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Dear Listers, Based on traffic lately I don't know who's out there but here goes anyway: My brake light switch has passed on. Ordered a new one from Vicky B and have run into a problem. The manuals I have (Haynes and Official Shop) want one to unscrew the pedal box surround to get the clearance necessary to screw in the new switch without interference. Sounds OK but on inspection it appears my surround is welded down. Short of breaking the welds I don't see any way to screw in the new switch without hammerassing (sp?) it in and... MORE
Actually, this question might best be posed on the TR list, or email me off list and I will forward to the TR list. Some of the Spitfire guys have probably done one. Robert B. Houston Texan in NM 73 Midget and others John Bernard Books (The Shootist): "I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I expect the same from them." rbhouston@... 38001... MORE
Jim...what Colin said. :) Do NOT use a low-friction oil in your (older) rebuilt motor or the rings will more than likely NOT "seat" as the bores will more than likely "glaze" and you'll have a "re-do" on your hands. Use a normal 10W-40wt mineral based "SF" oil for break-in. Change out filter and oil within 100 miles (to remove initial metal contamination) and again at 400 more miles for the same reason. After initial 500 mile break-in (don't forget to re-torque the head and re-adjust the valves accordingly...then the carbs.) The "new" factory motors are a different story... MORE
G'day Jim Joe's correct when he says :"A good many new cars come with Mobil 1 as the original factory fill" However, these cars were/are designed for light weight synthetic oils. For example, often you will find overhead camshafts running directly in aluminium cylinder heads, with no intervening bearing material. Your car was designed with larger tolerances, and required a heavier grade oil. Rebuilding it doesn't change that. We use a standard mineral based oil (Penrite HPR30 which is 20W60 weight) in both road and race engines, and never have a problem with it. About 12 months ago we... MORE
Dear Jody, Welcome to this plane of reality. I have a 75 rubber bumper and got rid of them due to cosmetics (they probably looked like yours) and to improve the car. If you remove the bumper in front you will have two large rectangular holes in the lower part of the front of each wing. You will also have two frame members that protrude through the grill opening flush with the front body work. My car will look exactly like a pre-rubber model when done. I cut off the frame memebers as closely as possible and welded in... MORE
Steve, I would try moulding the replacement piece from something like "knead it putty", sets very strong. But as your problem is going to be the strength of the join between the original piece and the putty, I would cut out some small support strips or pieces and attach them with small screws across the original body of the switch and putty. That way its the metal thats bearing the force of levering the switch and not the joining face between the plastic and putty which I don't think will ever be very strong. Cheers, Eriks "Eriks Skinkis" 37934... MORE
I need to fix my dangling wiper stalk. The plastic block that it sets into has cracked more or less in half. The broken piece is gone. I can set the stalk in place "just for show" but can't use it. So then, short of replacing the whole thing (which would be a bit of overkill as the thing would work fine if I can just get it to stay in place) I figure I will need an adhesive that can: - be thick enough to mold into a shape. - be strong enough to tolerate the stress involved... MORE
Some may remember my telling of my purchase on Ebay of an Haynes MGB manual, and a Haynes Weber manual (includes SU and Stromberg) at a good price. Well, the seller, Bookmarz, has apparently just given them to me free. I tracked them when they didn't show up in 10 days, and got a form letter email back telling me how to trace the shipment on their web page. I waited a couple of days and tried again, and when no info showed on the tracking site, I emailed a complaint. They sent the same form letter again and... MORE
Mike, My 75 had the manual choke but I would recommend using a stock set up first and then make improvements. Manual conversion kits are readily available from Vicky B anyway. You SHALL NOT remove the gearbox unless thou has first shifted the motor to a special place........... outside the car. If you're sticking with the Stromberg definitely buy the tool. Rob C-FINALLY enjoying his Midget Webfoot Leisure.com Your Local Pool Store-On the Web rob@... 866-530-9801 toll free " robbiesg@... " 37913... MORE
Jim, CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! You are the first person I know who actually used a Dremel tool for something! Almost everyone has one, myself included, but it just doesn't seem to do anything that I need done! Now about the Sub-sandwich...if you whistle and call it, does it try and come to you? If so, I would pass on it. We missed you at the beer fest but the story you told was worthy of the group. Cheers, Bob in San Diego "Robert D. Gardner" 37905... MORE
Hi, Jed! I live in a nice neighborhood, and my `79 Midget is garaged. However, I sometimes park in less than desirable areas and I have had issues with young jerks throwing beer cans, McDonald's waste, etc. into the cockpit of my car if not covered with a tonneau - in broad daylight in mall parking lots, etc.!! Also had a radio stolen once (before the car was garaged). The idiots tore open the top with a knife to crawl into the cockpit and ripped out the entire console. Radio was a Blaupunt with a "code," so it was... MORE
