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What happenned to the spark plug. Explain what it looks like. You aren't being specific at all when you say it "killed it". Pa "Paul Asgeirsson" 33352... MORE
Jens... Dyno There ya' go!!! About time!!!! A dyno session(s) is part of a "tuned" engine rebuild. It's the last part, to be specific. The ignition advance curve (rate) is exactly opposite of what works in a mildly cammed stock engine, considering the cylinder filling characteristics (torque curve) of the "hairier" performance cam profile is "back to front" when compared to the stock cam. PCV valve Again, are you running the factory stock intake manifold mounted PCV valve fed from the can on the timing chain cover? If you are, and it is "new", it MAY be "NOS" or... MORE
"hard starter" Absolutely, Jens. Enough to ruin the engine in very short order. :( That's why my recent previous post was couched in strong terms as in..."get the job done". As little as 4 degrees over- advance can cause combustion temperatures that can burn through the piston crowns in about 10k miles. Ask me how I know :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33269... MORE
Coil should get warm, but not too hot to touch. If it is getting that hot it may be that as it heats up the insulation breaks down and the spark is failing. This would cause the misfire. Maybe you have 2 unrelated faults? Mixture and spark? Excuse me stating the obvious, but I always have to think hard about which way to screw the jet to richen or weaken the mixture. Lower the jet for richer isn't it - so its clock-wise as you look down at the carb. Guy "Guy Weller" 33255... MORE
Jens....STOP!!! Your chasing yourself in circles here. The variation in cooling temps with the mixture variations, along with appearance of the plugs and most of all, detonation/ pre-ignition (with octane changes thrown in for good measure) suggest the engine is operating on the borderline of self- destruction, in short time. Saving pennies on octane is extremely penny-wise, pound foolish. With a tuned unit utilizing high rpm's a good part of the time, "economzing" on octane can shortly become extremely expensive. Your "tuned" engine is an investment. Feed it a proper and appropriate "nutritional" diet. :):) May I suggest..... ...firstly,... MORE
Jens, If it is SUs then what you describe could be caused by worn throttle spindles. This makes the carbs seem very sensitive to mixture settings. If you richen the settings to compensate at low engine speeds, then at full throttle it will be too rich and will bog down or foul the plugs. If you weaken, then at full manifold depression it will pull in air at the spindle and run too weak, causing it to run hotter Guy "Guy Weller" 33249... MORE
Jens... What color are the plugs after you pull them out after a hard run? They should be chocolate brown (insulators) with the shell tinged carbon (dry) black, assuming "correct" timing, mixture and cooling system in reasonably good shape, etc. And what compression ratio are you running, BTW? On what octane #? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33252... MORE
Jens...."harder" (colder) spark plugs After you look after the carbs and intake system in general for vacuum (air) leaks, we should "re-visit" this topic. But, first things first for obvious reasons! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33251... MORE
G'day again Hammondale If they are new reproduction parts, then there is no surprise that they aren't made correctly. You would think that, if you were reproducing something, it would be just as easy to get it right as to get it wrong. Sadly this is seldom the case - most repro stuff isn't quite right.(I can hear Ed nodding in agreement right now.) But if you have only .006" play at the edge of the rotor, that is very little and not enough (in my opinion) to be concerned about short term. I would however feel/measure the play... MORE
brought the frogeye back to life tonight. First time it has started in the last year or so, but for the last 4 years it has only really run once a year to move to a new resting place. However this time it was a bit reluctant to start, and I found no spark so ran a hot wire from the fuse box to the +ve terminal of the coil and it fired up easily then. Interestingly when attempting to rev the engine it really did not want to know, and coughed and spluttered instead, this got better when... MORE
G'day Hammondale The recommended torque is 45 ft lbs, then to the next split pin hole. The slight play is most likely due to the hub being worn. As a consequence, the outer bearing races are close together than they should be and the inner races aren't seating properly on the ramps in the inner races. Got that? So why aren't they seating when you tighten the nut? Because the cast iron spacer is holding them apart. The solution is to machine a little off the spacer. You can use a lathe if one is avaailable, or a linisher,... MORE
Hi all, Is there a recommended torque setting for tightening down the nut on a front spindle to hold the disk brake rotor on? I have the old Brit Leyland ring-bound Spridget shop manual (circa 1970) and there's no torque spec in there. How tight is adequate, and how tight is too tight, i.e. shortening bearing life(?) or some other problem(?) Some background info for anyone patient enough to read - I've got the Frontline larger disc brakes installed, with all new wheel bearings, and yes, the bearing thrust orientations are correct. But seems like over the past year,... MORE
