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After all this time do you think something has fallen in there? A 1/4" nut or valve cotter would do the trick. Also possibly you have a sticking or bent valve that is hitting the top of a piston. Take the valve cover off and see if the valves and rockers look allright. Look in the spark plug holes. I can have a head off alot faster than a pan and then you could tell if the engine turns over. Happy trails...Rex Urban "Rex Urban" 27701... MORE
Paul I would think that in the rebuild process to get your valve clearances correct that the engine would have been rotated through the complete 360 degrees. I agree with Rex, easier to pull the head and check for anything that has fallen in, than to pull the pan. Steve Quandt Steve Quandt 27705... MORE
I need help. Here's what happened. Began restoration about 10 years ago. Thought it would go faster than it did, so early on I had the engine done. It was built by Dave Tabor of Comptune, the guys who built all the SCCA champ 1275 motors. Anyway, I told Dave I wanted a 1967 street spec high compression engine. I know he used a factory crank and cam. I believe he used aftermarket pistons that he preferred with a compression of about 8.9 to 1. He used a factory non-emission head, redone to run unleaded. Job was completed many... MORE
Hi there - A Newbie here. I am wondering - is it possible to fit a 1275cc A series engine block from a Metro into an A.H. Sprite? I assume being an A-Series block it 'should' be possible - but I've head various stories of possible complications. What exactly is involved in performing this transplant? I only ask because a relation has offered me a VERY low mileage Metro (1275cc), with known history for FREE, but I need to act quickly otherwise it will be scrapped!!! Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, T. W. P.S. I... MORE
My edition of David Vizard's book basically mentions the 12G206 head but goes on to ignore it as it is now very rare, even compared to the 12G295 which is pretty scarce now. The latter casting is the one he describes in detail. So I suppose the answer to Martin's question is "yes, it is worth the money, if you are selling one; no, it isn't if you are buying one!" Regards David "David Jacobs" 27650... MORE
I thought the 12G295 head was the recommended head for 1000cc a series upg rade. I stand to corrected of course. Alan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -... MORE
OK guys need some feed back on the 12G206 casting cylinder head, is it really worth the money for the 948? Per David Vizard it is touted as the best one for BMC A series engines up to 1000 cc has anyone used one and is it worth the price? Marty Cooper Martin Cooper 27630... MORE
I read this this somewhere before, the bit I don't agree with is ..... Recently I heard of another reason that makes a lot of sense, early powered boats used automotive engines and often were simply the engine in the middle of a boat with an extension on the rear of the crankshaft to drive a propeller at the back of the boat. But I say The early engined boats were steam driven , as everybody knows Steam engines run just as fast in either direction . (simple reversing lever on the valve gear) Not withstanding that, the first... MORE
One for Capn Bob Passengers on a small commuter plane are waiting for the flight to leave. They're getting a little impatient, but the airport staff assures them that the pilots will be there soon, and the flight can take off. The entrance opens, and two men dressed in Pilots' uniforms walk up the aisle. Both are wearing dark glasses, one is using a guide dog, and the other is tapping his way up the aisle with a cane. Nervous laughter spreads through the cabin but the men enter the cockpit, the door closes, and the engines start up.... MORE
Thanks Robert I have to say, the satisfaction seeing those first dark blue gloss coats going on was fantastic! Even my neighbour poked his head round the corner today and said 'ooooh thats looking nice!'. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27539... MORE
Don... Usually, to the average owner, having to pull a perfectly good motor to replace a malfunctioning clutch is a PITA. Unless you are a "Clarici", it is s time consuming and/or labor/money consuming. Unless your clutch parts are basically new, I suggest you replace ALL while you are "in there" as considering the foregoing, clutch parts are cheap. Nothing like replacing a disc today, and having to go through the whole process again to replace a pressure plate or worn T/O bearing 6 mos down the road. Of course, if there is contamination within the bell housing, clutch... MORE
OK....5'9" blue-eyed, blonde bundle of fun...we'll let you live.... just let Nigel be your guide so you come out happy with your ultimate Spridget choice! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27500... MORE
Jim... Since you've gone with an Ignitor (PerTronix?) why not go with the same (PerTronix) wires. Assume (ass-u-me) you are using one of their coils as well? Otherwise, Accel, NGK, Magnecor, etc. are available at performance speed shops. Go with a metal conductor type like the original Lucas "Bumblebee" performance wire more or less, in 7 or 8mm depending upon whether you choose to use the stock Lucas resistor tips. If you really want to go crazy with wires and want something really wild and very well insulated (and "built")....go Nology Hot Wires. Vizard dynoed these and found they... MORE
OK, Now I have located someone to supply the wheels I thought I wanted...13x5.5 -60 spoke, chrome and stainless steel, tubeless wheels. However, the supplier gave me this caveat: Dayton does offer a 13 x 5.5 inch wheel but indicates it is too big for the SPM and cannot be responsible if it is ordered and does not fit correctly. If you want to go a head with it I will get the part number and create it on our site as a one time part. IT can be had chrome 60 spokes tube or tubeless. Takes about 6... MORE
