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I have been on this list for a while. I have seen many comments being thrown around from member to member. I think in order to keep members, we should all remember to take everything with a grain of salt and also remind ourselves that thick skin is needed where things of a mechanical nature are concerned. This is from a grumpy aircraft mechanic whose patience has been lost many times with others. However, I just always remind myself that not everyone is as smart as I. In fact, I am so smart, I make myself sick! LOL! Ed... MORE
Are you getting power to the coil when the ignition is turned on? I just encountered this on my 65 ford pickup and it was the + lead busted off of the solenoid. Matt Pfeil 76 Midget 65 Ford F100 "matthew pfeil" 25842... MORE
"Checked for voltage at the dizzy", where? The bolt on the outside of the dizzy is OK, but there is a wire that goes from that bolt to the points that isn't really a fuseable link, but blows like one. Check to see it you have a circut from the bolt to the points, and the points have a nylon O that goes through the end of the spring that if the connection isn't just right, no fire. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 25828... MORE
I tried to start the beast after many years and have no spark. I have put new points in and gapped them to spec, checked for voltage at the dizzy- 12 volts, checked the primary windings on the coil - low resistance, the wires all show continuity from end to end. My most likely suspect is the coil since I'm skeptical of the resistance readings, should have had some shouldn't it? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25817... MORE
I can't take this political stuff anymore without throwing in my two cents and make a couple of succinct points. 1. " government standing up for the little guy..." What about the little guy standing up for himself? Voting is down and every class of folks has there hand out. 2. I thought people ran corporations. Shouldn't we be talking about greedy people? 3. Ask anyone who's lived with a socialized medical system and find out how they like it. I know there are listers from the UK. 4. Folks forget but "big business" started the whole medical benefit... MORE
Until I get the transmission from the 68 repaired, I have dug through the extras in shed. I started with the latest one that came out of a 65 Midget, that had not been on the road in over 20 years. The shifter would not move, and the input shaft was almost locked. I put an old yoke on the back and gave it a bit more pressure and got it to move. I forced the shifter into all gears, and got a nice positive, firm movement on front and rear shafts. The thing that concerned me was the... MORE
Got a '75 1500 hundred. There's no spark from the coil. I've got voltage to the distributor through the primary circuit (or at least to the last connector going into the distributor). There seems to be a problem with the ballast resistor in that it gets very hot and doesn't seem to step down from 12v to 7v as it should. I've tried three different coils, but still no spark. This is probably an embarrassingly simple problem, but I'm totally stumped. Anyone got any ideas? Thanks in advance, Rich "rohanley" 25691... MORE
Chris, Welcome to the MG world. I have a '75 Midget witht the 1500 Triumph drivetrain so I can shed some light on the subject. The 1500 motor is strong and torquey. It gives reasonalbe performance even in the gutless, smog-choked years it was installed. For most uses of the car, the 1500 is great. The 1275 is an MG engine and a pretty good one. It revs higher, snarls instead of rumbling and is very eager to accept upgrades and really become a screamer. For semi-serious and serious performance driving, autocross, road racing or balls out engine building,... MORE
I've only owned one later model Midget; the rest have been older Sprites. But, I had the same noise and while the fuel pump was indeed getting noisey with age, I agree with Paul that you should check your exhaust clearances. The frame rail can resonate like a drum when the exhaust is not quite as tight as it should be and the pipes make contact with the car. But you said that it happens as soon as you unlock the ignition ? Wait until the pilot bearing starts going out... that's a noise that will really confound you.... MORE
I am having a bit of a clear out. All the following items are from 1972 1275 Midget which I have rebuilt for Hill Climbing Pair of Seats with head rests new covers serviceable but really need refurbishing 5 Rostyle wheels original distributor pair of SU on manifold with air cleaner original steering wheel front brakes callipers, new discs, hardly touched green stuff pads anti tramp bars complete kit effectively unused Make me an offer Based in Leeds UK "Peter Whittle" 25549... MORE
Hi... please don't laugh as I am a novice to this MG stuff. I have just purchased my first Midget and have a little niggle. When I turn the ignition key to the first position I get a subtle knocking noise - obviously something electrical - maybe fuel pump or starter motor???? As I start the engine and drive this knocking is still there (so obviously a necessary part of the running of the car) but the noise becomes louder and louder on an ad-hoc basis especially after a long run then pulling up at traffic lights). Should I... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
