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Don, I've seen that stuff on the shelf before but have been skeptical about wotking with it. When it hardens, is the surface dry or a little tacky like the stuff you mix with a catalyst? Does it load up your sandpaper? BTW, you shoud only use the bondo to fill in or contour where you can't get the metal straight. I realize in you case THERE MAY NOT BE ANY METAL where you are applying it...LOL You should finish the last coats in Metalglaze, not bondo. It's a finer compound and sands really smooth without any air pockets.... MORE
I am faced with having to replace or repair the ignition switch on my '78 Midget. I intend to pull the assembly off the steering column and either bring it to a locksmith to replace the cylinder, or have Moss send me a new assembly for $159 (yuck). In any event, Haynes (p226) says that step 1 is removing the steering column entirely. Is this really necessary? I see that with the everything else in place, to remove just the cowling, it would have to be bent into a shape that it may not want to go into. Has... MORE
...might be on subject...but not 'specific' to the conversation.... I've been studying (extensively) the various emissions re-breather systems used on the various years and models of LBC's. Why? Trying to come up with a system that won't dump oil all over the back of the intake valves. Any of you that have ever pulled a head off an engine that has had a bit of blow-by due to worn rings, knows what I mean. The vapors (due to crankcase pressure) being discussed here, dump all that oil into the intake and end up burning onto, and crudding up the... MORE
Most of this stuff is ferrous so a magnet on a stick (essenttial workshop tool) will pick it out too. "Jeremy Cogman" 24804... MORE
its really very easy,..at least it was for me!..i passed on the expensive moss pre-made channel and took don mays as always brilliant advice and used 3-m (i belive) 3/4' inch window channel "felt" (is this right don?) i picked up at the local hardware.. i used my mercedes convertible top tool (but any soft edge tool..or even a butter knife will do) to push it in the channels,..then pop the windows back in,..that can be a bit tricky,.i was afraid of cracking the side curtains,..but they went in with a litttle fiddling. i then used a little silicone/or... MORE
I remember seeing something in one of my books about this bonnet (hood) but I can't for the life of me find it now. I think it may be in the Chris =3D=0D Harvey book on Sprites and Midgets which I've lent to someone. Actually that 'someone' was a sprite racing driver in the 60's who happens =3D=0D to be the last owner of a special coup=E9 Sprite featured in that book and in Mo=3D=0D re Healey's - Frogeye Sprites and Midgets by Donald Healey, number plate 1411 =3D=0D WD an ex-Stirling Moss works car! Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 24747... MORE
Are you looking for just the electrical switch and wiring harness portion of the switch? I'm assuming your 'double-d' hole has rounded out on you or the wiring is mangled? I have a NOS elec switch with harness as spare here. I had one 'mechanically fail on me (plastic part messed up and metal pin wouldn't turn it) so when I found a new one I bought 2! Paul Tegler ptegler@... www.teglerizer.com "ptegler@cablespeed" 24697... MORE
As a further follow up on this posting, I took a few minutes to study the portion of the wiring harness that plugs into the switch. There has evidently been a dead short in the switch as the wires have melted together and I'm sure they are touching at some point. Again, I think the copper contact inside the plastic plug that goes into the switch assembly has shorted out and the switch problem is there. Neil "Neil Hernan" 24692... MORE
Hello to All I finally got some time to work on the MG switch. Following the ideas/instructions from previous posts, I got the electrical plug out of the ignition switch. The metal portion of the switch assembly that wraps around the steering column now seems to work OK. At least I can remove the key. I then took the electrical plug apart. There are a couple of copper contacts, springs and steel balls. My questions is this, is the spring built into the metal switch assembly or the plastic electrical plug that fits into the switch assembly? I did... MORE
It's a 65 midget. I'm not sure where the horn switch is. I have a book but it's not very helpful. "Virginia" 24678... MORE
Jeeze! What a day, eh?! :( First you lose the water you need, than you get a load of it in the wrong places.... this does bite the big one. It's a matter of wait and see, Brad. The damage (if any) often does not show up immediately, but downline a couple of thousand miles or so. You can get a head start on this though, by taking a compression and leak-down ASAP and noting the figures...save 'em. Take another "set" a thousand miles or so down the road and compare. If they are basically the same, you most... MORE
Brad, A couple things. Hopefully you have dodged a bullet. I have heard stories of A-series engine overheated to the point of seizing up but running again once cooled down. I'm not saying that no damage occurs, but while not good, not necessarily fatal either. I would keep an eye on your oil because symptoms could be delayed. A weakened head gasket or crack around a valve could develop problems later. Other things I've seen as evidence of overheating are damage to pistons and rings from the swelling. Pistons will show significant scuffing on the skirts where they hit... MORE
Don and all, This may be a good time to ask about a good way to re-do the rear end of my 75. I have taken off the rubber bumpers (making sign against evil as I type this) and have a good idea of how I want the front end to look. The back however is tough. The RB cars have the area below the tailights flatted off with quarter and rear sheet metal folded over and welded. Not real attractive. My only thought at this point is to fabricate this section in line with the older cars. Has... MORE
