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Hi all, just ordered the rubber hose kit and 13 row cooler! Problem is Moss are waiting for a delevery of them to arrive! No problem i bought a SU carb tuning book aswell!! :) Cheers all Ben Ben Lawlor 31589... MORE
SU book...good reading, man! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31590... MORE
A common mod is to replace the locally operated valve (ie one with the hand wheel attached on top) with a remotely operated one which are much more commonly available. The advantage of this is that you can then buy a control cable (either a heater control from say an early mini or a choke control for a Spridget - I've used a rotary control from a B in my car) mount it in a suitable place in the car and you then can control the heat without having to get out and lift the bonnet (hood). Geri. "G... MORE
Hi These heater taps are no longer in production, I had the same trouble with mine. I bought a nice looking second hand one complete with the mounting bracket and the little metal pipe that goes on the other side, but that too leaked...even worse than the original!! In the end I used my existing metal pipe and the metal pipe from the new (second hand)one to essentially bypass the tap altogether. The heater is now permanatly on and I control the airflow by pulling out the heater control on the dash and by opening/shutting the footwell flaps. This... MORE
From: G & J Swann-Pric [mailto: swann-price@... ] Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 1:20 PM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [midgetsprite] Re: Heater valve A common mod is to replace the locally operated valve (ie one with the hand wheel attached on top) with a remotely operated one which are much more commonly available. The advantage of this is that you can then buy a control cable (either a heater control from say an early mini or a choke control for a Spridget - I've used a rotary control from a B in my car) mount it in a suitable... MORE
Nigel I posted the original question and I seem to have confused a few of the guys who were kind enough to take the time to try to help me out. The floor is rotted away from the outside in, I will be replacing both inner and outer sills however the left and right hand floor panels would not (even if welded together) create a new one piece floor, they are not wide enough. The panels are designed to be welded to the centre section of the floor which is under the centre tunnel and never goes rusty. In... MORE
Ben... I always had a hard time fitting the conv. top "cover" over my folded down top as well. Very "strained", tight fit. I finally just used the tonneau cover, putting a soft terry cloth towel between the tonneau fabric and the top to avoid any chance of the tonneau fabric from scratching the plastic window(s) should they come into contact....and the hell with the "cover"!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31498... MORE
G'day Ben I have a mate who melted his engine bearings three times in three successive race meetings, before he discovered the problem. The first melt-down was due to oil surge on corners, and he thought he had fixed that by putting a baffle in the sump. Two more melt-downs later, he discovered the oil cooler was clogged with the metal powder from the melted bearings. Don't ever use a second hand oil cooler. And don't forget you will need to buy the oil hose adaptor to the block, and the adaptor to the oil filter. avagoodday Colin "Colin@SpriteParts"... MORE
I heartily concur. I bought some of those years back. they are worth their weight in gold etc etc etc. I wouldn't even attempt to do any serious work on the braking system without them. A VERY good investment. You won't even need to think about heat if you use the correct tools. R "Roger Stinson" 31441... MORE
Well... Usually, a used oil cooler is not a good idea. Why, you may ask? Problem is you don't know the oil cooler's history...and those channels within are pretty small. If the engine the cooler came from was "making metal"....well....you get the point. Sure...you COULD clean the hell out of it, but...is it really "cleaned out" in the aforementioned case? Is it worth saving a couple of bucks to take the chance?? Your motor...your money... your decision!! :):) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31453... MORE
Good point on this, Beckers....absolutely. "Overadvance" or too much timing will normally cause a "stumble" initially, "off-idle" HOWEVER....with a cam profile such as the VP3 (or Kent 286), it can be just the other way 'round wherein more initial advance (recurving) just may be the ticket due to poor scavenging along with relatively poor cylinder filling "off-idle"....and larger inlet valves along with higher lift rockers exacerbate the problem, IF indeed this is the problem in this particular case. We shall trouble shoot and find the problem!!!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31421... MORE
Hi I am in the process of restoring a 1965 MK III Sprite and have bought two new floor panels (I don't think the one piece panel is available any more) I have started cutting back the passenger side floor and have struck sound metal a few inches in from the inner sill and plan to cut my new panel down and weld it to the sound original metal. I have read that the correct way to do this is to overlap the old and new metal and weld a seam top and bottom, the only problem is at... MORE
James... You may have the airflow balanced but you haven't got the mixture balanced. The twin carb. set-ups are "interdependant". You can actually go full lean on adjusment on one, and very rich on the other and the engine will run on all four cylinders but the plugs will "show"....... exactly as your engine does! Go back to "square one" and use the Colortune (excellent tuning tool) CORRECTLY. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31378... MORE
