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August 16, 2003
"Improving cooling"
1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire
system with proprietary "cleaner"
2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix
or 100% Distilled Water with can of
proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive
and a couple of drops or diswashing
liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter"
3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor"
water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a
slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good.
3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass
4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve
5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley
6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go
"aluminum" altogether
*Summer Only
^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as
"new" water bypass
The Heater and it's hoses hold "extra"
coolant. Keep them "in" the circuit all
the time. The Heater, in and of itself, is
a heat exchanger. Close the "flaps"
in the footwell to divert the heat to the
windshield so you don't "fry" in there!
Be sure you are running the later 6 bladed
plastic fan. The blades on this fan have
a different "angle of attack" (AOA) than the earlier fans and are more
efficient at
"moving air".
A Kenlowe "Pusher" can be used in conjunction for low speed cooling but
tends to block flow at higher speeds due
to postioning in front of rad.
Removal of the mechanical fan altogether
and installation of the largest electrical
"puller" you can install (Jegg's/Summit)
is as good an alternative (IMHO). Be
sure you use a manual back-up switch if
you use an thermostatic auto "on/off"
set-up (these can fail). Removal of the mech fan will give you another
couple of
HP (at speed) when the alt. or gen. isn't "loaded" by operation of the
electrical one
(low speed).
Cap'n. Bob
'60 :{)
PilotRob@... 24440
Posted on August 16, 2003 12:59 AM
Posted to category(s) Braking System | Cooling System | Cylinder Head | Electrical System | Engine (external) | Engine (internal) | Exterior | Intake System | Interior | Lubrication System | Miscellaneous | Restoration | Specifications | Technical Info | Tuning
