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yes, it's not too difficult a job; it's even possible to do the valve stem seals (is that what you mean?) with the head still on, though paradoxically it's probably trickier to do that way. There are no particular pitfalls I can think of, just make sure the engine's cold before you loosen anything, get a workshop manual for torqueing the nuts up in the right order, oh, and don't forget to refit the little bypass hose between the head and water pump *before* you screw the head down. Regards David "David Jacobs" 27776... MORE
Cost, Rdgard??? Certainly, you jest. How about "ZIP"...nothing!! Though it could have been $30.00. They tell you when you sign up that cancellation instructions are given in their initial email which contains the link that enables you to watch the 42 minute movie clip. Now, remember, you only have 30 "free" minutes after you initially sign up and they send you their initial responding email. Now, no one is going to mind a $30 charge for watching Paris in a "quality" movie clip of Paris in action. I mean she's gorgeous and $30 is reasonable for 42 minutes of... MORE
Trevor- Your "random" thoughts are really good. YOU GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You got me to thinking about the oil filter bracket on the side of the motor. I used new bolts. I pulled the bracket off this morning and the VERY TIP of one bolt showed contact. I knew immediately I had found it. So your thought about "oil" together with the other guys that kept telling me it was a "too big bolt in too small hole" issue solved it. MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!! Now the final problem. The bolt that showed the hit was the rearmost bolt. If you remember,... MORE
Paul, Congrats. It was not a mistake, it was just one of those things that happen and now about 500 of us listers will think about the length of bolts that go into lumps where things are spinning. It was good for all of us. Especially you because it was an easy fix. I don't think you have to worry about any damage. I would just change the oil and filter after perhaps 30 minutes of running just to make sure any metal chips are out of the system. Keep us up on how it starts and runs. Cheers,... MORE
Hi Ed- Thanks. While the tool looks rather expensive, my car is worth it so I'm going to put one together! The price of twine is crazy. Seriously, great idea. Thanks for the post. Paul "dfwip" 27720... MORE
"Sounds like you put a long bolt where a short one should go" Boy...this just lit up a bulb. There are two short screws behind the crankshaft timing chain pulley on the front face of the block. If one of thesse screws is a tad too long or is not fully home into the block, it will foul the crankshaft pulley. This may or may not be the source of the problem but just remembered this so thought I would "put it out there" for consideration. Hope you find the culprit, hope it's something simple and easily fixed, and... MORE
Paul, I have been reading this thread with interest. A lot of interesting ideas. Let me think a moment and apply my simple Polish logic. Before you go into motor....... you have marked crank pulley and it always stops in the same place. If you back it up, it stops a few degrees from the same place always? right? Then take it until it stops and check into plug holes and find if any pistons are at or very near TDC. If they are, there could be something in the cylinder that is hitting the piston. If non of... MORE
Paul: Before trying the dist. out job, see My Fav tool under Articles on my site!!! Ed www.justbrits.com "justbrits" 27715... MORE
I can't imagine anyone competent doing it incorrectly but I would suggest that you take off the front timing cover and make sure that the valves are correctly timed. It sounds very much like the pistons are striking something solid (a valve?) If you carry on rotating the engine given valve mistiming, it can be a bit expensive bending the valves etc. Aside from the con-rod being in the wrong way around, (although I think that the symptoms would be different for that - the interference would be much sooner during the revolution) there is not much else that... MORE
Thanks Alan And thank you Robert B. Houston and Rex Urban for your replies. I will admit. My knowledge of 60s British cars is somewhat limited. I mainly mess with 80s-90s RWD Imports like the MR2, Supra, 240SX, 300ZX, etc.. I dont know why I didnt see that the Silver Sprite was a Frogeye being that the rear end is the only part I like on the Frogeye. I think I need glasses. Anyway... Is it that hard to take the rear panels of a Frogeye and install them on a Spridget? Is it a mater of traditionally replacing... MORE
Gents, If I may contribute. Have had my engine (1500) in and out several times both with and without gearbox attached. Used the same set up each time. My garage has a steel "I" beam across the top to support the story above. I drilled a hole and mounted a heavy "eye" bolt to the beam. Attached a "come-along" and chain to the engine lift points and ripped it right out. The chain is nice as one can achieve any angle of attack by where the come along is attached to the engine chain. I don't believe a steel... MORE
My edition of David Vizard's book basically mentions the 12G206 head but goes on to ignore it as it is now very rare, even compared to the 12G295 which is pretty scarce now. The latter casting is the one he describes in detail. So I suppose the answer to Martin's question is "yes, it is worth the money, if you are selling one; no, it isn't if you are buying one!" Regards David "David Jacobs" 27650... MORE
Alan *chuckle* I think you're going to have to do the same as me, hire an engine hoist and put it in that way, I can't see any other way of doing it. Are you rebuilding your engine yourself Alan ? Nigel amukdigiphoto@... 27640... MORE
