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Not correct according to my source. This information is from the Chilton's Nissan 210/1200 repair manual. 1974 B210 Sedan and Coupe- A13 1975 B210 Sedan and Coupe- A14 1976-78 B210- A14 1979-81 210, 210 MPG -A15 The book goes on to discuss A series into 1982 models, but the question was about A series engines. A-series engine were used in the 210, B210 and 1200 Nissans. beginning from 1973. These include A12, A12A, A13, A14, A15. The A12 is considerered to be very disirable because it is the least choked and detuned due to SMOG restrictions and it has... MORE
Interesting experiments, Paul. The most simple well-working PCV system I ever had came on the '67 engine 5 main bearing engine which I installed in place of the 3 main bearng which came in my PO'd '64 MGB. Factory PCV valve (rubber diaphragm) intake manifold mounted breathing through the liquid/vapor flame arrestor mounted on the front of the timing case cover with matched vented/filtered oil filler cap. Replaced the diaphragm once and filtered cap once in a while. And introducing a little water into the intake manifold once a year will help keep things clean. There are also a... MORE
Brad, I think this is debatable. I have and original hardcover BMC Service Workshop Manual, part# AKD4884. Cover and binding ar labeled . Austin Healey SPRITE Mark I Workshop Manual BMC(logo) Service Many, many pages are footnoted the same way "Austin-Healey Sprite MK1" Gerard "gerardchateau" 24611... MORE
"Aldon Distributors" Aldon did a PerTronix equipped 45D mechanical curve for my 8.3-1 motor, based upon a planned (Judson) 6psi boost curve. Less than $300 including shipping. Bill Perry got the dizzy. In checking it on a distributor machine, it did not match the written curve provided. Bill shipped the dizzy up to me in CT so Pete Sachs guys could check it out on their machine(s). Sure enough....wrong curve. Shipped it back to Aldon after trading e-mails. Returned in a heartbeat with the "correct" curve...Aldon paid all shipping costs (by Air..both ways). Morals: 1.Check this part as you... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
I have a nasty crack in the windsheild of my '76 midget. One shop in town would be happy to replace the glass...for $600. The competing shop has a much more reasonable price quote, but they dont stock clear glass, and would have to put a piece with a slight green tint in. From the workshop manual, it doesnt look like a terribly difficult job, but the book doesnt give many details beyond the removal and refit of the entire frame. Is it a job I can do with my fair technical knowledge and a few extra hands? Is... MORE
Adam You'll find no better book on tuning/building the A Series Engine than Davi =3D=0D d Vizard's - Tuning BL's A Series Engine, it's the bible. One of the advantages of all of the sprite/midget range is that It will ta =3D=0D ke any one of the A Series engines, so a bored out 1275 would fit quite happily in =3D=0D an earlier version. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24346... MORE
David, Which "the book" are you referring to? There are many. The Bentley (factory manual reference) does if you have a late enough versoin of it. I posted the info in an earlier message. Early cars are opposite the pinion side on LHD cars and on the same side aftter the Triupmph rack was subbed for the Morris one. I am assuming the opposite is so for RHD in both cases. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24322... MORE
It says in the factory manual, the packing is on the pinion side for later cars. "David Jacobs" 24289... MORE
Stewart I really don't see what the problem is here and what it is that you don't understand. Unfortunately I do not have the book you refer to, I do however have parts manuals for all series of Spridgets and I can tell you with utmost certainty that the floor pan for a 1/4 elliptic Mk1 sprite is NOT The same as the floor pan for the semi elliptic later cars. OK but you must have the moss parts catalouge then where it states that the later floorpan can be used on early cars with little modification.. well I... MORE
Stewart I really don't see what the problem is here and what it is that you don't understand. Unfortunately I do not have the book you refer to, I do however have parts manuals for all series of Spridgets and I can tell you with utmost certainty that the floor pan for a 1/4 elliptic Mk1 sprite is NOT The same as the floor pan for the semi elliptic later cars. The floor pan pressing DID change from 58 - 79 you are incorrect here and I do not understand where you're getting this information from, the Sprite Mk1... MORE
Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE
Hello.. I have two sprigets.. The first car is a 1974 1500 (yes they do exist as I had to keep telling anyone I orderd parts for it from!)Which I bought in 1988, dorve for 6 months and then stripped, scince then I have replaced the inner and outer sills, repaired the floor and the front chassis sections and inner fornt arches.. restoration has stalled there, and the last time I actulally worked on it was 1991 IIRC! If my research is correct it is the 126th 1500 midget built and it is /was teal blue registerd JMB742N The... MORE
