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Does anyone have the measurements between the 6 points on the shocks on a 1975 midget. I live in a very small town and the body shops here don't have any type of information on mg's. My midget has more problems than I first thought. I replaced the negative camber bushings in the lower a-arms with a new set of stock ones, checked the distance between the lower a-arms after buying a shop manual from Moss, checked the spindle, and removed and checked the shock mounts to see if they had been played with and still have too much... MORE

Does anyone have the measurements between the 6 points on the shocks on a 1975 midget. I live in a very small town and the body shops here don't have any type of information on mg's. My midget has more problems than I first thought. I replaced the negative camber bushings in the lower a-arms with a new set of stock ones, checked the distance between the lower a-arms after buying a shop manual from Moss, checked the spindle, and removed and checked the shock mounts to see if they had been played with and still have too much... MORE

David... The 3.7 diffs were supposed to be of lighter construction than the previous 3.9's and 4.22's, though I have never had a problem with either the 3.9 or 3.7 in normal street daily driving, and that goes for my 90+HP @ the rear wheels Vizardized '74, my Judson blown '67 and my current Cooper S spec. 1293. With respect to "transfer of power", none of these cars were driven abusively. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23460... MORE

"I am building a 1275 to the specs of my 1340 Cooper S that I had in the UK. I had the cam ground close to the 731 cam that I had in that motor. It will have a big valve head and cooper s distributor. It is .030 over. I have several leather hides and decided to cover all panels and dash with that. I put floors, lt rocker and A post piller sections back in it plus a new bonnet. (Since buying a bonnet I bought a 68 with an excellent bonnet for $400.) Oh well. All... MORE

just purchased a 68 midget. the water/oil gauge does not work and want to repair or replace it. In doing so, I wanted to remove the dash to give me easier access to the faulty gauge but cant find how the top of the dash is attached to the car. service manuals talk about four screws along the top of the dash but haven't found them. any suggestions on how to approach this? "MARK " 23355... MORE

I forgot to mention, whomever that buys this car gets Lindsay Porter restoration manual, Haynes manual, and Shop manual for FREE! This car also has a clear WA title, currently registered. "yucholian" 23308... MORE

When you operate the starter, do the lights dim? If so check your battery. When the ignition switch contacts failed on another of my cars, I removed the cowl and put a jumper across the two terminals on the back of the switch after looking at the wiring diagram to establish which colours the relevant wires were. (Workshop Manual) Another indicator that the switch is going (although different contacts) is that the engine will miss a few beats, particularly when the engine is pulling, for example up hill, leading to a bit of Kangerooing. This is usually caused by... MORE

I can only suggest that you look on the internet and find out where the most local midgesprite and MG Car Club meetings are (oh yes, the MG owners club too) and go along and have a look at some of the cars. You will probably find enthusiasts who live near to you who would be only too willing to help. All those who I have met over the years have been very friendly/helpful and willing to share their knowledge of these cars with fellow enthusiasts. You do not need to know much - just be willing to learn.... MORE

Wood & Pickett do a kit for the Mini, it could probably be adapted. Moss and /or Minispares should sell it in the UK. Whether you want to get rid of the manual winder is another thing. Remember, electric windows always fail in the down position just before a period of heavy rain. I guess you could take the handle off and leave it in the boot. jeremy.cogman@... 23090... MORE

Tracey.... Welcome and congrats on your newly acquired MG Midget. Get on to "Amazon" or favorite book store and pick up a Bentley AND Haynes manual on these cars as your best guide and source of information on your vehicle for both you and any mechanic that may work on it. You can't do anything without proper information. And we're here to help you along.... purrfect! :) You do like cats, right? This is very important along with some knowledge and or a liking for guns and beer! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23049... MORE

I have a 74 MG Midget, I already know it's been pieced together from SEVERAL different year cars, but I have run all the wires down and come up with two that have no where to go. One is Blue with a female connector on it, the other is Green/Purple with a male connector on it. I have checked the wiring diagrams in the Hayes manual and another English manual (it's red can't think of who it's by) and neither of them show these wires. There are two possibilities in my mind, one being horns (none installed) the other... MORE

David, in my parts manual (origninal B.M.C.) and in my Factory workshop manual, they are called ventilators. Incidentaly, they are also called ventilators in the original sales literature for the Mk2 Midget. I always called them quaterlights, but according to my other parts books, quaterlights are what they are called at the back of the window on four door cars. R. "Roger Stinson" 22933... MORE

Hi, The bulb for the flasher unit, according to my Brown & Gammons catalogue covering Midget 1275 & 1500 and Sprite Mk 4 is part no. 57H382, but I'm sure that any bulb of the right rating with the same fixing method would suffice. As for the green cover on the dash, I can't find it in any of the catalogues or manuals I have. Perhaps you could use a piece of green perspex and glue it in place? Not original I know, but needs must!! Margaret South Lincolnshire UK mmbrock88@... 22873... MORE

Hi Bob, The restrictor inserted in the hose from the oil separator is a modification and not a stock part rather a jerry rig piece of a standard plumbing compression fitting he used to restrict the line, so it was not an official California set up. All I know to do is return it to the direct hose and see how it runs. Although curiosity leads me to wonder why he did it. If I recall correctly in 74 model year the pancake looking PVC valve on top the intake manifold was deleted and the Y connector to the... MORE

Once again faced with mystery PO modifications. These have to do with the emission controls. First, particularly on California cars, one must find a proper diagram of the system, something the weak of heart should not attempt from a Haynes Manual. The car in question is a 74 Midget I assume with a stock 1275 First discrepancy . . . The manual, if correct, shows a hose from the valve cover to one of three hose connections on top of the evaporation canister, check . . . that is there. Another hose goes to the gas tank vapor collection... MORE

"Waxstat" devici. I guess they came up with a better way of fuel temperature compensation in the HIF series....like they've got some sort of a fuel temperature sensitive "disc" in there which basically does the same thing? Even so, Vizard states the carb. has a tendency to intially run "lean" when you put your foot in it, after engine compartment temps. have gotten really hot....as in slow travel in heavy traffic, etc. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 22772... MORE

Hi all: I have a really nice 1964 Beach F Vee Mk 5, serial number V-16 that is monoposto legal (fan, generator, new Dunlops with z-bar rear suspension) and with two races on a fresh motor that I would like to swap for a Spridget Vintage racer (anything from spec sprite on up to an H, G or F Prod car). I have been asking $5800 for the Beach, but would consider an offer in the mid to low $5K range or preferably a Spridget trade. If you have ever wanted to run an open wheel car here is... MORE

"Thanks Bob & Allen for the education" (You owe me big time, Don May!!:):) Assuming it's a stock 1275 you are looking at Don, the correct model of the 45DCOE for the set-up is 45DCOE13. The DCOE is my favorite performance carb. I got mine initially when the shafts of the stock SU's my PO'd '74 started leaking air and needed rebuilding. I figured what the hell and sprung for the 45DCOE tuned for the stock 1275, instead. Glad I did. Worked just fine right out of the box, with the addition of a "deep" K&N filter. Subsequently, the... MORE

Don... Dave Vizard's excellent book goes into the "differences" in good detail. Usually, the Weber sidedraught carbs. are utilized along with other performance upgrades such as cam, inlet valve size increase, flowed heads, etc., though they can be used on the stock mechanically sound motor, the benefit in the latter case mostly confined to more "quick response" rather than a true "power" increase due to scads more aiflow available by larger throats. The operative word in the foregoing is "mechanically sound". The engine in question has got to be developing good vacuum for the Weber is a "fixed venturi"... MORE