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Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
I suspect it's a Gold Seal or Silver Seal replacement unit, though I think 'RKM' part numbers were used for these. A couple of questions should identify it; does it have the 1275 tag or if not, removable tappet covers on the manifold side of the block? Does it have the oil filter head unit with the filter hanging off it, forward of the distributor (=Spridget), or is the filter sticking directly out of the block near the distributor? ( Marina) The only vehicles which used 'inline' 1275 engines were Spridgets and Marinas, so it is probably going to... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
I am just checking through the various numbers on my Midget and don't understand the engine numbers. The head is right, a 12G940 casting, but the engine number is marked as CKM211293S which makes no sense to me and I can't find anything on the net. Assuming it is from another type of car and has been changed out in the past (the logbook lists engine number 1854 as fitted), what is it? Any ideas??? "Bruce" 37992... MORE
I got some racing 13x6s made by Aero for $40 a piece - the good news/bad news was that I had to replace my studs with 7/16" ones so I could run the correct lug nuts (1"). I had to find a dealer willing to call the factory for them. Bart makes some as well, but they were out of them right now. Jackie Cooper "Jackie Cooper" 37976... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
Bruce, Just completed an "as original as possible" rebuild onto a Heritage shell - 700 miles later and nothing has fallen off yet. My original but tired 1275 was rebuilt by me - with the aim of extracting a few more HP and some extra torque 2500 - 6000 rpm. My spec is a.. 020" rebore (1293 cc) b.. 9.75 :1 CR pistons c.. MG Metro large valve cylinder head with mild port and polish d.. MG Metro single HIF44 carb "Vizarded" (butterfly knife-edged, spindle trimmed and waisted, screws trimmed and Loctited, bridge lowered) e.. Titan Motorsport inlet manifold,... MORE
They all (A series) point slightly forwards. I suspect the line drawing for the clamp type in parts catalogues originally came from an existing drawing for another car, possibly Morris Minor or A30? If you can get hold of the flanged type, it makes a much better joint and is the correct type for your '74. It would have been tapped for studs not drilled for bolts if it is from a UK car, but it's highly likely the threads will be stripped, so would either need to be welded and redrilled/tapped or larger size studs fitted anyway. (I... MORE
Are the head rests uspposed to completly come off my 76 Midget? I have been pulling at them but they don't seem to want to come off. Are they supposed to? is there a button or catch to press? I ask because I recently bought a tonneau without the headrest holes/covers and though I would just be able to remove the head rests will the cover is on am I wrong? "gav_newman" 37759... MORE
Yes some of us are here. Bill French Hilton Head, SC frenchww@... 37699... MORE
G'day Joe The standard trick Down Under is to turn up the radio. Or fit one. Or take a nagging wife with you. If you don't have a nagging wife, borrow one from a friend - he will be grateful. My 1380cc race engine is a little worn. It was worn with rust marks in the bores when I first used it 12 years ago, and it hasn't improved by use. I'm not prepared to bore it to 74mm just yet, and so pistons are a little sloppy. Even new pistons aren't much tighter than the old used ones,... MORE
Ah, gotcha'. The problem is one cyl only, the others are fine on bore size and make no noise. The slappy cylinder has good compression, 155 psi, and it doesn't show any smoke or use oil. The only problem, at the moment anyway, is the noise. Maybe it's only an aesthetic thing, but it bugs me. Not enough however to justify a rebore and new pistons (and while it's apart, mains and rods and thrust washers, and might as well do a valve job, and while I'm at it, how 'bout an Al head, etc.) I digress. Here's what... MORE
Ah! Mr goofy! Try the knurl routine. No Adhesives, etc. Been in use since creation, or close. I think you've never had the pleasure of listening to a cold Ford V-8 flat head at start up, and before fully warmed up. Ditto for the Chrysler products L-head engines. You only have one lonely piston to listen to slapping around in there! Later, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37661... MORE
Piston slap, #4 cylinder only. Cylinders 1, 2 and 3 are worn almost none, but #4 measured .006 oversize. I rebuilt it with std size pistons, assuming that they were worn more than the bores, and were the source of the tonk - tonk piston slap noise. Didn't work. It's still there. Compression is good, 155-160 psi. Doesn't smoke or use any oil. Goes away when fully warmed up, but... Questions - 1) Is this anything to lose sleep over? 2) Any "tricks" to lessen the noise?...uh, rebore and new pistons doesn't qualify as a "trick". "joe blxfstz" 37648... MORE