Chris You're most welcome to the help, thats what the list's here for. I'm also in Surrey as it happens. If you're looking for a usable Midget, rather than a 'concour's or 'rust heap' theres plenty to choose from, but the expression Caveat Emptor definitely applies to this group of cars, ie the middle ground. The first piece of advice I can give you is to look at the bodywork very carefully indeed, as this is the most expensive to fix by a long way. Tired mechanicals are easy enough to replace/recondition, bodywork can be a major expense -... MORE
Yep..you got it all, and you got it right. However....while I personally like running well vented, there is nothing wrong with the simple pre-'68 intake manifold mounted, diaphragm equipped PCV valve fed from the timing case cover. This is a good KISS (keep-it-simple- stupid) PCV system teamed with the filtered oil filler cap. There is virtually no maintenance to this system besides renewing the cap once a year and the rubber diaphragm when it becomes porous (the engine begins smoking out the exhaust and using oil like crazy when this occurs...so you'll know "when"!:). If you have decided to... MORE
They do move generally , some more than others , depending on how and where they are mounted. (The moment caused by the distance from the chassis , then a joint and a vertical rise to the centre of mass of the light is the reason) A spotlight 'narrow' beam obviously shows the worst of it. The modern road rally boys build their 'extra' lights into the bodywork of the car, either valance or bonnet. The extra lights only vibrate then as much as headlights . The original trick for the bumper mounted lights was to cut a wide... MORE
Jim... OK...you want to run "vented" instead of "closed loop" but wish to retain the charcoal cannister and use it as a catch can either in it's present position or possibly elsewhere in the engine compartment. Fine...but you MUST promise to read the last paragraph! :) I am strictly a layman in the post '67 emissions systems which were strapped to our engines as "add on" devici, providing for a "closed loop" system to ensure crankcase/fuel tank vapor evacuation into the combustion process. Ripped it out myself, and never used one. I took a look at it under the... MORE
Duncan... First choice: pick up the later timing case cover and utilize the intended stock simple PCV system. It works very well. You see, the Series A motor has a scroll (oil thrower) affair back by the main bearing which depends upon tight metal (block) clearances for "oil tightness". The motor does not have a "regular" rear main oil seal, Duncan. Without the stock PCV system, these motors have a real tendency to leak oil out of this area, most especially as they build miles on the crankshaft. The stock PCV system will draw out crankcase PRESSURE along with... MORE
Dan Can't help with the book I'm afraid, but I do know that Moss in the UK do t =3D=0D he VIN plates, also that they sometimes come on on ebay.co.uk within a 'decal =3D=0D set'. You could also trawl ebay.co.uk or .com for the book you're looking f =3D=0D or, I've seen all sorts of books relevant to Midgets and Sprites on there. I recently got a Haynes Midget and Sprite Owners Handbook and Servicing Guide from ebay.co.uk for =A31! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27146... MORE
Hi, Duncan.... The "open" port on the normal stock intake manifold on the '67 is for the rubber diaphragm equipped PCV valve which is fed via a rubber hose from the "flame arrester" (can) fabricated into the timing chain cover at the front of the motor. The "intake air" for crankcase gases drawn out from the crankcase into the intake manifold via the PCV valve is the plastic "filtered" oil cap containing a "graduated orifice" (designed "hole" of a specific diameter. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27173... MORE
Guys... Isn't there an anti-drainback valve in the 948's mechanical fuel pump? It's been 40 years for me so I've forgotten! :) But I think there may be one, Chris. And with no disrespect intended Chris, why would anyone run an engine with possible fuel leaks in the engine compartment? You don't EVER want to do this, man. Disaster doesn't always strike the "other guy"! :) I mean if you look just below the carbs, you'll find the exhaust system!! Speaking of which.... Invest in a portable FIREX as well that you can affix to, and carry around in... MORE
I'm not sure of the compression ratio but the head has been milled 0.080 and the cylinders are 0.040 larger. I'm using the valves for the 1098 head and running 1 1/2 SU's. The combustion chambers have all been opened up and balanced but I don't remember their size and won't be able to measure them until I get the new valve guides and lead free valve seats installed. I'll have to compute the compression ratio when I can make careful measurements. Thanks for the info. Nelson "Nelson Wittstock" 27116... MORE
Is there some way to look up the performance potential of the cam I have in my Sprite? I have the numbers for when the valves open and close and also the lift measurements. I'm wondering if it is suitable for use with today's fuels as I put it in back in the 60's and the car has been dismembered since 1971. Nelson Mk2 1016cc Sprite "witstock7" 27109... MORE
Nelson... Well, "knock" is pretty well tied to compression ratios and timing along with octanes of course, but you already know this. You are looking at a cam with numbers similiar to a Kent #276. The lift numbers may be the other way around but this is a minor point (usually a bit more lift for exhaust rather than inlet, when cam is assymetric, 'cause exhaust valve is smaller I guess?). This is a very fast road cam, similiar to what an APT VP3 or Kent #286 would be for a 1275, more or less. Minimum compression ratio for... MORE
