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Dear Listers, Based on traffic lately I don't know who's out there but here goes anyway: My brake light switch has passed on. Ordered a new one from Vicky B and have run into a problem. The manuals I have (Haynes and Official Shop) want one to unscrew the pedal box surround to get the clearance necessary to screw in the new switch without interference. Sounds OK but on inspection it appears my surround is welded down. Short of breaking the welds I don't see any way to screw in the new switch without hammerassing (sp?) it in and... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
Some may remember my telling of my purchase on Ebay of an Haynes MGB manual, and a Haynes Weber manual (includes SU and Stromberg) at a good price. Well, the seller, Bookmarz, has apparently just given them to me free. I tracked them when they didn't show up in 10 days, and got a form letter email back telling me how to trace the shipment on their web page. I waited a couple of days and tried again, and when no info showed on the tracking site, I emailed a complaint. They sent the same form letter again and... MORE
Mike, My 75 had the manual choke but I would recommend using a stock set up first and then make improvements. Manual conversion kits are readily available from Vicky B anyway. You SHALL NOT remove the gearbox unless thou has first shifted the motor to a special place........... outside the car. If you're sticking with the Stromberg definitely buy the tool. Rob C-FINALLY enjoying his Midget Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37913... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
I need to replace the exhaust manifold on my 74 Midget and although I see several come up on ebay they are different from the two types listed in the manuals for the midget. They all seem to face forward with a clamp type fixing while all the catalogues and pics I have seen show either a rear facing clamp or forward facing bolt fixing. Is there another type or are they from a different car? "Bruce" 37776... MORE
Mike, I've done just fine on my 1975 as an automotive know-nothing with a Haynes manual and the official shop manual which is available as a reprint I believe. Haynes is better at explaining things and the official manual has better and more comprehensive pix. Good luck and minimal sprite bites.33 Rob C-FINALLY enjoying his 75 MG Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37727... MORE
How 'bout this: We've all got a box or two or three full of parts which are "Not Good Enough to Use, But Too Good to Throw Away". If we all cleaned out our garages, we could prolly come up with a few tons of stuff which we could box up and send to Bree. Somebody would probably also have a shop manual with most of the pages in it, and she could knit herself an LBC. For example, I've got a half dozen cans with an inch or two of paint in the bottom. The cars which belonged... MORE
UH...two reasons.. 1) I read the Haynes manual which says that up to .006" is okay. 2) *Just* one cylinder was near that. 3) Stupid - Choose whichever one you like best "joe blxfstz" 37652... MORE
Andy.... Brad says you've got a '67 and he oughta know. The '67 had the "early" thin-flange 1275. And most likely it is the standar d high compression (this would be the "H" in the engine #) 8.8-1 motor. The "good stuff"!! This motor was most likely equipped with the #40819 Cooper "S" spec. Lucas 23D mechanical advance only distributor and even better, most likely the rare a nd much sought after EN40 (bulletproof) steel crankshaft. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37613... MORE
The Haynes manual is ok for the gearbox, but not really adequate for a complete rebuild of the diff. You need all the crown wheel and pinion setting information, most of which is in the factory manual; however, even this source has a couple of critical bits of info missing, which are the sizes of gauge blocks for setting the crownwheel and pinion positions. However, you can easily go some way to taking up some of the slack and at little cost, too. The thrust washers for the spider gears can be replaced without too much difficulty. Let me... MORE
There's more than one way to skin this cat, including doing it yourself with the help of some shop manuals. The Haynes manual is probably adequate. Your local machine shop might be entirely competent to repair/rebuiild your tranny and diff. Then again they may not be. You could try just asking them whether they are competent. If they really are a good shop, they will tell you the truth. Amother, probably better, alternative would be to send both the tranny and diff to someone who has done many of these. I think it's likely that would produce the best... MORE
