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If you can pull the tube oout with the nut tightened, that is your problem. There should be a ferrule in the end of the tube that the nut holds but compression. You probably need news fuel feed lines between the jet and the float. I think the jet comes with these as an assembly. Gerard "gerardchateau" 25528... MORE
I have been watching this thread, and have missed where the oil is coming from. I had a problem with my Bugeye (1275) a while back in that it was cold and I was putting 20/50 oil in. The oil was right, but the tempature was too cold and the oil was too thick to go back down the pushrod holes. I found a leak at the back of my valve cover, and I had "OIL, OIL Everywhere" Since he says that his engine is cold, and he just bought the car, I am wondering, 1. did you change... MORE
I made my statement...and I usually never reply a second time... but regardless of what 'tach' manuals say... I'll stick to 'real life' experience and training anytime. And as someone else just mentioned... the 'grade 8' most mention these days did not exist 'way back when' Oh..and to whom ever mentioned grade 8 and something about crank main and rod bolts. I will blatantly say you're WAY off. Head bolts/studs, crank and rod bolts are not 8. they are usually SDF and CHQ grade as even grade 8 is below aircraft quality and by spec is allowed to contain... MORE
"Ok, I exaggerated" Oh....ok. 'Cause you never know, Kevin... people do put different engines in these cars from time to time. So...back on track. I would go with the Bob Gardner idea regarding running the engine without the valve cover and seeing whether the oil is flowing freely down the lifter holes back down into the block..... and let us know. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25523... MORE
Hello all, Well, I fired her back up today. Put my hand over the oil filler hole, and let it idle. There was no significant vaccuum and no significant air pressure. The valve cover filled about an inch and a half full of oil, with oil coming up the push rod tubes. I'm sure it would have kept going , but I shut it down. As I mentioned earlier, it sounds fine once it gets warmed up. It isn't missing and has good oil pressure. (although the oil gauge doesn't work (Problem #312 of 1067...get to that one later...)... MORE
Well Don May.... The crankcase takes incoming air from the charcoal cannister through a "graduated orifice" feed tube mounted on the valve cover, assuming the valve cover has a non-vented oil filler cap. The "exhaust" side would be the hose coming from the cannister on the timing case cover which vents into the intake system via individual hoses which feed a "graduated orifice" within each carburator. In this instance, while the engine is running, Kevin removed the oil filler cap and noticed no vacuum or pressure. So even though Kevin states the individual hoses to each carb appear pinched,... MORE
Kevin... You engine looks nothing like the engine in the Haynes manual? Hmmm.... Well...a picture is worth a thousand words, Kev. Those hoses to the carburators from the cannister on the timing chain cover should definitely be clear and open.... no doubt about this. If the valve cover was on the engine when you were running it, then with every respect, Kevin, there is no way you could tell where the oil was coming from... the oil filler hole is too small to provide a decent view and through this small hole, not enough light in there...to dark in... MORE
Naw. It would be nearly impossible to have too much oil from the rocker assy, and the movement of the push rods (which move somewhat sideways as well as up and down) would prevent the holes from plugging up. What you've got is excessive crankcase pressure, which prevents the oil draining back into the sump. Since the engine sat for a long time, may have multiple broken piston rings, possibly a broken piston. Have a compression test done. If compression is good, then the problem is plugged up or disconnected crankcase ventilation system. With the oil fill cap removed,... MORE
Jeff Holmes states: "Naw" Could be, Jeff. But I know a guy who raced a Spridget up at Lime Rock that had the exact problem I speak of....now this isn't a racing application as far as we know...but we don't know otherwise either....this could be a street tuned motor for all we know...lister didn't say and probably doesn't know.... excessive rocker clearances with otherwise good bearing clearances reasonably good oil pressure which could flood the valve area in a hearbeat. That's why I asked this lister if he had oil going by the lower engine seals and out the... MORE
Bradsky... Milling the head slightly will have no ill effect upon anything, considering how little you are removing, assuming it had stock 21cc chambers to begin with. As a matter of fact, milling the head rather than going to flattops is the preferred way of raising the compression ratio moderately according to Dave Vizard, this having a more salutory effect on combustion/flow characteristics than a piston configuration change. For racing, the factory goes to 16.4cc chambers before they start raising compression by changing piston configuration so I guess this is the safe limit before head strength is compromised. What... MORE
Hi Kevin, As Cap'n suggests, too much oil frpm the rocker assembly OR blocked or restricted oil passages where the pusrods pass through. I'd be surprised if it had oversized ones, so more likely restricted. Could be a combination of both. Welcome to the list. As a newcomer. I invite you to check out my web site... lots of useful info for you and lots of fun stuff too. http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm Gerard "gerardchateau" 25400... MORE
Hello, I recently purchased a 1974 MG Midget. I had a mechanic (not especially knowledgable with British cars) go over the entire thing and get it road worthy as it was parked for a long time. I put about 50 miles on it in August, and suddenly I have oil pushing up through the oil cap. It leaks all over the head and then gets on the manifold and burns. THis all happens after about 1 minute of idling. I drained the oil, thinking that it was overfilled, but it only had just over 2 litres in it. (Capacity... MORE
