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Terry... Original manufacturer's workshop manuals do not grow on trees. Here in the States they ran about US60+ when sold new from a dealer way back when they were available in the car's later years. Bentley manuals are usually pretty much of a reprint of the factory maintenance manuals and can be had more cheaply, though at about US50 when new I believe. So it seems to me, the price of L25 is a good deal. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26321... MORE

Perfect spec. for the cam...perfect, Martyn.!~!:) Enjoy! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26307... MORE

I have not seen the manual but what happens when the main hydraulic system fails is the leveling suspension system and the brake system are on the same hydraulic line from the main reservoir. When the car is moving it is in the up leveling position so the pressure from the weight of the car lowering after main hydraulic system failure provides enough hydraulic pressure for the braking system to come to a safe immediate stop. Immediate being the key word. Once the car lowers nothing but the emergency brake works. Don "Don May" 26305... MORE

Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE

Hi Bree.... Sounds like a problem with the automatic choke part of the system, Bree (aka "cold run" circuit). Electronics are involved and so "correct adjustment" (or part(s) replacement) is more or less a "specialist" or dealer affair. Of course, there could be a part within which is giving such symptoms and the "cold run" system just "looks the culprit". Not as simple to diagnose as a carb with manual choke...not at all. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26271... MORE

Colin, Alan, etal, The combustion chamber on the 295 head should be 28.3cc according to the 'factory' specs. I tried cc'ing my 12G295 head and got 28 + cc's. The syringe I used was only gradulated in cc's so what the + factor was I'm not sure. It took more than 28 cc's and less than 29cc's. That measurement plus the deck height measurement you provided told me the one I have hasn't been shaved/machined/milled. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye, 'Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie' http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 26222... MORE

A couple of weeks ago I mentioned that I had started a webpage that contains scanned-in out-of-print BMC, Lucas, and other manuals. Since then several folks have taken it upon themselves to email me scanned pages of booklets they own (including a couple of early Spridget special tuning manuals), and I have assembled them into .pdfs and added them to the page. Take a look... http://www.1978mgmidget.com/manuals_and_booklets.html Steve 78 Midget "Steven Michelsen" 26183... MORE

Rob Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. I think you are suffering a little from the 'grass is always greener' syndrome though : ) If it's any consolation, I think you did the right thing as well ! I can't tell you how many times I've muttered under my breath the well known phrase 'never again' never again' it's almost like a mantra to me now. Of course it's nice to be able to fully strip the car, rebuild/repaint and reassemble it, that has to be the ideal, but let me tell you it is by far... MORE

OK...went to Autozone and had this choice....Castrol "Manual Clutch Fluid" or Castrol DOT 4 ABS brake fluid. I didn't see anything LMT- GA. Is that the same as the manual clutch fluid? Don't worry. I didn't buy anything yet. "Virginia" 26001... MORE

I have just finished putting together the beginnings of a little library of out-of-print LBC-related manuals and booklets from the 60's and beyond. Have a look at http://www.1978mgmidget.com/manuals_and_booklets.html and see if there is anything of any interest to you. Some of these books are courtesy of "Ian F" of Auckland, New Zealand, who scanned in the pages and emailed them to me. Ian tells me he has some more obscure documents - I suspect we will be adding to the page, and the collection, down the road... Steve 78 Midget Steven Michelsen 25947... MORE

My guess would be "Yes", Bob... With ALCOHOL/water injection. Stock HC 1275's run only 8.8-1 and the Turbo Metros ran higher. They also had forged pistons but the stock Spridget piston while cast, is a pretty strong item as they take low pressure supercharging (with appropriate 100RON gasoline) without a problem. This would be up to 7psi. Intercooling makes a big difference but alcohol/water really "brings back" the leaded 100+RON octanes of yesterday. This stuff injected in appropriate amounts really cools down the combustion process. The Turbo Metro head uses the larger 1.4 intake valves I think. For more... MORE

