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I purchased from Moss2 adaptor #235-875. In taking off the old canister, I found the adapter sits real close to the generator. the old canistor mounted on a small mount that in turn attaches to the engine block. the sole purpose of this appears to be to raise the oem canistor oil filter high enough to clear the frame that runs below that side of the engine. if I remove the threaded studs that this mount attaches to the engine block, can I mount the adaptor directly to the engine block with the supplied allen head studs? I think... MORE
It is kind of sad to see someone out of ignorance paying exorbitant prices for something readily available in their local hardware store... Case in point. On ebay at the moment are a set of four plugs to fill the head of a Midget after removing the Air Pump and Rail. There are 5 bids and the current price is at $20.50. The four plugs are: Standard 1/4" brass flare plugs available at Orchard Supply or any ACE hardware store for less than 50 cents each. I have used them on my 74 when I removed the smog air... MORE
Tim I am not that familiar with the 1500 cars but I expect the engine will have to come out to replace the clutch and so this is going to cost 300 in most garages, however if money is tight and the engine was running OK before the gasket blew why not just get that fixed (maybe 150 or so). The problem with second hand engines is that they may be no better than the one you have and you are not going to know without removing the head and checking the bores, so it will still cost you... MORE
Hi Bob, We are not experts by any strech of the imagination, but I can tell you some of the experience the wife and I have had with photo scanning. 1200 DPI takes forever to scann, and unless you have a couple of gig of ram, forever to try and work with. Also, I was told that most printer wont print better than 3-400 DPI, so why scan more than that? I found some old negatives in my father in law's stuff, of B 36 's taking off from Tinian where he was stationed. I plan on scanning them... MORE
Hi guys And please don't think I'm now restoring a Mini because I'm not ok ! It's about time I updated you folks on how the Midget restoration's coming on. The bodyshell is now about 90% complete in gloss coat, there's a couple of area's I need to deal with and a couple of panels to finish with 90/10 paint/thinners mix, to bring up the gloss. The bootlid has had 5 or 6 coats of 50/50 and now needs some 70/30, and 90/10 coats. Likewise the passenger door. The drivers door, is in primer now awaiting its first gloss... MORE
I was thinking in terms of the dyno for correct needle selection, and correct setting of the distributor. Although not totally ignorant, I do not have the experience to set up either properly myself. (there goes the perfectionist again!) I also liked the sound of those rimflo valves, which, together with a few simple head mods, can bring even more of the 'fun factor'. Reading that book has suddenly given me a far greater understanding of why what I discovered over the years was working, actually works. Not only that, I can see how to improve on it. The... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
I suggested the thermostat, unchanged in 140,000 miles might be stuck open...but would it get more open (opener?) as the engine warmed up? Quiet normal if its engine speed related. more water going through the rad, (water pump speeded up) and more air being foced though the rad (more air taing the heat way fron the water). This is why being stuck in traffice will make a car run hot, no real volume of air cooling the rad and slower water circulation! Stewart "Ford Prefect" 28900... MORE
When I did my car I cleaned back to bare metal and welded the necessary areas in turn. I primed each area as I completed it to keep rust from forming, particularly within the seams. I also used that weldable zinc primer on all lap welded seams. As the whole process was done over an extended period it ended up as a real patchwork of primers, applied at different times, under different conditions (temperature / humidity) and I wasn't very confident of how good the adhesion of the primer was as a basis for finish coats. I then grit... MORE
Duncan Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm If you're getting 'good' adhesion with the aerosol primer, it probably won't make any difference, but the problem is you won't know how good the adhesion was until quite a few coats later and then it will just begin lifting and flaking off! I've had that happen a couple of times, when I haven't used etch primer. So, to be safe, I'd use etch primer instead of the normal primer - you can get etch primer in aerosol cans - I used U-pol Acid #8, (www.u-pol.com) I'm sure you can get it in the US. Just make... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
Well... With no intent to be a wise-guy, ass-u-me(ing) it's all mechanically in decent shape...what's the problem? The timing specs are in the book whether it's the Cooper S mech. dizzy or the later vac. one, right? So are the carb. set-up directions. You MAY need an SU carb jet centering tool (much better than using the carb. needle shank) and a portable hand held tach so as to positively "see" that slight momentary rise in rpm as you lift the air valve 1/8" or so off the jet bridge and a Unisyn (or the like) to positively "see"... MORE
