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Guys... Fellow lister Lester Ewing's posts are not reaching the list for whatever reason. He has asked me to advise all that he is looking for the following to complete his machine... 1. red ignition lens 2. red hi-beam lens (I thought these were blue?) 3. Original shifter knob Please reply to lewing@... THANK YOU! :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 36440... MORE
Or use the best of both worlds...fill it with grease, plug the end, then hit it with a torch...This would go with the recent cannon thread, wouldn't it? This is a joke!!! Do not try this at home! I am a train professional and you are not. I refuse to held responsible for your action no matter what I have written. YMMV "Jim" 36436... MORE
Jens, I agree with all the above and I might add that if it was running ok with oil pressure and no rattling sounds when put sleep, it should be ok now. The first thing I would do is to make sure if there is pressure or not. I would pull the plugs and add a little squirt of oil to allow the engine to turn over faster, pull coil wire and crank engine for at least 20 to 40 seconds. If no press, pull open an oil line, or pressure valve cap, and crank to see if oil... MORE
Let's see...it's been a week or so since Drew picked up Rick's '73 Midget in Vegas and drove it to the Seattle area. He took four days and his girl friend...she must have a great deal of faith in him to attempt such an adventure. I did get a couple of cell phone calls from him asking about this and that...you know, things like, "Why did it just stop running out here in the middle of nowhere?"...the usual questions. The first time turned out to be bad points...so bad he couldn't get any kind of gap. He ended up... MORE
I just happened to see this item advertised in the J. C. Whitney catalogue and it reminded me of a thread a few weeks ago. It is a magnet device that is attached to a big runner band that goes around your oil filter and it traps magnetic debris and is re useable. It is called a "Magna-Strap" part number SK7 10573 P. It sells for (you guessed it!) $19.95. Usual disclaimers, I have nothing to do with them etc. I just remember us talking abut finding magnets and JB welding them in plugs etc. Cheers, Bob in San... MORE
I finally got my old midget rollbacked over to my house where I work on it more conveniently! Got to find the ignition key, I wonder what my best options are if I can't locate it? Anyone know what electronic ignition costs for the midget? "jcjr7" 36326... MORE
Hi Cap'n. Just make your own. Get some of the round ceramic magnets that mosy hardware stores have for sale and with a dab of JB Weld on the plug, you've now got a wonderful magnetic plug! The dif plug has a flat surface, so only needs a drop or so on it and place the magnet on it. Let it harden a few hours and use it. The Brit trans plug has a deep recess, so takes just a little bit more JB, Then put the magnet in the recess, let it set and now you have a... MORE
I just had a look at a new one I still have in the box ... and the instructions appear to be correct.. as for trying to undo the plug on the end... I believe that is the end of a transistor.. it uses the aluminum fins as a heat sink so I would not mess with it... mitch "prest_m" 36271... MORE
stewart you are correct to use 35 amp fuse.i am nearly sure the fuse in question protects indicators,fuel gauge and heater blower and operates when ignition switch is on.i had a similar problem on my 1977 1500 midget and found the problem was caused by worn wires on the indicator stalk shorting. to rectify,unscrew four screws that secure the cowls to the steering column remove lower cowl then move upper cowl in anti-clockwise direction round steering column,depress horn slip-ring contact and ease the cowl off the column.remove clip holding the switch wiring harness to the steering column and disconect... MORE
Stewart, if it's the same as late 1275 ones, then the front fuse protects the stuff that's not controlled by the ignition switch i.e. is live all the time - horns, interior and boot lamps, cigar lighter. It should be rated at 17 amps continuous, 35 amp blow. Both horns and courtesy lamps have permanently live feeds (purple wire) with the earth side being switched, so a purple wire is a good start for finding the likely culprit. David "David Jacobs" 36239... MORE
A fault from 16 years ago is back to haunt me.. The car is a 1975 MG midget 1500 RHD. The bottom fuse of the 4 keep on blowing, although not always immediately. By the bottom one I mean the one closest to the front of the car, I suppose I should ask what rating it should be, but as it has a 35 amp fuse in I doubt its going to be much higher!. If my memory serves me correctly this fuse would blow regularly when I had the car last on the road in 1988, and apart... MORE
I just got a sabelt three point racing harness at a british swap meet with the intention of fitting it to the stock seat belt mounting points on my 1971 mg midget. I got home and noticed a small problem. The belt that extends behind the seat to the rear point is too long. Is it at all reccomended to alter the length of a seat belt in such a way that it requires sewing? Would such alterations still be safe? "gan5ub91179g" 36225... MORE