Yep... You may have to do a little "fettling" to get fibreglass parts to correctly fit Ben. This is par for the course and should be pretty minimal if you buy from a quality supplier like Speedwell or Winner's Circle, both of whom have been doing these for years. Perfect Plastics is another long time supplier as well, though not sure what parts the presently stock. I myself am going over to a fibreglass bonnet for my Frog. Should about equalize weight distribution and considering limited torque/HP, every little bit of weight reduction counts. And of course in the... MORE
Well, I didn't get the Riley grill. The seller sent me the email below, a nd I responded by offering him the =C2=A325 off ebay. He responded that he no w wanted =C2=A330, so I backed away. He's pulled it from the auction now (wh ere I was high bidder) so I guess he got a better offer. I'd feel better about it if he's kissed me. Hi Robert, About 9 =E2=80=93 10 pounds weight including packing materials. I should s ay however, that I have received quite a reasonable offer for the Grille off e bay from a... MORE
David, You are probably correct if the shackle is in a vertical position, but I think if the spring eye is at all in front of the shackle mounting, then as the car settles the spring eye will be forced forward and upwards at this point. I do remember when I put new springs on mine this is exactly what happenned. The solution was to lift the weight off the spring and use a pry bar through the shackle link to flip it over to the rear. I think the cause of this is poorly manufactured aftermarket springs that... MORE
Is it possible for UK sellers to ship via FEDX, UPS, etc. rather than using the Royal Post? I've often wondered this, as I shipped something via UPS to the UK for half what it cost to ship a similar item to the USA. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye 'Kermit' '61 AH Sprite 'Ole Gray' in the "Healey Book" '71 Midget 'Freebie" http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 31327... MORE
Just got a new convertible top for the 73 B. It went on MUCH easier than on the Midget, though I am not sure how to tuck the edges around the header rail. There is a little flap that folded out from under the top, and a multi-ply flap that is on the same section as the "window fly". I'm not quite sure how all that gets tucked in, and the old top was too rotted to tell for sure. Can someone take a picture of the edge of the header rail, where that little plastic block with the... MORE
Nah. This is interesting, James... Lead was used as an additive to permit higher compression ratios than were prevalent back in the early part of the last century (omigod......I AM old!!:) It "delayed" the beginning of the combustion process, allowing gasoline to begin to ignite at a higher temperature (allowed for "anti-dieseling" or "run on" as it is more popularly known these days). Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31300... MORE
hi all, My car has been off the road for awhile, just waiting to get insurance now! i always used to run it on LRP as it was not converted. Recently i have heard things about LRp being awful as quality is low. and that most of the additives are crap including valvemaster that i have used in the past. and one place said that converting is not a good idea as you are adding in a metal with diffrent properties (plus i haven't got the money for that) I keep hearing that LRP is gonna be gone from... MORE
Just to shed some of my personal experience in this area. I had to tackle this area personally in the last week or so. If you follow some of the parts supplier's diagrams you might end up installing this little pesky item backwards. Best advice is, as always, follow your original repair manual. In my case, it's a Sprite Mark I with a 948 engine. If you stop to think for a moment, and ask yourself, what is the logical purpose for this (oil thrower) item? You will soon come to a quick conclusion that its purpose is to... MORE
Strange one this , I suspect it 's not too important. MG book shows concave towards the outside of the engine i.e. Front of car. The Maestro A series 1300 engine shows a slight centre dish concave towards the gear, but the outer rim edge of the thrower is like a normal washer, flat. My Haynes Mini book - (all A series engines) shows the same type of thrower but with an 'F' marked on one side. The 'F' is fitted towards the outside or normally Front of car. i.e. centre concave goes next to the gear. Lindsay Porters... MORE
Hi, Ken... 1275's ran with no exhaust valve seals for better cooling (residual oiling) of the stems. Guess they figured the combustion gasses would be "outbound" in any case instead of "sucking" as in the case of the inlet valve. It would make sense to me to install the oil thrower concave side "in", convex side "out" but I haven't got the manual at hand and haven't built an engine in 20 years so I'll leave this one to another more "current" than I in this respect! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 31272... MORE
The gasket set for my 1275 Midget engine came with 4 rubber "boots" which are oil seals for the inlet valve stems. The set also included 5 (!) of the small o-rings which I thought were for teh earlier 1098 motors where they were used on inlet and exhaust. Shouldm I be installing 4 of these o-rings on my exhaust valves in addition to the 4 boots on the inlet guides? The manual is ambiguous. Also, the manual says to install the oil thrower in the timing chest concave side out - then shows a picture of it installed... MORE
I don't want anyone to out their age, but I have a question to ask. I was out cruising the flea market today, and one of the vendors brought out an interesting lighter. Yeah, I know I don't smoke, but it was pointed out to me that most of my collectibles have something to do with FIRE!! "uh, settle down, Beavis" Anyway, I have this strange lighter, still in the box. It is called "The AirTeam windproof lighter. No flint, no wick, no moving parts. It was awarded the gold medal at the Luxembourg International Fair in 1952. In... MORE