Drag, Don May....non-turning T/O bearing ...."bearing" upon pressure plate. You will also notice with the stock carbon throw-out bearing that the starter will turn the engine over faster if the clutch is not depressed during the start, except in real cold weather when the drag of extremely thick transmission oil causes more drag than the throwout bearing/pressure plate drag situation. Then...start with the clutch pedal depressed of course Much less drag with "roller" types now available in place of original carbon types. The "rollers" allow the T/O bearing face to turn (less drag) as it engages the pressure plate....... MORE
Hi, Kevin... You will eventually hear from a lot of others on this I'm sure, in time. If the oil pressure is good (10psi or more at idle and about 60psi running at 3,000 rpm or better), two things come immediately to mind, considering it's coming out the oil filler hole and not out between the block/head. 1. excessive clearances in the rocker system between bush/shaft and/or 2. larger than normal pushrods (aftermarket "performance") which may be slowing oil flow back down into the crankcase as these can be thicker in diameter than stock. I am assuming the engine... MORE
Kevin. When the oil starts to puke out of the valve cover oil filler cap, quickly take off the cap and check for two things. First see it the valve cover is actually full or almost full of oil and bubbles are causing the oil popping out or check for too much positive crank case pressure by putting your hand over the open oil filler hole and sealing it up for about 30 seconds and lifting your palm. Do you get a gigantic "WHOOSH" of pressure or just a little "fiffft" of pressure. Then report back to the LBC... MORE
"the 45 has always had a flat spot" Well, a "tendency" toward this for sure, though. Not mine! :) It came with the Weber 6" long intake manifold to begin with, and the length of the intake manifold makes all sorts of difference to the whole application in all sorts of ways. Generally speaking, longer is better for the low end. It also came with the smaller 3.5 aux. venturi's unlike some other kits which come with larger 4.5's, the smaller aux. venturi allowing earlier commencement of flow from the main system during acceleration, thus shortening the period of... MORE
Well it's about time. My 71 MG is back and refurbed. While it was apart for a new clutch disc, why not put a Datsun 5 speed in it? 266 cam, lite lifters, right springs, new shells on the still-standard crank, Cooper S 163 head with rimflows and ported, 45DCOE, and LCB, with a Kenlowe to cut cooling losses. Cooper S dizzy. I want a merit badge for making the Rivergate kit work. It is not easy for one who must follow directions literally. Much more difficult than it needs to be, for me, anyway. I know many listers... MORE
Don May!! Pilot bearings are soaked in oil overnight or even longer.....the metal absorbs the oil and the bearing becomes self-lubricating. I have also heard of roller bearing types being available but have never seen or used one... Can somebody clue me in? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25226... MORE
Well said, Don May... You hit the nail on the head..exactly spot on. This is the position I found myself in, more or less. Prior to knowing about the Datsun 5 speed, I attacked "the problem" by moving the whole rpm range upscale to 7-7.5k rpm by "Vizarding" a 1275 and making 4-4.5k rpm a comfortable cruising rpm. Supertuning the motor to take higher rpm is not inexpensive... for it's operating range is just short of a track motor. Weber 45DCOE, bigger valves, prepared head, VP3 cam and 1.5 rollers, big bore LCB and large diameter free-flow exhaust system... MORE
"have I lost the point of this thread" LOL, Guy.... No....it's most likely on the top of my head. :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 25195... MORE
Stewart..... If your engine is tuned for the high end (and it certainly sounds this way.."useless road engine"...."lumpy idle"), then going to a 3.7 will make it more a useless road engine in terms of the low end. So...it you are using the car mostly at highway speeds (say, 3k or higher) than no problem. Town driving will become more of a hassle as you'll be at lower rpm more of the time at lower speeds, unless you retain lower gears more of the time then you are currently used to. The more available 3.9 might make for a... MORE
I want to put a coin box on it, and mount it on a pedestal in front of the local supermarket as an amusement ride? When you are retired on a fixed income one must come up with ingenious ways to support the spridget habit. :-) I was working out in the driveway yesterday and a fellow saw a couple of my spridgets and commented that he once had a collection of 13 Nash Metropolitans. Men and their one-up-man-ship. All I really want to do is mount my spare the engine and transmission back in my 69 parts car... MORE
...the pursuit of excellence. Making a watermelon out of a pineapple. All you need is plenty of bondo...LOL Funny you shpuld make that analogy, I have a photograph of a cut open pineapple and the inside flesh is watermelon. I've had this since way before Photoshop was a vision Thomas Knoll's head so it either a clever photo composite or someone actually created it in real life. Anyway, the other trick to good body work is getting the metal where it is supposed to be as opposed to fabricating it from plastic. Hammer and dolly work comes first. Gerard... MORE
Don, Depending on the severity or gentleness of the curve, use a longer or shorter board for sanding. (Steep curves= shorter board.) For inside (concave curves) use a cardboard roll or a very short nap paint roller woth sandpaper rolled around it. Also, remember I told you to sand "crosshatch" so you avoid low/high spots. This is especially true for curved areas. It does take some artistry , a sensitive touch and a good eye though. Did you buy the guide coat like I suggested? This helps a lot too as vents you from sanding too much. You should... MORE
From: gerardchateau To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2003 1:15 PM Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Compound curves Don, Depending on the severity or gentleness of the curve, use a longer or shorter board for sanding. (Steep curves= shorter board.) For inside (concave curves) use a cardboard roll or a very short nap paint roller woth sandpaper rolled around it. Also, remember I told you to sand "crosshatch" so you avoid low/high spots. This is especially true for curved areas. It does take some artistry , a sensitive touch and a good eye though. Did you buy the guide coat like... MORE
