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Loopy Chris says .Not quite sure if I can get the ariel lead underneath the car as I think( could be totally wrong though and I've got the wrong end of the stick!) to be legal in this country, it has to be a certain distance ( im talking a fair space here , not a couple of inches) from any fuel tank or line , in case it causes a spark or something. Chris, Put some old jeans on and look under you car at the back. Look just in fron t of the fuel tank and you... MORE
Listers - (sounds like something you call people after a night on a booze cruise) I finally got my car home, created a folder in the photo section ("Ricks 75") and uploaded a photo... Figured out what caused the PO from finishing the restoration, he had snapped 2 bolts off while removing the passenger side front shock for some reason, soaking in WD40 for a couple of days and small amount of heat and the stubs came right out. The car is in supprisingly good shape (for Wisconsin), the previous owner towed it up from New Mexico, so it... MORE
I have just been given a lathe. Something I have always wanted, but have never used one before. Can anyone recommend a basic manual. Presumably there are guidelines on what speed / what cutting tool / steel grade / lubricant / to use for cutting different metals? Guy "Guy Weller" 30371... MORE
Nigel wrote ...'original specification'. I pretty much want mine as if it's just rolled out of a showroom - a new car - but that's just me. ************************************************************ Carful Nigel, that sounds like concours language to me LOL Alan "Alan" 29354... MORE
Alan I think the 'originality' v 'personalisation' discussion has been done to death on here and then some! I've pretty much accepted now that owners will 'personalise' their cars to some degree or another and that 'one-size-fits-all' simply doesn't work. I seem to be very much in the minority strangely enough in wanting to put mine back to 'original specification'. I pretty much want mine as if it's just rolled out of a showroom - a new car - but that's just me. Regarding the sills, personally, I think not having that black strip looks visually 'odd'. I don't... MORE
Terry... I agree with Nigel asking you why all this for bulb replacement but I will answer to the extent I can 'cause obviously it's already out of the car!! :):) OK... 1. Yes (O-ring, gasket, rubber washer, bit of silicone, whatever! :) 2. Have not seen an O-ring between instrument and panel before. But I don't see why you could not do this, either. 3. White/sky blue...don't know 4. Innard out...don't recall..too long ago! :) 5. Reset rod broken...maybe. Mine ends in a little knob (most likely set into that small slot you see?) 6. As I recall,... MORE
!500 rocker covers are red normally (for some weird reason) mine has the UK spec silver rocker cover, but the rest is a pinkish red,a and metallic, although I have yet to clean it off properly.. Stewart "Ford Prefect" 29151... MORE
8G 180 N is listed in the Spridget parts book as 'Engine Unit - Stripped - HC' and is basically the UK or early US spec 1275 standard engine. I'm not sure what difference the 'ER'suffix makes, though. Regards David "David Jacobs" 29142... MORE
Hi Rick Welcome to the list, and well done on your bravery on buying a load of bits that's meant to be a car! You don't say if you're in the US or UK (apologies to other list members in other countries) but the majority of list members are from one or other of these two countries. I mainly use Moss (www.moss-europe.com) for the simple reason they pretty much have any part you may want under the same roof. I wouldn't say they were the best (and other list members have their own favourites) but I've found them to... MORE
Greetings - I recently have become the proud owner of a pile of parts that I'm told when assembled is a 75 MG Midget, the previous owner was planning on restoring the car but never got past the dismantling portion of the restoration. I am in the gathering information stage of the project, hope to have the car home in the garage in the next couple of weeks. I was hoping anyone out there would give me any parts suppliers that they would recommend? Also was looking for recommendations on any reference repair manuals anyone on the list has... MORE
Greatings - I've recently become the proud owner of a pile of parts that when assembled I'm told will be a 75 MG Midget. Previous owner disassembled the car for restoration, but never got to it. Been a long time since I've been active in the MG scene, restored a 69 MGB with my father when I was a teenager back in the early 80's. Wanted some feedback from fellow Midget owners, I'm gathering info and catalogs for all the bits I'll want to be ordering and wanted any comments on parts suppliers that anyone favors along with any... MORE