I can't answer that because if a date was printed, the first two pages of the book are missing. Someone else that has a completely intact one could perhaps answer this. I know David Ramsey has one, because he sent me copies of them, but I don't know where they are now. Anyone else? Gerard "gerardchateau" 24631... MORE
Oh yes I have! I'm Thinking of taking a little further training, and then starting a new career as a contortionist! It makes it a lot easier to lift around without the engine and transmission and the back axle and the ... Well just as a bodyshell really! R. "Roger Stinson" 24618... MORE
Brad, I think this is debatable. I have and original hardcover BMC Service Workshop Manual, part# AKD4884. Cover and binding ar labeled . Austin Healey SPRITE Mark I Workshop Manual BMC(logo) Service Many, many pages are footnoted the same way "Austin-Healey Sprite MK1" Gerard "gerardchateau" 24611... MORE
Greetings, As fall draws closer, I have started to think about starting the body work on my Midget. I'm leaning toward using a chemical stripper (this is an assembled daily driver). I will be doing one section at a time. My plan was to strip the finish to metal. Apply etching primer and a sealing primer. Then later in the winter (after the entire car finish has been stripped) start on the body work. Here is my question: Has anyone had any experiences with enviro friendly paint stripper like: http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy01.asp?T1=10410&Dep_Key1=Paint (Eastwood DeKote stripper) Thanks in advance for any feedback... MORE
Kelly Not much to go on here! If I were in your shoes, I'd reject it out of hand and say nope, I wan't the original one - don't just accept what 'they want to give you'. The original's were tubular shaped, and came in two flavours a permanent bolt on one and a clamp on one, both made from tubular material, one I think is available in stainless steel, and one in chrome. If you really have problems locating one, or identifying your original one, I could scan my Moss brochure and show you the different types. Nigel... MORE
Oh, this we agree totally. I would like a garage, even a single one. My workshop is a small pre fabricated wood garage that was erected in 1937 according to the date and name on the concrete slab and is only large enough for my work bench and tools. It was only meant to hold a thirties size car and nothing else. As in my photos I have to work out under the tree or on a gravel driveway. A shade tree, fair weather mechanic. Don "Don May" 24619... MORE
Can anybody help? My 1967 BRG Midget has been off the road for 10 years now and I'm desperate to drive it again but don't have the ability, space or time to finish the restoration. The bare metal re-spray was done 9 years ago and the re-build is partly complete. I need someone to finish it off and am happy to pay sensible commercial rates to get it done but have no idea where to go for help. I live in North East Hampshire but am happy to take the car and parts anywhere within a reasonable distance. Can... MORE
Welcome, Sam... Suggest you follow DLancer's advice and be prepared to do both rear brakes as well (unless the other side is basically new) as that oil usually renders that particular side useless in this respect.... Afraid I do not have the parts you seek, though I do already have a copy of Blaggot's fine book, thank you! As far as additives go, don't exactly know what motivates you in this, Sam. Usually, a quality brand is all that is required along with oil/filter changes every 3K or so. It is the additive package which is usually the difference... MORE
Hello, i'm new to the group and I am looking for just a few bits,..mostly a period radio, a stock muffler, and (I realize its a stretch and yes, I know I can get one on e-bay or through the standard mail order companies, but it never hurts to ask) a black carpet kit for my 1962 midget. I also have a spare copy of John Blaggots book "Mighty Midgets and special sprites"...its very nice book and its in perfect condition. aaand while I have your attention, I have oil running out my back left hand side rear wheel... MORE
I trust all the purists out there have their nitro glycerin pill handy. A group member observed upon seeing my bugeye bonnet photo that I have a lot of new metal to replace with new and weld in place of the rusted metal on the edges of the bonnet . . . I am thrilled that my MIG welding skills have progressed to a point that I tack welded the side panels back on after having removed them to work the fenders back to a fair semblance of their original state . . . weld sheet metal . .... MORE
Indeed so . . . California live oaks grow rapidly, this one has doubled in the past ten years and now is about 50 feet across. I have little choice but to be a shade tree mechanic as there are two more on the lot, 45' x 150'. Good thing the house is tiny. They drop leaves year around and now acorns shells come raining down as the squirrels toss them totally unconcerned for my safety. The trees mock me as they are a "protected species" and know I can do nothing except thin the branches and cut off... MORE
Nigel, is the source of your info Terry Horlers 'Original Sprite and Midget' (Must get that book) because according to production records the first Mk3 Midget was produce in October '66, the relevant numbers being G-AN4/52390 (MG) and H-AN9/64756 (A/H) Like all this information, I may have it wrong, but I believe it to be correct. As a point of interest, my own Mk2 was G-AN5231*, and so was produced just before change over. Purchased at the beginning of October '66. Still have the original receipt, cheque etc etc. It was sold to me by a man by the... MORE