Ok so I've got to the point on my restoration where I wanted today to see if my '72 RWA would fire up. But no, Turns over superb but there just ain't no spark I have a new coil, leads, distributer cap and rota arm, new plugs, starter solonoid and so on Turning the engine over with a plug out place against the block gives no spark. Tracing it all the way back to the coil and just having the coil lead against the block still gives no spark Help please....... The wireing of the low tension is too... MORE
Anyone out there wanting a COMPLETELY rust free 79 Midget?? BTW, NO FINANCIAL INTEREST!! This is just too cheap to let go past without telling you guys. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2485001583 Ok, there is a bit of surface rust in the boot, between the spare the the rear panel, but the A pillars, rear wings, and front wings, are all in excellent shape. The floors are also nice and clean, the undercoating still all intact, not peeling anywhere that I noticed. As you all know, I don't normally seek out these cars, but....... I was out doing the yard sales today in... MORE
Hi Jim, The pertronix still has too many wires coming out of the dizzy and coil to look stock, but the Crane module can be mounted inside the car under the dash, too. Pa Hi Jim, Meant that to apply to points that fail in a week. Sorry for the confusion. Both Pertronix and Crane are top notch units. I've just had such wonderful use with Crane, I have a bias towards them. I've noticed from the list that many have complained about the early failures of some Pertronix units. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32947... MORE
"We are in the process of relocating.... sporadic cell service" Ah...a "serious" matter, then. I'd go with Biff Jones idea for sure. A second distributor...all set up, spare spark plugs, spare fan belt, and a length of spare hose and ignition wire, spare fuel pump, and necessary small bag of tools. The all important flashlite of course and a portable starter/charger as well if you're really out there in the sticks. Of course... what will serve you best is a quality scheduled, preventive maintenance program (and the "right attitude" towards being "situationally aware" in terms of survival in the... MORE
Hi Jim, Meant that to apply to points that fail in a week. Sorry for the confusion. Both Pertronix and Crane are top notch units. I've just had such wonderful use with Crane, I have a bias towards them. I've noticed from the list that many have complained about the early failures of some Pertronix units. Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32912... MORE
Jim, I carry a complete distributor with the mount & sparkplug wires attached and timed. Should my Pertronics every fail all I have to do is swap it out . Two bolts and two wires and I'm good to go. I also carry a spare set of points in my travel kit. When a bunch of us are driving our cars you never know who might need roadside assistance. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in the "Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 32870... MORE
I used an Allison system on my daily driver for about 225,000 miles before it started to give a problem in very hot weather. Called the new owners, Crane, explained the problem, they sent a new system for the price difference of an upgrade. About 7 dollars. Been working perfectly ever since. I have complete confidence in it and never carry a spare dizzy. Neither a spare tire, for that matter for more than a half million miles! Tires are trouble free as are the Crane units. Don't buy cheap!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 32869... MORE
Thanks for the replies, I ordered a Pertronix system and coil. I've never been able to set the dwell to my satisfaction, I've owned the car for 20 years! I always got it running reasonably well. So now with the hot street engine I believe that the ignition could and should be improved on. Cap'n Bob I agree that electronics give no warning of an impending failure but elimination of a maintenance issue is worth it since my son will be driving it mainly. The other reason is the inferior parts that are available these days. Yeah I know... MORE
The dizzy is offset. so it only goes in one way. How do you like your petronix? "Chris" 32836... MORE
Bob, Do you use the Petronix Hall effect system? Which if I am not mistaken, still uses the mechanical and vacuum advance that the stock points system used, is that right? Chris "Chris" 32822... MORE
David, The A+ Dizzy needs some simple modifications. The shaft length on the A+ dizzy is slightly shorter. To get it to work you need to grind / turn about 1/4" off the thickness of the top flange of the collar that locates the drive shaft in position. Then you need to either file the main hole in the clamp bigger to fit the dizzy body, or turn a little off the dizzy until the clamp fits. The A+ dizzy comes with a different clamp - a forked affair but you don't use that. The end result on mine... MORE
Guy, will the pre A+ clamp arrangement such as is on our Spridgets fit onto this A+ type of distributor? I had an MG Metro years ago and remember this as being one of the differences, but I can't recall the details. David 32829... MORE
OK, I have a new Petronix for my 73 Midget. In putting it on, though technically I don't need to remove it, I will be pulling the distributor out to clean it really good. My question, is it "keyed" like on my "B" where it only goes back in 1 way, or will I need to mess with timing (tdc on 1 and all that crap)? Regards, TJ "TJ Tryon, Jr." 32834... MORE
