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Jens, Great, did you beat him? What kind of Porsche? You might try and do a test before doing a new fuel pump. Try and take 6 or 8 layers of kitchen aluminum foil, crumple it a bit so you have some air space between layers and wrap either the fuel pump and/or the exhaust pipe. You might try and go one step further and take a wet red shop rag and wrap the fuel pump first then wrap in layers of foil. You can also take one or two layers of beer can cut open and wire it... MORE
Jens, If you "kick the PCV" it will leak oil. It needs that to prevent / minimise oil leaks, particularly from the rear crankshaft "seal" Are you using a vented oil filler cap? You should be, which allows entry of air to ventilate the crankcase. If you are using a sealed filler cap it could make it pull too much oil vapour through Guy "Guy Weller" 33290... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
Some bits are interchangeable - tail lights are the same, mirrors are similar, but Midget ones need an extra angled plinth to sit at the correct angle due to the different curvature of the door panel compared to the 'B. Headlamp bezels again are slightly different, but you can generally make B ones fit. Without knowing the spec of your car (North American? UK?) I wouldn't like to comment on the air filter interchangeability. Wiper switch will probably be a two speed for the B and only a single speed for yours but again could be made to fit.... MORE
I joined this group because I just got a 1977 Midget that to my supprise started after sitting in a pasture for 6 years. I fitted new tires and filled up the brake and clutch with fluid and I am on the road. There are a few pieces missing though...Like tail lights, mirrors, headlight bezels, air filter, and wiper switch. There are some of these items on ebay but the are for a 1977 MGB. What is the difference between an MGB and a Midget? Are many parts interchangeable? Thanks in advance, Cole "Cole Warren" 33277... MORE
Jens... Timing..... I am an adult. So talk specifics to me. How "overadvanced" was the total timing from 30 degrees? Give me numbers. PCV valve.... Assuming you are running a stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve with a rubber diaphragm (and it's compatible "filtered" plastic oil filler cap), excessive oil burning would be the product of the rubber diaphragm which has become "porous". They can "look good" even when they're worn out. Replace same and you're done with this. :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33278... MORE
Cool, Jens.... Methinks you're either the victim of overadvanced ign. or intake leaks.... maybe both? Gettin' way too hot in there which is not in your pocket's best interests! Talk later, mate. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33260... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Jens, If it is SUs then what you describe could be caused by worn throttle spindles. This makes the carbs seem very sensitive to mixture settings. If you richen the settings to compensate at low engine speeds, then at full throttle it will be too rich and will bog down or foul the plugs. If you weaken, then at full manifold depression it will pull in air at the spindle and run too weak, causing it to run hotter Guy "Guy Weller" 33249... MORE
Jens...."harder" (colder) spark plugs After you look after the carbs and intake system in general for vacuum (air) leaks, we should "re-visit" this topic. But, first things first for obvious reasons! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33251... MORE
It's a blue moon when a full moon occurs twice in a calendar month, filter or not! Happens about once in slightly less than three years. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33240... MORE
Nigel, You are too kind. Most glaring mistake was installing the throttle and choke linkages backwards. My only excuse is that I've never worked with dual carbs before. I also had to reset the float in one carb as it leaked gas out the intake. FYI-I set the mixture at 2.5 turns from flush and was pretty close to right on. The motor runs about 15-20 dgs. cooler and sounds better and is definitely more responsive. Haven't driven the car yet as I have to build a throttle cable bracket tonight or tomorrow. Then it's a road test and... MORE
Nigel, I don't remember what your car is, But FWIW... I had a similar problem with my Bugeye, My car came disassembled and the fuel tank fiting was not included. By trial and leak, I found that (USA terms) a standard tubing thread, copper compression fitting works. V.B. says that the same fits 65-74, and that the same pipe nut also fits 75-79, so I would assume that this should work in your car. I used copper tubbing from gas tank to carbs, (1 1/2" :() ), which is not stock, but is easier to bend and doesn't rust.... MORE