I have listened to all the talk of hoisting the engine out of the car using the ceiling joists in the garage. The typical 2x4 ceiling joist on 24" centers gives a 10 pounds per square foot live load and 5 pound per square foot dead load at a max span of 9' 10" for Southern Pine #2. If you have Eastern or Western SPF it is less. The typical garage is wider than 9' 10" so you are working with much less strength if you have a conventionally framed garage. Engineered wood trusses may be damaged doing this... MORE
From: amukdigiphoto@... [mailto: amukdigiphoto@... ] Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 9:23 AM To: midgetsprite@yahoogroups.com Subject: [midgetsprite] Subject: RE: Re: Engine removal Alan *chuckle* I think you're going to have to do the same as me, hire an engine hoist and put it in that way, I can't see any other way of doing it. Are you rebuilding your engine yourself Alan ? Nigel "Duncan Sinclair" 27641... MORE
OK guys need some feed back on the 12G206 casting cylinder head, is it really worth the money for the 948? Per David Vizard it is touted as the best one for BMC A series engines up to 1000 cc has anyone used one and is it worth the price? Marty Cooper Martin Cooper 27630... MORE
One for Capn Bob Passengers on a small commuter plane are waiting for the flight to leave. They're getting a little impatient, but the airport staff assures them that the pilots will be there soon, and the flight can take off. The entrance opens, and two men dressed in Pilots' uniforms walk up the aisle. Both are wearing dark glasses, one is using a guide dog, and the other is tapping his way up the aisle with a cane. Nervous laughter spreads through the cabin but the men enter the cockpit, the door closes, and the engines start up.... MORE
Duncan The biggest problem to removing the engine detached from the gearbox (I've decided to stick to British names for car components, If no-one understands me - tough!) is removing the gearbox bolts attaching it to the engine. It's hard enough to remove these with the engine and gearbox out of the car, let alone trying to do it within the confines of an engine bay! It's awkward taking it out with gearbox attached, specially if your front valance and rad are still in position (mine were removed) as it has to come out at a very steep angle... MORE
Duncan Well if I can take mine out complete with transmission with a trolley jack, bunch of bricks and a length of wood, I'm sure you can get your's out with a proper hoist! Personally I think its best to take it out complete with (gearbox) transmission, saves messing about with trying to get the awkward gearbox bolts undone with it still in position. Mine came out fairly easily once the bolts were all removed from the transmission tunnel. Nigel "amukdigiphoto" 27564... MORE
when you pull just the engine by itself, you have to lift it slightly before you can move it forwards, so that the front pulley clears the cross member (assuming you have an A series engined car, not a 1500 - the cross member is different) However, the top of the gearbox comes up against the heater ducting below the battery tray, so you have to lift a bit and pull a bit repeatedly and gradually work the thing past all the obstructions. If you pull the engine and 'box together, it's slightly easier from this respect, but you... MORE
Hi all, I am about to pull out my engine and tranny with a hoist and I know that I can either pull them together as one unit or separately. Any advice on the pros and cons of either method would be appreciated. Thanks Duncan "Duncan Sinclair" 27559... MORE
Thanks, David.... I know nothing about the later spring- loaded carbs considering I never used them. Never like the idea of the needle running up against the jet...something about this that goes "against the grain" so to speak, despite the fact they meter fuel more precisely (or so I read). But, if you couldn't measure the wear at 106K, I wonder why they bother talking about it in books? Very strange 'cause that's pretty damn miniscule wear they're talkin' about. :) The latest Spridget I ever owned was a '74 who's engine came with emissions carbs but "fixed" needles.... MORE
Rich... "Spring-loaded"? Forget about the centering and "center" on replacing now and then, 'cause these don't center at all. They instead wear against one another and I forget which metal is softer and which wears first...but in time, they both wear. I assume playing with the timing to adjust idle is a temporary fix? Sure. Anyway, you've found part of the problem. Frank C.'s post should give you a little more food for thought! :) Cap'n. Bob '60 :{) PilotRob@... 27547... MORE
Hi Rich... Bob Gardner and Jim Curtice give sound advice in your case however, let's look a little deeper into Jim's advice, after checking the "easier" Bob's advice first, 'cause if he's correct and your throttle cable is hanging up in it's fitting in the heat shield, then the problem is "sol-ved" and we need look no further (maybe!:). The chokes on SU's are mechanical. Gum is not usually strong enough to overpower the mechanical advantage of a cable operated choke, assuming the cable isn't way out of shape, though of course anything is possible. If the butterflies are... MORE
Roger Yes I have 2kw fan heater in the garage I mostly use for drying the car off after rubbing it down, although I don't like using it because it just stirs dust into the air, which then conveniently lands on my fresh paint! Yes it should look good, specially considering its had a bare metal respray, which seriously added to the amount of work involved! Roger, the prep took forever, seriously its taken me months to get the bodywork to the stage of even being ready for topcoat. People just don't have a clue how much work is... MORE