I dont have the smog rules here in Nevada, how do I plug these holes? There are two threaded holes, where the smog equipment exits the exaust manifold. I have the mg79200 in the photos section. I (dont) want to use the J/B weld on this hole problem. Any help would be appreciated. My name is Bill. THANKS "ooohaynow1" 25303... MORE
Hello listers I finally got the ignition switch installed and put back together. Now the turn signals don't work. The stem works OK to switch from hi to lo beam. I haven't been able to find a fuse. Any ideas? Thanks Neil "Neil Hernan" 25253... MORE
Don't know. The car was not driven for almost a year and I do not know what all the PO did to it. The guy I bought it from bought it running, drove it home and a couple of times around the block, did some work on the battery pan, put in a new radiator and hoses then got too busy at his job to do more so never took it off the no-op license and let it sit for almost a year, then when he tried to drive before selling it discovered he could not get it into... MORE
Hi David, The engine mounting plate is identical to the Spridgets as are the rubber mounts. Because the frame is completely different in the Morris, the frame to rubber mount bracket is completely different. The Datsun engine has the motor mounts near midway in the block, so new mounting points to the frame are required. Also, they are not symetrical like the Spridgets, so two differnt length frame mounts are necessary. Paul A. makes the motor mounts and so there was no need to reinvent the wheel. I just purchased them from him. Placement is a matter of position... MORE
spent a maddening day working on the car...... my dizzy is in terms junk, something is down inside that is making horrible noises. I went to plan b and installed the spare, she works great. with points! I tried to install the petrtonix I bought yesterday and have no spark. I went back and put the points in, and its great, have been on the phone all day with tech at petronix and im no closer than before. Just got back from the store where I witnessed some child abuse in the parking lot. Lady was hurrying her 2... MORE
Steve, I never had to remove the column, but I had to loosen it to be able to remove the cowl. As for the ignition switch, when you remove the switch itself from the key lock and tumbler assembly, see if the key rotates then. I had the ignition switch itself jam up twice on my 76. The original one and on the replacement that was only 2 weeks old. I took the old one apart and the contact tabs had just worn away, broke and jammed. The new one I just sent back. Haven't had any problems since.... MORE
After a little digging I was able to answer my own question=85 The Carrera shocks for the front Spridget tube shock conversion (the ones that incorporates the original shock as the upper link) is #3255- PLN and is $94 from Carrera themselves. At first I thought this shock was a little pricy till I found out that this shock has the correct eyelet mounts (5/8"), is re-buildable, is re-jettable, can be converted to coil-overs and has progressive damping from 275-475 lb/in=B2. All things considered=85 this shock is still a little pricy or me, so I'll go with the next... MORE
I am faced with having to replace or repair the ignition switch on my '78 Midget. I intend to pull the assembly off the steering column and either bring it to a locksmith to replace the cylinder, or have Moss send me a new assembly for $159 (yuck). In any event, Haynes (p226) says that step 1 is removing the steering column entirely. Is this really necessary? I see that with the everything else in place, to remove just the cowling, it would have to be bent into a shape that it may not want to go into. Has... MORE
Jason... Sounds like the problem is on the "other side" (electrical) of the engine, assuming compression and leak down figures do not indicate mechanical problems. When was the last time you replaced wires, dist. cap, plugs, points, condenser and/or coil? Actually, best to do a major tune-up in which case you'll most likely come across and/or solve the problem, in any event? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24756... MORE
As a further follow up on this posting, I took a few minutes to study the portion of the wiring harness that plugs into the switch. There has evidently been a dead short in the switch as the wires have melted together and I'm sure they are touching at some point. Again, I think the copper contact inside the plastic plug that goes into the switch assembly has shorted out and the switch problem is there. Neil "Neil Hernan" 24692... MORE
Hello to All I finally got some time to work on the MG switch. Following the ideas/instructions from previous posts, I got the electrical plug out of the ignition switch. The metal portion of the switch assembly that wraps around the steering column now seems to work OK. At least I can remove the key. I then took the electrical plug apart. There are a couple of copper contacts, springs and steel balls. My questions is this, is the spring built into the metal switch assembly or the plastic electrical plug that fits into the switch assembly? I did... MORE
Which brings up a question I have. Is there anything to stop a person from installing an earlier model dash 59 - 63 in a 73 Midget? Realizing the washer switch, turn signal switch and ignition switch would have to come off the steering column. Don "Don May" 24620... MORE
