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OUR NIGE SAID (Long time since I used that expression, remember OUR NIGE & RED FIVE) "Original Midget & Sprite by Terry Horler Published by Bay View Books ISBN 1-870979-45-1 Doesn't cover any form of restoration, but is invaluable as a reference boo k, charting production changes and historical information. (Does come up on ebay but is horrifically expensive!)" ************************************************* SO I'm looking into buying a copy and the prices at Amazon are currently. AMAZON U.K. Search for Horler: then listed under the description, Original Sprite and Midget, The complete guide to AH and MG etc etc =A324.99 NEW,... MORE
From: Alan [mailto: alan.east-jones@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 9:54 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: T. Horlers book on AH and midget "Duncan Sinclair" 29076... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 9:01 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: T. Horlers book on AH and midget Duncan I've been to Houston! I think I'd rather put up with the high prices over here to be honest lol ;) Nigel "Duncan Sinclair" 29071... MORE
Having a relation who works for Barnes and Noble helps also LOL I got it for $12 and well worth every cent Duncan _____ From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 7:44 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: T. Horlers book on AH and midget Alan I really do hate to upset people, and seeing grown men cry isn't a pretty =3D sight, but I'm afraid on this occasion it has to be done, sorry I can't hel =3D p it! I got my copy of this book from a discount bookstore just round the corner... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2004 8:02 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: T. Horlers book on AH and midget Cap'n I think the reason your prices are cheaper than ours, certainly at the moment is the USD to GBP exchange rate, which is an astronomic 1 GBP to 1.83 USD at the moment, which is the highest rate its been for years. The other reason is that our cost of living is astronomic compared to that in the US, I don't think a lot of Americans realise just how expensive it is here. I... MORE
Hi Rick Welcome to the list, and well done on your bravery on buying a load of bits that's meant to be a car! You don't say if you're in the US or UK (apologies to other list members in other countries) but the majority of list members are from one or other of these two countries. I mainly use Moss (www.moss-europe.com) for the simple reason they pretty much have any part you may want under the same roof. I wouldn't say they were the best (and other list members have their own favourites) but I've found them to... MORE
Rob Apology not necessary, your input is always valued. I already have a pair of Sony speakers I'm going to put into mine, which I bought to go in my previous everyday car, which I subsequently changed (an offer came up I coudn't refuse!) to a much newer car, before I had a chance to install them, the newer car has a pretty decent stereo in it, so I decided to put them into the Midget when it was done. I also have a radio console that I'll probably finish in the trim material, another reason for doign the... MORE
Greetings - I recently have become the proud owner of a pile of parts that I'm told when assembled is a 75 MG Midget, the previous owner was planning on restoring the car but never got past the dismantling portion of the restoration. I am in the gathering information stage of the project, hope to have the car home in the garage in the next couple of weeks. I was hoping anyone out there would give me any parts suppliers that they would recommend? Also was looking for recommendations on any reference repair manuals anyone on the list has... MORE
Greatings - I've recently become the proud owner of a pile of parts that when assembled I'm told will be a 75 MG Midget. Previous owner disassembled the car for restoration, but never got to it. Been a long time since I've been active in the MG scene, restored a 69 MGB with my father when I was a teenager back in the early 80's. Wanted some feedback from fellow Midget owners, I'm gathering info and catalogs for all the bits I'll want to be ordering and wanted any comments on parts suppliers that anyone favors along with any... MORE
Heh, heh... I agree with you, Roger Stinson. It is fun and even more so when you have a guy who tells you from experience what will work...and why. Well worth the purchase price of the book for sure.. no doubt about it! Saves all the guesswork which translates into $$$$$ not to mention personal satisfaction in a "job well done". Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 29014... MORE
these are like the ones in the B & W photo of the interior of a MK lll Midgeton page 99 of Clausager's book. Mine is a '71 Sprite so I know they don't "belong" - but they look nice Guy "Guy Weller" 28998... MORE
Nigel, The MGOC ones are quite well sealed at the back. The coloured vinyl front side is seam welded to a semi-transparent plastic sheet which covers the back of the hardboard. Only problem is that you then have to puncture this backing sheet where you fit the fastening clips. Even so, I think it does serve to keep moisture out. On mine, I also made up plastic sheets to cover all the door apertures first. I used some of that "fablon" sticky-backed plastic sold for covering books etc. I am not sure about the grain pattern. It seems to... MORE
When I re-assembled mine I had a choice of three types. I wasn't sure which were the "correct" ones (that is in a Nigelistic sence of the word) but used the ones I like best. They are all chrome drop handles which I suspect come from an earlier model but they do look good. That left me with 2 pairs of those horrinble moulded plastic things that go on the later rubber bumper cars, plus a pair of the black plastic ones with chromed pivots like yours. I don't know where they all came from as a good deal... MORE
