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Sounds good. Make a careful check of the known rust spots and if all is OK give the old WaxOyl some welly. Sounds like this chap is a bit like me, only mine is an MG. I hope to be driving mine for a good bit yet though ..... Might even have the original steering wheel! R. "Roger Stinson" 24466... MORE
Hi all- New to forum. Finishing a ten year restoration (aren't MG's like a fine wine?) on my '73 Midget. The door catch/lock on each side is worn. Found striker plates at Moss and Vic Brit but cannot find new catches. Any ideas? Thanks........ Paul "dfwip" 24452... MORE
"Improving cooling" 1. Thorough flush/"reverse flush" of entire system with proprietary "cleaner" 2. *80/20 Distilled Water/Anti-Freeze Mix or 100% Distilled Water with can of proprietary lube/anti-corrosion additive and a couple of drops or diswashing liquid or appropriate amount of "Water Wetter" 3. Modern aluminum "deep impellor" water pump..Colin Dodds reports "County" brand has a slightly deeper impellor than "AE" brand. Both good. 3. ^^Block Cyl. Head/Water Pump Bypass 4. *68C Thermostadt or Blanking Sleeve 5. 4.5" Cooper "S" Water Pump Pulley 6. Recore/upgrade stock rad or go "aluminum" altogether *Summer Only ^^Drill 1/4" hole in thermostadt plate as "new"... MORE
On the Mk2 Midget (Mk3 Sprite) with the 1098 engine and the D I Y hood kit, the ignition and the boot key were definitely different key patterns, with different keys. That is how they left the factory. R "Roger Stinson" 24419... MORE
My book says- March 1964 A-H Sprite MK III #H-An8 38829 to H-AN8 64755 Doors substantially altered. Wind-up windows instead of sidescreens....External door handles and door locks now fitted....etc. March 1964; M.G, Midget MK II G-AN3 25788 to 52411 Identical to contempory Sprite except price was 20 lbs mor in U.K. and $170 in USA. *Guide to Purchase & D.I.Y. Restoration of the MG Midget & Austine- Healey Sprite by Lindsay Porter. Bob, Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24417... MORE
First thing to do is to make sure the standard system is work at its peak efficiency. Give the system a good flush, you may need to use a flushing product though sometimes a good flush by taking all hoses off and shoving the hosepipe into any orifice you can will do the trick. An electic fan will certainly help. Gives you an hp or two more, helps the car warm up quicker and provides better cooling when in traffic. IMHO an electric fan works better as a puller not a pusher i.e. between the engine and the rad.... MORE
It took me 14 months after I bought my Bugeye, BUT, the P.O. had stripped and primed the car, had the engine, transmission, and rear end rebuilt. All I had to do was paint, find seats, (recover) and totaly assemble the car. Bob. Troutdale, OR USA "Robert Webb" 24401... MORE
I don't know about Kurust. Phosphoric acid will simply dissolve the rust - not much color except the liquid will be light green. After the phosphoric is rinsed off with clear water there will be a gray/brown film of iron phosphate left behind. That's a perfect paint base, don't sand it off. Prime it soon, preferably within hours, certainly within days. If phosphoric acid is unavailable to you, use Naval Jelly. It's phosphoric acid with a thickening agent. The pink color is just cosmetics. "Jeffrey Holmes" 24397... MORE
adam I am in Leeds 1275 Midget rebuild over last couple of years and used for hill climbing at Harewood. I can certainly help as regards how to get things wrong first time and on various mods. Welcome to come and have a look and chat. I am climbing at Harewood Bholiday Sunday if interested. "Peter Whittle" 24391... MORE
Chris It really does depend on what you're going to do and the standard of finish you want. Without knowing these things it's kinda hard to estimate a time frame. I thnk I read somewhere that for a ground up, nut and bolt rebuild you're looking at about 2,000 hours which is about 5 years worth part time. It's a balance between what you do yourself and what you farm out, but 2 1/2 years does seem a little optimistic to me. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24387... MORE
Chris, Been there, I replaced the floor pans, trunk floor inner and outer rockers, kick plates, inner and outer quarters, inner fronts etc. rebuilt the 1098, front end, brakes, steering. Took 5 years. Hope you can make your 2 1/2. Pics available Bob 60 AN5 Tampa MTGBRKR1@... 24384... MORE
Well I've gone and done it..the '60 is coming apart. Engine and trans are out in preparation of a complete refurb. At the very least this will include new inner and outer sills, maybe floors and possibly rear spring boxes. Paint will be redone and interior gone thru. I have a 1275 and ribcase waiting to be rebuilt and installed, along with Weber sidedraft etc. I am seeking suggestions on cams, porting and header. This will be a "quick" street car, neither a daily driver nor a "road racer." Any advice will be appreciated. At this point my proposed... MORE
I have a nasty crack in the windsheild of my '76 midget. One shop in town would be happy to replace the glass...for $600. The competing shop has a much more reasonable price quote, but they dont stock clear glass, and would have to put a piece with a slight green tint in. From the workshop manual, it doesnt look like a terribly difficult job, but the book doesnt give many details beyond the removal and refit of the entire frame. Is it a job I can do with my fair technical knowledge and a few extra hands? Is... MORE
