MAIN
Cylinder Head
Previous Page | Next Page
The VIN of this car is just a few digits lower than mine. Just a couple of "issues" - wrong engine color and the rockers are not black, otherwise it is very pretty "Jim" 37288... MORE
Yep!! There you are! And at the going price considering the MiniMania/Hans Pedersen kits. More low/mid-range torque for street fun. Having driven a stock '67 1275 Spridget using 6psi boost, I can honestly say it is worth the 3k assuming you are go ing to keep the car. Probably one of the most worthwhile upgrades besides the Datsun 5 speed for those who want true "quick". 6psi is the lowest amount of "effective" boost (torque/heat) without unduly loading stock parts providing you don't over-rev the motor and resist the urge to constantly take it to the redline, bearing in... MORE
Interesting thoughts. However, I would think that a SC would provide better bottom end torque and drivability. I was thinking that $3000 is alot of money but later (when a rebuild is required) you could drop the compression ratio and up the boost for serious performance. I'm anxious to hear feedback from people who install the kit before shelling out $3000. trevorwj@... 37266... MORE
Just some off the wall thoughts. $3000 is a lot of money, and unless your engine is already in perfect condition, you would probably want to do an engine rebuild too, so you're at maybe $4500 ready to rock 'n roll. You could do a reworked head, cam, bigger carb, overbore, have less money in the job, just as much HP, and probably better bottom end torque. It like like a stock engine with the Moss SC should produce something like 90 HP. Lot of money for that, say $180 per HP, and that's without any clutch or rear... MORE
Better off with a proper exust maniaflod allegedly with the 1500. Has yours got an oil cooler?, I have given in to the doom sayers and bought one! out of interest what is your oil pressure at idle? With regars tothe carb, is it leak from the top or bottom of the float chamber? or from the botom of the jet? Stewart "Ford Prefect" 37258... MORE
I have just replaced the head gasket on my 1500cc Midget, so I was quite chuffed to say the least when it turned over after only a few attempts. However I was not so happy when I noticed at lot of petrol was coming from the bottom of the rear float. I have twin SU carbs. I know that this was dripping a tiny amout of petrol before I changed the gasket but it is now flooding out. I realise extra fuel will have got in while I was turing the engine over to set the rocker gaps, but... MORE
Some of the kits that convert the standard carbon bearing to a roller/ball thrust bearing also need to have the triangular plate removed from the cover, so the bearing presses directly against the spring fingers. Is the old one like this? David "David Jacobs" 37237... MORE
I guess I wasn't clear. I meant to cement shiny Aluminum foil to the back side of a regular heat shield to increase the amount of heat reflected away from the carbs. Bob A simple insulation trick would be to take some contact cement and slather the "hot" side of the heat shield and then press and roller on some aluminum foil, shinny side out. That would increase the reflectivity of the shield and only cost about $0.02 USD. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37217... MORE
Is this leaded or unleaded, Jim?? I'm running tuned, hi-compression tyres so "suitable" is of extreme importance you see. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37175... MORE
A simple insulation trick would be to take some contact cement and slather the "hot" side of the heat shield and then press and roller on some aluminum foil, shinny side out. That would increase the reflectivity of the shield and only cost about $0.02 USD. Bob "Robert D. Gardner" 37191... MORE
"and as everyone knows, a basic solution will retard corrosion"...uh not quite...as everyone knows aluminum is amphoteric and will dissolve quite happily in alkaline solution. Not a problem if everything is cast iron, but if you're running an aluminum water pump or cylinder head -OOPS!!! "joe blxfstz" 37122... MORE
Well, Bob, I have pretty fair sex...but that really isn't any of your business, now, is it? (references available upon request) ;) I ass-u-me-d the reference was to liquid detergent, too. I am an engineer, though domestic activities are limited to...well, I've already stated it's none of anyone's business...what the detergent does is two fold - 1. through the nature of the covalant bonding, contaminants are suspended in solution so they aren't deposited here and there in the low flow areas of the coolant (and, in the sink, they go down the drain with the water) 2. the pH... MORE
Two bolts in back accessed from within the car and two nuts holding studs in the front, accessed from under the car. "Jim" 37075... MORE
OK, Rob C. Belay the first paragraph of my previous post then. Now that I know the circumstances, I totally agree with your mech. in that you need to "vent" the crankcase, either to the airfilters (if possible) or to atmospher via a "breather" similiar to the one you can find at www.speedwellengineering.com under "performance, misc.". These breather cans are also available for more reasonable prices from Jeg's and/or Summit . Open up whatever vents you have on the valve cover and skip the charcoal cannister competely with respect to the motor. Now, because the fuel system is closed... MORE