It is because the original 4 cyl versions were really just VW's put togethe r at the Porsche factory, at least according to the book. Brad "" 37895... MORE
G'day guys Here's a little story that deserves to be told. Way back last August, I bought a used Datsun 5-speed box in the US, and had it shipped to Paul Asgeirsson at Morriservice to be rebuilt. A mate of mine was coming home from the US, and between the two of us we arranged Paul to supply two 5-speed conversion kits, my gearbox and another one for my mate. Well eventually they arrived, and in March my 5-speed Datto box and a kit went to another mate (Steve) 600 miles away, down in Melbourne. Steve fitted it to... MORE
Hello all, I have a running MG Midget convertible, in excellent condition, that I love to death but am really needing to sell. I bought this car on Ebay last year, but have never driven it openly (by which I mean on public roads), had it insured, or had the title put in my name (I suffer from lack of funds). My brother has driven it, and says it handles quite well... the only defects we know of are: a minor hole in the exhaust pipe, a broken parking brake, and a leak in the braking system near the... MORE
Clean off all the corrosion with a scotch brite pad or stiff brush, wash with detergent,rinse, dip in a solution of 1 part in 10 household vinegar for 10-15 seconds, rinse, dry, and prime with any bare metal primer. The Krylon stuff from Wal-Mart is fine, then top coat with color. "joe blxfstz" 37863... MORE
Hi all I have a dizzy with an electronic module built in (on the side), probably from a 1275 metro or mini engine. Has anyone fitted one of these to a frogeye - if so, how do I wire it in? There are three electrical spade connections within a plastic housing - but no identification on them as to what should be connected to them. Any help appreciated Chris South Wales '58 frogeye "closrheidol" 37831... MORE
You building a "Town/Country" or "Highway" driver, Bruce? ALL ELSE BEING EQUAL..... "60"overbore will pull up low end torque (increases compression ratio) whilst increasing "revability" (more "square" bore/stroke numbers) As can be seen, the foregoing improvement lends itself automatically to a "hairier" cam quite nicely (without compromising the low end). The question is "how hairy" for your specific application? Thus, the initi al question at the top of the page, Bruce. Vizard's book contains an excellent description of many "grinds". For town/country, the numbers associated with an MD266 give a nice general improvement all-around with slight emphasis on mid-rang... MORE
A caveat or two, Bradman.... A trailor queen is not necessarily a "check book" car, though the vast majority of those I know of in my area, are. I also know of "check book" cars that are driven almost daily (except in winter months) weather permitting. Cap'n Bob Basic Frog "Robert E. Shlafer" 37800... MORE
Jim, I would be thrilled if I owned a BE that would be good enough to qualify as a "Trailer Queen". Or could it be a "Trailer King"? Bob Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a... MORE
Is it possible to convert from a rubber bumper to metal. Or at least take off the rubber bumper and do small overriders. I have never seen a rubber bumper midget with the bumper off so I am not sure the body is even complete under there. Mark "markpicu" 37792... MORE
I need to replace the exhaust manifold on my 74 Midget and although I see several come up on ebay they are different from the two types listed in the manuals for the midget. They all seem to face forward with a clamp type fixing while all the catalogues and pics I have seen show either a rear facing clamp or forward facing bolt fixing. Is there another type or are they from a different car? "Bruce" 37776... MORE
A trailer queen is a car that has been restored by a "cheque book mechanic" i.e. the owner never touches it, not even to check the oil. Someone else k eeps the car fluids monitored, keeps the paint looking bright, and has new tires put on it when the old ones dry rot from not being used. This is also the car that looks great, sells at auctions for $25,000 U.S., and is NEVER driven. It would drop the value!! Thus, it is trailered to every show it i s shown at, thus, "trailer queen" Brad who owns a... MORE
Brad, Me-thinks you are a little harsh on the owner of a "Trailer Queen". It actually could be some one like me ( it isn't, but it could be), who scrimps every dime to make his car as perfect as humanly possible, over many years, skinned knuckles, pissed off wife, depleted check book and someone who values perfection. He trailers his car, and never drives it for fear of a stone ding, or dust on the under side of the correct SU fuel pump. He perhaps wins shows and honors due to his years of hard work and care... MORE
Hi all, just bought a complete but knackered 1275 74 model and am starting to look at what I am going to do with it mechanically (apart from the necessary reshell) I bought book on A series tuning as I have only rebuilt MGB engines before and have decided that althogh I want to keep the car as original as possible the air filters and exhaust manifold were non standard so these will be replaced with K&N's plus a complete stainless exhaust and manifold. These parts seem to be the only non original parts on the whole car. Is... MORE
I'm selling my AH Sprite MKII and all the bits I've built up over the 45 years of ownership. Spare 948cc spare smooth case gearbox etc. Spare Diff (long ratio) etc. The car is in Chester UK and fully taxed & MOT'd rallied two weeks ago and came 3rd in class on the HRCR Leukaemia rally. All metal, no rust, sensible money. Pictures available. "gerald_r_simpson" 37765... MORE