I get confused between the Speedwell and Sebring labels as there is a strong similarity beyween between certain versions. I get the impression that the Speedwell is a later slightly modified version of the Sebring, but I'm not certain and donlt have the time now to research it. I;d welcome any clarificatuins from anyone who has more info. Colin's IS just like the Speedwell version, but I thiunk the only differences are in the mouth vents. Gerard Gerard "gerardchateau" 24374... MORE
Thanks Nigel, I am almost certain that the original color is Black Tulip, however there are a few strange areas that cast some doubt. The space between the dash top and windshield, (windscreen)is a silver primer color. I have never seen this before. I have seen cheap paint jobs where it was left in the previous color. And there is none of the sloppy edges around any of the trim one finds when something has been masked off. All the far recesses in the trunk and underneath the car are Black Tulip. Then, when I removed one of the... MORE
Is there a code number on any of the body id tags that designate the factory paint color? Don "Don May" 24359... MORE
Adam This really isn't an easy question to answer, which is why I suspect you haven't had many replies! I read this last night and I've been pondering it ever since! The first thing I think you need to do, is really decide what it is you wan =3D=0D t, and what your priorities are because many of your requirements seem to conflict =3D=0D with each other. To be honest, I think you need to forget about Frogeyes, they just are not =3D=0D within your budget of =A33,000, you can get Frogeyes for that money, but yo u'=3D=0D re... MORE
Kris The only information I have on this is that for the North American market only, at GAN6-166301 (Oct 1975) the bag type windscreen washer reservoir was fitted. Now I'm assuming you have a RH drive Home market car, in which case, yours would have come with the standard bottle type for 1500's. This is the best I can do. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24338... MORE
David, Which "the book" are you referring to? There are many. The Bentley (factory manual reference) does if you have a late enough versoin of it. I posted the info in an earlier message. Early cars are opposite the pinion side on LHD cars and on the same side aftter the Triupmph rack was subbed for the Morris one. I am assuming the opposite is so for RHD in both cases. Gerard "gerardchateau" 24322... MORE
George... I think you have three problems: 1.The intake manifold mounted PCV system uses the vented/filtered oil filler cap to provide for incoming air. 2. The most effective crankcase scavenging consists of a feed to the PCV valve from below the pistons. 3. The "cover" to the old mechanical fuel pump fitting on the forward left side of the block just above the flange can be used as a "source" for relieving lower crankcase vapor/pressure in place of the old takeoff on the stock timing case cover which no longer exists, in consideration of your new timing cover set-up... MORE
Simultaneous smoking exhaust and leaking can be caused by build up of crankcase pressure. The A-series doesn't have a real rear crank seal, and even a slight positive crankcase pressure will cause it to leak, maybe lots. The same for exhaust smoke. With the engine running, remove the oil fill cap and put your hand over the opening to close it off. You should feel a slight vacuum - not a lot, maybe, but enough to feel. Increase engine speed and feel that too. If you feel pressure, even slight, that's a problem. New rings and 200+ psi sounds... MORE
Don, My '72 has the same design tonneau snaps you describe. I can't comment on how standard this was, but certainly not unique to your situation. As far as stretching, I would consider finding a Black Magic brand vinyl "restorer" which will revitalize/moisterize the vinyl. Don't use ArmourAll as it actually dries it out. The Black Magic will will slippery and look shiny at first, but dried to a natural appearance once it soaks in.. I had an old convertible top that fits you description that suffered the same problem. I had success streching the vinyl, but getting it... MORE
It says in the factory manual, the packing is on the pinion side for later cars. "David Jacobs" 24289... MORE
Recently tried a fiddle with my odometer (as opposed to trip meter) as, likewise, mine stopped working. Well I think it was down to wear in the pawl which pushes the oddometer driving wheel round. I fiddled around for quite a bit and came to the conclusion that it needed the attentions (and parts stock) of a specialist so it's going to stay broken unitl I have a spare 60 - 70 pounds for a rebuild. "Jeremy Cogman" 24280... MORE
Roger I very much agree with what you're saying! I think Concours has become rediculous. Partly because judges cannot possibly know the details of every car they're judging and partly because almost every car now being entered into Concours events are now 10 times better than they were when they left the factory, yet they hang onto this judging criteria that the cars should be as they 'left the factory' ! I remember a poster on this list stating that he has a very low mileage 'original' car that has not been restored in anyway and is 'as it... MORE
