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Mike, Assuming you haven't had the head off for a while I think backing the bolts off and retorqueing to spec and approved sequence is probably worth a try. Who knows, it might work! Rob C-75 Midget with asthma Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 36791... MORE
Unless you have an aversion to removing the water pump, I'd just go ahead and replace the head gasket at this point, based on my experience with "quick fixes" in this area. The hard part is already done - removing the carbs & manifold. An oil change is always healthy. However, if you do want to try the re-torquing bit, from what i have read/heard, you should do one bolt at a time - loosen and retorque - in a specific order (as listed in Haynes & Bentley manuals). Cracking all the bolts at once will allow the oil... MORE
Sure. Rebuild it. It ain't rocket science. Get a Haynes manual, $20 or thereabouts at Advance Auto, and you won't need the barrel. "joe blxfstz" 36769... MORE
Dear Listers, Since folks seemed to have so much fun with carb adjusting let me try and keep the ball rolling. What would be anyone's best guess on a timing setting for a 1500 engine with dual 1.25 carbs, 2 inch exhaust and the lower U.S. compression? My Haynes gives anything from 10dgs BTDC (UK spec) to 2 dgs.ATDC in stock US single carb tune. I'm just not happy with the way the motor runs in all ranges and am trying to set a baseline timing. Any input is appreciated. Rob C Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the... MORE
You may be on to something, Brad. If anyone has some step-by-steps on adjusting the valves I'm open to feedback. I'm reviewing my shop manual to prep. YOu might want to check your valves, make sure they are all set correctly. Brad Vince 36744... MORE
For any of you who want to get your projects manual labor work done real cheap, like sanding, degreasing, bodywork, you name it, I've found the answere. A good friend of mine found this, don't know what he was searching for when he did, I'm afraid to ask. Greg http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=5570137620&ssPageName=ADME:B:EF:US:1 "isettadude" 36561... MORE
Well, Dave.... The biggest/best change you can make is to bring up the compression ratio next time you have the head off, unless you're taking it apart for piston/ring replacement. Taking the head from 21cc down to 19cc should be good for just under 8.5-1 and were you to go to 8.8-1 pistons next time around, the combo would be good for between 9.0-9.3-1 or so. You could take the head down to 16.4cc but now you're down to min. thickness for the head (strength, cooling, head-gasket issues, etc.). Besides mechanical stuff, better breathing will help. Vizard outlines in... MORE
There is no hard and fast definition of what constitutes different stages in tuning - you would have to ask and get the actual specs of the particular supplier. (or tell them what you want) David "David Jacobs" 36385... MORE
it depends what you aim want to achieve, but if it includes any sort of A series upgrade David Vizard's Tuning the A Series Engine is well worth while. Better to look on eBay is it can be a bit pricey. David "David Jacobs" 36187... MORE
I have a bugeye with a 1098 enine. When I got the car I purchased the Haynes manual for sprites and midgets. It seems to give memostof the information I need. I was wondering if there was enough in the way of additional information or tips to make it worth buying the "Tuning the A Series Engine" book or one of the SU carbuerator books. Thanks Bob rlirwn@... 36186... MORE
I recognize this is one of those thological deputes that have been debated for years, like wht fluid shouold I use in my dashpots, 20 weight or atf. The fact is that my engine is still within the tolerences specified in the haynes manual. That is it is only .001 larger than stock. This being teh case there is a slight ridge at athe top that needed to be taken off to safely remove the pistons. Plus, how is it that a re ring and hone job would be any shorter lived than a re bore which would necessitate,... MORE
Well.... haven't tried this myself but no reason why it shouldn't work as advertised. I don't know whether the "competition" or mechanical race distributor curve is still available but certainly, the "40819" Cooper S curved mechanical dizzy should be right at home in this environment I would think. Emissions laws vary from state to state here in the US. In CT, they don't check under the hood unless a car doesn't pass. Then you better have everything hooked up and operational as well or your registration will ultimately be denied. Once the car reaches the ripe old age of... MORE
Has anyone tried the modifications listed in the bl st manual? I mean adding twin hs4 SU carbs, a race distributor (part number C-27H7766), a head with 9.5:1 compression, and a free flow exhaust? The performance figures make this look tempting. Too bad I dont see anything about gas milege or emissions (in the unites staes this can be an issue. "gan5ub91179g" 36012... MORE
