MAIN
Ignition System
Next Page
Greetings! I just purchased a 1977 Midget and I have already run a problem. I can't get the ignition key out. Is it stuck, or must I do more than push in the little button? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Pete "mrrohrmayer" 38038... MORE
when i drive along at over 50mph.. my ignition key just falls out!..and the car just keeps on going! Try driving faster Pete!!!.. it will rattle out eventually! Ebonn369@... 38041... MORE
Button? Tab? I have no such device on my '78 midget. Then again, I have a Moss Motors replacement ignition. Then again, I don't recall a button on the old ignition. FWIW, here is a picture of my old ignition, from when I was having my broken-key problem... Does your ignition look different? http://www.1978mgmidget.com/key_wont_turn.jpg Steve Steven Michelsen 38040... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
G'day all Well this guy describes this as: 3000 MkI MkII MkIII Sprite Healey bugeye bj8 bn1/bn2 and it isn't, but isn't it wonderful? Someone must want to buy it! Can't you just see it with a small block Chevy and air suspension? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Early-Austin-complete-rolling-chassis-Vintage-part_W0QQitemZ7989430709QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Now this is an incredible item. It is a blanking plug that replaces the distributor. WOW, just think how long each tank of gas will last! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7989275125&category=72205&rd=1 avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37990... MORE
Hi, Appolgies for a simple question but I'm a novice :) I've just damaged my back trying to locate the fuel pump on my '73 Midget. I believe pump may be faulty. (Car won't start & no "ticking sound" from rear end when ignition is first turned on. Thanks "johnco89" 37874... MORE
Just realised the stalks on the dizzys are different lengths - maybe I should just go buy an electronic ignition kit! Regards Chris wire it housing - them. "closrheidol" 37842... MORE
First, have you converted to negative earth? If not, you may well have some trouble with this! For the connections, the easiest way is to see if you can find a post '85 Metro or 1.3 Maestro in a scrapyard (shouldn't be too hard - can't be many running still!) and cut the relevant bit of the wiring loom off, with moulded one-way connector still attached. Hopefully, it should have a black wire (earth), a white wire (coil +ve or SW terminal) and a white with black tracer (coil -ve or CB terminal). Hope this helps. Regards David "David... MORE
Hi all I have a dizzy with an electronic module built in (on the side), probably from a 1275 metro or mini engine. Has anyone fitted one of these to a frogeye - if so, how do I wire it in? There are three electrical spade connections within a plastic housing - but no identification on them as to what should be connected to them. Any help appreciated Chris South Wales '58 frogeye "closrheidol" 37831... MORE
My 76 1500 has a original lucas (as far as I know) and it does have a vacuum line from carb to distributor. "Kevin Gastin" 37825... MORE
this might be a dumb question, but is there supposed to be a vacuum line between the distributor and the carb, or not? It's got the Opus distrib, and the vacuum port on both the carb and the distrib are blanked off. Is this okay, or did the DPO screw it up? I know I can run with the EGR not hooked up (NH- no emissions inspections) but could this be the source of the car running really lean? Thanks in advance, George "chuibuddy" 37823... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
Jim, I would be thrilled if I owned a BE that would be good enough to qualify as a "Trailer Queen". Or could it be a "Trailer King"? Bob Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a stone ding, or dust on the under side of the correct SU fuel pump. He perhaps wins shows and honors due to his years of hard work and care... MORE
I have a 75 which was the first year electronic ignition was available. My car was a basket case when purchased. I put in a new solenoid and installed an aftermarket ignition box either Pertronix or Mallory (I forget which) as I was so new to it at the time I had the work done. That fixed things. It's probably a good idea to replace the solenoid on principle (they're inexpensive) and see where that gets you. IF that doesn't help I would recommend putting in a new ignition module and coil. It's more money but you can forget... MORE
Hi, I am a new MG owner and know NOTHING about them. Mine does not run... Was told it ran great last fall, but it had an over heating problem. Engine cranks, but has no spark at the coil. When testiong for power at the positive side of coil it shows none... so I ran a hot wire from the battery to the coil and it started... but only ran less than a minute and it stalled... tried to restart and it had no spark... I disconnected the power wire... rehooked and it started again for a few seconds.... MORE
Paul.... "Thin flange" refers to the thickness of the actual wall of the block, this thickness being most apparent in the block's lower "flange" which borders the oil sump. As far as I know, the company went to thicker wall ("thick flange") 1275's by '68. For stock bores, the thin-flange was not a weak engine. I tested a Judson blower on a stock bore thin-flange '67 for many, many runs at 4-6psi to 6,000rpm and while we did not retain the blower, there wa s no apparent engine damage as the motor continued to run just fine for man... MORE
awww, you mean I won't be able to start the engine running backwards?! (It's fun to do this on someone else's two stroke twin bike - the engine can run backwards if you swap the plug leads) David "David Jacobs" 37640... MORE
Better watch out for the wipers, though. They'll now go forth and back! Pa Nothing! The starter doesn't care about polarity. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37636... MORE
Nothing! The starter doesn't care about polarity. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 37634... MORE
Andy.... Brad says you've got a '67 and he oughta know. The '67 had the "early" thin-flange 1275. And most likely it is the standar d high compression (this would be the "H" in the engine #) 8.8-1 motor. The "good stuff"!! This motor was most likely equipped with the #40819 Cooper "S" spec. Lucas 23D mechanical advance only distributor and even better, most likely the rare a nd much sought after EN40 (bulletproof) steel crankshaft. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37613... MORE
Im having a spot of bother with a '59 Sprite. The fuel gauge always registered about a third full so while I had to remove the tank, I carried out some resistance tests. The sender unit came up as faulty so was duly replaced. Now that the new sender unit is in place, I am getting full on the gauge when the ignition is on. I have checked the wiring to the sender unit and it is not earthing anywhere. The owners handbook has some tips regarding testing of the fuel gauge which I have tried but I am... MORE
