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Hi guys, Have a few photos to share of the bugeye bonnet on my 72rwa. It is a work in progress, primer gray to sections as I get an ideas of what the best look is. As you may see still have various holes to fill . . . And much smoothing to do on the bonnet. Also is a photo of the door modification where I removed the wind up windows (doors from 69 parts car) cut the inside door metal work and also used the panels out of my 69 parts car to trim it out giving... MORE
I'll leet Nigel answer this one Cap'n but .... If you are talking about the plate I think you are, then according to what I have seen, and backed up by Horler, the plate was rectangular on all cars up to the 1275, at which point it became oval. I am sure that I will now be corrected as I am probably wrong! On another subject, I took the Cap'n's advice and bought the book on engines by Vizard. A fascinating read. I will be undertaking some of those mods. My aim is to look original on the outside... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
When I did my car I cleaned back to bare metal and welded the necessary areas in turn. I primed each area as I completed it to keep rust from forming, particularly within the seams. I also used that weldable zinc primer on all lap welded seams. As the whole process was done over an extended period it ended up as a real patchwork of primers, applied at different times, under different conditions (temperature / humidity) and I wasn't very confident of how good the adhesion of the primer was as a basis for finish coats. I then grit... MORE
My take on it is this... The prop shaft as a unit, complete with the assembled UJ, does need to be in balance. I believe that they are balanced at the factory, but I don't know to what level of accuracy. I don't think that they are balanced as a unit assembled to the back axle, which is why I contend that the flange joint betwen UJ and axle pinion can be undone and re-assembled without need to mark it. If the prop shaft is balance as a seperate item then it will remain so in either of the... MORE
To the list ' Vintage Auto racing in Texas and Oklahoma for 2004" To all whom really want to have a fun weekend and get real close to vintage Sports cars and racing think about being a course worker - I have been doing this for a while thanks to David Littlefield (He drives a 74' MG Midget vintage racer) whom is on this list. It is a blast. Here is the over view on the races for 2004. The Corinthian Vintage Auto Racing group in Texas is in need of volunteer course workers for all of the events... MORE
Ok as we know, each of our cars are the similar but different, depending upon our likes and dislikes - some stock, some customized. Well here is my question: Has anyone used Brookland Screens on their car instead of the full Screen - (Outside of racers) and if so does anyone have any photos of such. I have been thinking of doing this to my Bugeye. Marty Cooper Round Rock, Texas Martin Cooper 28856... MORE
Son and the car are in Cincinnati. Body is good, little rust, no collision damage. We took the 1275 and the trany out to inspect, and all seems o.k. Things I think it would need are : Engine gasket set, clutch and slave, Motor mounts, battery and a soft top. If I where nearer I would have had it on the road. We have had it for about a year with no procross except the inspection. He was going to do the body work first and paint, I was more intrested in getting it running, for fun, then paint... MORE
Ed No I wasn't referring to the rear wing seams. The spridget shell is constructed from many parts and assemblies, many of which have been spot welded together - anywhere you look on the car you will see overlapped steel joints where one 'assembly' has been spot welded to another. It's these 'overlapped' joints where one piece of steel overlaps another piece of steel and has been spot welded that I'm referring to. Because the spot welds are done at intervals down the steel panel, this doesn't form a 'continuous weld' and leaves areas that water can get into... MORE
Hi all,l want to fit a pair of speakers in my sprite 67,was going to fit them under the seats but am now thinking of putting them in pods on the rear heel board behind the seats,yes l no they was never made like that but this is a restored car with engine mods etc and is going to be used and not for showing,what do you think please. regards wes "wesley5060" 28818... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Hey Cap'n- Followed the whole "driveshaft balance" discussion with interest. On my race cars, we balanced EVERYTHING. Being anal, there was no way I was going to re-install my driveshaft without at least checking the balance. So I had it checked. It was off by a country mile. Makes me wonder about "factory" balancing! Paul "dfwip" 28788... MORE