Cap'n The car cam with a ZS150. I transplanted a Spitfire 1300 carb/manifod setup. The original set up had a valve cover tube and a carb tube that connected to a charcoal canister along with the fuel vent tubing. The pro I had work on the car is good. His opinion is that I need negative pressure off the valve cover which between a 30 year old cannister and some suspect tubing connections I am not getting. Most of the original emmissions equipment was gone when I got the car. The motor is a fresh rebuild. Rob C Webfoot... MORE
Robbie.... I don't think the two are related. I think your motor has a case of "blow b y" of combustion gasses past the rings into the crankcase. I am not sure what emissions equipment you still have on your motor and do not "know" much about 1500's at all but, the feed from the charcoal cannister to the valve cover is intake air into the crankcase through a "graduated orifice" which normally works together with the "exhau st" side of this equation which feeds a graduated amount of crankcase gasses to the combustion chamber through a PCV valve... MORE
Folks, Am finally, after 6 years, getting to enjoy my LBC ('75 1500) but I still have some issues. Suggestions have been made and I was hoping group members might comment. After having my twin carb setup tweaked by a "pro" I started leaking oil out of the dipstick. Sealing the joint helped but has not cured the problem which seems to occur at sustained higher speeds and RPM's. It has been suggested that instead of running the valve cover breather tube to the charcoal cannister that I run it into the back of the air cleaner for better... MORE
I thought you might like to see these stats about dragsters. It is surprising and amazing. Bob Dragsters..... Cool info about dragsters.......... * One Top Fuel dragster 500 cubic inch Hemi engine makes more horsepower than the first 4 rows of race cars at the Daytona 500. * Under full throttle, a dragster engine consumes 1=BD gallons of nitromethane per second. * A stock Dodge Hemi V8 engine cannot produce enough power to even drive the dragster supercharger. * With 3000 CFM of air being rammed in by the supercharger on overdrive, the fuel mixture is compressed into a... MORE
While trying to reassemble the head of a 1500cc midget I managed to strip the thread of a nut. I hadn't crossed the thread. I was using a Torque wrench and was at least 10% under the Haynes manual recommend torque of 46lbf ft. (I was very relieved when I found out it was just the nut cause I had assumed it would be the stud.) I was now going to replace all of the nuts, does any one know the thread size? Is there any where I can find out thread sizes for various items? Also I presume... MORE
Hello, Well it's a sad day I have to sell my Sprite. Life and school don't seem to agree with my little English car. Here is a list of all the goodies that it has: Some details are: Engine 1089cc bored .040 over Intake valve is 1 5/16"(Rimflow) Exhaust valve is1 1/16 (Rimflow) The head has been ported and has a 10:1 compression ratio. The cam specs are duration @ .020 (In./Ex.) 268-272. Rockers ratio is 1.5:1 Duplex adjustable cam gear Also has Isky duel value springs. Pistons are flattop Hepolites Heavy-duty radiator/with 10" fan Twin HS2s with red... MORE
Don't forget to check the cylinder head face is flat. Check the valve seats for pitting/burning. If they're not too bad, lightly grind the valves in, if it's really bad, consider getting the head converted to unleaded (something to think about anyway) Regarding the choke cable, if you're not messing about with the carbs, other than taking them off the head, leave them on the manifold with the cables connected. Other than that, get some small spanners! If you can't find any to buy, get a cheapo one and modify it to fit. Heat it up and hammer it... MORE
I am mid way though replacing the head gasket on my '76 Midget. I am going to replace all the gaskets you get with the kit but I was wondering if there is anything else worth doing while I have the chance? I have already flushed out the radiator. My engine is a little sooty around the valves faces but nothing too bad. THe pistons bore are all nice and smooth. Also is there a special techinque for getting the choke wire off the carburettor? The nuts are too samll for any of my spanners. Cheers Gav. "gav_newman" 36921... MORE
Surely ya'll do not think this will go for 782 ?? Not likely. I would bid if it was closer to me. Bill French Hilton Head, SC '59 Bugeye "73 RWA frenchww@... 36920... MORE
Ole.... in conjunction with my recent post of a few moments ago....and my prior experience with ww's.....air is escaping from t he tube somewhere...maybe the valve area, maybe not. It will have to be pul led and an inspection carried out for specifics. Cap'n Bob '60 :{) "Robert E. Shlafer" 36912... MORE
Not to butt in here men...but.... with aircraft, the wheel and tire are marked as a "match" before the combo is installed on the aircraft. During use, if these marks move from this position, the combo is removed (tube moved in tire causing p ressure on valve stem..possible leak/failure) and the unit returned to the shop for "overhaul". Cap'n Bob '60 :{) "Robert E. Shlafer" 36911... MORE