Actually the oldest one flying right now has only a mere 27,000+ flight hours on it (Bob and his cat will appreciate that!). That one was built in 1968. However most of the ones used now were built in the 1980's. They used to be called TR-1 until Ronnie and Gorbie met and made that treaty. Gorbie said "get rid of your TR-1 Spy planes". Ronnie said, "OK". He than called the Air Force Chief of Staff and told him, "Rename all the TR-1s to U-2s". So what was a "Tactical Reconnaissance Platform" turned into a "Utility Platform". So... MORE
My God, how old is the U-2? It does not seem practical to keep something that old in the air. I can't remember the year but it is so long ago that I can hardly remember good old Frances Gary Powers. Seriously, to keep it up and safe, do they have to completely re build them, like replace all wiring, rivets, panels, new Heritage shell, etc? Are they still building them new? Bob in San Diego "60 is not old.........if you are a tree!" "Robert D. Gardner" 28661... MORE
The capilary type temperature gauge is filled with technical ether used to be available from a chemist (drug store!) (may be able to use acetone of swift start - rapid start the calibration may be out but should be able to get boiling point correct) the assembly is soldered together empty a +-1mm hole is driled in the botom of the bulb and the ether injected into the bulb leaving a small amount of air in the system a tapered brass pin (available from clock makers) is then driven into the hole to seal it then imerse the buld... MORE
Hi Trevor- Yes, alignment tool was used. Have played A LOT with bleeding, including pressure bleeding. Absolutely no air. Pushrod moves almost one-half inch. I'm told this is all it should move. I've owned four of these cars. I can tell you for sure something is wrong. While I am sure some driving will help, I fear the tranny will be junk inside of a week. Doing some reading and had a thought. Early slave cylinders were 7/8 bore. Late slave was one inch. What if I switch to an early slave? Will it not give me greater pushrod... MORE
F-111...FB-111 Thought so as soon as you mentioned Buffs. My ex-Chief Pilot at Brockway Air used to fly FB's our of Plattsburgh, NY wherein B-52's were also based...same with Pease...Buffs teamed with FB's. That FB is a "dense" airplane...75,000lbs+ loaded I guess. He loved the thing and the job. Mission was "on the deck" (terrain following) 2 element nuclear delivery, than get the hell outta there anyway you could sorta thing. Guy was a great pilot, check pilot and boss. Very fast, accurate thinker! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28625... MORE
From: robbatley [mailto: robbatley@... ] Sent: Monday, January 26, 2004 10:28 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Dual gauge The capilary type temperature gauge is filled with technical ether used to be available from a chemist (drug store!) (may be able to use acetone of swift start - rapid start the calibration may be out but should be able to get boiling point correct) the assembly is soldered together empty a +-1mm hole is driled in the botom of the bulb and the ether injected into the bulb leaving a small amount of air in the system a tapered... MORE
Paul... Didn't know you were experienced with LBC's. Please ignore my prior post on simply driving it to work out suspected air in the system. Go with your own experience and feelings in the matter. If you mixed parts to different systems, you may be onto something here in terms of different MC pushrod throws. I seem to remember this coming up in past list discussions but I cannot recall accurately I am afraid and I don't personally "know". Where are Frank and Chuckster when you need them???? :) If you require a more immediate answer you might try... MORE
Paul, Yes it will crunch going into 1st and reverse Yes it will be harder getting into gears when stationary The "bite point" on the clutch should be further from the floor so it may still need adjustment, But.... nothing beats driving it for a few hundred miles. It will shake any remaining air bubbles out of the hydraulic fluid. It will bed down any contact surfaces, synchro hubs, clutch and release bearing and it will ease the meshing of gears Drive it! Gets some miles under those tyres!! OK, wait till the snow has gone and then drive... MORE
Agreed...I was just about to say, Guy W. Assuming correct length rods and correct parts... Spridget clutch systems are notorious for this initial behaviour after initial (and more than just initial!) bleeding. I once left the slave cylinder very slightly open overnight and while there was still more than sufficient fluid in the MC in the AM, it still needed bleeding and we still got air out of it. Real PITA! Used it for a week during which time the level in the MC required slight filling periodically and the pedal moved up off the floor and all was... MORE
