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Lori I bought a 65 for restoration back in May, here on the civilised side of the pond (that should be good for a few replies) for the equivalent of $1000. Mine was a runner and was on the road in in March 2002, I would not have wanted to drive it though the floor was almost completely rotted out, rear spring hangers about to collapse no outer sills and inner sills rotted through. The car had been reinforced with angle iron and 1/8 plate some of which I was able to pull off with my bare hands. The... MORE
Brad There are always exceptions aren't there! Like the heap of rust with an original supercharger under the bonnet or genuine Healey front disc brake conversion or one of the 'Sprinzel' specials! That's what so fascinating about this 'hobby' you never know what you're going to find. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26903... MORE
Hi Lori Welcome to the list, although I suspect you won't be on it for long if you successfully sell your Sprite! Firstly, it's very difficult to be able to put a price on a car, specially one of these cars without having seen it first. The three factors that determine value for these cars are firstly bodywork condition, ie how much rust does it have? As this is one of the most expensive areas to put right. So, how much rust it has and the areas that the rust is in is a big factor. The second is... MORE
I agree also on this point, I've seen some really poor bonnet gaps on frogeyes, even on restored cars! I guess this is an area on those cars difficult to get right, not that I'd know from experience never having owned one... maybe after I've finished the one I'm working on! Why especially me? Why single me out? I thought this list was here for like-minded individuals to share experiences of working on these cars so that we may all benefit. I'd be the first one to admit, that I'm a novice at car restoration, but I've tried to... MORE
I think concours is an absolute and total waste of a car. The cars were made to be driven when they rolled out of the factory, and those that still exist still have the soul of a driver (screw that VW ad "drivers wanted") in them. In my opinion, anyone that does concours is as much a criminal as the person that leaves one to rust to death with no intention of ever doing anything with it. Either way, it will never be driven again. I am still buying parts for my frog, so I don't count!! The concours... MORE
David.... I'll tell you......maybe you should leave it as is and just fix the oil leak(s). For what you've got is an excellent (though unintended) anti-corrosion/rust coat, if you seriously think about it. It's also a sound deadener as well. One of the best "coats" one can use to "insulate" the body is....tar. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26896... MORE
Cap'n Yuppers - exactamundo my friend. Why paint one engine one colour, another engine another colour and yet another engine another colour etc etc why not just slap the same colour on all of them and have done with it. What the hell difference does it make what colour the engine is painted in anyway? If it saved money, that's the way we'll do it - and thats exactly how they operated. It was expedient. Sadly, David wants to know the 'real reason' why the engines were painted a different colour to the ones that went before and the... MORE
You know.... I remember seeing films on the History and Speedvision Channel of original Frogeyes being unloaded from ships in NYC during their heyday when Inskip was the big importer here in the Northeast US. The factory "gaps" were nothing to be proud of, believe me!! Were it not for the new paint, you would have difficulty believing these were new cars basically right off the factory production line. This was especially the case with the bonnet gaps. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26880... MORE
I don't really accept the "They simply used whatever engine paint was to hand " argument as there must have been WAY more dark green or red paint splashing around at the time. Regards David "David Jacobs" 26873... MORE
David There are lots of things that happened at that time that don't make any sense. The fact that they used up old parts stocks on newer models didn't make any sense (well it did to them financially) but not to the newer model of car. They simply used whatever engine paint was to hand and thats what the engine and ancillary components were painted in. My carburettor heatshield for example is also painted in that metallic green paint - that doesn't make any sense either. It's just the way it was, and will probably be the only explanation... MORE
Steve I have to partly agree with Ed here (Arghh). Whilst I'm not familiar with POR, I've been lead to beleive that its almost identical to what we have over here called 'Hammerite'. I've not had great experiences with Hammerite, but that may well be because I've thinned and sprayed with it, rather than brush painting it on. What I've found is a) it takes ages to dry. It goes touch dry fairly quickly, but doesnt fully dry for ages. I've painted components with it, let them air dry for a couple of days, stacked them in a box,... MORE
Ed I didn't get it wrong at all, I don't know why you're getting so excited. It may well be 'officially' called Austin-Healey light green, but the reason it's also known as MGC metallic green, is because at the factory when they painted the MGC engines they used this colour, and it also seemed logical that they also paint the Midget engines with it as well, note the way round that is. Ed, please note here that we're talking MG as in MG Midget and MGC, nothing at all to do with Austin Healey, hence the colour being known... MORE