Andy.... Brad says you've got a '67 and he oughta know. The '67 had the "early" thin-flange 1275. And most likely it is the standar d high compression (this would be the "H" in the engine #) 8.8-1 motor. The "good stuff"!! This motor was most likely equipped with the #40819 Cooper "S" spec. Lucas 23D mechanical advance only distributor and even better, most likely the rare a nd much sought after EN40 (bulletproof) steel crankshaft. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37613... MORE
Now cars with disc brakes on the front have a wheel cylinder with two pistons, affixed to the backing plate by means of a C-clip, and the hand brake lever is totally seperate and operates on the brake shoes not the wheel cylinder. Does this describe what you have? There are a number of manufacturers of these wheel cylinders - some use normal rubber cups, some use your Polo mint seal. There are even different versions of the Polo mint - same OD but different ID, depending on the whim of the manufacturer. The one thing they all have... MORE
G'day guys Cooler air is denser, denser air picks up more fuel and carries it intot he combustion chamber, and you get a bigger bang. So a little more power. Something you would notice at speed not on a dyno. Correctly positioned, the intake will also provide a ram air effect - a mini blower. Note: more of each, fuel and air, so it's still at the correct fuel/air ratio, not "more fuel" as in running richer. I do like your idea Robert, a little lateral thinking going on there. If you set it up correctly you might actually... MORE
G'day all Let's start with a definition. Those non-standard tubular pipes that bolt onto your cylinder head to let the exhaust gas out, and eventually join into one "collector" for the exhaust pipe, are called "extractors" or in some languages "headers". "Exhaust" includes these plus everything down the line, past the muffler to the chrome tip on the tail pipe. I guess we are talking here about insulating the extractors, not the entire exhaust system. We run in all our engines on a calibrated engine dyno. It lives in a 10ft x 15ft brick room with a huge fan... MORE
How much more power do you want than you can get from a well tuned 5 port head? Or is it as much for appearance's sake? David PS welcome to the group! "David Jacobs" 37442... MORE
Well for what it's worth 32 years ago I flipped a 62 sprite by running off the road skidding sideways. Front wheels were in the ditch rear wheels were up in a yard ended up hitting a rock on the passenger side rocker panel which in turn put as airborne and we ended up in the middle of the road upside down. No roll bar I was sore without a scratch my friend ended up with seven stitches to the back of his head from the support bar for the top. I personally think in this case a roll... MORE
New to the Yahoo group, hello and thanks in advance... Has anyone out there had experience with 7 or 8 port cylinder heads? Vizard's guide has a whole 3 paragraphs on the subject, Stapleton has one! I came across an old issue of Retro Cars (May '04) that reviewed A series engine tuning and and turned me onto this option. I've gone to Mini-Spares UK website and priced the unit ($$$- but cheaper than the K-series engine swap, which would be way too hard to do living Stateside). I've viewed Bill Richards Racing website and read about how he... MORE
G'day Jeremy Your car probably had a PVC (Positive Crankcase Ventillation) valve on the inlet manifold, connected via a rubber hose to the engine breather. When you had your foot off the throttle, the partial vacuum in the inlet manifold helped to reduce the pressure in the sump, thus (in theory if seldom in practice) minimising oil leaks out of the rear main bearing. This PCV valve was later deleted, and the hose from the engine breather went to a plastic Y-piece and then via two short rubber tubes to these pipes on the carbies. You have two options.... MORE
Jeremy, Just had a go-round with my carbs which are earlier with no vent tubes. If my experience is any example the carbs will "Y" off the valve cover and provide negative pressure in the valve train. This is a good thing. If my understanding of the setup is correct you need to hook this up or you will leak oil from strange places. In my case out of the dipstick tube among others. Rob C-75 Midget on the roand and running fine. Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37329... MORE
Jeremy... these "tubes" feed graduated (specifically sized) orifices through which crankase gasses are fed into the combustion process in a measured amount, off the "flame arrestor/oil vapor separator (through appropriate hoses and plastic "T" fit ting) mounted on the timing chain cover. These make up the "exit" or "exhaust" side of the PCV system on engines so equipped, the "inlet" side of the equation being a filtered plastic oil filler cap on the "early" cars or a feed tube into the valve cover (again, through a "graduated orifice) from the charcoal cannister on later emissions vehicles equipped with closed... MORE
