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"Try being in a factory...." No A/C obviously, Brad. Bad news. :( Good news! :) Dennis Leary is getting "roasted" on the Comedy Channel! Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24267... MORE
Stewart I really don't see what the problem is here and what it is that you don't understand. Unfortunately I do not have the book you refer to, I do however have parts manuals for all series of Spridgets and I can tell you with utmost certainty that the floor pan for a 1/4 elliptic Mk1 sprite is NOT The same as the floor pan for the semi elliptic later cars. OK but you must have the moss parts catalouge then where it states that the later floorpan can be used on early cars with little modification.. well I... MORE
As you all know, I live for yard sales and flea markets. I found some 1962 Life magazines today, I bought them for the car adverts inside. The seller also included a few other magazines. Some are from 1955, there are two Radio & Television News (Jan and Feb), and two RADIO-ELECTRONICS Television-Servicing-High Fidelity (Mar and Nov) There is even an article on servicing color television. I also have a 1963 catalog from Burstein-Applebee Co for Radio-TV and Electronics. Anyway, Robert Gardner can have first dibs if he wants them, but if not, anyone else interested? Interesting trades for... MORE
Whooooooooooo This is going to be an interesting thread. As far as BMIHT Trace certificates are concerned heres the details from mine, I've blanked out the numbers with X's for security reasons. Production Trace Certificate Number 92/6157 MG Midget Mark III Car/Chassis No. G-AN5/8660X-G Engine No. 12CE-DA-H/XXXXX Body No. 67XXX Specification: RHD, Home market Colour Exterior: Blue Royale Colour Trim: Black Colour Hood: Black Date built: 18 May - 2 June 1970 Date despatched: 8 June 1970 Destination Dealer: University Motors Limited, London Other Numbers Gearbox, 56XXX, Rear axle 14XXX Key numbers: FS.XXX, FS.XXX Details of Equipment: Wire Wheels,... MORE
Well... either carb could be run with basically the same system. I'm just talking it up a bit to learn more, bearing in mind and considering the garbage that came with my stock '74, which had the SU's of course, with all of the "closed loop" stuff. So damn long ago it is difficult for me to recall. One thing is for sure...if you pull some of this stuff off or out of the system (as in de-smogging), you have to go to a vented cap or you get fuel starvation when you truly put your foot in it... MORE
Brad, I have my certificate, it tells you the original color, the extras, delivery date and to whom, in some cases they will even send you the original owner info. As to the bolt colors, Nope. But if anyone could answer your question I imagine it would be Richard Brotherton at the BMHT. He is their research GURU and recently sent me additonal info on my 60 as to the number it was in line to be built for the Home Market.(# 367 in 1960) I will find his number, as soon as I unpack my office and send... MORE
OK assuming you also have the super profile by Lindsay Porter take a look on Page 41, this shows the interior of the area in question quiet well! Now the floor panel pressing never changed from 1958 - 1979, the captive nuts that hold quarter or semi elliptic spring hangers to the floor are in the same place. This means that the bolts that hold one to the floor can be used to hold Mk1 spring hangers in the correct place on a later shell. Ok the part that runs up the vertical face that holds the upper link... MORE
Stewart Well, the spring hanger structures on the Mk1 Sprite are quite different to the spring hanger structures on the 1500. Take it from me, the Sprite Mk1 spring hangers are a lot more complex to repair than the relatively simple 1500 one. And the triangulated structure on the 1500 IS needed, as it's a strengthening area for the rear of the car and as such a very important part the monococque structure. Why don't you buy the excellent restoration book 'Guide to Purchase and DIY Restoration, MG Midget and Austin-Healey Sprite by Lindsay Porter, this book deals with... MORE
OK, the area around the spring boxes on the MK1 while physically solid has had patches of steel welded over other patches over the years, and the whole area including the rear inner arch and the reinforcement running round the boot floor like a chassis rail is quiet simply a mess, the whole lot needs cutting out and replacing. Now many years ago my dad and myself cut up a frogeye, and I have had to repair this area on my 1500 shell, and I can tell you one thing for certain, the 1500 shell has within the triangulated... MORE
Stewart That's interesting, Teal Blue was never an OE colour for 1500 Midgets! It does sound as though you have a bit of a 'hybrid' car, a crossover car between the end of the chrome bumper cars and the start of the Rubber Bumper ones. They were well known for using up 'old-stock' components on the revised range. My own 1971 car is a little like this, having a bonnet prop, yet telescopic stay for the boot! The first RB cars were made in September 1974, first chassis number being GAN6-154101. I'm not really sure what you're trying to... MORE
Hello.. I have two sprigets.. The first car is a 1974 1500 (yes they do exist as I had to keep telling anyone I orderd parts for it from!)Which I bought in 1988, dorve for 6 months and then stripped, scince then I have replaced the inner and outer sills, repaired the floor and the front chassis sections and inner fornt arches.. restoration has stalled there, and the last time I actulally worked on it was 1991 IIRC! If my research is correct it is the 126th 1500 midget built and it is /was teal blue registerd JMB742N The... MORE
Kevin No need to apologise, it's the old UK/American terminology thing again. Well, from the sounds of it, it's a pretty standard 'body rotten' Spridget! =3D=0D I think you'll also find that the rear spring hangers will need doing as well. You'll need to give this some serious thought, and Robert gave some good advice (if you remove the bit about pop rivetting the floors in!) First off you do need to consider whether you really want to start getting =3D=0D into body repairs yourself. Whilst as I said previously, there really isn't anyt =3D=0D hing bodywork wise on... MORE