Hi guys I'm just getting ready to put the fuel tank back on and on inspecting the fuel feed pipe that goes into the tank itself, I noticed it was pretty corroded and on inspection (er read bending) it broke! No big deal I suspected it was corroded beyond service I just wanted it confirmed! The pipe nut on the end look to be pretty serviceable as does the nipple/flare on the end of the pipe. Question - how is that nipple/flare attached to the pipe? Is it brazed on? glued? compression fitting? Can I reuse it or do... MORE
G'day Nigel You are welcome to mine, and I will bring it free of charge as hand luggage. Just send me the money for the return air ticket. avagoodfday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts" 33104... MORE
I lowered my 1 =BD inches by putting in longer bolts with matching spacers cut from pipe above the spring pans. It is fast, easy and best of all cheap. Nigel is correct, don=92t forget to get grade 8 bolts for the replacements. I took out two bolts opposite each other and put I the longer bolts, then slowly back out the other two short bolts so you always have two bolts holding the spring in place. They can be dangerous. Back out the first two and insert the spacers and snug down then the same with the others.... MORE
Don, You can lower the front buy installing non RB front springs and if that dosen't lower it enough put in spacers between the spring pan and the A-arm. Spacers can be made from some thick (1/4") wall pipe/tubing and longer mounting bolts. Cutting down the front springs would be my last resort. For the rear a spacer block between the axle and spring. The spacer would be a block the width of the spring with a locating stud on it's top to fit the upper spring plate and a hole in the bottom to clear/locate it on the... MORE
fluid is safer than compressed air, as it is not compressible, so when the piston does pop out, the liquid doesn't expand, unlike a gas. Pressure vessels are tested for leaks this way. David "David Jacobs" 33066... MORE
I used an air compressor, with 5-8 PSI. Any more pressure then at and things could get messy. Put your hand over the bore so you can catch the piston and spring, when it comes out. "Chris Eastwood" 33065... MORE
G'day Nigel et al As much as I agree with Bob (get a new one) I understand your penchant for originality and budget repairs. So here is an (almost) fail-safe method for freeing seized hydraulic components. (No, Nigel, I'm not being a smart-ass - we all have times where we just have to repair the used bit in front of us.) Take the part in question, let's say it's a clutch slave cylinder, remove all pipes and hoses, clean all the rust and debris out of the cylinder in front of the piston. You need to make it as... MORE
Hi everyone This is a question for anyone with a desmoged late model 1500 engined Midget. As I have kept with original on my '79 1500 I am in need of what is called the Air injection tube for this emissions system. It is a aprox. 1/2" metal tube that runs from the air pump check valve around the back of the cylinder head and screws into the exhaust manifold. It has a large fitting at the manifold and where it fits into the check valve. It is NOT the air rail type tube with the 4 branches to... MORE
"Reaction time" I suspect very true, Bradman. Federal Air Regulation bans all conversation not directly operationally related while the aircraft is in motion from the time the aircraft leaves the gate until such aircraft is once again secured at the gate while below 10,000'msl unless the aircraft enters cruise flight prior reaching the aforementioned altitude and the appropriate cruise checklist is completed. Talking (intelligently) about whatever subject requires timesharing of one's available brain matter (aka "division of attention"). Thus and so, whatever is "used" for the foregoing cannot be part of that which is focused (matter of extent, not... MORE
Lisanne... Your hubby is a mechanic, right? Tell him these cars are really a PITA when it comes to bleeding air out of their hydraulic clutch systems. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32951... MORE
Lisanne, these clutches are notoriously difficult to bleed. You do need to be absolutely sure that you have really managed to get the air out of the system before simply assuming that either the master or the slave cylinder is faulty. There are a variety of tecniques which help in getting all of the air out It would be a waste of money to replace master and slave if in fact they were not faulty! Guy "Guy Weller" 32939... MORE
Just to add to the brake switch discussion. I just replaced the switch on the brake pedal on my '74. Raise the hood and locate the pedal box just behind the left front fender. There are 4 screws holding the cover onto the box. After removing them, the pedals will be visible and you can see if the plunger on the brake pedal switch is working properly. If there is any question, unhook the switch and use a jumper wire to connect the two wires coming from the wiring harness. If the brake lights light, the switch is faulty.... MORE