If anyone would like to toss me a bone on one, some or all of these questions I'd appreciate it very much. If I can figure out how to post pictures in the Photos section I'll put up some 'before' and 'after' of the engine bay. I didn't have a camera available to take any 'before' pictures of the motor but I'll try posting some of the 'POR-15' painted 'after' pictures. BTW, if anyone is getting ready to paint their engine Black and would like to give POR-15 a try let me know. The Engine Painting kit provides enough... MORE
Max I use Moss. Not the greatest supplier around in terms of service, but they =3D=0D do tend to stock a very wide range of spares and accessories, many from stock. =3D=0D http://www.moss-europe.co.uk They have branches in London, Manchester, Derby, Darlington, Bristol and Bradford. Their part number for the Lucas sealed beam unit is GLU101 and costs =A37.4 5 =3D=0D each. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26842... MORE
OK, so, let's have a wash-up session here. I have 2x FT6's that are screwed. I have a '64 Sprite with Dynamo/Generator. No point getting halogens, so where to I get standard replacement glass? (UK) I only use the car in summer really so light brighteness isnt top prioirty. Max "Max" 26838... MORE
Eeg I'm sorry to have to tell you this, but you've done it the wrong way round. It's not always easy to know which bits come first, but any major structural bodywork on one of these cars has to happen around the door gaps and door frame. The correct sequence is to first repair the door frame then refit a new skin. Now you have a correct door to use as a template for getting the door gaps correct. Once you have the door gaps correct, you repair the inner A post, and inner sill. Now you have a... MORE
no, no relays were fitted as standard. As regards halogen bulbs, I doubt if you could find them with as low a wattage as standard sealed beams - aren't they about 40W? David "David Jacobs" 26824... MORE
Also, the use of a "relay" will take the heavier load of halogens off the switch itself. Relay is a good idea , I thought they were fitted as standard. Specially for high beam. I also thought by using Halogen gas (or Quartz iodine ) you got a brighter light for the same amount of electrical power needed for the old bulbs . I stand to be corrected of course. - Having just replaced ONLY the bulbs in my daily car with 'bluer brighter bulbs' with no ill effects , except a lighter wallet. Just that I can see... MORE
Agreed!!! The Halogens are definitely the way to go if replacement of stock OEM type headlights is required, assuming you have an alternator instead of a generator? Also, the use of a "relay" will take the heavier load of halogens off the switch itself. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26816... MORE
Tom I suspected that sentimentality would be an issue, it so often is with these little cars due to their 'personality'. Then in my mind, you have two options. Get the bodywork rebuilt by a specialist, or go for the Heritage Shell route, or three if you include the chance finding of a good straight rustfree bodyshell. Getting the body rebuilt by a specialist will probably cost as much as if not more than a Heritage Bodyshell. "amukdigiphoto" 26799... MORE
Tom... As I understand it, about 5k for the whole shebang but you already have good doors and other useful parts. So the only correct way of doing this is to email or phone for exactly what YOU need as I believe the tub may come in different stages of completion. (If there are any listers who know more about this, please feel free to chime in) As you know, you can never stop rust, though you can slow it down. One way or the other, you are going to be spending a lot of bucks (and/or time) on... MORE
Thanks Bob, I found the British Heritage site, but no prices. Just how expensive are we talking here? - Tom "foragoodtom" 26789... MORE
Thanks Nigel, Yes, sentimentality does enter into it. My father gave me this Sprite as a high school graduation present some 23 years ago. He actually gave it to me in pieces, and we rebuilt it together, which brought us closer, considering I was living with my mother after their divorce. So it's not just a car, it's a family heirloom! In the last three years I have installed performance suspension front and rear, uprated brakes, Weber, and LCB exhaust header. Now the drivetrain is out to rebuild the engine and install the Datsun 5- speed. Looking more closely... MORE
Tom There's probably as much work in transferring everything over into another shell as there is in repairing your old shell, although that does depend on how bad it is. You need to think this one through and decide in your mind exactly what it is that you want. I know this probably isn't in the forefront of your mind and it does depend on lots of things (sentimentality being the most obvious) but you may want to consider selling your existing car and simply going out and buying one in the sort of condition that you want. Beleive... MORE
Actually I have been eading the list for q while now and have gotten a lot of usefull information from it. I have also tried searching this group, the spitfire groups and a few other message boards. I have tried all of the search variations I can think of and still have come up with only vague descriptions. I even e-mailed the fellow that added a second thrust bearing but the address was no longer valid. Unfortunatly unless I can come up with enough details to satisfy my curiosity I will probably leave it stock. Thanks anyway "vince_gulley" 26760... MORE