My cousin Donald in Irving is having a problem with his 1997 Ford F150 pick 'em up truck. It's a V-6 and after driving about 15 minutes, his #3 cylinder starts to miss. He's changed plugs, wires, and now was attempting to change the coil. On these trucks the coil and dist. cap are made in one unit apparently? Anyway, he got a replacement coil and enstalled it and no joy, the truck would not even start. Put the old one back on, it runs but misses after 15 minutes. He went back to the auto supply and got... MORE
Actually, Chuck.... .milling the head is preferred over flat-tops or domed pistons (as explained in your Vizard book, BTW) as a way of bringi ng the CR up a bit. With all due respect....strongly suggest you read the book...from cover to cover..... BEFORE (not after) you build your motor!!!! :):) Fr'instance....an understanding of the sections on cams will allow YOU to choose the best cam for your application, without input from others (though of course we are always at your disposal, obviously!!:). Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35712... MORE
Nology Hotwires.... exactly, Spencer...without 3rd party empirical data, I don't tend to "believe" either. if Vizard hadn't tested them, I wouldn't have spent the bucks....they're not inexpensive. But they do last a long, long time. They are very well built and I can tell you from experience they will burn off oil on spark plug tips, even in engines burning a quart every in <500 miles. You'll still get crusty brown carbon deposits that will eventually fill the gap and "short", but you won't be getting wet oil fouling at all, assuming compression is reasonably decent. Cap'n Bob '60... MORE
Agree with you, JSB...3rd party proof. Nology wires..........David Vizard....... ......tested these in a V-8 (dynoed) for Motortecmag.com in 2001. They work ed! Couple of more lbs of torque and a wee-bit more HP at the top...all else equal. Cap'n Bob '60 Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 35611... MORE
As for 3 why not try the MOSS parts manual (MGL3300), you need the 1967 to 1979 one, there is an earlier one. 126 pages of exploded views, descriptions and part numbers. They were giving these away at a show so my friend picked one up for me. As for 4 I find the Haynes as good as any. I did get a workshop manual thinking it would be a lot better, it was not. Terry "terry.isherwood" 33622... MORE
Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! Special Order, some place like Coker Tire. Check the classic tire dealers a t swap meets 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? eBay!! I found a 67 tonneau and a white top for our 68 on eBay. 3)... MORE
Spridget people, Please forgive a Newbie's ignorance... I just joined this group as I just purchased a 1968 MG Midget. I'm now fumbling around trying to locate a few items I will be needing for the car. Here are two questions for you. 1) Where in the devil can I find 145SR13 tires and tubes?! 2) Where can I find a decent hood and tonneau at a reasonable price? 3) Where can I find a complete parts listing for the Midget? 4) Which shop manual is best and where do I buy one? Many thanks in advance.... Cheers!! Jim... MORE
Jens.... They recurved it based upon the information you provided them on the spec of the motor/octane used?? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 33604... MORE
Can anyone help please? I have a 1098cc MG engine in my 1961 Mk I Frogeye Sprite and have just removed the head for fault analysis for a rattling noise. The Haynes manual (page 37) states there are tappet covers but they are not identified in the exploded view of the engine. Can anyone help to identify where the covers are? and Is it possible to remove the tappets without removing the cam? Many thanks for your help Lee lparke12@... 33529... MORE
Ya' know, guys.... The "flat rate" manual is for the purposes of giving the customer an ESTIMATE of the work to be done by the "average" mechanic (who may or may not be as described by Toyperson!:):). And that's all the flat rate manual was ever intended for. The job is supposed to be charged based upon "actual" time, estimate based upon "flat rate" notwithstanding. Be careful out there...wherein there exists all sorts of ripoffs from those who are truly ignorant or those who know better but abuse the system due to the old "fault" which fouls up even... MORE
Vince, I have the ring-bound British Leyland shop manual 10th ed. from 1970. It covers the Sprites Mk 2 - 4 and Midgets Mk 1 - 3. There are 8 different wiring diagrams covering the various U.S. and Brit versions over the years. On the two diagrams that most likely were for your car, I didn't see any YN anywhere - or on any of the others either, in case somehow you've got a newer wiring harness. FWIW, which ain't much, but thought I'd let you know at least. Hamondale "hamondale" 33482... MORE
Folks, my Dad and I are trying to trace a lone yellow/brown(YN)wire. It's remained disconnected during the restore and has not affected any other electrical system (positive ground)or function. To be clear, this is not the brown/yellow (NY) wire to the alternator. We can't seem to find reference to the YN wire in the shop manual and have no reason to believe this is nothing but stock. Does anyone know where this goes? Also, we're trying to figure out the large, red-jeweled light (which is not the ignition light on the tach) located square in the upper middle of... MORE
