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I'm contemplating buying an electronic ignition system for the 65 Sprite. Are there any favored ones over another? Also is it worth buying a coil by the same manufacturer, possibly better quality? We are fed up of dealing with points anymore! Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 32816... MORE
Shouldn't make any difference in that respect. Supply can be either pos. or neg. Coil gets hooked up differently for each. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32827... MORE
"Yes" and "yes", Chris. See if the supplier has the later improved "PerTronix II" rather than the earlier "PerTronix" (aka "PerTronix I", so to speak) for your model # distributor, Chris, should you decide to go this route. The "II" incorporates a sytem which electronically adjusts dwell and provides for a stronger spark at the higher rpms, as compared to that provided by the earlier PerTronix units. Either will work just fine though. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32823... MORE
Hi Jens, I've never heard of placing it there. I have no idea why they're saying th at. Ask them to carefully explain why when all newer cars seem to have the resistance on the supply side. Many British cars came with resistance wire on the supply side. That's not the ground side!! Why don't you simply go out and buy a coil with a built in resistor? All t his conversation has been going on for ages and nothing but conflicting sto ries and no resolution. Give me your address and I'll gift you a coil and get... MORE
Martyn... I understand you're being a little tired of having to replace, set dwell and adjust timing periodically, when an electronic conversion basically eliminates this chore. The good thing about points is that when the system needs attention, it usually warns you by a progressive fall-off in performance. An electronic conversion is usually "on" or "off" in terms of failure... usually no warning. And of course, don't forget the dizzy needs a few drops of oil every now and then! The forgoing having been said, I've used Crane "700" and "3000" units up until a couple of years ago,... MORE
One additional thing to pour into the stew, most cars have an accessory position on the key. That is to keep current from flowing through the coil for a long time un interrupted by the points. As some one pointed out. If you are getting 12 vdc to the coil and it is interrupted by the points running at, say, 3,000 rpm, the measured voltage will be less than 12 vdc and the length of time the coil is generating heat is less than 100% of the time. (A smart person could figure out what percentage with rpm, dwell... MORE
Good. That's what it would be without a resistor. With the charging circu it running, it might even be higher. With a resistor in place on that side of the coil, when the resistor gets hot, the voltage might drop to about 8 volts. That's where it should be for a "non ballasted" coil. It's possible that your coil calls for reduced voltage soon after start up and it's not getting it. You should be able to get one at an auto supply/p arts store. Don't know the value it would be, but it's pretty low ohms. A sk... MORE
Chris West... If this is what a ballast resistor does for a coil, do you happen to know if this is similiar to what a "vibrator" does for a "magneto" in a system so equipped? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 32803... MORE
ah yes, I see now - when I first read the email, I was thinking the resistor was in series with the coil, not parallel. David "David Jacobs" 32799... MORE
does it really matter? Surely it's limiting the amount of current flowing through the coil whichever side it's placed. David 32796... MORE
The typical function of a resistor in either the coil as in built in, special resistance wire to the coil or with one in series between the power supply and the coil is this. When the resistor is cold, it passes a lot of current so the cooil will have about full voltage at start up to produce a hot spark. As the resistor heats up, it reduces the amount of power getting through, so instead of a full 12 volts, for example, it now is passing only 9 volts or so. The coil will still produce a full... MORE
Yes, it matters. You will only get reduced voltage between the resistor and ground. Coil will still have the full amount. Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 32797... MORE
Pretty sure it would be on the hot side to the coil, not the ground. "Paul Asgeirsson" 32795... MORE
Now the paint is finally going on my 1500 I have been sorting though the bits. On inspecting the front suspension what a surprise, it's all shot. play nearly everywhere it should not be. Do any of the owners clubs in the UK still keep the reamer needed to fit the bush and lend it out? (IIRC Dad borrowed one from the local MGOC back in the '70s). Onto another oddity, My car had the horn in the steering wheel, and the indicator stalk was damaged (a sizable piece of the end of it was missing) and it has... MORE
Mike, Let me start by saying if there are no leaks and the fluid level in the MC dosen't drop, I would suspect your MC. That said, does your brake warning light come on when you turn the ignition on? If it dosen't then the switch is centered. When either the right or left brakes fail the internal shuttle is push to one side or the other to seal off the side which has lost pressure and when it does it activates the switch and the dash light comes on. If your light is on after bleeding the brakes... MORE
