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Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
Hi, I have a question relating to SU HS2 carbs. Is there a way to tell what the differences between the model numbers are by the numbers themselves. For example how can you tell the difference between the AUD136,AUD266 and ADU328? They are all HS2 after all Is it just needle size and spec, jet size that differ? Any advice appreciated TIA Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 27417... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
Years ago (1980), when I first got my MKII, there was a book with it, given to me by the previous owner. The book has since vanished, and I would like to replace it but I can't remember much about it, including the name. It was a manual of some type with an interesting twist. At the end of the book there was a story about a couple guys driving their Sprite accross southern US (I think) I remember them discussing physics such as Boyles gas law and how it would pertain to their tire pressure when the drove... MORE
Those numbers are close to the Kent 276 Megadyne cam. Vizard describes this cam as "Slight lopey idle, okay in traffic, Strong mid and top end..." "Jeffrey Holmes" 27112... MORE
I got the door reassembled and hung in place but with the new door seals it does not close completely. It appears that the seal is holding the door off. I can not seem to get the latch adjusted far enough in to pull it closed. Does the body side of the latch have some adjustment? The hinges can be adjusted some but that only affects the door gaps. Thanks for the answers. BTW the manual doesn't say much on this topic. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 27001... MORE
For North American Sprites, it was at HAN9 72034, so Brandon's would most likely have been Positive earth originally. (These chassis number change points do not necessarily indicate everything before was one spec and everything after was another - minor part changes especially would have been brought in over some period of time.) Regards David "David Jacobs" 26690... MORE
Dear List, I have been offered an MG Midget but do not have much data except for few chassis, engine and model numbers. Can someone shed some light on this? year, specs or whatever you can add will be appreciated! The chassis number is MAA 002909, Engine S1104341-A, Model (body?) BMG12. Cheers Martin "Martin Aubert" 26659... MORE
MB = 65lbft and Conrod = colour dyed 50lbft / phosphated 46lbft. You really ought to get a workshop manual you know! "Jeremy Cogman" 26585... MORE
David I saw those in the parts manual. ummmmmmmm......... how you supposed to afix the threaded plates to the sill =3D=0D when you cant get behind the panel to get a nut on the thread ? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26566... MORE
there are supposed to be some threaded stud-plate things as well, which should help hold the strips more firmly (can't remember if there's one at each end of each strip, or just one per strip) Check your parts manual for details. David "David Jacobs" 26565... MORE
Hi Trying to put the 'chrome' strip back on the sill of 1972 midget using new retaining clips. The ones supplied are far too small and fail to retain th e strip, good job I tried them first before pop riveting them to the sill. Anyone else had this problem or is this just a bad batch of clips. I get them from a local MG bit and pieces enthusiasts shop, think they come from same source as MGOC. I got an original BMC workshop manual for Midget/Spri te for =A310 from him yesterday. Just had to re exchange... MORE
Oh yes! I know that feeling too. Doing jobs on these cars can be frustrating at times. With regard to the Midget though, I only have myself to blame, being the present owner and also the 'daft previous owner' . Having said that, when it was still quite new, the garage who serviced it (and supplied it, The Bedford Garage, in Exeter Devon U.K. - no longer in existence, by the way) failed to lubricate the king pins properly, leading to them seizing up, so I resolved to do my own servicing, spending the remainder of what I would... MORE
Roger Thanks again for your advice. I decided in the end to use the Castrol LM grease I just happened to have a tin of in my garage, donated by my dad a few years ago I think. Particularly so as when I looked in the Midget/Sprite shop manual it actually specifies this grease as the one to use! Nice result that one! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26520... MORE
OK ok ok as you're being so helpful I'll call ya Ed : ) You'll just have to excuse my 'somewhat' naive questions regarding what you consider to be second nature. I am not a mechanic, never have been nor will ever be one. Bodywork, welding, spraying, upholstery I can do, mechanics I learn as I go along, which is why I'm so dependant on workshop manuals. Unless the manual spells out what you have to do, I'll get confused (which isn't hard)! Now whats the end-float got to do with anything? Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26484... MORE
Heya 'grumpy' : ) Thanks for your reply! Of course I have a ****ing shop manual but of course the ****ing shop manual only covers removing the bearing from a steel wheel hub and NOT a wire wheel one, hence my confusion as to which side it needs to come out of! To be honest, I think I might just hand it over to a garage and say 'You sort it out! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26478... MORE
My book (Chilton 210) says manual transmissions should use API GL-4 which I think is 75W-90 or 80W-90. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26463... MORE
Chris... Interesting question however, did you know that a wider .015, instead of .012 clearance is recommended by the factory for the stock cam when used in "performance" circumstances? I guess the .012 is used for more quiet running under normal or low rpm street applications when top rpm useage will be brief, rather than under cirumstances wherein continuous high rpm running and attendant swelling of parts due to heat is expected. Also, under the latter circumstances, "burning" of a valve will be less likely as well. And, of course, with the wider cleanance, you get faster acceleration ("ramp"... MORE
http://www.rivergate5speed.com/desc_of_trans.html Follow the above link, and you'll find a manual on the transmission. It has a filler hole that can be accessed from the underside of the car. I honestly can't remeber what what oil I used. (I debated the issue several days with my father before going with the oil mentioned in the rivergate kit instructions) "Trevor Jessie" 26458... MORE
Hi, Bob.... Yes the return springs are installed I have new ones to put in. The butterflies have been modified per Vizard, I wonder if that might have anything to do with the problem. The fast idle screws are not even touching the cam. Something must be holding the butterfly open a little. Off come the carbs tomorrow. Martyn "Martyn Eastwood" 26450... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Terry I depend's on how much you want an 'original' workshop manual. The price does seem high to me. You can pick up a 'haynes' workshop manual for the MGB on ebay.co.uk for around a fiver. You pays ya money, ya takes ya choice. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26313... MORE
Hi I have been offered an original Layland workshop manual covering up to 1973 for my MGB for =A325. Do I buy it or are they only wortj a fiver? Terry "terry.isherwood" 26310... MORE
