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I have an air impact wrench but I don't have a socket that is 1 & 7/8 inches to fit over the nut and didn't care to lay out $20 to buy one. The pipe wrench did less marring of the nut than the cold chisel did. I'm just happy to have it off. Now on to the other one. Nelson in Ohio "Nelson Wittstock" 32456... MORE
Well, I thought I had a local buyer for my Sprite, but it seems to not have worked out. I thought I would check the list and see if I can get an opinion on what it might be worth. Itsa: 1969 Sprite(clear Texas title says 1964, but a typo must have occurred way back before I purchased it in New Mexico about 3 or 4 years ago) Number plate (beneath carbs) matches vin on title. You may recall: It's stuck in first gear. Crap!! Stuff I have done: Porsche 914 Seats Roll bar Tonneau cover adapted (lots of... MORE
Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The bearing nut yielded to a pipe wrench with an 18 inch pipe handle extension. So much for the left side. Now its back to the right side and an uncooperative brake drum. One of the retaining screws came out easily but the second one has thus far resisted my efforts. It will be given more time in its Aerokroil bath before I get out the drill. Nelson - having frustrating fun "witstock7" 32448... MORE
When I first got the bug for these cars, it was with a 65 Midget. I bought a 73 with no title for the drivetrain, and put it in the 65. The 1275 HAD t he hookup on the filter mount (spin on) so I just hooked the wire to it lik e it showed in the Bentley. A few months later, on my way home from Fort Wo rth, the light came on. That had me sweating till I got home, checked the b ook, and saw that all I needed to do was change the oil. This... MORE
It's part of the bolt-on filter head. The only one I have ever seen is on the canister type, not the spin-on. I have an engine from a '69 Midget and it was standard equipped with the cannister type. The sensor is not present, so it must have been done away with by the time the spin-on type was implemented. I know this was original, because I pulled it from a car in 1970 when it was less than a year old (wrecked). Gerard "gerardchateau" 32367... MORE
When did the oil filter light get added? My '59 Mk1 does not have one! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 32352... MORE
As Gerard said elsewhere, it's for the EGR system for most of the USA and Canada, or in California, there was an additional one for the Catalyst. Going back to earlier cars, they all had an oil filter change warning light, but they went out of fashion in about 67/68. David "David Jacobs" 32349... MORE
That's usually a pretty easy fix. You can try two things, one at a time. Drain out the oil. Then use a tooth brush and solvent to clean out the threads in the housing. Frequently there are little bits of "stuff" there! Clean the drain plug so it has no trash bits in the threads and wrap it with teflon tape, like the plumbers use, and put the plug back in. Does the trick about 90% of the time. For the remaining 5 or 10%, do the hole cleaning bit AFTER you have run a 1/2" pipe tap in... MORE
Brad, my rebuilt 1275 smoked blue and I followed all sorts of advice from list members to get it right before I finally fixed it. Of many "cures" attemted, the two that made the most difference in my case were: 1. Replacement of the rocker shaft. Too much oil was leaking out of the rocker bushes. It was apparent by running the engine with the rocker cover off. I left the cork gasket seated on the head and let the engine run at fast tickover. It leaked so fast that it soon created a lake on the top of... MORE
The 68 STILL burns oil. From cold, the first 5 miles are just little puffs, then it goes into James Bond mode. Not full time, it comes and goes. I tried our shop mechanics idea to determine if the rings are seated. I have the head off, so I put 1" of oil on top of each piston. The oil has not dropped hardly at all in 1 1/2 hours. I can tell from the head, which chambers were burning oil, and the one that was not, has the most significant amount of seepage, almost 1/8", the others are... MORE
"toilet paper oil filter" Thanx for the feedback on these, Bob Gardiner. I remember these adds in the WayCJitney catalog as well. I never used one and used to wonder how well they worked. Pretty damn well I guess...380k miles worth!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32279... MORE
I remember these well. They recommended that you always use the stiffest TP you could find. Then as time went on the TP Mfgs. changed the binders in the TP and they started to disintegrate in the filter cartridge. Ahhh! The price of progress in the totally disposal field of TP!! Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32281... MORE
"We can all agree...." Yes we can, Jens...most of us. There are some (few?) who think "oil is oil" and this is true...unless you are talking the "additive packages" that brand name mfgrs. add to the basic stock intended specifically for automotive use. Then the "oil is oil" idea goes right out the window! :):) Paul A (and I) use(d) Fram's for many, many moons with no problems so it is quite possible that conscientious scheduled oil (and filter) changes are more "key" in this than alleged quality of filter. I don't know but certainly, "better" is "better" by... MORE
I've said it before and I'll say it again, I don't believe it is the Yahoo list that is such a source of spam (at least in my case). I get very little spam addressed to the email address I use for this account, because I almost almost never use it elsewhere on the net. The address I do use when I need to sign up for something gets flooded with the stuff, though even for that one, freeserve/wanadoo have just introduced their own spam filters which seem to be working pretty well. I've had a couple of spam... MORE
