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Hey Don May.... I have the Facet LP (2.5-4.5 or 2.0-4.0) and am running without a press. reg. on the basically stock carbs. No probleemos amigo. :) Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 38035... MORE
Jim, I might share with you the start up procedure my dad taught me. I think it works well for older rebuilt motors, not the new crate motors of today etc. When ready to start, add regular oil, 30w or even 20w single weight out of the ground oil. Pull plugs after static timing, a squirt of oil in the cylinders, crank engine with plugs out and ignition off until you see oil pressure. Even better to have the valve cover off to make sure oil reaches the rockers. Put in plugs and valve cover. Put pans of tap... MORE
I have dug around some more and my latest thinking is that it may be from the MG1300! The block has a cast 12G on it at the rear below the manifolds which seems to indicate it is from the MG1300 saloon but I need to confirm this is what it means as I don't know if inline and fwd blocks could be interchangeable? It does have the standard head with correct size valves for the Midget, corrrect size bores and no tappet covers for a 1275 and oil filter forward of the dizzy. It does seem to be... MORE
G'day all Well this guy describes this as: 3000 MkI MkII MkIII Sprite Healey bugeye bj8 bn1/bn2 and it isn't, but isn't it wonderful? Someone must want to buy it! Can't you just see it with a small block Chevy and air suspension? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very-Early-Austin-complete-rolling-chassis-Vintage-part_W0QQitemZ7989430709QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Now this is an incredible item. It is a blanking plug that replaces the distributor. WOW, just think how long each tank of gas will last! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7989275125&category=72205&rd=1 avagoodday Colin "Colin Dodds" 37990... MORE
Hi Bruce, When you open it up, likely all the internals, rods, crank, pistons, cam, etc., will take standard components. There isn't a whole lot of variation on those parts for fit. You can check rod, crank numbers and sometimes piston numbers, so it's not likely something built by the CIA! Best, Paul A "Paul Asgeirsson" 37997... MORE
G'day Wolf The seat bases and backs are totally interchangeable, until 1966 when they went to tubular frames. The bases are different, but only because the Bugeye seats had a mesh insert at the base (for drainage?). Otherwise the size and shape are identical to Mk II and Mk III seats. I will send you pictures. The backs are the same size, shape and curvature, but the later ones were a little stiffer. Bottom line is: strip off the vinyl and foam, clean and paint them, and re-trim them in the Bugeye pattern, and no-one will ever know the... MORE
I got some racing 13x6s made by Aero for $40 a piece - the good news/bad news was that I had to replace my studs with 7/16" ones so I could run the correct lug nuts (1"). I had to find a dealer willing to call the factory for them. Bart makes some as well, but they were out of them right now. Jackie Cooper "Jackie Cooper" 37976... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
G'day Jim Joe's correct when he says :"A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill" However, these cars were/are designed for light weight synthetic oils. For example, often you will find overhead camshafts running directly in aluminium cylinder heads, with no intervening bearing material. Your car was designed with larger tolerances, and required a heavier grade oil. Rebuilding it doesn't change that. We use a standard mineral based oil (Penrite HPR30 which is 20W60 weight) in both road and race engines, and never have a problem with it. About 12 months ago we... MORE
Most of the places which sell car paint also have rubber bumper black too. "joe blxfstz" 37953... MORE
Dear Jody, Welcome to this plane of reality. I have a 75 rubber bumper and got rid of them due to cosmetics (they probably looked like yours) and to improve the car. If you remove the bumper in front you will have two large rectangular holes in the lower part of the front of each wing. You will also have two frame members that protrude through the grill opening flush with the front body work. My car will look exactly like a pre-rubber model when done. I cut off the frame memebers as closely as possible and welded in... MORE
Hi Everyone, My name is Jody and I just joined the group. I have been given a 1976 1500 MG. I plan on restoring it over the next year or so. It is in pretty good shape and should not require any major body work. Rust is very minimal. Here is my first question: This MG is of course one of the rubber- bumper versions. The rubber is worn and a little rough. I assume it must have sat outside here in Utah for a while as it looks like wind and sun damage. What are my best options... MORE
