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funny amount of positive camber. I did this at an event one time many many years ago. I had help from a friend who should have also known better. We both were on the receiving end of lots of jibes and laughs from all the other club members who witnessed our folly!!! You can check: http://www.ahsdc.org/goblins/tech/frontend.htm for some diagnostics courtesy of the late Bob Gill and Gillspeed. If you don't find anything seriously wrong, then it is time to inspect the engine bay for signs of a smack on the front left side. (substitute front right side in case... MORE
My book says you are looking at a 3.9 with a 1500. Watch ebay and pick one up for $90-$100. Bob, Portland, OR "Robert Webb" 26412... MORE
yes. Different crank and rods (inferior metal, but larger big-ends). Front mounting plate is different (and a mod to the oil pan too I believe) Oil filter is spin-on on the side of the block pointing upwards somewhat. low comp pistons I think. Single row timing chain maybe (OK, I am struggling to recall after the 1st three items) The A+ out of the Ital has a ribbed block, so that is good... Mike "Mike Gigante" 26375... MORE
I just acquired some sheet Lexan and would like to use it to replace the old plastic window panes on my MK 2 Sprite. Does anyone have any recommendations for the type of adhesive to use (or to not use) to attach the handles onto the sliding sections? I'm currently thinking about using super glue but will do a test first unless I am informed that this is a no-no. Nelson "witstock7" 26379... MORE
Yes, Martyn...agreed. Assuming the cam is properly timed in in accordance with previous post, I would at this point expect an induction leak(s) of some kind. VP3 cam or not, the engine should be capable of reduced idle to the point the engine will quit, though in reality 1,000rpm is a more realistic setting with this cam and even then, it'll be pretty lopey, even in a 1275. Not a displeasing sound though, IMHO!! :) Spraying carb cleaner (be careful) in and around the induction system should tell the tale in this respect...the idle will immediately change if and... MORE
I know this is basic but maybe it will save someone else a lot of frustration. The previous owner of my car had installed a Pertronix distributor conversion on my 1963 1098cc Sprite. No other modifications; no new wires, coil or plugs. Since I drive this car to work every day, I decided to replace all of the basic electrical components; relay, fuse box, spark plug wires etc. I also decided to replace the Pertronix unit with a new one AND their coil. Having accomplished all of that, the car ran hot, stumbled until it got warmed up and... MORE
Well... Sounds to me like you've got ignition timing mixed up with cam timing. The cam timing can be "staight up" or for a little heftier lower range at minimal expense to the top end, timed in no more than 4 degrees "advanced" per Vizard's recommendation. Assuming you are using a new timing chain, after initial chain "stretch" the cam will end up running 2 degrees advanced...perfect! For your application considering a small bore engine, and "long stroke" at that, I'd go "straight up" for the track, 4 degrees advanced for the road, most especially if you're planning to... MORE
Terry I depend's on how much you want an 'original' workshop manual. The price does seem high to me. You can pick up a 'haynes' workshop manual for the MGB on ebay.co.uk for around a fiver. You pays ya money, ya takes ya choice. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 26313... MORE
Hi I have been offered an original Layland workshop manual covering up to 1973 for my MGB for =A325. Do I buy it or are they only wortj a fiver? Terry "terry.isherwood" 26310... MORE
Terry... Original manufacturer's workshop manuals do not grow on trees. Here in the States they ran about US60+ when sold new from a dealer way back when they were available in the car's later years. Bentley manuals are usually pretty much of a reprint of the factory maintenance manuals and can be had more cheaply, though at about US50 when new I believe. So it seems to me, the price of L25 is a good deal. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26321... MORE
I have not seen the manual but what happens when the main hydraulic system fails is the leveling suspension system and the brake system are on the same hydraulic line from the main reservoir. When the car is moving it is in the up leveling position so the pressure from the weight of the car lowering after main hydraulic system failure provides enough hydraulic pressure for the braking system to come to a safe immediate stop. Immediate being the key word. Once the car lowers nothing but the emergency brake works. Don "Don May" 26305... MORE
Rick writes, in part, "Does the owner's manual contain suggestions...." LMAO! In the SAAB 340 I flew the "red" hydraulic light (steering, landing gear and flaps) came on when you had lost all your "main" hydraulic fluid. The emergency action item for this event was "Hydraulic Pump Switch to OFF (from AUTO) which was hilarious as at 3,000psi, you could never in a million years get to the switch in time....a completely useless red light if there ever was one!! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26295... MORE
After suffering the indignity of being pelted by acorns by red squirrels and freak summer rains I bought a "porta garage" now on sale at Harbor Freight for a hundred off. now $149.00. It is a white metal frame affair covered on all sides with silver tarp material and a zip entrance on one end. 8'10" wide by 16' 9" long . . . just right for a Spridget and a few feet around it. Now I have head protection and a dry place to work when it rains. I forgot to say the height . . . it... MORE