Good one, Brad!! LMAO!!! Ya' know, I've got little respect for Bill's ethics and sense of honor and/or integrity such as I percieve it to be. But a part of me likes the guy personally, nontheless. I mean he did what he did and that which he definitely should not have done, "professionally" speaking. He isn't the first (of either sex, "position" notwithstanding, and he sure as hell won't be the last! The thing about Bill which really turned me off was his inability to take responsibility for his "human" failings. I mean, if the guy simply stood up... MORE
Hillary isn't gonna be second-in-command to Kerry (IMHO)......because if he fu-ks up......????? See what I mean. She's too smart to be that closely associated, "in the event" and I have to admit, Kerry has his good points but he's no strong candidate, per se. I think Kerry is the best they have to offer at this point in time given global circumstances. The only way (IMHO) he'll get in is if The Shrub REALLY fu-ks up (which is certainly possible given the unsettled times both here and abroad). Could I be wrong? Sure!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@...... MORE
Guys... Can't help but believe we are losing something in the translation, here. A faster rising of the piston (as Duncan points out) can be counterproducive to acceleration in terms of low end torque not only because of the "ramming affect" of a "smaller" venturi at the low end, but also because of the "leaning out" of the mixture on acceleration caused by "too great a rate". The thing is, the "proper weight" oil is "correct" for "rate of rise" in accordance with the maker's design of the application to begin with. The spring controls wherein the needle will... MORE
Cap'n , Personally I've never heard it called an air valve - always a piston. I have a dim recollection that one of the tuning mods for improved acceleration was to drill two 1/82 (3.125 mm) holes in the piston at 90 degrees to the keyway. The existing hole in the side of the piston would be tapped and an aluminium plug screwed in .That was for the HS2 1 1/4" carb for minis though - might work on the midgets also. Somebody will prolly have an SU tuning book and confirm or deny the above. Just my tuppenyworth... MORE
Ah HAH.... You may have hit the nail right on the head here, Jens... "If (my engine...tuned or not) cannot SUCK (produce enough vacuum) to open a pair of HS2's....." EXACTLY!!!! It is time to "begin at the beginning", Jens. As in MAJOR tune-up. Step one is checking engine "mechanical health".... with valves properly adjusted...time for a basic compression & leakdown check. Considering recency of engine work, you're looking for 150 or better on compression check and leak-down rates of less than 10%. Remember to hold the butterflies fully open (accelerator pedal fully to the floor) during the compression... MORE
Willliam, FWIW-I bought an 1975 for $500 and have replaced virtually every mechanical component. I found and freshly rebuilt engine through the MG Club of Chicagoland classifieds for $632 (engine and freight). It need a backplate and dizzy which I pirated from the original. The special designation to the best of my knowledge had little to do with performance and a lot to do with creature comfort ...radio, carpet appearance package etc. My estimation is that the $600 is OK but you'll need to do more than you think. It will take longer and cost more. Rob C 1975... MORE
I'm looking at buying a 1976 MG Midget special 57K with the 1500cc engine it has the Webber carb upgrade new starter and alternator but the connecting rod bolt came out and trashed the lower end of the engine they said it need a crank connecting rod and the block needed to be machined. How much would it cost to rebuild vs. replace with new/used engines???? also what are the specs for this engine stock and with the Webber carb kit??? besides that the car is decent shape minor rust (not bad surface only on seams)and there are a... MORE
On our old Singer Vogue, we could take the key out of the ignition with the engine still running. In fact, once the whole barrel came out and fell on the floor! With lots of old cars, particularily those still using the original key, the keys become very worn. They work, but there is no way that a duplicate could work! The lock & key wear out together. Margaret So much to do, so few people to do it for me. mmbrock88@... 32634... MORE
Paul, I bought a matched set, 2 doors and boot lock for my '71 Sprite. I then dismantled the ignition lock cylinder and swapped the little tumbler plates around until it matched the new key set. Fiddely, and I think of the 7 little brass plates I ended up having to file 2 to match the key after swapping the other 5 around . You need to be very patient! I then find that in practice I never lock the doors anyway as there really dosn't seem any point - I rarerly have the hood up, and if I... MORE
Difficult, because even as new, the boot was a different key! But it was the same for the doors and ignition. Hmm ...... Difficult, that one. My comments apply to a '66 Midget, of course, it might have been different by the time yours came along. Good luck with that one, you might need it You could always try dismantling the lock and making your own tumblers to fit the key of course, but that is a bit of a specialist job and if you can't do it yourself it would probably be mega expensive. R. "Roger Stinson" 32617... MORE