When I re-assembled mine I had a choice of three types. I wasn't sure which were the "correct" ones (that is in a Nigelistic sence of the word) but used the ones I like best. They are all chrome drop handles which I suspect come from an earlier model but they do look good. That left me with 2 pairs of those horrinble moulded plastic things that go on the later rubber bumper cars, plus a pair of the black plastic ones with chromed pivots like yours. I don't know where they all came from as a good deal... MORE
When I re-assembled mine I had a choice of three types. I wasn't sure which were the "correct" ones (that is in a Nigelistic sence of the word) but used the ones I like best. They are all chrome drop handles which I suspect come from an earlier model but they do look good. That left me with 2 pairs of those horrinble moulded plastic things that go on the later rubber bumper cars, plus a pair of the black plastic ones with chromed pivots like yours. I don't know where they all came from as a good deal... MORE
I was thinking in terms of the dyno for correct needle selection, and correct setting of the distributor. Although not totally ignorant, I do not have the experience to set up either properly myself. (there goes the perfectionist again!) I also liked the sound of those rimflo valves, which, together with a few simple head mods, can bring even more of the 'fun factor'. Reading that book has suddenly given me a far greater understanding of why what I discovered over the years was working, actually works. Not only that, I can see how to improve on it. The... MORE
The drop handles with chrome ends were on the 68 and early 69 Spridgets. Nice, yes? They later went to cheap plastic handles. "Don May" 28951... MORE
Don, I love your project and I like the idea of saving all the bits for the future. On vinyl spray, I have used it for many years off and on. It works very well and lasts quite well also. If it starts to crack or wear thin, it is easy to spray a little touch up. My only advice is to clean off area to be sprayed really well. I used lacquer thinner as I recall, but put it on a rag first and then light wipe to cut any grease or oil film. The vinyl stuck very... MORE
Hi guys, Have a few photos to share of the bugeye bonnet on my 72rwa. It is a work in progress, primer gray to sections as I get an ideas of what the best look is. As you may see still have various holes to fill . . . And much smoothing to do on the bonnet. Also is a photo of the door modification where I removed the wind up windows (doors from 69 parts car) cut the inside door metal work and also used the panels out of my 69 parts car to trim it out giving... MORE
I'll leet Nigel answer this one Cap'n but .... If you are talking about the plate I think you are, then according to what I have seen, and backed up by Horler, the plate was rectangular on all cars up to the 1275, at which point it became oval. I am sure that I will now be corrected as I am probably wrong! On another subject, I took the Cap'n's advice and bought the book on engines by Vizard. A fascinating read. I will be undertaking some of those mods. My aim is to look original on the outside... MORE
Hi, Roger.. We do have a lister who has done the Vizard carb (and I believe intake manifold) mods to the stock 1.25SU's. I hope we hear from him. Supposedly with these street mods, the 1.25 set-up will match the flow rate of a stock pair of 1.5's. The foregoing notwithstanding, Vizard improvements are flow bench tested/verified. Today, David is semi- retired working on "improving" American V-8's!! (and did objective testing as well on Oil Extreme...like Grassroots, good results!:). Following Vizard's engine building advice (though substituting a 45DCOE with 38mm throats) I spec'd. a "fast road" 1340 for my... MORE
When I did my car I cleaned back to bare metal and welded the necessary areas in turn. I primed each area as I completed it to keep rust from forming, particularly within the seams. I also used that weldable zinc primer on all lap welded seams. As the whole process was done over an extended period it ended up as a real patchwork of primers, applied at different times, under different conditions (temperature / humidity) and I wasn't very confident of how good the adhesion of the primer was as a basis for finish coats. I then grit... MORE
Hi Everyone I am trying to identify some type of top/cover assembly that a friend has inherited. Possibly someone in the UK can help. A description: It is a vinyl peice aprox. 3'x4' with reinforcment rods under a headliner material attached. It comes with chromed finishing parts for all sides. It also has a piece of curved tinted plexiglass with mounting pins on each end for the front/rear 3' section. Sort of looks like a large sunvisor. The vinyl is flat, no sides or back window section. The Only clue I have is it is made by Slide Away... MORE
Duncan How did it go with sandblasting the engine bay on your car? What media did you use? I am getting ready to undertake the same job. I was also going to use the blaster on the outside of the panels, doors, wings, etc but I was thinking of using plastic beads for that. Have/can you use them in the pressureized sand blaster? Any info is welcome Thanks Mike mk2sprite@... 28817... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Friday, January 30, 2004 5:34 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Re: Paint Advice Duncan I'm not familiar with the base coat/clear coat system, although the last time I ordered some cellulose gloss from my paint factor, they did ask if that was what I wanted, as thats the alternative to the 'all-in-one' system that I'm most familiar with and use. The all-in-one system contains the pigment and the gloss, and the high shine is slowly built up by successive coats, flatting back inbetween. To achieve the very high shine, you let the paint... MORE
