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Hi Rob I received it, but it was dumped into my deleted folder. Your trailer/signature might have some words in it that get caught by filters. Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 38020... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
G'day all Well this guy describes this as: 3000 MkI MkII MkIII Sprite Healey bugeye bj8 bn1/bn2 and it isn't, but isn't it wonderful? Someone must want to buy it! Can't you just see it with a small block Chevy and air suspension? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Early-Austin-complete-rolling-chassis-Vintage-part_W0QQitemZ7989430709QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Now this is an incredible item. It is a blanking plug that replaces the distributor. WOW, just think how long each tank of gas will last! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7989275125&category=72205&rd=1 avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37990... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
G'day Jim Joe's correct when he says :"A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill" However, these cars were/are designed for light weight synthetic oils. For example, often you will find overhead camshafts running directly in aluminium cylinder heads, with no intervening bearing material. Your car was designed with larger tolerances, and required a heavier grade oil. Rebuilding it doesn't change that. We use a standard mineral based oil (Penrite HPR30 which is 20W60 weight) in both road and race engines, and never have a problem with it. About 12 months ago we... MORE
A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill, no special oil for break in. For a complete rebuild to factory or better tolerances, I'd think 10W30, but you might prefer 15W50. Since the price of petroleum oil has increased so much, and Mobil 1 is $4/qt at Wal-Mart, I've started running it in everything, Sprite, Caddy, Volvo, lawn mowers, generator. Keeps things simple. An early (500 miles?) oil change might be a good idea, sort of just in case there's something unexpected left in the engine. I once did an instrumented test with... MORE
I run what the original manufacturer recommends: Castrol 20w50, in my `79 Midget. Cheesy, I know. However, I may put in either 1 or 2 quarts of Castrol Syntec 5/50, depending on the season. For example, in the Winter I run 2 quarts Syntec, also when I know I am going on a 1,000 rally or something. The lighter weight synthetic helps with starting in the Winter (especially when it gets around 10 degrees); and for long drives, I just feel more confident in the Synthetic as far as keeping things clean and maybe a bit cooler than traditional.... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
this might be a dumb question, but is there supposed to be a vacuum line between the distributor and the carb, or not? It's got the Opus distrib, and the vacuum port on both the carb and the distrib are blanked off. Is this okay, or did the DPO screw it up? I know I can run with the EGR not hooked up (NH- no emissions inspections) but could this be the source of the car running really lean? Thanks in advance, George "chuibuddy" 37823... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
there. Two years later and I should have the car back on the road by mid July. I've replaced the stock manifold/exhaust with headers and a bit larger diameter exhaust pipe. If you're interested let me know. PS: The stock manifold is available also. Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "Jim Crowder" 37790... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
Hi all, just bought a complete but knackered 1275 74 model and am starting to look at what I am going to do with it mechanically (apart from the necessary reshell) I bought book on A series tuning as I have only rebuilt MGB engines before and have decided that althogh I want to keep the car as original as possible the air filters and exhaust manifold were non standard so these will be replaced with K&N's plus a complete stainless exhaust and manifold. These parts seem to be the only non original parts on the whole car. Is... MORE
I was wondering if any one would be able to help me find a cheap bonnet for a 76 Midget? I am toying with the idea of making a bonnet with big airholes to get warm air out cold air in. But I dont want to start chopping the bonnet up on my car in case it all goes wrong. I dont really care what state the bonnet is in as long as my car would be vaguly road legal with it on. I am based in Birmingham UK. I have seen various Midgets go on Ebay for less... MORE
G'day guys Cooler air is denser, denser air picks up more fuel and carries it intot he combustion chamber, and you get a bigger bang. So a little more power. Something you would notice at speed not on a dyno. Correctly positioned, the intake will also provide a ram air effect - a mini blower. Note: more of each, fuel and air, so it's still at the correct fuel/air ratio, not "more fuel" as in running richer. I do like your idea Robert, a little lateral thinking going on there. If you set it up correctly you might actually... MORE
"Take it from the grille area...." Exactly as I've set mine up, through a 4" tube which feeds incoming air into the carb area at speed. Would do better with a cold air "box" obviously!! :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37521... MORE
How about cold air AND ram air induction? - i.e. take it from the radiator grille area like the heater trunking intake. David "David Jacobs" 37514... MORE
A great idea - except for one thing - it doesn't work. For those of you who DO want to know how hot dogs are made: I drove around for a good while to make sure everything under the hood (er, bonnet), was up to normal op temps. Air temp 82F Water temp 180F (you metric guys will have work out C, or K or Under hood temp 130F whatever for yourselves) Then made 8 runs, 2 East and 2 West with underhood air intake and 2 East and 2 West with wheel well air intake. WOT @ 2000... MORE
What works for me is a big hole in the hood, and the air cleaner sticking up thru it. No moving parts and lots of intake howl under heavy throttle. See last picture at http://tinyurl.com/5a92d But I do like the drink mix. It got up in the 90s here this week, first time in a couple of years. Think I'll have one now. H "hamondale" 37506... MORE
You guys are all off the map on cool air induction. What works for me is crushed ice in a glass and enough vodka to float the ice. Open the bonnet and place a Manhattan glass each of the vodka ice mixture on each carb. Wait 5 minutes, remove the glasses from the carb, close the bonnet and start the engine. Hear that? It runs great. Drink the contents of the two glasses and go back in the house. You're too drunk to drive. Rob C- Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free "... MORE
"....we duct all the cool air....." LOL!! Oh, yeah....this'll work just fine! :) Cap'n Bob Mitey Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37499... MORE
A cool air intake sure sounds like a good idea, but...the stopwatch will tell all. I'll do some runs on the next hot day and report back. "joe blxfstz" 37495... MORE
Well... I forget which part of the world you live in but in the Northeast US, we get all temperatures from 15F to 90F or so. I can tell you from experience, the motor is lot peppier at lower end of th e ambient air temp scale than at the high end....and there is absolutely no doubt about this. Anything you can do to cool the air before it enters the induction process WILL be appreciated to one extent or another for sure. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37494... MORE