I'll leet Nigel answer this one Cap'n but .... If you are talking about the plate I think you are, then according to what I have seen, and backed up by Horler, the plate was rectangular on all cars up to the 1275, at which point it became oval. I am sure that I will now be corrected as I am probably wrong! On another subject, I took the Cap'n's advice and bought the book on engines by Vizard. A fascinating read. I will be undertaking some of those mods. My aim is to look original on the outside... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
Hi Jim- Regret that I did not put them side to side. Peter May made up the springs for me to my specs. Car actually sits a bit lower than factory spec, which is what I wanted. But is still set up for road use. Can E-mail pics if you would like. Had a number of "discussions" with Moss parts gurus about their springs. They know the height is all wrong! They told me the car would "settle" in time and look a bit more "normal". They also offered to sell me a lowering kit, God bless them. Hope... MORE
Jim, After moving the stands from the axle to the floor (near the rear suspension mounting points), I walked around the car and suddenly noticed the front floating above the stands (positioned under the front chassis legs...) So the car was performing an unexpected balancing act :-) and almost tilted to the rear. If this had happened it would for sure have fallen off the stands! I immediately increased the front weight by putting a number of heavy items on the front chassis legs! Afterwards I moved the stands to the boot-floor. The car is completely stripped in the... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
Trev... Used acrylic enamel with a polyurethane hardner on my old PO'd MGB 30 years or so ago. Followed directions in a Peterson "How to Paint...." softcover manual. Came out beautifully, lasted forever. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28765... MORE
Abestea I think it depends a little on which bits you want, but the whole of the front chassis is available as an 'assembly', but I'm sure you can get the individual bits of the assembly, specially as Heritage are remaking the body shells. It really is useful to get one of the Moss 'Parts Manuals' which contains part numbers and prices for every single part you would ever need. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 28698... MORE
Mark, Haynes puts the spec for Federal cars at 125 psi. They all should be close to that. When I first bought my 1975 the compression test was an early indicator of the kind of fun (and expense) I was in for. ROb C Webfoot Leisure.com rob@... 630-841-6077 robbiesg@... 28704... MORE
Jim, I think Nigel & I use much the same system, although I would remove the whole lot, axle and springs as a single unit. It is easy enough for one person to manage. Jack the car up and support on axle stands close to, but not obstructing, the mounting plates for the front end of the rear springs. Use a timber support to spread the load if you can, but it isn't really essential. Get it reasonably high enough to give working space underneath. Support the axle on a trolly jack under the centre point of the diff.... MORE
Well... With no intent to be a wise-guy, ass-u-me(ing) it's all mechanically in decent shape...what's the problem? The timing specs are in the book whether it's the Cooper S mech. dizzy or the later vac. one, right? So are the carb. set-up directions. You MAY need an SU carb jet centering tool (much better than using the carb. needle shank) and a portable hand held tach so as to positively "see" that slight momentary rise in rpm as you lift the air valve 1/8" or so off the jet bridge and a Unisyn (or the like) to positively "see"... MORE
Filled with Castrol 20w/50. If you ask me for my gut reaction to the problem, I'd say no, it is not fully disengaging. But I don't know how that is possible. I think I am getting maximum travel from my clutch, and the release lever is tight when the clutch is not depressed. Also, slave travel is within spec (by what I have been told). But it sure acts to me like it is not totally disengaging..... Paul "dfwip" 28595... MORE
I decided I was bulletproof against the cold and refitted the head and all that stuff and the car started! How about that!!! That 45dcoe is giving me a flat spot the size of Grand Canyon! Always had one, but it seems worse now. Cam + cold I guess. I will chart the numbers and ask around. They came from Vizard's second book. Now I can bundle up (old farts don't like it at 50 degrees ABOVE zero) and drive it. I even have a scuba head thingy if I get too cold. Too funny! Maybe I'll glue a... MORE
Hi listers. First the question: I see that there are seperate part numbers for the front and rear sump/pan seals (those cork strips). I just got a Payen lower engine gasket kit and both strips looked the same to me. It didn't occur to me that they were supposed to be different so I didn't inspect too close and put them in randomly. Both protruded at least a 1/4" (probably more) at both ends when put in their sump grooves. Should the excess be cut off? If so how much? Or are they just supposed to compress? Now the... MORE
