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There should be a little square box between the top and bottom hinges for the switch; it has two holes facing outwards (one for the switch body, one for the self tapping screw that holds it in place) The wiring passes through the box and then through the footwell side. If it's not there, it's possible that the A post has been replaced with the wrong one (not sure if you can actually get later ones with the box built in?) as these are notorious rust areas. If this is the case, you might need to fabricate some sort... MORE
Alan Would it matter how it was painted? As long as someone's willing to put in the work in prep, filling, stopping, flatting, cutting back they could still end up with a Concours paint job from rattle cans - it would be the hard way round mind. The spraying is just the icing on the cake, the real results come from the above. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23913... MORE
Sure, Mike... I already have the outside air intake hole fabricated and a 4" rubber tube for the mailbox I bought to be used as a "cold air box". I will "fashion" it once I have decided whether to stay with the double SU set-up or go with my 45 DCOE. Gotta do a little experimenting with various choke sizes on the Weber first, though. The box will breath engine compartment air in the winter months and cooler outside air (for better performance) in the warmer months. Best of both worlds! :) Paint your box with whatever paint/ color... MORE
Hello there I am currently finishing of a restoration that someone else had started of a UK model 1978 1500 Midget. I was wondering if any one with a similar model had any photos of where the courtesy light switches are mounted on the door posts and also any info about the boot lamp and switch. I have the wiring information it is just the physical locations as I have no information to where they should be located. thanks in advance for any help Kris "Kris" 23907... MORE
You got it, David, whatever it is.... that's exactly the right color. In my case, it was definitely coming from the gas tank or system components of my old '74 Spridget. But the car "went" before I renewed the tank so I never really got to check the tank as a source but expect it was corrosion from within. Tank had been on the car from the day it left the factory with about 13-15 years on it so I got a feeling this is where this microscopic stuff was coming from. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23911... MORE
Well folks... As of tonight, the B-GT (67) is nearly ready for the first road test. I need to get a tire tube replaced and check the differential fluid before I drop it onto the ground and try for a short drive. The new parts I needed to order were... Clutch slave cylinder Clutch Slave Hose (2) Break Hoses Misc Spare nuts and bolts Gas Tank Repair stuff Trans Mounts (rubber) Engine Mounts New Clutch system (disk, plate and through-out) Tire Tube Thermostate gasket (not installed yet - extra) Falve Cover gasket A few extra rubber pieces. The hardest... MORE
No problem, As you say Bob, It was most likely a small flake of rust that was hiding after I cleaned the tank and lines after it sat all those years, it chose a bad moment to break free and create havoc. Sand was, shall we say . . . creative license :-) Don "Don May" 23916... MORE
It just so happens my own car was used for an Autoweek magazine Yes... a spray can paint job. the photographer was stunned!. http://www.autoweek.com/search/search_display.mv?port_code=&cat_code=thecar&content_code=05298985&Search_Type=STD&Search_ID=271410&record=1 It simply takes a bit more wet sanding than perhaps a good spray gun and really good quality paint. ...and NO...the author is not related, maybe 23rd cousins or something .... but since he lived within driving distance...he figured he just had to use my Spit for the article) Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 23896... MORE
The phone rang at 7:30 am Sunday morning "I'm stranded in Angles Camp, Jr. died," Jr. the name he gave the 63 Midget I sold him. "I just need a around town car." He said when he bought it. He had owned a Midget before and I was confidant I was not selling to an innocent in the ways of classic British cars. I had made clear that since I retrieved it from a carpentry work shop where it sat on blocks for twenty years and brought it back to life that I had not driven it over five... MORE
It looks a little like he painted it with rattle cans. I hope it was Rustoleum. Did anybody ever paint a car with spray cans and have any success? Allen Hefner Phila. Region SCCA Rally Steward '77 MG Midget (#51 FSP) '75 MG Midget (The Project) '99 Ford Contour SE Sport (24v V6) - - - - - - - - - - ajhsys@... 23891... MORE
Masking . . . what is masking? You like the way half the dash was over sprayed? Yes, if it were local I would jump to buy it at 500 no matter how much he PO did not understand the concept of masking. Logic and reason fails again. A dashboard is not like windows where you can scrape off the excessive paint with a razor blade. Don "Don May" 23889... MORE
I have to sell my project I have over $4000.00 into it. It is Right Hand Drive with all new parts from the UK, 948cc motor and ribcase tranny, just dropped back in, webber side draft with cannon intake, new alum valve cover tons of extra parts, custom wheels custom side skirts, vintage custom bonnet. I will sell it a few ways. The bonnet is one of only three left in the world and has racing history and documents. Clean California title. Complete $3000.00 with bonnet Complete less bonnet $1500.00 Rolling body less bonnet and drive train $900.00 Motor... MORE
Nelson... Frank used POR15 on his floors and they still rotted out beneath the coating. This resulted in an Italian burn....IOW, he was somewhat less than amused. Neither Diane, Tiffany or the cats could soothe him. His son, who was out destroying his VW at the time his Dad fell through the POR15 coated floor (at about 60 or so, traveling down the NJ turnpike) added fuel to he fire by failing to empathize while asking Frank for yet another coupla thousand bucks to rebuild his VW's blown engine, once again. Obviously, not a good day for Frank. Thus,... MORE