Well, Nigel... Your searching for something here but it's not about the 1500 or a correct way to modify or sort the handling on a car. With respect to the 1500, It's mostly all add-on stuff to the original type so the mfgs. could extend the life of the type while meeting later day safety standards. As such, all "earlier" prior specs and parts are available so it's not as though one is dealing with a new type. So, none of this is really rocket science as I am sure you know, though some bending here and there may... MORE
Cap'n Bob, Appreciate the insight. The last 1275 I drove was a 73 back in 1981. Didn't know jack about such cars so comparison's are impossible. I was planning to lower the rear of the car with a block arrangement that raises the rear axle where it attaches to the spring. Since fitting the new wheels and tires I'm not so sure about this. I had to do some sugery on the rear to eliminate the "tuck-in" flange for clearance. The front wheels were even worse. Had to raise the wheel cutout an inch. Will probably flair them. Do... MORE
We put the pan back onto the 1275, but cannot go further until I have the proper gaskets. I will not make them out of silicone!! So, in the interim, we took the 1098 apart. The problem we found, in the removing the frozen pistons, is that there are sleeves on the back two cylinders. One of the sleeves was moving when I was trying to pound the piston out. What holds the sleeve still? I want to build a motor for the Frogeye, to get it on the road, until the 1275 is built. I have two guys... MORE
Just got my repair manual. It is a big help. Checked the fluid levels in both the clutch and transmission. Topped them both off. No change. Bled the slave. It had air. No change. Clutch still isn't disengaging. That is about the extent of what I can do in my backyard and will be sending it to the doctor on Monday. Didn't see any place (in the manual) that indicated that the clutch can be adjusted. Didn't touch the turn signal. Thanks for the help. "Rick & Deb" 23934... MORE
Jim.... "Thanks", yourself!! :):) You either don't have a maint. manual or are not reading it, I guess. Well, no matter. :) You cannot check effective operation of the manifold mounted PCV valve by taking it apart. It is tested on a running engine at idle... if it is working correctly, the idle will increase by around 200rpm when you remove the "vented/filtered" oil cap (which you are using in accordance with your manual, right?:) For with respect to the manifold mounted stock PCV valve....there are no other restrictors in this system...IT is THE restrictor! It is also diaphragm... MORE
gztracker: How about using a stock PCV valve as shown in the manual? Or, is this part no longer available? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23791... MORE
Mike writes: "Maybe the beast is supposed to feel like a go kart going down the road" You got it...that's exactly right. But, not "wondering" down the road, assuming the surface is smooth. It should go exactly where YOU point it and NOT the other way 'round. It should never feel as though the "tail is wagging the dog". On rougher surfaces the car will "move" sideways in a controlled manner as it "skips" over rougher pavement but it should never "wonder" or feel "loose", despite the fact road shock may be transmitted to the steerng wheel. Any "wondering"... MORE
Can anyone give me the description of the restrictors that I think should be in the tube from the timing case to the PCV valve. I have just rebuilt my '68 1275 engine and it is sucking enough oil through the oil seperator to go through the engine. I tried a 1/8" restrictor and had much oil out the rear seal(screw). I then put a 5/16" inch restrictor closer to the PVC valve and it seems to do much better. I have found no information other than a reference to tube and restrictor in the Hayes manual. Thanks Jim... MORE
Hello to all I now have the steering wheel, cowling, turn signal stem assembly and wiper assembly off the steering column. How is the switch removed? I can't find any screws, etc. holding it on. My Haynes manual says I should be able to turn the key to the on position, depress the button and remove the entire barrel assembly. It won't work that way!! I also can't get it to the complete off position to remove the key. The key is somewhat bent in the barrel so I am afraid to work it too hard. My first thought... MORE
Thanks for all the help. Now I have a weekend project. I'm impressed with how quickly help was there and I didn't even have to call 911. I ordered a manual from Haynes but it won't be here in time for this weekend so any further help and/or advise would certainly not fall on deaf ears. Once again, thanks. "Rick & Deb" 23725... MORE
If you do not have any repair manuals yet, you might start watching e-bay for some deals. You may not be planning on doing any major work, but they can certainly help with little annoyances. Do not be afraid to ask a question here. Many people will assume you know how to do things, but will certainly give more detail if you ask. We all want to keep as many spridgets on the road as possible. "Trevor Jessie" 23703... MORE
Dear Listers, I hope someone out there can point me in the right direction. Just finished ( to the point where it should run well) my '75 Midget. I have a recurring problem with stumbling and power loss during higher speed cruising, above 40 mph. The spluttering is usually accompanied by a 5 dg. or so rise in coolant temp. If I back off, the car will smooth out again and run OK if I don't push it. The magic number seems to be 50 mph. If I cruise lower than that I usually don't have problems. At 50... MORE
