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If the guy who did the work was this good my hunch is still that you should be able to disengage the clutch before you proceed trouble shooting for possible causes in the engine. Do you know for sure the flywheel gears or clutch pressure plate is not catching up on something? Is the starter installed? Don "Don May" 27722... MORE
Or over-long spark plugs .... "Roger Stinson" 27703... MORE
After all this time do you think something has fallen in there? A 1/4" nut or valve cotter would do the trick. Also possibly you have a sticking or bent valve that is hitting the top of a piston. Take the valve cover off and see if the valves and rockers look allright. Look in the spark plug holes. I can have a head off alot faster than a pan and then you could tell if the engine turns over. Happy trails...Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 27701... MORE
I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
Gents, If I may contribute. Have had my engine (1500) in and out several times both with and without gearbox attached. Used the same set up each time. My garage has a steel "I" beam across the top to support the story above. I drilled a hole and mounted a heavy "eye" bolt to the beam. Attached a "come-along" and chain to the engine lift points and ripped it right out. The chain is nice as one can achieve any angle of attack by where the come along is attached to the engine chain. I don't believe a steel... MORE
I got the rules for my 1965 MGB. You need so many points, you get points for original engine, running gear, suspension steering rack etc. A heritage shell counts as an original body if it was the same as the old rusty one, minus the rust that is, on the basis that you are replacing like for like and its a valid spare bit. A problem for MK1 MGBs as you can only get MK2 shells. I am sure these rules are on the MGOC or DLVC web sites terry "terry.isherwood" 27676... MORE
Duncan wrote I did consider hooking up a block from the roof beams in the garage but the better half was terrified I would damage the new roof....Put her foot down about that one :-) Thats how I did it. Removed the bonnet, jacked the car up onto rar ramps at the front . A couple of short ropes around the engine (removed the alternator manifold / carbs and starter first)Used a block and tackle with the load over spead between 3 beams . Took the weight of the engine with the block and tackle then jacked the car... MORE
When I first had my car a few years ago (!) I noticed that water collected in the bottom of the doors and so I drill a few small holes at the points where water seemed to remain. It may be just coincidence, but I am still using the original door frames and skins, with only surface rust top deal with. (not the easiest inside a door frame, but it can be done!) Oh, I think some Dinitrol fluid might have helped as well. :-) Of course, the holes totally ruin the originality, but on this one, I don't... MORE
Chris That 'vision in green' looks far too nice for you, I thought you were looking for one that needed a little work? ;) Seriously though it looks good, nice straight body, nice bright shiny paintwork, sills painted the correct colour black this time, wire wheels look in good condition, useful extras - boot rack and roll over bar and most importantly it looks like it been cared for and looked after. I'd question the total mileage of 14,000 miles, or is that the mileage on the new unleaded reconditioned engine? The seller is also throwing in a new... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Before I install the wrong spark plugs and poke a hole in the top of a piston or two, I thought I better get some professional help from the group. I've installed the Ignitor and a 40K coil, now I don't know what range plug to install. I'm equally unsure about the plug wires. The other up-grades to this engine are a Kent 266 cam, bored 20 over and fully balanced with an aluminum flywheel. What combination of spark plugs and wires would be best suited to this engine. TIA Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "klutterbutt92530" 27424... MORE
Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with anything near the plugs/dizzy/carb, suspect lack of juice to the plugs is not the issue. I'm going to swap out the coil to see if... MORE
From: Pete Skalski [mailto: pskalski@... ] Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 7:41 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1500 - Low voltage troubleshooting - Help Thanks to Pilot Rob, Duncan, and David C. for responses. To answer collectively, fuel is being fed to the carb. Last time running wasn't too long ago. I removed the brake MC for resleeving/rebuild at the time, and decided then to address the pedal box area corrosion. I have not yet tried, as Duncan suggested, to hold No1 wire close to the block (3/8") and check for a spark. Since I haven't mucked with... MORE