IMHO, this is not a good idea. There are some things that a "Shade Tree Mechanic" can do, after all, I are one, but there are some parts to the LBC that might be better left to a "British Car Mechanic." As far as your list, Wouldn't a simple "I'll pay you $50-$100, you look it over, turn it over, try to start it, check brakes, etc, and 1. tell me what you think, and 2. give me an estimate as to what you think it needs, what the parts and labor to do will be, and if agreed... MORE
I have one origonal speaker and an origonal radio installed in the radio console under the dash in front of the gearshift. I can hear it over the engine just fine, but my knee kept hitting the volume knob so that now the rado functons but I have to jiggle the knob to get it working. I just installed two more speakers in holes placed in the masonite bulkhead behind the seats (the one that forms a barrier between the trunk and the cabin) that were cut before I owned it. That seems like a good place but It... MORE
Well.... haven't tried this myself but no reason why it shouldn't work as advertised. I don't know whether the "competition" or mechanical race distributor curve is still available but certainly, the "40819" Cooper S curved mechanical dizzy should be right at home in this environment I would think. Emissions laws vary from state to state here in the US. In CT, they don't check under the hood unless a car doesn't pass. Then you better have everything hooked up and operational as well or your registration will ultimately be denied. Once the car reaches the ripe old age of... MORE
Has anyone tried the modifications listed in the bl st manual? I mean adding twin hs4 SU carbs, a race distributor (part number C-27H7766), a head with 9.5:1 compression, and a free flow exhaust? The performance figures make this look tempting. Too bad I dont see anything about gas milege or emissions (in the unites staes this can be an issue. "gan5ub91179g" 36012... MORE
I'm so proud of myself...I'm sitting here patting myself on the head because I can't reach my back. After nearly a year of my poor little car sitting on jack stands with the front end in the air, I finished the assembly of the front end with poly bushings, new lever shocks and springs. I had to replace one "A" arm due to wear from the folcrum pin...if you don't do any other maintenance on your car, make sure you lube the front end regularly!!! I also installed a lowering kit with the new coil springs - it was... MORE
"Location of timing marks, etc." Exactly....A humungous, giant PITA if there ever was one. Why would it have been designed this way??? I just don't get it. One of the main reasons I "lost" the points and went electronic (set it, forget it). What did they figure??? You'd have it up on a lift changing the oil so this would be a convenient place at that time, or what?? A pox upon the designer!! Cap'n Bob (Timing marks relocated) '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35992... MORE
I rebuild mine and consider myself a C- mechanic. After jacking up the R side, it is accessed thru the large rubber plug on the R side of the tunnel. For me it was just time consuming since you'll have to bleed afterwards. One trick I used was to put a piece of plastic wrap (rubber banded) around the top of the master before you open the bleed nipple on the slave, as this will keep most of the fluid in the system instead of on your garage floor. You will still have to bleed the system, but at... MORE
Same plug wires when he changed the coil? Did he validate that only one plug is not firing (by moving the timing light pickup from wire to wire)? I would expect a bad wire to be consitant but stranger things have happened to me. "Jim" 35984... MORE
Hi Jim, Rubber band the trigger on the timing light, prop it in place with blocks and with your wife's vanity mirror laying on the ground, you hardly need to stoop down to see the marks as you rotate the dizzy!! Yes, I have a vanity mirror in my tool box!!! Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 35987... MORE
Yup, Jim, lay on your back and look up at the timing cover - that's where the indicator is. It can be done by one person if you keep the distributor clamp snug and move it in very small increments. You may find that the mark "floats" all over the place (commonly known as "timing scatter" in an engine with some miles on it). Just pick the mid point of the scatter for your timing point. "Jim" 35974... MORE
My cousin Donald in Irving is having a problem with his 1997 Ford F150 pick 'em up truck. It's a V-6 and after driving about 15 minutes, his #3 cylinder starts to miss. He's changed plugs, wires, and now was attempting to change the coil. On these trucks the coil and dist. cap are made in one unit apparently? Anyway, he got a replacement coil and enstalled it and no joy, the truck would not even start. Put the old one back on, it runs but misses after 15 minutes. He went back to the auto supply and got... MORE
"The Modern Toolbox" Hammer - In ancient times a hammer was used to inflict pain on ones enemies. Modern hammers are used to inflict pain on oneself. Screwdriver - The drink ordered at the local bar after you call in a professional repairman to undo the $500 in damage you did while trying to change out a tail light socket in your newly painted car with your handy screwdriver. Phillips Screwdriver - The bar drink that you order when the damage estimate is over $1,000. Contains twice the vodka. Pliers - A device used to extend your reach the... MORE
About how much did it cost? Do you save anything by doing the prep? Or does it just make the final result better? I am thinking about having them paint my old Honda plug around car. Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 35797... MORE