Funny Paul, 'cause I use to use Fram oil filters as well. And I never had a problem with them as far as I know. But any oil filter article I've read (about 7-8 over the recent years I guess) rates them below most others in terms of quality build and filtering ability over time. So I switched over to Hastings (probably really built by Fram, right??!:):) Wonder if there are differences in the one's built "today" vs the one's built "yesterday"? Dunno. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32240... MORE
Correcto, Jens... I've never seen a kind word about Fram oil filters on any oil and oil filter articles I've read thus far...as you say, quite the opposite. well...let's give Fram a chance to reply to your email and see what they have to say. Understand your comments re: the bypass valve and that you are waiting for a replacement filter for your "Marina" type. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32230... MORE
Hi Cap'n and Jens, I guess I've got to be a lone noise in the wind here. I've always used Fram or Pennzoil filters for as long as I can remember. I've got a 1275 in my van that has almost 300,000 miles on it since a major rebuild. Did 105,000 mile on a quickie rebuild before that, on an engine that came out of a burned MG Midget wreck. Admittedly this engine is now pretty tired, but it still goes OK. I changed the oil and filter religiously at 5k miles, with nary a peep out of this... MORE
Jens... Thanx for the oil articles...still reading 'em. First page sort of missed the boat on synthetics multi-grades as opposed to mineral oil multi-grades. Polymers are "bad"....synthetics don't have or need 'em...so....I mean, obviously!! Don't know anything about oil filters but exactly what brand was the "no holes" filter you replaced. And how's the oil pressure holding up now with the new filter? Or, haven't you tried it yet? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32217... MORE
Rob, I will, but surely you will then end up paying an additional internal shipping cost from your seller to me? Depending on weight this could add another $10 - $30 to your costs. If you know the weight and / or dimensions I can look up a shipping cost from this end if you like. When I wwas shipping to the States last time, it was much cheaper from this end to send by Royal Mail than by any of the USA firms like UPS or Fedex. And yet I have heard the exact opposite claimed from people... MORE
Jens... OK...you got part of the oil pressure problem but I too wonder how "secure" (air tight) that junction/line to the oil pressure gauge is in view of that loose coupling. Whatever... indicated pressure to the extent of anything under 55-60psi "hot" @ 3,000rpm is below mfg's tolerance, as is anything under 10psi "hot" at idle. And, most especially with 20/50 weight mineral oil. Keep at it, man..you're gettin' there! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32136... MORE
Yeah. Im going to have to find some other type of shoes to wear strictly for driving my Midget. My MR2 has come along way since those pics. 90% of the car has been painted now. All thats is left to paint is the aftermarket front and rear airdam and then reassembly. If you look at the third pic youll see that Iv put a driver side air vent. The first gen MR2s only had it on the right side. Iv also relocated the gas filler to the B pillar of both sides of the car and installed Datsun... MORE
"Maybe condensation...." Absolutely!! As previously mentioned... a normal part of start up from cold in the morning, most definitely with a car left outside overnight, and most definitely in cool, damp weather. Problem is, I'm "over here", Guy Weller is "over there" and Jens is somewhere else! So we can't see what Jens is looking at under these circumstances in terms of "extent". Is it normal, or "abe normal" (courtesy, "Young Frankenstein":) It sounds abnormal considering it happens every morning to a great extent, whether the ambient air is "dry" or "wet". The engine warms up after a couple... MORE
Well... I'll tell you Jens. It sounds like the head gasket hasn't taken completely. And obviously, you have a coolant leak in engine compartment in any event. This must be found and fixed. It may be leaking from between the head and block (which you already expect) when the cooling system is fully pressurized, further indicating head gasket sealing problems. Sounds to me that once you warm it up, the head gasket seals more fully as parts swell due to heat. So the whitish/gray smoke disappears accordingly. Head Gasket: I don't think it's fully taken. Nothing to lose by... MORE
Blackish/Grey you say? Well ALLRIGHTY THEN, Jens...it's not oil!! :):) Oil is bluish in color and "stays" in the air. and....the exhaust definitely smells of burning oil (and not unburnt gasoline). Whitish/grey (or gray) is water which is a byproduct of combustion and along with condensation within the exhaust system is produced most abundantly when a "cold" motor (overnight sit, fr'instance) is initially fired up, most definitely on those cool, humid mornings when it tends to stay in the air rather than more immediately evaporate as it does in "drier" air. Black is definitely unburnt gasoline which we get... MORE
You have worn valve guide on the inlets. You can replace the seals on the valve stems, but it will only make a marginal difference. The problem is that when the throttle is shut there is a vacuum in the inlet port area, created by the piston going down and nothing to go in. The inlet valves are open, but not the carb's butterflies. Hence vacuum. This pulls oil from the rocker area thru the valve guides and most of it burns on the back of the inlet valves. Once you're underway this diminishes and you are ok. Don't... MORE