Hi Bree.... Sounds like a problem with the automatic choke part of the system, Bree (aka "cold run" circuit). Electronics are involved and so "correct adjustment" (or part(s) replacement) is more or less a "specialist" or dealer affair. Of course, there could be a part within which is giving such symptoms and the "cold run" system just "looks the culprit". Not as simple to diagnose as a carb with manual choke...not at all. Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 26271... MORE
"...the job is in the prep...." Correctomundo, Mssr. Holmes... Any imperfections in this respect will "show through" the best of paints in short order, once the paint "flows" and "settles". I picked up a Peterson book on painting and followed the directions using pro equipment in a buddy's "spray booth". This was acrylic enamel with poly hardner. First try...excellent job. But, the prep took the better part of 3 months working evenings and a good part of weekends. It came out beautifully and lasted for many, many years in daily driving...ice, snow, salt...the works. I have also had excellent... MORE
Bob Which is precisely the reason I'm painting my car myself. I think you've knocked the nail on the head, you CAN GET superb results using professional sprayers, but at a cost, and that cost is significant as you have pointed out. Long gone are the days you could get a decent respray for under 1k USD. This is partly because many of the 'pro's' will not guarantee a respray unless they do the prep and primer work, and of course as we all know, that part of the respray takes a considerable amount of time. The pro's over... MORE
And that would be the guy that wants 4-5,000 to paint a Bugeye that has been striped down to bare metal twice, takes the doors and the bonnet off, so he can paint it better, then when he reinstalls them, chips the paint. I am begining to think that I expect it to be "Perfect" and then I wax it and find all the flaws. I think clearcoat can be touched up and I have both a big and small sprayer, so may try the next coat myself in the carport. It can't be any worse than the professionals... MORE
G'day Alan et al Can't help with the combustion chamber volume. The kerosine keeps running out those large holes where valves should be! The combustion volume depends on (amongst other things) how "proud" the valves sit off the seats. And since the head has no valves, and I have no new valves to try in it, and since I don't feel like buying two new valves - I can't answer your question! But I do know I have machined over .100" off head faces before exposing the oil feed line. With the higher comp pistons available, it's unlikely you... MORE
Colin, Alan, etal, The combustion chamber on the 295 head should be 28.3cc according to the 'factory' specs. I tried cc'ing my 12G295 head and got 28 + cc's. The syringe I used was only gradulated in cc's so what the + factor was I'm not sure. It took more than 28 cc's and less than 29cc's. That measurement plus the deck height measurement you provided told me the one I have hasn't been shaved/machined/milled. Biff Jones '59 Bugeye, 'Kermit' '62 Sprite, 'Ole Gray' '71 Midget, 'Freebie' http://sprites2.homestead.com/ "Biff" 26222... MORE
Colin at sprite parts wrote I happen to have a brand new 12G295 head, still in the BMC wax paper. So I measured it for you. It is exactly 2.754" thick. So, That means it's just inside the drawing tolerance of 2.75" +/- 0.005" However,Colin The depth dimension of the combustion chamber - could you give us a dimension of this please. ,( which is more critical to find out out if the engine face has been machined) In fact any dimensions for a brand new head would be useful. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I include part of an email I sent... MORE
Rob That reminds me of the old irish joke (apologies to those Irish folks on the list) which goes something like this - Paddy's walking along the road and happens upon Mick coming towards him on the other side, Paddy waves to Mick and says 'Top o the morning to ya Sir, could ya be telling me the best way to be getting ta Limerick' Mick rubs his chin for a moment and replies 'Well Sir, if I were you, I wouldn't be startin from here' The moral being, if you want to enter and win Concours events, you... MORE
A couple of weeks ago I mentioned that I had started a webpage that contains scanned-in out-of-print BMC, Lucas, and other manuals. Since then several folks have taken it upon themselves to email me scanned pages of booklets they own (including a couple of early Spridget special tuning manuals), and I have assembled them into .pdfs and added them to the page. Take a look... http://www.1978mgmidget.com/manuals_and_booklets.html Steve 78 Midget "Steven Michelsen" 26183... MORE
Good news, my baby is sitting on the drive looking rather nice. I was goin g to replace the outer sills my self until I was quoted =A3100 a side, incl uding painting by a local garage. Since I am at work full time I said do i t. That was at the begining of the year. It was done as a fill in when th e guy was not busy, or on holiday. Then it grew to repairs to the inner si lls, footwell side panels, a new wing, repairs to the A posts and rear wing s,... MORE
Rob Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. I think you are suffering a little from the 'grass is always greener' syndrome though : ) If it's any consolation, I think you did the right thing as well ! I can't tell you how many times I've muttered under my breath the well known phrase 'never again' never again' it's almost like a mantra to me now. Of course it's nice to be able to fully strip the car, rebuild/repaint and reassemble it, that has to be the ideal, but let me tell you it is by far... MORE
Also the aluminum frames can be polished while you have everything off. They are aniodized and can also be re-aniodized after polishing to minimize future scratches. A company specializing in plastic can also make the windows. Bob, Troutdale, OR "Robert Webb" 26164... MORE