Hi Jim- Regret that I did not put them side to side. Peter May made up the springs for me to my specs. Car actually sits a bit lower than factory spec, which is what I wanted. But is still set up for road use. Can E-mail pics if you would like. Had a number of "discussions" with Moss parts gurus about their springs. They know the height is all wrong! They told me the car would "settle" in time and look a bit more "normal". They also offered to sell me a lowering kit, God bless them. Hope... MORE
Roger I used a company called Brown Brothers, who I believe are part of the Partco group. They're based down in Guildford, but I think they have other outlets all over the country. They're primarily an auto-factor for the Motor Trade and do a lot more than paint. The paint I used was brand named Tetrosyl, they also do ICI Autopaints, but as that works out at about 20% more expensive than Tetrosyl I used Tetrosyl ;) I also got an 'own-brand' 2.5L tub of filler from them for about 15 quid I think it was, when you consider... MORE
Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint fully harden (4-5 weeks) then use a gentle rubbing compound on it and a rotary buffer. Regarding etch primer,... MORE
Yes, I have a standard Small British Garage (SBG) and have removed two rear axles and suspension in one go. Putting back together will probably as ind ividual parts though. As far as I can remember, I placed a wheelable trolle y jack under the diff housing I put axle stands with about 9" square 1/2" ply between the stand and floor pan (to spread the load) on either side of the car, under the rear bulkhead. I remember having to move these though, b ut at which stage of the operation me memory fails me It will become... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
Guy Well I haven't used it all yet! I've still got about 3/4's of the 5 l can remaining, but I still have to do the whole of the bonnet, 1 door and a few bits and bobs. I wasn't going to do the whole thing with a 5 l can, and as I said - I could buy the 5 l can for the price of 3 x 1l cans - so went that way - I don't mind if theres plenty left over for touch ups. The other reason is because I had a slight mishap, which... MORE
You've all been sniffing too many paint fumes, you're all mad. Nigel ;) "amukdigiphoto" 28752... MORE
Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your only option for spraying at home). The other commonly used paint in the auto industry, in fact its the... MORE
Yes, Jim.... You are correct. We did in fact replace the front yoke with a Rivergate unit and no, we did not rebalance the driveshaft and no, it did not require it as we experienced no unusual vibration after 5 speed installation with the new aforementioned yoke. Then, we have Guy Weller's post on this as well which we did not have the benefit of before. All the above having been said, when there is a choice I will stay with the original line up of parts as the car came from the factory unless there is a reason... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2004 5:50 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not that familiar with the term 'lacquer' as far as I'm aware it covers pretty much all car paints, as they're all a form of lacquer. What I think you mean is Nitro-celullose Laqcuer, commonly referred to as just 'cellulose' and if you do mean this then yes, thats pretty much your only option for spraying at home. (some bright spark trying to be clever will probably come up with alternatives, but in practical terms 'cellulose' is your... MORE
Trev... Used acrylic enamel with a polyurethane hardner on my old PO'd MGB 30 years or so ago. Followed directions in a Peterson "How to Paint...." softcover manual. Came out beautifully, lasted forever. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 28765... MORE
Jim- It really was easy. After I had the rear support set up, I actually lifted the car ever so slightly with the floor jack under the diff. This took the weight off the attachment points, and away I went. Not to be a smart ass, but please don't forget the brake lines, emerg brake cable, fuel line and prop shaft. Once it is out, it is fairly easy for two people to lift it onto a set of horses for attention at a comfortable working level. I did a full restoration this way, including painting. By the way,... MORE
Hi, Duncan... I get your meaning but the flanges to the assemblies wherein the new u-joints reside are not new...nor are they particularly light-weight, but I understand where you are coming from. See my recent response to Jim C's current post to me on the subject. I myself do not know whether these assemblies are balanced when they leave the factory or to what extent. I keep hoping someone out there will know! :) I myself, would keep the flanges on both ends "lined up" in terms of how I found them, unless I could conceive of a reason... MORE