New to the Yahoo group, hello and thanks in advance... Has anyone out there had experience with 7 or 8 port cylinder heads? Vizard's guide has a whole 3 paragraphs on the subject, Stapleton has one! I came across an old issue of Retro Cars (May '04) that reviewed A series engine tuning and and turned me onto this option. I've gone to Mini-Spares UK website and priced the unit ($$$- but cheaper than the K-series engine swap, which would be way too hard to do living Stateside). I've viewed Bill Richards Racing website and read about how he... MORE
Stewart, If I recall, my 1500 shop manual gives 16 mph/1000 rpm in 4th with a 3.9. I remember the number 'cause at 70 mph I am NOT comfortable with the kind of revs required! Thread locker works great! Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37340... MORE
The Haynes manual is quite good, available at most car parts stores, and not too expensive. "joe blxfstz" 37151... MORE
While trying to reassemble the head of a 1500cc midget I managed to strip the thread of a nut. I hadn't crossed the thread. I was using a Torque wrench and was at least 10% under the Haynes manual recommend torque of 46lbf ft. (I was very relieved when I found out it was just the nut cause I had assumed it would be the stud.) I was now going to replace all of the nuts, does any one know the thread size? Is there any where I can find out thread sizes for various items? Also I presume... MORE
Hello, Well it's a sad day I have to sell my Sprite. Life and school don't seem to agree with my little English car. Here is a list of all the goodies that it has: Some details are: Engine 1089cc bored .040 over Intake valve is 1 5/16"(Rimflow) Exhaust valve is1 1/16 (Rimflow) The head has been ported and has a 10:1 compression ratio. The cam specs are duration @ .020 (In./Ex.) 268-272. Rockers ratio is 1.5:1 Duplex adjustable cam gear Also has Isky duel value springs. Pistons are flattop Hepolites Heavy-duty radiator/with 10" fan Twin HS2s with red... MORE
"Oils ain't oils" Cheapo oil is exactly that...good base stock without benefit of the major mfgr's additive packages which make it "better" in preventing formation of acids, foaming, varnish/deposits, etc., etc., blah, blah, blah. While the tolerences within our older engines were spec'd with petroleum based oils in mind...viscosity as much if not moreso, as film strength being in mind as a "boundary" between parts ................a quart of synthetic within 3 of petroleum can only be a good thing in terms of upgrad ing the mix by "reinforcing" film strength while adding "slipperiness" to t he whole. I HAVE... MORE
Hi: I have been lurking for a few days, just purchased a 1979 Midger and am sure will have several questions. The first problem is that the keyis very hard to turn from the unlocked to the locked postion. Have any of you had any luck removing the lock switch and repairing and reinstalling it. The manual speaks of shear bolts that would need to be replaced. TIA Vern Vern 36886... MORE
Ok I just finished re assembling the engine on my US Spec 1971 MG Midget after replacing th econrod bearings, honing the cylinders, and replacing the rings. I know I need to break her in easy, but how do I do that? "gan5ub91179g" 36878... MORE
Gavin... I know little about 1500's and nothing about European spec types however, I 'd not be driving the car with a fuel leak in the engine compartment. Not as bad as a Series A wherein the exhaust/carbs reside on the same side of the engine nor a situation wherein the higher pressures of fuel injection may be involved but....not a good idea nontheless. Pick up from your supplier an SU carb overhaul kit. This will contain the n ew gaskets/seals you no doubt will need to put a stop to the fuel leak, assuming it is from the... MORE
I have a 1500 US Spec and had that same occurance a long time ago. I thought I had a vapor lock so I did the old shade tree trick. I walked over to the closest stop-n-rob (mini market which sells petrol for you guys on the other side of the pond) and got my self a bag of ice. I iced down the carbs and the ignition module. i noticed that was a bit hot as well. 15 minutes of that, it was ready to go. Well, 2 years later after driving her on a 90 mile round... MORE
Rebuilt the ZS on my 79 this weekend. Using the Haynes manual, got all the adjustments correct until I came to the part about CO2 levels and the air screw part. I went to my local old car mechanic and asked if he had a CO2 monitor I could use. He looked at me like I had two heads. "Nope, haven't used one of those in ten years or so." My question is, how do I adjust the setting of the air screw without a monitor? I kinda set it where it ran okay, but I like being exact... MORE