Hello all, I'm sure someone out there can help, and would greatly appreciate any or all feedback regarding this one. The engine is turning, but not starting. I have a spark at the coil, and the dizzy has not been touched since last start. The coil is the ballast type with resistor, and the wires were moved, in order to address a bit of corrosion in the pedal box area, but all wires were returned to their original position. Thanks in advance for any words of advice regarding a fix. Pete 78 midget Granville, OH "Pete Skalski" 27356... MORE
Peter... You got spark to the plugs? You got fuel to the plugs? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27357... MORE
Hi David- Couldn't access the pic at all. Thanks for your help. I am still trying to figure out the attachment problem on my car. When I started my restoration, I stripped the car down to bare metal. Found the right wing had a bit of repair. All other panels were perfect. Sought out a NOS wing in England and was lucky enough to find one (this was about 8 years ago). Bought it, bolted it on, and the fit was excellent. But for some reason, the wing does not have a hole drilled in the rain gutter for... MORE
Wes I know where you're coming from here. My dash was in pretty poor condition, with extra holes. Some PO who seemed to think there was a need to light his cigarette's on the move put a cigaratte Lighter in the hole where the ignition went, sadly for me, the cigarette lighter was larger than the ignition, so the hole was widened out by about 1/4" all the way round. Another PO who wanted to see how well his battery was charging put an ammeter in the space where the MG Badge went, this was then moved to the... MORE
try swapping the plug leads round to suit the correct firing order then (1,3,4,2?) - a bit easier than ending up with the distributor pointing somewhere inaccessible. David "David Jacobs" 27261... MORE
Nelson... Well, "knock" is pretty well tied to compression ratios and timing along with octanes of course, but you already know this. You are looking at a cam with numbers similiar to a Kent #276. The lift numbers may be the other way around but this is a minor point (usually a bit more lift for exhaust rather than inlet, when cam is assymetric, 'cause exhaust valve is smaller I guess?). This is a very fast road cam, similiar to what an APT VP3 or Kent #286 would be for a 1275, more or less. Minimum compression ratio for... MORE
From: Richard Rivenbark [mailto: rrivenbark@... ] Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2003 4:37 PM To: Midgetsprite; Spridgets Cc: David Lieb Subject: [midgetsprite] 1275 coil update Thanks to all for the help, especially David Lieb. Yes, the ground strap was connected to the engine. And yes I have 12.1 Volts on the positive connection to the coil. It appears that I have a bad condenser (and the points needed to be cleaned). If I measure continuity where the points actually make contact I can watch the continuity come-and-go as they open and close. If I measure continuity at the spade connector... MORE
Thanks to all for the help, especially David Lieb. Yes, the ground strap was connected to the engine. And yes I have 12.1 Volts on the positive connection to the coil. It appears that I have a bad condenser (and the points needed to be cleaned). If I measure continuity where the points actually make contact I can watch the continuity come-and-go as they open and close. If I measure continuity at the spade connector on the outside of the dizzy I get continuity all the time no matter whether the points are open or closed (continuous or "dead"... MORE
Later coils marked + & -, On cars wired with a negative ground system, these connections should be + to ignition switch, and - to distributor/contact points. "Brent Wolf" 27072... MORE
From: Brent Wolf [mailto: wolfbj@... ] Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2003 10:19 PM To: Richard Rivenbark; Spridgets; Midgetsprite Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: 1275 coil Later coils marked + & -, On cars wired with a negative ground system, these connections should be + to ignition switch, and - to distributor/contact points. "Duncan Sinclair" 27073... MORE
Lori I bought a 65 for restoration back in May, here on the civilised side of the pond (that should be good for a few replies) for the equivalent of $1000. Mine was a runner and was on the road in in March 2002, I would not have wanted to drive it though the floor was almost completely rotted out, rear spring hangers about to collapse no outer sills and inner sills rotted through. The car had been reinforced with angle iron and 1/8 plate some of which I was able to pull off with my bare hands. The... MORE
Ok...I get the Castrol 20w50 and put it in the engine. Crank her up and she hums just sweeeeet. So, I go out to drive her. When I push in the clutch she idles down way low like something's dragging on the engine and the little red ignition light comes on. I give her a little gas and we seem to be fine. No problems putting her into gear so I go for a drive around the block. I get to the end of the street and can't get her in first. I get her in second and we... MORE