Sure it's doable. However, some qeustions to answer first: Do you have the necessary place, tools and skills? Are you willing to lay the car up for - say several hundred man hours of work? How much enjoyment will you get out of doing this? Would it be better to find a non-running, non-rusty car and start your restoration there, using your present car for a parts car? If the floors and sills are gone, I'll bet there's lots more rust waiting for you. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24187... MORE
Kevin First off welcome to Spridget ownership! Unfortunately, you've fallen into the trap many first time buyers of these cars fall into, namely that of purchasing a mechanically sound car that leaves a lot to be desired bodily and structurally. Don't feel bad, many of us have walked this path before you! You have, however, had the sense to limit your investment which is prudent. I'm afraid I am not familiar with the terms 'rocker panels' and 'body tub' or at least I cannot easily translate these terms into actual parts of the car. So until I understand what... MORE
Bob.... I say safety first when it comes to "serious" structure. According to Spridget books I've read, a great deal of structural strength emanates from firewall and is tied into the floors to the rear "bulkhead" which houses the forward rear spring attach points. I could be wrong on this and if I am, I apologize for THIS is the basis of my opinion, which is not very "hands on" learned to the extent of guys like Frank, Chuck, and others far more knowledgeable then I. If the floors and sills were basically sound and mostly there, I might... MORE
I had some problems with my Bugeye about a year ago, turned out to be air leak at the fuel tank/line connection, but in checking, my coil was too hot to touch for more that a second or two. Seems to be normal and I was, and do run standard gap on the plugs with the sports coil. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24181... MORE
Hi guys: I am still in the process of repairing my 1979 midget 1500.got my new carpet kit in and since I do not have any carpet in my car, could someone recommend a site for good, clear pictures of the interior of a later midget? I want to make sure I get the carpet pieces in correctly. If you did carpet kits, what did you use for adhesive? Did you also use snaps or just the adhesive? Parts car: I just bought a parts car its an early 70's or possibly late 60's (I have no title and... MORE
Fully restored and "modernized" Traveller for sale. Power assisted disc brakes completely rebuilt Nissan/Datsun A14 and 5 speed new hydraulics (both brake and clutch) New Ash framing Much, much more. Great looker, reliable and fun transportation. Located in San Francisco Ca. for more details. see links at: http://www.gerardsgarage.com/FS_Garage.htm email me offlist at pixelsmith@... gerard 24175... MORE
First - will someone who has experience resolving off-idle stumble with a Weber DGV on a 1275 please post me off-list. General parameters: 1275, std bore, stock cam, head milled, Crane optical ignition, header. Use an aftermarket electric fuel pump with a pressure regulator set to 3.5 pounds. Engine has never idled this well in the 33 years I've owned it (even as low as 700rpm), idle set at 900rpm, performance above 2000 rpm is excellent. It just stumbles in the 1500 - 1700 rpm range when you hit the gas. Makes double- clutching a bit dicey. Have done... MORE
ALL OF YOU.....GET A LIFE.... I'm trying, Bob!! :) Did a "shoot" down in the Big Apple today and came back to overhaul the SU's and install AH2 needles based upon plug color while using H6's.... time will tell!! Oh yeah....I also fed the cat! O'Reilly Factor at 8:00 and then we'll see...long day! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 24151... MORE
Ah sorry, I didnt even think about having an auto choke the cause. stock "ryanmill1" 24136... MORE
Hello all, new to the list, new to Midgets. Question: I've got a '77 that backfires between shifts under heavy acceleration. I know why; there's excess fuel being dumped into the exhaust between shifts and detonating; I just don't know the cause. The 2 possible causes I've come up with is the air pump is supplying air to the exhaust when it shouldn't (bad valve?) or the non stock exhaust the car has (just 1 tiny Walker muffler) is allowing the fuel laden exhaust to reach air before sufficiently cooled. Which of these are more plausible, or is there... MORE
A friend sent me the dates and info for the big 24th Annual Palo Alto British Car Met coming this Sunday September 14th at El Camino Park in Palo Alto, CA. Thought I would pass some of the info on to the group as an early reminder. Over 600 cars, anything British that moves from Concourse show to works in progress welcome. (No need to hide the daily drivers, less than perfect, and modified on side streets. From prissy to the bizarre welcome.) Saturday the 13th is the Tour to the Sea. A drive from Palo Alto to Half... MORE
G'day Brad The valve stem diameters are the same. You can squeeze 1275cc valves into a 1098cc head (12G295) if you want to, but you will need to open the combustion chamber up quite a bit to allow gas flow around the valve, or you are defeating the purpose. Really no great advantage. 1275cc head will fit on 1098cc block, but if you have a high lift cam, and/or 1.5:1 rockers, the exhaust valves will hit the top of the block face. You will need to machine a crescent out of the block, up to .100" deep (I just... MORE
Arggh Someone save me from this punishment. I think I'm going mad. Yes, many of you probably believe that from recent posts. All this scraping, paint removing, sanding, grinding, is driving me mad. It seems never ending, I'm getting desperate to get some paint on, yet the end is still nowhere in sight! Have pity on this wretched poor soul. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24096... MORE