I tried to start the beast after many years and have no spark. I have put new points in and gapped them to spec, checked for voltage at the dizzy- 12 volts, checked the primary windings on the coil - low resistance, the wires all show continuity from end to end. My most likely suspect is the coil since I'm skeptical of the resistance readings, should have had some shouldn't it? Thanks. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 25817... MORE

mine used to stick in first (the lever used to go 'too far' and it wouldn't come back without a lot of force) and I tracked it down to a worn plunger in the first/second gear assembly. (see factory manual fig F5 item 1) I think the plunger is meant to hold the gear in position on the hub, while that particular gear is selected, but the end on mine was worn down so it no longer had a smooth radius which allowed everything to move too far and then made it difficult to disengage first. You'll need to... MORE

I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE

Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE

Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE

Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE

Just checked my Haynes which is what I'd have followed during my rebuild. No specific order to retightening but what it does day is do the bolts up finger tight then rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions before torqueing down. The other thing to check is that you don't have any grit under the shells. However as all is fine with the old TWs then it sounds like the only problem is the new TWs are a bit thick. When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like... MORE

When I rebuilt my 1275 I didn't replace the TWs, how do the old ones look? Running the car like that may overheat those new TWs and they might finish up in a worse state than your known good ones. Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for... MORE

Jim, Sounds way too tight, but this isn't a "seat of the pants' thing. You need a dial gauge and a magnet stand to check end float. You need to exert force in both directions and see what the dial gauge reads. From memory, I think .003 is the upper limit, but check the specs first.It 's possible for them to be too tight. Are you using standard or overside thrust washers? They are marked for size on the backside. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25439... MORE

Bradsky... Milling the head slightly will have no ill effect upon anything, considering how little you are removing, assuming it had stock 21cc chambers to begin with. As a matter of fact, milling the head rather than going to flattops is the preferred way of raising the compression ratio moderately according to Dave Vizard, this having a more salutory effect on combustion/flow characteristics than a piston configuration change. For racing, the factory goes to 16.4cc chambers before they start raising compression by changing piston configuration so I guess this is the safe limit before head strength is compromised. What... MORE

Hi Neil I had the same problem with mine but got them working in the end although I am not sure whether the same circumstances may apply. I say this as it was my brake light and indicators that were not working, everything else worked fine. It mentioned in the Haynes Manual that these two are related and when I fixed the one both sprung back to life. What it was down to was a loose and corroded connection between the brake pedal switch at the master cylinder and the wiring loom. I choped these off and repalced the... MORE

"What's the sense of gearing these cars primarily for highway cruising?" Well.... 'Cause I didn't get a BE so I could leave it home in nice weather when I commuted down to NYC airports to fly the friendly skies in bascially 70mph limited access highway driving circumstances where having a 5 speed enables me to tune for low and mid-range instead of top end, as one might have to do with a 4 speed and 3.9. :):) All depends upon the driving circumstance, state of tune, spec., etc. Considering my engine spec in terms of torquey low and mid-range... MORE

Don... "Sounds" (excuse the pun:) like you've got a glasspack (free flow) on there, maybe a Thrush or Cherry Bomb. These are "straight thru" designs (as opposed to the "baffled" stock (or Midas/Meineke/ Walker, etc.) system. It may also be the optional "GEX" straight-through type I've see advertised by MiniMania. "Straight thru" design with sound deadening packed around the "open" core allows for perfomance and/or gas economy along with allowing for a cooler running engine due to the easier trip the hot exhaust gases have outbound. allow the engine to run a little cooler as well as the exhaust... MORE

Nigel, There is a number stamping at the top of the mounting flange about the same position where the brake tee union is attached. It is expressed in the form of a fraction, i.e. 10/39. This exaple would be a 3.9 diff. you can do the division or goo to the Sprogets Specs page on my site (in the Tech tips section) to see the different fraction and corresponding ratios. http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm Gerard "gerardchateau" 25133... MORE