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January 29, 2004
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ]
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM
To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice
Duncan
I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers
pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer.
What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as
just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your
only
option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will
probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is
your
only option for spraying at home).
The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the norm now
is two-pack lacquer, so called because it needs an activator to 'dry' rather
than drying via evaporation of solvents in cellulose. The activator used in
'two-pack' is Icocyanate based and as the name implies is highly toxic
containing Cyanide, which needs specialist oxygen fed breathing equipment
and sealed spray booths so is not suitable for home spraying.
You have two choices really in respraying yourself - do all the primer and
prep work yourself and get a paint shop to do the final colour coats, or do
it
all yourself. But let me tell you (because I've just been there) if you do
it
yourself and really want a top quality finish be prepared for some serious
hard work. Do yourself a favour and have the whole shell blast cleaned and
etch primed - this will in itself save you an enormous amount of work.
I can't help you with paint suppliers in the US, I'm sure someone on the
list
can, but as long as you go to a good supplier and have the original paint
codes (tartan red is BL code RD9, US aftermarket paint code RM BM124R) they
should be able to mix it up for you.
I resprayed the whole of my shell from bare metal underneath, inside and
outside with minimum of 6 double 50/50 coats on the underside and inside
and 6 more double 70/30 coats on the outside plus all the ancillary bits and
bobs and heres how much paint I got through, or will need.
2 x 5 litres of cellulose gloss
2 x 5 litres of cellulose primer filler
2 x 1 litre of Etch primer
1 x 1 litre of stonechip (for underside, under wheel arches etc)
3 x 5 litres of gloss quality cellulose thinners
4 x 5 litres of standard quality thinners for primer and gunwash/cleaning
2 x 2.5 litre tubs of standard filler (bondo)
2 x 25 sheet packs of 600 grade wet and dry
1 x 25 sheet packs of 1000 wet and dry
1 x 25 sheet packs of 1200 wet and dry
Misc sheets of 250, 400 wet and dry
You could probably get away with 7 litres of gloss and primer, but the deal
I
was getting from my paint factor meant a 5 litre can was about the same
price as 3 1 litre cans, so I just got 2 x 5 litre cans. Same with thinners
you
could probably get away with less, but this gives you a guide to work from.
I
havent totted up how much it all cost but I reckon it will come in at about
$750.
The reason you need a bit more thinners than the paint (if you consider that
you're thinning the paint 50/50 is because for the later coats its being
thinned
70/30 and 90/10. For the standard thinners its because you need to clean the
spray gun out, stuff off your hands and anywhere else you spill it!
Cellulose
thinners is also remarkably good at cleaning off traces of underseal as
well.
If you get the opportunity, buy The Haynes book 'Car Bodywork Repair Manual'
by Lindsay Porter - very good sections on paint, spraying, spraying problems
and filler.
If you need any more info I'd be happy to help.
Nigel
"Duncan Sinclair" < duncan@... > 28778
Posted on January 29, 2004 09:37 PM
Posted to category(s) Body | Cylinder Head | Engine (external) | Engine (internal) | Exterior | Ignition System | Intake System | Interior | Restoration | Specifications | Technical Info | Tuning | Wheels