Guy I popped into Halfords today looking for some of that Jenolite rust treatment - they didn't have any. I did get some Hammerite Kurust, which seems to do the same job so I think I'll try that. I'm beginning to hate Hammerite products, whilst they do, do the job, they're way over priced for what they are - ho hum. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23811... MORE
Alan, in the UK go to a motor factors and buy a tin of seam sealer. It can be trowled or brushed into seams after the first paint coats. It is compatable with paint finishes and although it hardens, it remains pliable enough not to crack. Don't use cellulose putty or fibreglass resin. They go hard, shrink, crack allow moisture in and generally don't do a good job. Petrol or parrafin is the best thing for removing the residue of any underseal, then finish off with a good engine degreasant. Guy UK, oop north "Guy Weller" 23798... MORE
Alan It seems you're following in my footsteps or viceversa, having done/doing this exact same job myself. Perhaps you can benefit from my experience. First off, forget using any kind of power tool on the underseal its a waste of time. The technique that I found works reasonably well on removing the underseal is as follows, I'm afraid however you tackle this job, it's not pleasant, will take ages is boring and messy as hell. I found using a heat gun and scraper worked really well getting off the bulk of the underseal. Just heat it up enough for... MORE
Hi, I've just spent the afternoon sitting in the engine bay of the 72 midget scraping all the PO applied black underseal type paint . a.. I can't get it all off by grinding or scraping , it just goes gooey and spreads around and clogs the flap wheel. b.. Any ideas for removal ?, Petrol, flamethrower (Brad?), or just keep scraping and sanding? c.. When I did get some of it off, I found some hard cream coloured putty* had also been applied to some seams before the original spray coat.(Damask ). This did chip off however. d..... MORE
Jim.... "Thanks", yourself!! :):) You either don't have a maint. manual or are not reading it, I guess. Well, no matter. :) You cannot check effective operation of the manifold mounted PCV valve by taking it apart. It is tested on a running engine at idle... if it is working correctly, the idle will increase by around 200rpm when you remove the "vented/filtered" oil cap (which you are using in accordance with your manual, right?:) For with respect to the manifold mounted stock PCV valve....there are no other restrictors in this system...IT is THE restrictor! It is also diaphragm... MORE
gztracker: How about using a stock PCV valve as shown in the manual? Or, is this part no longer available? Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23791... MORE
Can anyone give me the description of the restrictors that I think should be in the tube from the timing case to the PCV valve. I have just rebuilt my '68 1275 engine and it is sucking enough oil through the oil seperator to go through the engine. I tried a 1/8" restrictor and had much oil out the rear seal(screw). I then put a 5/16" inch restrictor closer to the PVC valve and it seems to do much better. I have found no information other than a reference to tube and restrictor in the Hayes manual. Thanks Jim... MORE
Uhm, I forgot the original question. :-) If your car doesn't have excessive bounce, then what was your concern? Does it drift excessively when hitting a bump in the curve? Is the front loose in all turns? Does it wander on staight and flat roads? Has the front end ever been rebuilt? Does your steering rack have play? Let's see if we can find another topic to "discuss". Maybe we should start another thread if you feel there is still something amiss in car's handling. Another thought: What if the PO put too heavy of an oil in the... MORE
G'day guys Just thought I would add my thoughts on the over/under heating problem. My race car has a radiator I had made about 7 years ago. 3 cores and it's so thick it has cut-outs to clear the steering rack mounts! On a 100 F day, I can't get it to heat up. I warm it to around 180 F in the pits, go out for a 10 lap race and come in at 170 F. I was recently asked by a customer to make a copy of the radiator for his car, so with 7 years now... MORE
David Yes I think you're right, but when you consider that's original paint underneath the bonnet you know that car's been well loved and looked after. It wouldnt take much at all to get that car in concours condition. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 23771... MORE
"I would suggest....Datsun 5-speed" Food worth thought, IMHO. Yes...the 5 speed simply "transforms" the car....for sure! Peace and quiet of operation, fully synchro with slightly lower first three gears for xcellent acceleration, while retaining the normal 1-1 4th and engine/fuel saving "overdrive" 5th. And "rebuilt" boxi available for 1/2 the cost of "stock" box (not that you'll probably ever need one considering the HP/torque of the original 210 the box was designed for....but, in the event!:) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 23777... MORE
I'm not going to say that money is not an issue, but I could convert to tube shocks now by engineering and fabricating my own system for a modest outlay in materials. (time is not currently an issue.) This would allow me flexibility in the type of shocks I could fit. Variable dampening and adjustable dampening are quickly becoming affordable. I eventually would like to have the shocks dampening controlled by remote. It may sound like a "just a gimmick"(and in many ways it is), but my driving needs are so varied that it might be advantageous. I read... MORE