Welcome to the group! A company called SEM makes black paint that is designed to go over rubber bumpers. Here are two sources chosen at random.. . http://www.levineautoparts.com/sembumcoatae.html http://jcsonlinetoolshed.com/product.php/11786/225/ If you really want to consider going through the conversion to chrome, look at this page... http://npmccabe.tripod.com/mgbumpers.htm Before you do anything, you might want to try cleaning the bumpers, then drenching the bumpers in armor-all, let it sit overnight, then wipe it down. I don't know what they look like but they may be more salvageable than you think. Good luck, Steve www.1978mgmidget.com Steven Michelsen 37952... MORE
A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill, no special oil for break in. For a complete rebuild to factory or better tolerances, I'd think 10W30, but you might prefer 15W50. Since the price of petroleum oil has increased so much, and Mobil 1 is $4/qt at Wal-Mart, I've started running it in everything, Sprite, Caddy, Volvo, lawn mowers, generator. Keeps things simple. An early (500 miles?) oil change might be a good idea, sort of just in case there's something unexpected left in the engine. I once did an instrumented test with... MORE
Some may remember my telling of my purchase on Ebay of an Haynes MGB manual, and a Haynes Weber manual (includes SU and Stromberg) at a good price. Well, the seller, Bookmarz, has apparently just given them to me free. I tracked them when they didn't show up in 10 days, and got a form letter email back telling me how to trace the shipment on their web page. I waited a couple of days and tried again, and when no info showed on the tracking site, I emailed a complaint. They sent the same form letter again and... MORE
Mike, My 75 had the manual choke but I would recommend using a stock set up first and then make improvements. Manual conversion kits are readily available from Vicky B anyway. You SHALL NOT remove the gearbox unless thou has first shifted the motor to a special place........... outside the car. If you're sticking with the Stromberg definitely buy the tool. Rob C-FINALLY enjoying his Midget Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37913... MORE
Hi, Jed! I live in a nice neighborhood, and my `79 Midget is garaged. However, I sometimes park in less than desirable areas and I have had issues with young jerks throwing beer cans, McDonald's waste, etc. into the cockpit of my car if not covered with a tonneau - in broad daylight in mall parking lots, etc.!! Also had a radio stolen once (before the car was garaged). The idiots tore open the top with a knife to crawl into the cockpit and ripped out the entire console. Radio was a Blaupunt with a "code," so it was... MORE
It is because the original 4 cyl versions were really just VW's put togethe r at the Porsche factory, at least according to the book. Brad "" 37895... MORE
G'day guys Here's a little story that deserves to be told. Way back last August, I bought a used Datsun 5-speed box in the US, and had it shipped to Paul Asgeirsson at Morriservice to be rebuilt. A mate of mine was coming home from the US, and between the two of us we arranged Paul to supply two 5-speed conversion kits, my gearbox and another one for my mate. Well eventually they arrived, and in March my 5-speed Datto box and a kit went to another mate (Steve) 600 miles away, down in Melbourne. Steve fitted it to... MORE
HI Colin, Just got back from a great weekend with my GF, which included taking in the Forest Grove Concourse d'Elegance. Gotta give extra strokes to a gal, non car person, who will traipse along with me looking at incredibly restored and original cars in 90 degree weather. Mostly shaded, fortunately. Going through my email and came across this nice compliment from you and Steve. I've never had a 5 speed fail like that before so was most interested in finding out what happened. After Steve tore it down and sent e photos to me, there simply was no... MORE
Clean off all the corrosion with a scotch brite pad or stiff brush, wash with detergent,rinse, dip in a solution of 1 part in 10 household vinegar for 10-15 seconds, rinse, dry, and prime with any bare metal primer. The Krylon stuff from Wal-Mart is fine, then top coat with color. "joe blxfstz" 37863... MORE
Anybody any ideas on the best way to paint alloy castings? I need to repaint the alloy (zinc alloy?) castings on my steering wheel boss and am not sure what surface preparaion it needs to make sure the paint stays on! "Bruce" 37862... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
From: fjohnson@... To: jimj@... Sent: Thu, 7 Jul 2005 21:17:51 +0100 Subject: MG ownership message This email was created on Thursday 07th July 2005 at 21:17:51 GMT from the MG enthusiasts web site at http://www.british-cars.co.uk Member 'Butch2' who is Butch W Johnson sent the following message to you: ************************************************************************ Dear MG Enthusiast, Dear J.R. great last name!! I am in Oswego, KS near Joplin and I have a 19 79 MG Midget that I have resored for my wife. I recently had a bearing proble m and have decided to do a complete rebuild. My question is do you... MORE
there. Two years later and I should have the car back on the road by mid July. I've replaced the stock manifold/exhaust with headers and a bit larger diameter exhaust pipe. If you're interested let me know. PS: The stock manifold is available also. Jim C 73 Midget 67 MGB "Jim Crowder" 37790... MORE
