacing the needle roller bearings in the Hardy Spicer joints, I would not attempt too dismantle them as it will be virtually impossible to do so without damaging the bearing caps or grease seals. Clean the UJs in situ, taking care not to de-grease the bearings, and then paint the tubular part of the propshaft only. Guy "Guy Weller" 31950... MORE
?I figured I would seek the advice of those who have been there and Never seen a single DCOE setupon any 4 cylider engine with 4 inlet ports in the head!. The A_sereis normally has only one DCOE dues to a restriction in the head design that means that each pair of cylinders shares and inlet port, the only two intel ports, and thus no real point in using two DCOE carbs. The 1500 engine does not suffer this limitaion. Triumph tume and lawerence tune in the UK will sell you a twin DCOE mainfold for this engine. However... MORE
Jeff I could probably scan the pages for you, but to be honest, it's such a good book - its worth getting your own copy or at least tracking one down in the local library. Here are the details - Tuning BL's A Series Engine David Vizard Published by Haynes Motoring Group ISBN 0-85429-732-4 Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 31943... MORE
It comes from a very good book written by David Vizard. It is called "Tuning the A-series Engine." A worthwhile addition to your library Nelson 62 Sprite in progress "Nelson Wittstock" 31941... MORE
Jens Yep! Pretty much what I've been saying, not only is the twin 1.5 SU setup better on the lower rev ranges than the DCOE, they're easier to set up and maintain, but hey no one ever listens to me ;) Where a bit of extra whooomph is needed on an uprated engine, I don't dispute the DCOE's come into a class of their own, but not on unmodified engines. "amukdigiphoto" 31938... MORE
